I got a phone call on Friday from the Yard asking if I had time to come and talk with the Fiberglass guy,
Timmy.
I arrived 35 minutes later to find this...
Our new Rudder inserted into the boat side,
Rudder Bearing Tube.
The Yard followed our suggested install method, with the exception of my being there to video it.
Note: The install method was coordinated effort by SBO [Joe Kerr], Foss Foam Rudder maker, a few close friends, and Engineer [me].
_____
The Great News...
The
Rudder Bearing Tube is now aligned again and the New Rudder Side Bearing fit!!
Top view...
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The next step is what
Timmy [FRB expert] needed me to discuss...
1) The Yard needs to lower the hoisted boat back on its blocked up Keel/Jack-Stands. Lowering the
Hydraulic Jack at same time.
2) Gently tap the
Rudder Bearing Tube [
RBT] downward to its OEM position.
3) Clean up the FRP hole and secure
RBT in position. Per
Timmy, two thin strips of mat.
4) Finish the FRP repair back to OEM conditions. That part was not part of the Hull, but a patch for Cockpit drainage.
This method assures the perfect OEM, Vertical Rudder Shaft alignment.
This all sounds complex, but it was Hunter Design for all Wheel type steering.
This is my Road Map to terms and understanding for All Hunter Owners.
Here is a picture from SBO showing the
Rudder Tubular Enclosure [
RTE]
[the white column=
RTE].
That makes the boat Water Tight.
Inside that
RTE is the
RBT. Clear now?
What was pushed up on my boat was the
RBT that was glued to the
RTE by the OEM.
Pant pant pant, whew, a lot of Initials...
I do this explanation because of 4 Private Messages from people who have Rudder Issues.
I did confirm the
RTE and
RBT bearings were all good, prior to the Rudder order from SBO shops.
Inside
RBT looking up.
Essentially no wear.
Step by Step...
Jim...