Here is the video…but I do t think you can do this underwater…
Check my channel ,for other videos when I pulled my shaft, replaced the shaft, replaced my stuffing box with a VP dripless seal, etc.
Greg
Measurements of the Cutlass Bearing?
- Thread starter RSHunter27
- Start date
Check my channel ,for other videos when I pulled my shaft, replaced the shaft, replaced my stuffing box with a VP dripless seal, etc.
Greg
Getting things together here I've got a CV joint coming that will couple to the gearbox. Creating the mount for the pillow bearing I will glass it all in make it stronger than hell. Anyway I will watch the video. Thank you Greg!
-Rob
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Good video Greg. That's kind of what I had in mind.Getting things together here I've got a CV joint coming that will couple to the gearbox. Creating the mount for the pillow bearing I will glass it all in make it stronger than hell. Anyway I will watch the video. Thank you Greg!
-Rob
After looking at @Tally Ho 's video (again), have you given any thought to the idea that the previous owner may have tightened the hell out of the the set screws on the strut and thereby crushing the brass sleeve and rubber liner on the shaft ? I've spent endless sleepless nights tossing and turning over this and I just can't come up with anything that would cause the cutlass bearing to jam so badly. Something to look at when you remove the set screws.
Any idea if the shaft has always been this tight since you bought the boat ?
Any idea if the shaft has always been this tight since you bought the boat ?
That's what all the girls say!
Did I forget to say lol?
I have a CV joint that will connect the shaft to the gearbox. Should I say it is coming in today. The new Cutlass bearing we're supposed to be here today they say it's going to be here tomorrow. Diving gear and tanks regulator and all that I ordered was supposed to be here by now. Weird tracking information on it don't know when it's going to be here for sure. I'll be fiberglassing in and making a very solid wall, albeit Short but it will be stocky as the boat will from here on be pushed by the prop and not the gearbox / motor. In any event I'm waiting to finish the the Cutlass bearing and strut to be sure that I'll be keeping the shaft before I complete the wall and finalize the interior drivetrain. I bought the parts and I'll be constructing a bearing removal jig that should slide over the shaft and push out the bearing if they are not fused together. I'm going to pick up a bung /plug so I'll have it handy if there's a problem with removing the Cutlass and such I'll pull the shafts plug it and do what I need to do. Hopefully it won't come to that.
Exactly! That's why...... I got the new CV joint in. Now if I can just get them to deliver my Cutlass bearing and my dive gear I can get that outside done and put this on the inside and get rolling again.
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Not yet, I need to get the Cutlass in and check that situation out. The overall length needs to be configured from the prop forward, the way I figure it. But I did get the CV joint in.
Well I haven't posted for a bit. It's been a little bit slow going. Still haven't got the air tanks filled so it's you know 30 seconds down at a time. But I've managed to get the prop off and cleaned up. I cleaned up the shaft about as good as I could underwater. And pulled it in the boat. About the time I began to take off the prop, I realized it was now spinning very freely. I guess I had broken loose whatever was binding it up. Had a bugger of a time trying to get the Cutlass out. I got a hacksaw and cut off the part that was hanging out. There's not much of the rubber left in the interior of the bearing . Anyway, my back hasn't been cooperating and giving me fits so I've had to take my rests. Here's a few pictures to satisfy some curiosities and maybe it will spark some comments. I don't have an underwater camera to take pictures of the exterior. Well, again tomorrow when I get that Cutlass out and the new one in.
Is that the wear from the packing that we can see ?
Can't see how that was done with flax packing unless the water was loaded with silt. I hope the worn area is nowhere near the new shaft seal.
Why does the one picture show the prop as pink when the other side of the prop appears normal ? Lighting ?
Can't see how that was done with flax packing unless the water was loaded with silt. I hope the worn area is nowhere near the new shaft seal.
Why does the one picture show the prop as pink when the other side of the prop appears normal ? Lighting ?
Well Ralph I think that is due to friction and heat. That's my best guess anyway. I'll be cutting off part of the shaft anyway. Hopefully I can get the old bearing out tomorrow in the new one in. Then I can start working on the inside. That I should be able to do swiftly. Getting the shaft off and all that solo was a real undertaking. I don't believe I want to do that again.
Pink usually indicates dezincification - a type of corrosion that leaves the metal quite weak. True bronze does not contain zinc, but if the prop was “manganese bronze” that’s really a form of brass and contains (or contained) zinc.
If it’s just the lighting of the picture making it look that way it’s not an issue. If it’s really that pink it could be a problem.
Some sort deterioration of the bronze…I am not sure what it is called…not good though. Significantly weaken the metal.
I would also check the shaft for cracks…mine were circumferential. Visible with the naked eye, but easier to make out with a magnifying glass.
Greg
It was coated with mineral buildup so I dipped it in muriatic acid. And that's the color it came out. But all I have to do is Polish or rubbing a little bit and it comes back more yellowish.
Yeah mine was worn like yours around the stuffing box. It was pretty loose so it could move, up and down mostly. And I'm going to tell you so far I really love this new flex shaft seal. And I can't imagine it will be any different once I get things running. I've been having a difficult time getting the Cutlass bearing out. That same mineral buildup that was on the prop is what is cemented the Cutlass and the shaft tube. And likely what had the shaft Frozen. This Lake was a sandstone Rock quarry. I've got another design to pull the bearing out tomorrow. I'm pretty sure this one will work. The one pictured here did not work, as I cranked it down the bolts bent.
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As long as it shows its original bronze colour a few thou underneath, it's good to go.