Measurements of the Cutlass Bearing?

[Ralph Johnstone]

What caught my eye :

Raw water cooled engines have their problems and the 25A alternator will cut down on your luxuries for the usual reasons when you are on the hook for any time. How does the price of the BMW D7 compare to a rebuilt Yanmar 2GM 20F with 2.7 times the HP ?

If I add much more to the shaft system I won't have to move my engine I can just hook it up right there in the salon.

No problem. Just add a few small signs around the engine for safety :

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

That's a pretty cool program it appears that you make these graphic designs with. What program are you using if you don't mind I ask?

For quick crude sketches I use use something called Smartdraw which was around $50.00 in it's day long, long ago. What I use here on photos for pointing out things is a freeware program called Faststone Image Viewer. It is far more useful and very fast. You "could" produce sketches using it but really crude. Requires a Grade Four Reform School education to operate. One of the best IMO.

 

[RSHunter27]

What caught my eye :

View attachment 219088

View attachment 219090

Raw water cooled engines have their problems and the 25A alternator will cut down on your luxuries for the usual reasons when you are on the hook for any time. How does the price of the BMW D7 compare to a rebuilt Yanmar 2GM 20F with 2.7 times the HP ?



No problem. Just add a few small signs around the engine for safety :

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I picked this one up for a song. A neighbor was going to electric. Thinking that the Renault RC8D was R.I.P., I merely was wanting to make this boat move again. On this little lake it is plenty. But, if I decide to haul to the gulf, I'll want to go around 20hp+. I am going to be unable to stay aboard in about three weeks. I've decisions to make. I may keep it here and go to FL and back to my blue water quest. today.... I want to complete the project that I have started. Even though my back say no.

 

[RSHunter27]

What caught my eye :

View attachment 219088

View attachment 219090

Raw water cooled engines have their problems and the 25A alternator will cut down on your luxuries for the usual reasons when you are on the hook for any time. How does the price of the BMW D7 compare to a rebuilt Yanmar 2GM 20F with 2.7 times the HP ?



No problem. Just add a few small signs around the engine for safety :

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If I build the shaft the way I would like, I'll have to move it to the V-berth.

 

[RSHunter27]

Well I didn't sink my boat. Looks good and I picked up a couple inches. But there was no change in the movement of the shaft. I put on my mask and snorkel went down and wired brushed a bit and yanked on it, it's pretty tight feels loose up at the seal. The Cutlass is froze up... Next...
A before and after.

 

[RSHunter27]

This is the one that fits my H27:. Morse BLACKFISH 1 X 1 1/4 X 4 Brass Bearing

It is about an inch too long, so you can let it stick out an inch or cut some off with a hacksaw. Easy to cut because of how thin the brass and rubber casing is.

So I'm looking at a Morris Betta, 1" x 1-1/4" x 3" . Any reason why this wouldn't be right?

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

The Cutlass is froze up... Next...

That would be a bit of a bugger to deal with on dry land. Removing the cutlass without removing the shaft and all underwater ............................... nah, I'd rather try parting the Red Sea.

I know this isn't the kind of encouragement you were looking for, but unless you can lift the boat out of the water using sky hooks, I don't see how you can remove the cutlass bearing.

 

[RSHunter27]

That would be a bit of a bugger to deal with on dry land. Removing the cutlass without removing the shaft and all underwater ............................... nah, I'd rather try parting the Red Sea.

I know this isn't the kind of encouragement you were looking for, but unless you can lift the boat out of the water using sky hooks, I don't see how you can remove the cutlass bearing.

Well I thought about using airbags to lift the transom up, but I have an air tank coming, I think I'll just dive on it.

 

[Tally Ho]

When you say the cutlass is “froze”, do you mean you can’t get it out of the strut, or the shaft won’t turn in the bearing?

The bearing may be held in the strut by a few (2) set screws. Often, they are painted over and hard to see. You need to get them out before trying to remove the bearing.

If the shaft won’t turn in the bearing, then I suspect you have some other issue (like the strut isn’t aligned). But who knows….we can’t guess without photos or more info.

The Johnson seal looks good.

Greg

 

[RSHunter27]

When you say the cutlass is “froze”, do you mean you can’t get it out of the strut, or the shaft won’t turn in the bearing?

The bearing may be held in the strut by a few (2) set screws. Often, they are painted over and hard to see. You need to get them out before trying to remove the bearing.

If the shaft won’t turn in the bearing, then I suspect you have some other issue (like the strut isn’t aligned). But who knows….we can’t guess without photos or more info.

The Johnson seal looks good.

Greg

After installing the new soft seal there's a lot of flexibility in other words I can move the shaft in a circular direction in the engine compartment effortlessly, however it is still almost impossible to spin. In fact with a vise grip it takes considerable effort to even budge it. So it is free in the log however nearly Frozen when I attempt to turn the prop itself and trying to slip the shaft forward or aft is nearly impossible. I cannot see a misalignment of the strut. And as it is free at the log, of course the only place to bind it up aft of the log is the strut.

 

[RSHunter27]

I don't know what can be going on inside the strut bearing / Cutlass they could make it bind so fiercely. Even with two hands on the prop it is difficult to budge. I have some dive equipment coming later this week my intent is to go down and remove the prop change out the Cutlass and I think I'll know a lot of the story by then.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

A while back, @Tally Ho produced a video which I "believe" was a demonstration of removing the cutlass with the shaft in place. If I'm wrong, it was a cutlass removal with the shaft removed. Maybe he's done both for all I know. @Tally Ho , can you located it or them ? Regardless, it or they were excellent demonstrations. Also what they show is the precision required to do the job. Doing it underwater ............ I'm hoping I'm wrong, but it may be impossible.

Maybe floating the stern up and out of the water is not all that far fetched compared to an underwater cutlass re and re.

 

[RSHunter27]

I know you don't know me basically at all, but those that do know me or have known me for well all my life, know that I have, on many occasions, managed to do the impossible. And at minimal, the improbable or unlikely. And mostly because I've never had an aversion to making an effort. Or multiple efforts if required. So we'll see. I may end up with some egg on my face.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I may end up with some egg on my face.

Not a problem as long as you replace the cutlass and that's the cause of the binding.

 

[RSHunter27]

View attachment 219180

Not a problem as long as you replace the cutlass and that's the cause of the binding.

I know one thing for sure it's going to be tough to get out of there. I figure since I can't pound it out underwater I'll have to press it out with a jig. I'm pretty sure it's not going to just jump out of there if I say pretty please. I'd really like to have it out of the water. But since hauling is not possible, and I would have to find and or figure out some airbag or flotation system to lift the transom, not to mention that I'm running out of time, just got to give it my best shot.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I see you're between two fingers :

Is there any chance of backing in stern first, loading a bunch of junk on the bow and see how much force would be required to lift the prop out of the water without attracting too much attention ? Use a beam between the fingers and work from there.

Drain every tank on board (unless it's at the bow) and get the loose engine as far forward as possible. Remove everything that isn't attached to the boat.

I know, I know :

Desperate situations call for desperate measures.

 

[RSHunter27]

Well, there's another idea... I thought of a few heavy ratchet straps, attach them to the fingers. It really doesn't need to come up very much. The water tank and waste tank are both under the vberth. getting tired. maybe some math in the morning.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

The water tank and waste tank are both under the vberth.

Fill them up to the top. Every little bit helps.

 

[RSHunter27]

A while back, @Tally Ho produced a video which I "believe" was a demonstration of removing the cutlass with the shaft in place. If I'm wrong, it was a cutlass removal with the shaft removed. Maybe he's done both for all I know. @Tally Ho , can you located it or them ? Regardless, it or they were excellent demonstrations. Also what they show is the precision required to do the job. Doing it underwater ............ I'm hoping I'm wrong, but it may be impossible.

Maybe floating the stern up and out of the water is not all that far fetched compared to an underwater cutlass re and re.

I wonder why tally ho did not suggest that to me... to watch the video. Do you know a link to the video and or what it was called and where it was located?

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Morning @Tally Ho ,

could you please provide a link to a AAA+ video you produced and posted here some unknown time ago dealing with

1. The removal of a cutlass bearing with the shaft in place

OR

2. The removal of a cutlass bearing with the shaft removed

It was so long ago (maybe even further back than yesterday) I can't remember which.