Restoration, 22' Mac

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Nov 23, 2010
116
MacGregor Venture 22 OK/TX
Guy stuff challenged female alert

Water based house paint won't melt it.
OK here is where all that stuff NO ONE ever thought to teach girls back when I was growing up shows up really well.
:confused:

I know about acrylic house paint. That is what melted the foam in The Toy. Technically I think I used spray paint for the experiment. I tried it as an experiment. (See blog) I know about oil based house paint. Where do you get water based house paint or is it the same as acrylic and I just do not know about it? What comes to my mind is water colors like you get kids in those little trays and I'm pretty sure that's not what you are talking about. Tempora ( finger paint like in kindergarten ) comes to mind. The only other idea i have is that white elastic roofing stuff and at 70 bucks for 5 gals it ain't priced all that bad but it is expensive to use for covering foam. ( although I have to admit the more I think about it, it does have its appeal, what with being water proof)
Educate me please. :bang:
 
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May 4, 2005
4,062
Macgregor 26d Ft Lauderdale, Fl
I think T.B. is talking about (exterior) latex house paint (sold at lowes and HD).
 
Oct 24, 2008
424
Macgregor 25 (1984) Wildomar, So. Cal.
What the heck , its cheap enough, to be worth a try.
Even cheaper, ask HD about their OOPS section in paint. It's usually colors that didn't quite match what the customer wanted, so they sell it at a discount.
 
Nov 23, 2010
116
MacGregor Venture 22 OK/TX
Thanks

Even cheaper, ask HD about their OOPS section in paint. It's usually colors that didn't quite match what the customer wanted, so they sell it at a discount.
Ta=hanks when i get that far I'll check it out. walmart as well. I hear they do discounts for oops .
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,377
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
How did you get styrofoam to not melt from painting it?

Styrofoam is made from styrene, a molecule with a benzene ring and an ethylene substituent.

It will dissolve in any non-polar solvent (gasoline, tolunene etc.) However it will not dissolve in polar solvents (water, acetone, alchohols). So stay away form "oil" based paint, or spray paints that contain tolune as the compressed gas.

Any exterior grade paint that has "CLEANS UP WITH WATER" on the description someplace should work well on Styrofoam.
 
Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
I read in your blog that you were contemplating using spray foam to add more flotation, this was descussed at length some years ago.

Some highlights----

A boat with spray foam sat very low in the water because foam absorbed water (likea sponge) over time and was hard to remove foam.

One cure to keep the foam from sticking and holding water was to stick a plastic bag in the area and then fill the bag with foam.

My foam blocks are just small enuff to fit in the hatches and after removing I had a hell of a time reinstalling them all, yes it is that stuffed.

My 25 has the foam in just the front and back, the the port and stbd. sides are empty for storage.

What the heck , its cheap enough, to be worth a try.
 

Smithy

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Dec 13, 2010
162
Macgregor 22 Alexandria, VA
Now that the paint hijack is over...

;)

I inspected my sails yesterday, for the first time since buying the boat. I find the cloth in good condition, the rope at the mainsail luff to be good, and all stitching to be intact and without wear. The bronze grommets are a bit green, as are the hank fittings for the jib, but I think a little elbow grease, a stiff brush, and maybe some brass cleaner will do the trick well enough. Maybe even a spot of car wax, to inhibit further corrosion.

The jib sheets are still on the sail, and while slightly fuzzy and obviously somewhat aged, I think they'll do for a season. No worse than what I've seen on some rental boats - no nicks in the braid, or stiff spots, or chafing in any one section.
 

Smithy

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Dec 13, 2010
162
Macgregor 22 Alexandria, VA
Finally, an update.

It's been so cold most of the time, I hesitated to send boys down into a frozen bilge. With a couple weeks of favorable weather now, and a forecast of a clear cool day, I sent out a call for volunteers to work on our little craft.

Here's what we pulled out, for the dump:



Pulled all the old cushions, rotted out trim, the "galley" and upright cooler, old tilt-bowl porta-pot, and some random lumber that was tucked away in the starboard quarter... and what was left of the rusted out battery mount. Full pickup load.

A lot of scrubbing was involved, to get the funk of nearly forty years out of there:





Next up is a complete re-wire. There's lamp wire, crimp connectors, and corroded wire all over the place. I'll tear everything out, solder and shrink-wrap all the connections and put up better anchors to bring it up to code. I think I'm going to install some LED interior lighting, so we have plentiful house lights for overnights with minimal draw... one over the dining table, one where the new galley will stand (old head location forward of the starboard seats), one for the V-berth, one for the portside quarterberth, and maybe even something for the cockpit.

After that, I need to cut new storage hatches along the portside bench, so I can use some of that abundant space under there. I'll install hinged lids, and make sure everything's supported well for sleeping or sitting there.

Then we'll repaint the interior with white latex exterior paint, semigloss. That ought to brighten it a bit. Install some new trim, replace the dinette wood with new boards, and build a galley cabinet. Get new foam and sew covers for everything.

and, and, and... the list seems endless. But that ought to get us to a strong usable point.

Here's an interior panorama in its current state:

 

Smithy

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Dec 13, 2010
162
Macgregor 22 Alexandria, VA
One thing I noticed today, that bothered me, was this:



The boom-end. The bolt holding the hardware on is neither holding it flush with the end, nor is it fixed - it rotates freely, but without getting tighter or looser, as if there's a nylock inside, but not fixed down at the proper tension.

I'm unsure if this is safe and proper, or within my power to fix... has anyone else experienced this?
 
Nov 23, 2010
116
MacGregor Venture 22 OK/TX
Does not Change a Thing

As titled, what I am about to say does not change a thing but I have the same identical boat model. I was told it's a variation of the Venture 222. That means it has extra options not in the regular V 222. A very nice boat indeed, if I do say so my self.
Here is to a classic lady. Long may she sail
 
Sep 4, 2010
115
MacGregor Venture 25 Ocean Grove, Swansea MA
The tab on the end of the boom is identical to my '76 V25. I also thought it was a bit loose, but it needs to be able to swivel around freely in order to work properly. So... I think that's how it's supposed to be (but I could be wrong - I've never noticed this on anyone else's Mac (I've never looked)).
 

Smithy

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Dec 13, 2010
162
Macgregor 22 Alexandria, VA
I get the "needs to swivel freely" part, but the fact that there's -so- much play in that bolt still concerns me. It's not rigid to the axis of the boom, either - there's about 10-20* of off-center play on that bolt as well as the free spinning issue. I would think in a part that can experience such shock loads, this would be a bad idea.

But barring perfect knowledge of the design, it's impossible for me to say.

And btw, it's a '72 V22, non-poptop, hull number 637 I think, if I read the holes right yesterday. It was an awkward stretch.
 
Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
If ya just gotta then drill out the rivits and pull the plug and tighten the nut a little but only after you have sailed the boat for a bit to be sure you need to.
 

Smithy

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Dec 13, 2010
162
Macgregor 22 Alexandria, VA
I'm happy to leave it alone if I can get a good sense that this is normal, I just wanted to make sure first.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,377
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
Hey Smithy

Nice looking boat. I notice your workers cleaning up inside. If you have a pressure washer, don't be afraid to go in with the pressure washer in one hand and the shop Vac in the other. That is how I got my walls nice and clean again. Or rent one if you don't own one.

Also you can get the moldy stink out using moth balls (once you get her clean). The chemical in wood preservative (the green stuff you buy at Lowes) is paradichloronaphthalene. Moth balls are simply naphthalene. The absence of the two chlorines makes naphthalene more volatile. BUT it does a great job of killing mold spores. And the volatile nature of naphthalene allows it to get every place in your boat. Lay out a box of moth balls on a tray or in a bucket and seal up the boat. Let it stand a week or two and you will have a LOT LESS trouble with mold all season long.
 
Apr 23, 2010
136
Venture 2-22 Oneida Lake
boom end

My '72 V222 doesn't have quite that much play at the end cap tangs. Also, mine has two (one for the mainsheet block, one for hanging the boom on the backstay) tangs.

Drilling out the rivets is easy, and you can use stainless steel self-tapping screws from any hardware store to reattach the cap. If you leave it just the way it is, though, you'll probably be fine.
 
Nov 23, 2010
116
MacGregor Venture 22 OK/TX
OPPS

I get the "needs to swivel freely" part, but the fact that there's -so- much play in that bolt still concerns me. It's not rigid to the axis of the boom, either - there's about 10-20* of off-center play on that bolt as well as the free spinning issue. I would think in a part that can experience such shock loads, this would be a bad idea.

But barring perfect knowledge of the design, it's impossible for me to say.

And btw, it's a '72 V22, non-poptop, hull number 637 I think, if I read the holes right yesterday. It was an awkward stretch.

Did not notice the no pop top.
 
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