A story of the engine that could.... Then didn't…NOW DOES

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
There are many options. Difficulty is filtering the marketing from the performance. Looked also at the Tides Marine propeller shaft seals. Different method of seal technology. The improvement in the bellows is what nudged me to the PYI product. Time will tell if it was wise or foolish.
 
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Jan 4, 2006
6,939
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Based on the history I’ve learned about the boat I’m inclined to date the shaft as 1973.
Chalk up the corrosion to lower corrosion resistant metallurgy back then.
Makes we wonder how boaters with shafts of that vintage are fairing today ?

"Aghr matey, tighten up the packing nut another turn and she'll be fine."
 
Apr 5, 2009
2,942
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
Yes. We are exploring the idea. Especially now that the PSS dripless has a reinforced silicone bellows.
Interesting. I had not seen that new bellows. How do they address the issue of oxygen starvation corrosion? Is that the intent of the ceramic option?
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
How do they address the issue of oxygen starvation corrosion?
The new units have a fitting on the collar to inject water into the unit and the shaft log. It is intended for boats that move at higher speeds. I intend to connect a raw water hose line from my heat exchanger

Makes we wonder how boaters with shafts of that vintage are fairing today ?
I think you ask a great question. It is one that should be on the mind of all owners with a mature boat. Inspection is the key to protecting your boat from age related degeneration.
10 year warranty.
However inspect bellows annually.
PYI offers a 3year limited warranty to the original purchaser. There advice is to change the bellows at 8-10 years.

Annual inspection is sound advice.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
When faced with the decision about the corroded shaft, I asked my sailing buddy @LeslieTroyer what he thought. I maybe paraphrasing “Rip it out, John.“ It’s 45plus years old.

Being ever concerned about doing more damage than needed, I thought we should try to cut the shaft. Les volunteered a saws all but I grabbed it from his hands. I remembered the gleam in his smile when we were discussing cutting the bulkhead to remove the engine.
9D95BC3C-D16E-4A32-962E-388A0C6B9E12.jpeg


With the prop and zinc removed, the shaft slipped forward giving us access to slice away.

After attempting to cut the shaft and destroying a couple of metal cutting blades on the saws all we had barely made a dent In the shaft. Change of plans. We attacked the Flange Coupler. The bronze started to give up against our assault, but it too was enjoying devouring the teeth on the blades.

Enough of this. Lets use the grinder and a cutting wheel.
After I had arranged a board to lessen the sparks from starting a bilge fire, and managed to cut through about of third of the shaft, Les wanted a turn.
Here he is rotating the shaft to get some fresh meat to attack
03C6B44F-9F76-4235-A325-FB25319D41BC.jpeg

And then the sparks really begin to fly.
AF7BBD40-D2F6-475A-A0BE-94F385F25524.jpeg


In short order we had sliced the shaft into two pieces. This permitted removal of the shaft sliding it out and past the rudder. The Shaft log hose and stuffing box were easy to remove. My efforts were aided by the use of a hose puller.
1676232964572.jpeg
A great tool to loosen the vice like grip of a hose on the shaft log after being secured by hose clamps for who knows how many years. Should be in every boaters tool box.

The Prop Shop in Mukilteo WA is a great resource. Looking forward to getting my new shaft and coupling back fit and faced by next week.

Still need to pull the cutlass bearing. Not yet sure on how that will go. Already know that the locking Allen screw is toast. It will require attempts with an extractor, or drill and tap. Les suggested, Just cut it John.

On a good note, the sanding of the old bottom paint is finished. Next up are the blister repairs, some thickened epoxy, sanding fair, a coat of barrier coat, then the bottom paint.

Once the shaft is reinstalled, will be installing the engine. I saw the engine on Saturday. About 80% complete. Once assembly is complete, I hope next week we will be able to fire it up in the shop. Then the we will lower it into place and install the new wet exhaust system. The exhaust shop had welded up a prototype. Not sure I am convinced it is exactly what is needed. The concept is good, but I want to be sure water cannot get back into the exhaust Manifold. More on that next time.
 

RoyS

.
Jun 3, 2012
1,742
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
If you have space I suggest that you raise the engine exhaust port as high as possible. Ideally you want the cooling water to drain by gravity away from the engine. Many exhaust systems are built with the highest point at the stern and those permit the cooling water wash back and flood the engine. A good practice in any case is to race the engine for a second before shutting it off to blow the cooling water out of the exhaust plumbing.
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Wednesday, the Prop Shop came through. They gave me a call having completed the new shaft prep and fit/faced the Flange Coupler. I drove from Salem to Mukilteo arriving at the shop before they closed for the day. New shaft and hardware in the trunk I headed to the yard to check on progress of the bottom.

The work on the bottom is progressing. The blisters on the Starboard side have been ground, filled and sanded.
Blisters.jpg
They are awaiting a couple coats of barrier paint.

Next project. Extraction of the cutless bearing. My set up is different from the strut cutless's on so many Hunter's and Catalinas. It is a Stern tube mount. This means no cutless bearing remover. We have to resort to a more brutal method.

Cutlass 2.jpg

This cone of fiberglass holds a 5.5" long cutless bearing. The bearing is 2" OD and supports a 1.375" shaft, bearing ID . There were 2 set screws that could not to be simply extracted. One looked to be made of cold steel and corrosion dissolved, the other was stainless, with the allen key head destroyed. We were able to drill it out. This gave us the thread size and screw diameter.

We rebuilt the holes with JB Weld and tried to create threaded holes to use for the new set screws. The ones we removed were just in the fiberglass cone holding the cutlass bearing.

I'll be heading up to the boat later today to check on the repair and pick up the new cutless bearing (CB).

Removal of the CB was accomplished by using a sawsall and a 9" metal blade to slice through the CB rubber and brass shell. Once cut the shell can be folded inward reducing contact with the shaft log tube. I then used the old shaft from inside the boat to push out the CB. A few hefty wacks using the shaft like a slide hammer dislodged the CB

The projects are gradually being resolved. Now if the weather will just cooperate before the Marina Yard empties my pocketbook.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
You are painfully, likely to be successful.
Hello Below :banghead:

So said my fortune cookie.
 

JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Feb 14, 2014
7,708
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
The blisters on the Starboard side have been ground, filled and sanded.
Someone used mine as a Shot Gun shell pattern too.

ShotGunPractice.jpeg

Did not work so well on my Lead keel. Full of Lead already.:cowbell:

Jim...
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,179
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Wednesday, the Prop Shop came through. They gave me a call having completed the new shaft prep and fit/faced the Flange Coupler. I drove from Salem to Mukilteo arriving at the shop before they closed for the day. New shaft and hardware in the trunk I headed to the yard to check on progress of the bottom.

The work on the bottom is progressing. The blisters on the Starboard side have been ground, filled and sanded.
View attachment 213044
They are awaiting a couple coats of barrier paint.

Next project. Extraction of the cutless bearing. My set up is different from the strut cutless's on so many Hunter's and Catalinas. It is a Stern tube mount. This means no cutless bearing remover. We have to resort to a more brutal method.

View attachment 213046

This cone of fiberglass holds a 5.5" long cutless bearing. The bearing is 2" OD and supports a 1.375" shaft, bearing ID . There were 2 set screws that could not to be simply extracted. One looked to be made of cold steel and corrosion dissolved, the other was stainless, with the allen key head destroyed. We were able to drill it out. This gave us the thread size and screw diameter.

We rebuilt the holes with JB Weld and tried to create threaded holes to use for the new set screws. The ones we removed were just in the fiberglass cone holding the cutlass bearing.

I'll be heading up to the boat later today to check on the repair and pick up the new cutless bearing (CB).

Removal of the CB was accomplished by using a sawsall and a 9" metal blade to slice through the CB rubber and brass shell. Once cut the shell can be folded inward reducing contact with the shaft log tube. I then used the old shaft from inside the boat to push out the CB. A few hefty wacks using the shaft like a slide hammer dislodged the CB

The projects are gradually being resolved. Now if the weather will just cooperate before the Marina Yard empties my pocketbook.
She will be like a new boat when you are done John!

Greg
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
The mangled 5.5” cutless bearing was no match for a Harbor Freight $59 sawsall and 9” metal blade.
3309ADB3-C3C2-49E1-A21A-DFB5787B00F3.jpeg


A slice through rubber and metal and screwdriver tapped in to ease the brass from the shaft log. We then used the old shaft as a slide hammer and banged the CB loose and it slid out the shaft log.

It was definitely time for replacement. The pink patina and missing metal is an indication of corrosion activity at some point during its life.
389B3234-B159-49A3-A6E5-3D2616DA6455.jpeg DC25FFFC-FEB8-43E5-B513-931DC0DDE239.jpeg

External inspection did not indicate this deterioration. The shaft felt solid in the shaft log. No signs of lateral or vertical movement when testing the prop and shaft.
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I am back at the boat this week. After waiting out 2 snow storms... Nasty wet cold ice/rain for several weeks. I consumed the month of February with little to show. Today was 52 degrees and mostly sunny. The patches of the blisters has been completed. The have been filled, and sanded smooth. The paint guy was at the boat today prepping to have the braces reset so the paint can be applied in the next two days.
IMG_3683.jpeg IMG_3685.jpeg IMG_3686.jpeg

I spent part of the day with the mechanic. Addressing parts and resolving questions like: How does that fuel pump work? Have you seen the fuel line that connects the pump to the filter?

So many parts so many challenges.

The engine is begining to look more of what I remember.
The Transmission
IMG_3670.JPG

And the Engine
IMG_3671.JPG IMG_3672.JPG IMG_3673.JPG IMG_3674.JPG

Paint look pretty. Soon we will test run the engine in the shop.. Hoping no mystery results.
We arrive at a exhaust system structure we are going to try.

Setting a 2 week expectation. Getting excited.