A story of the engine that could.... Then didn't…NOW DOES

jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Yes with the boat out of the water it's like having her skirt up around her waist... All is exposed.

I was pleased with the look of the prop after being submerged since 2018. No obvious signs of corrosion of the bronze. No expensive prop paints. The marina pressure washed the boat and sprayed down the prop. Looking closely, It is time to change the zinc.
Before MAR 2018
1675701304681.jpeg
After Feb 2023
1675701124370.jpeg
 
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jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I was at the boat and captured a picture of the Tug that pulled me across the marina.
1675724758101.jpeg
 
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jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Sorry Richard. Did not mean to confuse. That zinc is about 4 months old.

The Prop was what I was talking about.
The prop was purchased in December of 2017. I installed it in March 2018. I consider paint and material like Speed Prop to protect it. After talking with the manufacturer he said, put it on your boat and run it. Have a diver clean it occasionally. It will give you good service with no fuss. So I did. I suspect I can give it a scrubbing and it will look nearly as pretty as the day I installed it.

I change zinc’s regularly in our briny water. Marina’s I expect to have stray current. The zinc is about normal for a 4-6 month period in our waters
 
Richard19068

Richard19068

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Jun 11, 2004
1,698
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
Oh. My mistake. I was wondering how it could have gone that long and still look so good. I guess I should have known that if it lasted that long there would be other trouble.

The prop looks great!

Forge on with the new engine installation!
 
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jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
The Story continues...

I was in the yard Thursday. Met Larry the Sanding Guy. He has been working on the boat bottom and has completed about 65% of the hull sanding. The blue bottom paint from 5 years ago is gone. Many of the finger print sized gel coat blisters have been exposed. I am using a patch it approach to dealing with the blisters. The bigger blisters will be ground to expose the glass mat used for the first layer. An epoxy filler is applied. Then 2 barrier coats and 2 coats of bottom paint.

While this is going on outside the hull, I am up inside preparing for the engine. My hopes were dashed after I got the stuffing box opened and stuffing removed. I was not experiencing any leaks, the box had been just warm to touch after the having used the boat, the shaft looked polished, so I was hopping I would not need to change the shaft.

Then I saw and felt it. Pit corrosion.
PropShaft.jpg


That and the shaft was worn under the stuffing. Stuffing grooves.

Two choices I now faced.
  1. Pack the stuffing in seal it up. Run it for a year and sell the boat.
  2. Remove the prop shaft, buy a new shaft and coupler. Have the two "fit and finished" at the prop shop. Extend the time in the yard another 10 days. Just another 1.5 Boat Bucks...
Do the right thing, my Mom always said.
 
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Alan Gomes

Alan Gomes

.
Nov 22, 2011
1,218
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
jssailem said:
Two choices I now faced.
  1. Pack the stuffing in seal it up. Run it for a year and sell the boat.
  2. Remove the prop shaft, buy a new shaft and coupler. Have the two "fit and finished" at the prop shop. Extend the time in the yard another 10 days. Just another 1.5 Boat Bucks...
Click to expand
Why does point 1 include selling the boat?
 
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Ralph Johnstone

Ralph Johnstone

.
Jan 4, 2006
6,939
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
jssailem said:
Then I saw and felt it. Pit corrosion.
Click to expand
Miserable rotten break :banghead:. This is something I have always marveled at, that I was not seeing crevice corrosion under my packing after a long winter's hibernation. Perhaps I have an exotic metallurgy protecting me.

1676055168073.png


I've got to ask ..................... have you ever used one of the graphite bearing packings in your stuffing box ? Any idea how long the corrosion's been going on ? The pitting looks pretty deep.
 
Hayden Watson

Hayden Watson

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Apr 5, 2009
2,942
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
Ralph Johnstone said:
Miserable rotten break :banghead:. This is something I have always marveled at, that I was not seeing crevice corrosion under my packing after a long winter's hibernation. Perhaps I have an exotic metallurgy protecting me.

View attachment 212905

I've got to ask ..................... have you ever used one of the graphite bearing packings in your stuffing box ? Any idea how long the corrosion's been going on ? The pitting looks pretty deep.
Click to expand
@jssailem I was going to ask the same question. I have heard of this type of corrosion with the graphite packing. I think Maine Sail did an article on it.
 
jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,051
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Last time the stuffing box was addressed was in 2015. I was new in the use of diesel auxiliary boats. Never had changed the packing while in the water. The stuffing box was dripping more than recommended. Tightening the nuts helped but did not stop the dripping with the engine off.

I purchased standard waxed flax of the proper size which was used. An experienced neighbor helped me. He said the shaft looked ok. I was not on the boat when work was done so do not know what was used before my service

What I pulled out looked like the stuffing I had purchased. Not graphite flax.

The stuffing box on my boat sits beneath the engine. The 4cyl Perkins 4.107 is attached to a BorgWarner V drive transmission. Access to the stuffing box is limited.

Based on the history I’ve learned about the boat I’m inclined to date the shaft as 1973. The portion of the shaft visible looked fine. Temperature monitoring of the shaft and stuffing box in operation ranged from 110 to 130 F.

With engine removal access allows full inspection.
BD9293A1-4CE9-45DE-A820-DB46DA42344E.jpeg 9565C194-8077-4452-99AE-BA70C0ECC6C7.jpeg

Here is a picture that drove the decision to replace the shaft.
396E909F-9AC1-484B-9EB7-9F08F8CCF33A.jpeg


One of those hidden from view conditions that can bring nightmare experiences.
 
Hollyberry

Hollyberry

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Sep 24, 2021
386
Beneteau 35s5 Telegraph hrbr Thetis Island
Given the V drive and poor access are you going to go with a dripless seal this time around?
 
Hayden Watson

Hayden Watson

.
Apr 5, 2009
2,942
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
Good choice. I used The Prop Shop in Mukilteo, and they did a nice job of the fit and face.
Are you going to stay with the packing gland or go with one of the dripless offerings. I am not a big fan of any of the bellow systems and really do not like the recommended 6-year bellows replacement for the PSS. I installed the LasDrop Lip Seal which has a proper heavy duty silicone shaft log, cutlass bearing guide for the seal, no worries about low oxygen corrosion, and in-the-water lip seal replacement without the need to pull the coupler. The complete seal with two replacement seals cost under $200. So far, I have been very pleased with the results.
 
JamesG161

JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Feb 14, 2014
7,708
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
jssailem said:
Especially now that the PSS dripless has a reinforced silicone bellows.
Click to expand
Best seal to use for Zero Shaft Wear.

Mine...

PYIMechanicalSeal.jpeg

Your Engineer Friend...
Jim...

PS: Engineer term = Single Mechanical Seal
 
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