Good way to start the week with those beautiful photos. Include your phone when you PM this evening.
Serious Repair Question
- Thread starter Dutchman
- Start date
I had a 25.5 and I now have a H34 which is similarly constructed. That is serious. The Hunters are lightly built but the they should be able to take a heavy day of fun sailing. I suspect you have a combination of compression post/bulkhead failure that is causing the load from the rig to transfer to the hull flexing it beyond its capacity. Thus the cracks right at the points of highest stress. So, take off the mast, check the compression post for rot and /or deformation. Check the bulkhead that the stays are anchor to for rot and/or damage. Replace those items if you find anything. The 25.5 has a skeleton supporting a lightly built hull unlike most boats that have a thicker, more rigid hull. Check the main structural elements of the skeleton, repair the fiberglass and put the boat back together. Tune the rigging and go sailing. I would do it myself because I bet the cost would be way too much.
I was sent a private message and that is already in the works. Thank you for backing up this information to include rot as you mentioned.
Have you noticed issues with the rigging not staying tight? That is a sign of a compression post issue?
Thanks for the input. At the dock with no sails set, the boat is solid. No soft spots and the rigging is true and straight. Also judging by the damage and any visible staining, the issue seems to be confined to the port side plate.
Dutchman,
I'd wager that the crack on the inside has nothing to do with the crack on the outside. The inside appears to be in the molded edge of the cabin liner which is only a "trim valance" feature to hide un-finished areas. If by your inspection you agree this to be true, you could cut off the valance section at the chain plate to provide more inspection access to see what the condition is of structure above it.
2nd, The crack on the outside is likely only in the gelcoat caused by flexing at that area. You could carefully grind or gouge out a small section of it and see if the crack goes into the laminate. If it goes deeper than the chopped strand outer layer then it will need to be repaired. Either way the surface gel coat crack can be opened by grinding out a broader channel and refilling with gel coat and sanding and polishing smooth.
Your real problem is that leaking chain plate which is rotting your woodwork and corroding your metals. That plate is pitted on the visible side and surely looks worse on the opposite side. Repair your woodwork as needed, replace the chain plates and re-bed.
Dennis
I'd wager that the crack on the inside has nothing to do with the crack on the outside. The inside appears to be in the molded edge of the cabin liner which is only a "trim valance" feature to hide un-finished areas. If by your inspection you agree this to be true, you could cut off the valance section at the chain plate to provide more inspection access to see what the condition is of structure above it.
2nd, The crack on the outside is likely only in the gelcoat caused by flexing at that area. You could carefully grind or gouge out a small section of it and see if the crack goes into the laminate. If it goes deeper than the chopped strand outer layer then it will need to be repaired. Either way the surface gel coat crack can be opened by grinding out a broader channel and refilling with gel coat and sanding and polishing smooth.
Your real problem is that leaking chain plate which is rotting your woodwork and corroding your metals. That plate is pitted on the visible side and surely looks worse on the opposite side. Repair your woodwork as needed, replace the chain plates and re-bed.
Dennis
Dennis,
what makes me wonder is the noted gel coat on top of the nut inside and possible movement of the chain plate noting the difference of color on the wood as if it had moved. That chain plate needs to be insepected at the least.
what makes me wonder is the noted gel coat on top of the nut inside and possible movement of the chain plate noting the difference of color on the wood as if it had moved. That chain plate needs to be insepected at the least.
Dave,
Its hard to tell if that's gel coat or sealant. It does look like gel coat and it would be no surprise as it looks like someone tried to seal the whole assy. on top with gel coat. I had some of that on my 23.5 when I bought it; that is. gel coat covering cracks in laminate which had not been repaired.
In any case I think Dutchman's problem is probably a lack of sealant and of course since there has been water intrusion, rotted deck core could also be an issue which will require repair.
Dennis
Its hard to tell if that's gel coat or sealant. It does look like gel coat and it would be no surprise as it looks like someone tried to seal the whole assy. on top with gel coat. I had some of that on my 23.5 when I bought it; that is. gel coat covering cracks in laminate which had not been repaired.
In any case I think Dutchman's problem is probably a lack of sealant and of course since there has been water intrusion, rotted deck core could also be an issue which will require repair.
Dennis
Until the mast is either secured or down with the bolts/chain plate removed, it would be hard to suggest what to do. It is an investigation and until you know the full extent, then and only then I can comment. If you do look again at the top edge of the nut in the one photo, it is gel coat that was broken off to suggest the movement. If all ok then it will be a simple fix but first what does the bulkhead look like with the chain plate inside removed.
I'm heading out later this week with a second hand in tow to take a good look under the block and chain plate. The good news from a quick look the other day is that the starboard side and compression post are solid with absolutely no signs of water damage or movement. Also what looked like a cracked on the plate outside on the deck was extra silicone on the plate. The cracks outside on the deck are minute and do not penetrate the gelcoat. The plate on the port has moved but it is still solid as far as the deck is concerned. I'll update once I get a look under the bolts. Thanks again
So, here's a little update. I finally got a chance to take an in depth look at the chain plate and bulkhead. As suspected previous water damage had done localized damage around the plate and bulkhead. Luckily it looks to be very localized and the remaining bulkhead is as solid as the day it was installed.
I decided to go ahead and place a bandage on the situation. I removed the damaged wood and replaced with oak and epoxy the anchored it with solid wood bracing bolted to the bulkhead which I will eventually have to replace unless anyone has a better idea.
I reseated the chain plate and sealed it on the deck which shows no sign of damage after the plate moved.
It ain't pretty but it's functional for now.
Any thoughts / suggestions going forward ?????
I decided to go ahead and place a bandage on the situation. I removed the damaged wood and replaced with oak and epoxy the anchored it with solid wood bracing bolted to the bulkhead which I will eventually have to replace unless anyone has a better idea.
I reseated the chain plate and sealed it on the deck which shows no sign of damage after the plate moved.
It ain't pretty but it's functional for now.
Any thoughts / suggestions going forward ?????
Attachments
temporary repairs but suggest strongly replacing that bulkhead at your earliest convienence and try not to sail in strong airs either until the repair is made.
Hi Dutchman. I hope you have gotten your bulkhead replaced and are back on the water. I have been doing home repairs all my life. If one thing will destroy the residence, it is a water leak. In one of your photos it reveals a LOT of damage to the top of the vanity/lavatory in the head (I own this same model). That is a lot of leakage over an extended period of time. I hope you have gotten it repaired and keeping the devil (water) out is now your major concern to prevent a recurrance. Bedding the cover to the chainplates with a good marine sealant is key to prevention. Doing it again, about every two years is also necessary. The cover is that little plate with the four phillips screws where the chainplate goes thruhull. Best wishes. Carl
It would appear that 'shim' was standard issue from the manufacturer. It looks exactly the same on mine. Both port and starboard chainplates.
It's winter now. In the late fall I bought a Hunter 25.5 with similar chainplate and bulkhead/vanity rot issues. Are there pictures from the repair regarding the above thread? That would be super helpful. There are multiple spider cracks around my starboard chainplate that I plan to fix as soon as the weather warms up, but I'm wondering about the order of repairs. Fiberglass first, then bulkhead?
i looked at a 25.5 last year with the same issues, to the point that 1x4 was sitting in hole in the rotten plywood and shrouds were slack. These were slide in bulkheads. look for screws, jack up cabin roof, remove compression post and slide out the bulkeads to use as a pattern for the new ones. obviously the chainplates amd shrouds need removed so either drop the mast or sister the shrouds with halyards and do one side at a time.
i passed on the one I looked at as the deck was also soft around the mast step. In hindsight, not a huge problem, but more than I felt like dealing with last spring.