Restoration, 22' Mac

[Sumner]

Does anyone have a source for Duraglas....

Might depend on which one of their products you want, but I've bought it at automotive paint stores. There should be one of those near you.

Look for a store that carries Dupont or PPG paints and they probably have it,

Sum

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[Smithy]

Might depend on which one of their products you want, but I've bought it at automotive paint stores. There should be one of those near you.

Look for a store that carries Dupont or PPG paints and they probably have it,

Sum

Thanks for the heads-up. I'm looking for the thick, dark, green filler material, that comes with the tube of white peroxide paste catalyst. Gallon size - I have plenty of little touch-ups on this boat, and a few other uses for the matierial elsewhere, if I can find it.

 

[Sumner]

.... I'm looking for the thick, dark, green filler material, that comes with the tube of white peroxide paste catalyst.....

Sounds like the one I use when doing body work and have welded in patch panels. Invariably when welding them in with a mig there will be pin holes and water can come in from the back side of the panel causing rust under the body work later. That filler is waterproof and will help. I put other filler over it that sands better before paint.

If I can find it where I live I'm sure you should be able to find it near you. Call the nearest autobody shop and ask where they buy their fillers and paints,

Sum

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[Smithy]

Excellent advice, Sum. I called a local body shop I've used before, and while they couldn't help me directly, they sent me to the supply shop next door.

They too, said they didn't stock it, but were putting an order in today for a huge load of supplies, and happily added my gallon of material to it, for about half what it would cost me to order online and pay separate shipping and hazmat fees.

Going down that path would have never occurred to me, so a big THANK YOU to Sumner for the most excellent advice!

 

[Smithy]

Picked up the Duraglas today! Excellent turn of events. Tomorrow, we powerwash, cut some storage hatches and make lids, and re-build the setee seats with new plywood. I may try re-bedding a couple loose deck fittings while I'm at it. Need to go prep some oak I have out in the shop for the backing plates, then use the paste as a conformal gasket when we're ready to lock 'em down.

 

[Smithy]

Didn't get as much done as I'd hoped, tearing out the old water damaged settee boards turned into quite the job - someone had mounted them with the standard screws I'd been pulling out of every other piece of hardware, but these had nylon lock-nuts holding down the ones screwed into the keel well... which meant, that unless I blocked up the boat, removed the keel, and had a deep socket on a long enough extension to hold the nuts, there was no clean way to get them out. I ended up drilling them out from the heads, leaving 4 neat holes in my keel well top.

Since I'm pulling a lot of other hardware (got all the deck wood bits off today) I'll wait until I have a good sense of what's going back where, then patch all my little holes with the filler I got yesterday. The reconstruction will be far easier to unmount than what I had to crawl through so far... I can't imagine making a wood part prone to water damage that hard to remove for replacement. If you need to anchor to the glass that hard, why not use a bracket so the bench can be easily replaced?

 

[Smithy]

Can't believe it's been two months since I posted. I've worked on the boat several times since then, here's the rundown:

- Finally got the settee hardware replaced, new benches screwed down (but more removable later)
- Powerwashed the interior several more times to get at 40 years of funk
- Painted the interior with Interlux
- Installed new teak handrails on the cabin, as well as some shorter 3-web ones forward, for toe rails
- Removed the old bow eye, and used Duraglass to replace the old, rotted, soaked wood backing, and replaced the hardware
- Replaced the hatch rails for main hatch and companionway covers
- Building a new table for the settee, with inlay chess board
- Replaced the portside swivel block with cams, for the mainsheet
- Added several blocks to accomodate a spinnaker (which I bought), topping lift, and pennant halyard
- Tore out the rusty, nasty, corroded wiring up the mast and the old broken masthead light, waiting on new gear to arrive
- Glass in the lazarette, to prevent fuel fumes from coming forward into the cabin

I'll take the camera next time to document the progress... been focused on getting things done. Just need to finish some rewiring, get my safety gear in order, and finish the trailer titling process (still fighting Virginia's DMV over that) and I'll be ready to splash. These forums have been a ton of help in inspiring the progress, and have been crucial to our success. Thank you all.

 

[liberty22]

Congratulations Smithy. My first sail was on a friends Mac 24'. I bought a Mac 22' 3 years ago and have really enjoyed it. Can't wait to see your progress and improvements and modifications. Ron

 

[Smithy]

Just about ready to splash. Getting the trailer titled in VA, without a title from the last owner in MD, has been a raging nightmare. I snaked new wiring through the mast, and installed a white anchor light and wind direction tool. Got new tires on the trailer, and ended up needing to get spacers (these wheels were wider than the originals) and new wheel bolts. Interior is painted, just needs a quick vaccum, and finish putting some foam down on the seats... but I'm dying to get it in the water, even if I don't have a trailer plate.

Almost there. So close I can taste it.

 

[Smithy]

 

[MrMikey64]

Absolutely beautiful job, Smithy! Hard to believe it's the same boat! Can we see some interior pics soon?

 

[rgranger]

Getting the trailer titled in VA, without a title from the last owner in MD, has been a raging nightmare.

Ahhhh.... two boats ago, I was in a similar situation... here is how the conversation went.

I brought my paperwork to the DMV and asked to get a title for an EZ-loader that I had a bill of sale for. The PO had told me that North Carolina did not register trailers back when this one was still on the road. The DMV lady told me that was not true and I needed to contact the owner. So I went home. All I had was an eMail ( I bought it on eBay) and the PO would not respond to my emails. So I went back to the DMV and asked what I needed to do. It went something like this...

DMV Lady: Well if it were a homemade trailer you would need to affix a VIN tag and have a police officer witness you putting it on.

Me: But it is not a homemade trailer. It is an EZ-load trailer.

DMV Lady: Well it would certainly be hard to tell that it was not homemade if you got rid of all of the EZ-load decals. Maybe you should come back another day.



True Story!

 

[Freedom77]

Ahhhh.... two boats ago, I was in a similar situation... here is how the conversation went.

I brought my paperwork to the DMV and asked to get a title for an EZ-loader that I had a bill of sale for. The PO had told me that North Carolina did not register trailers back when this one was still on the road. The DMV lady told me that was not true and I needed to contact the owner. So I went home. All I had was an eMail ( I bought it on eBay) and the PO would not respond to my emails. So I went back to the DMV and asked what I needed to do. It went something like this...

DMV Lady: Well if it were a homemade trailer you would need to affix a VIN tag and have a police officer witness you putting it on.

Me: But it is not a homemade trailer. It is an EZ-load trailer.

DMV Lady: Well it would certainly be hard to tell that it was not homemade if you got rid of all of the EZ-load decals. Maybe you should come back another day.



True Story!

Sounds like DMV lady was pretty savvy. More than one way to skin a cat. Simple is good. Go for it. Fair winds and full sails.

 

[Smithy]

Interior pics tomorrow. I took it (with a friend close behind) to our Scout meeting tonight, so I could show the boys the basics of living on and getting around the boat. While there, we put up the mast and hoisted the main, then took it all back down again.

I have no earthly idea how anyone can single-hand that procedure. It took 3 grown men to lever the thing into place, getting the base of the mast in the bracket being the hardest part... and back out again. I about ruined the bolt teeth getting it removed.

Any suggestions for a simpler system? I'm thinking step 1 needs to be a transom-mounted crutch, preferably one that telescopes a bit... then some way to support the base while straight so I can line up the bolt cleanly. I have no idea how to do that alone.

Help!

 

[MrMikey64]

You have some good ideas there already, Smithy.
My 22 has a mast crutch that mounts on the transom wall in the cockpit with two brackets. I am thinking of changing that configuration to include a bow roller at the top. I've thought about one that mounts to the gudgoen pins for the rudder as well. It should keep the mast in the correct position, plus allow it to be moved back with relative ease.
As far as lining up the bolt is concerned, that one has always proven to be an issue for me as well. My 25 has a hinged mast plate, as opposed to the slotted mast plate found on most of the older boats. I've been told it makes the job easier, though I haven't really done any comparisons. Perhaps someone else has an idea on this one?
Finally, I would research the possibility of a mast raising system. There are some good ideas on the site as to how to construct your own, or you can go with one from Blue Water Yachts.
Best of luck!

 

[THECUSCUS]

You can build yourself an inexpensive mast crutch with a 2x4. Buy 2 extra rudder pintles (from BWY or elsewhere, the Mac ones are 1-1/2" wide which is perfect for a 2x4) and a 2x4x8' (I used a pressure treated one). Cut 2 pieces off about 8" each, make a 45 degree cut on one end of each, then screw them to one end of the remaining long piece, making a "Y" (you can add extra strength by bracing the smaller pieces, but be careful not to block the "depth" of your "Y"). You can make your crutch as tall or short as you want. Also, don't forget to put a cotter pin or ring in the pintle so the crutch doesn't jump out when trailering. Sorry my picture doesn't show the top, if you need to see that, let me know and I'll take another picture this weekend. As for putting the bolt in the bottom of the mast, you are putting it in before you raise the mast?? Just asking.

 

[justsomeguy]

It's got a set of bearings dug into the roller, using an old bicycle axle. Rolls easily, but could use a slightly wider "V" on the roller.

 

[timebandit]

may be of some help
http://sites.google.com/site/mac22valentina/mods

 

[Smithy]

Thanks - I bought the gear for the Gin Pole today, will cobble it together tomorrow. Wooden 2x2, aluminum bracket, bolt, and hardware for a pulley system (not as fancy as the linked one...) that should make single-handed raising a lot easier. Now I just need to make a crutch on the Pintels with a roller, and maybe some sort of aid for keeping it straight in the bracket while I line up the bolt. Thanks for the advice!

 

[GreenNCSailor]

Smithy,

I have a simple 2x6 about 8 ft tall with 2 pieces screwed on at the top creating a big "U" to hold the mast. I then position it next to the tiller arm at the transom and secure it. From a completely trailed position I can have the mast up and rigged in 10 mins tops, by myself! Granted I don't have a roller fuller yet which will add some extra weight to the system. I slide the mast back on my support until I hit the step plate, insert the bolt, check my lines for snags and then raise it up (make sure the forestay is free properly positioned). I grab the forestay with hand on the mast, walk forward with the forestay and attach it.