Let me take this opportunity to warn you about scope creep, a topic which all boat owners eventually become painfully familiar with...How hard would it be for me to replace/install a through hull fitting below the waterline?
Obviously, the boat needs to be out of the water. Because you haven't done this previously, I would estimate 60-90 minutes. Decide what components that you plan to replace (thru hull, valve, tailpiece, & hose); should replace all components if they haven't been replaced in past. Also check to determine if there is a wooden "backer plate" between the interior of the hull & thru hull nut; if it is present & rotted, it should also be replaced. Cut off the outside/mushroom surface of the thru hull fitting with a powered grinder & abrasive wheel or disc. Disconnect the hose on the inside of the boat & pull the remainder of the thru hull fitting, valve, & tail piece from inside the boat. (approximately 15 minutes). Clean up the hole in the hull & remove all remaining sealer with sand paper & wipe with acetone. Dry fit new thru hull fitting & valve to ensure the valve handle is oriented in a convenient location. I mask the hull surface surrounding the hole to ease cleanup of excess 3M4200 that I use to seat/seal the thru hull fitting (40 minutes). I use Permatex pipe thread sealant on the remaining thread surfaces. Preferrable to have someone on the outside holding the fitting in position to prevent movement while you are tightening the thru hull nut on the inside of the boat. Install the valve & tailpiece (30 minutes). Allow the entire assembly to set up for at least 24 hours; be sure to read 3M label for ambient temperature setting times. Install the new hose & two clamps on each hose end. (15 minutes) & be sure to check for leaks when the boat is splashed.How hard would it be for me to replace/install a through hull fitting below the waterline?
Can we say destruction of property? If you have pics and proof, you might be able to take this guy to small claims court. Since you're paying through the nose already, I'd be reporting him to the yardI was hoping to post a positive update as I went over to the boatyard again, but another boat owner in the yard started grinding out blisters on my hull without asking me. He just walked up with a drill while I was epoxying, wanted to show me how easy it is apparently (I did not know him before, he just walked up with a drill)
Is this normal?
I’ve been set back a week because of this and stressed about what else he might do to my boat.
Since I may really be stuck in the boatyard now, how hard would it be to winterize the boat? Am i just draining the engine and tanks?
I think before we go to that kind of extreme, perhaps we should get some pictures of what the guy did. Could be he actually just helped... Might not have done anything that could be deemed "destructive".Can we say destruction of property? If you have pics and proof, you might be able to take this guy to small claims court. Since you're paying through the nose already, I'd be reporting him to the yard
Sometimes you meet the weirdest people in a boatyard. Tell him to back off in a firm but cordial manner & if he becomes more of a problem, report to yard manager.another boat owner in the yard started grinding out blisters on my hull without asking me. Is this normal? stressed about what else he might do to my boat.
Oh My.I was hoping to post a positive update as I went over to the boatyard again, but another boat owner in the yard started grinding out blisters on my hull without asking me. He just walked up with a drill while I was epoxying, wanted to show me how easy it is apparently (I did not know him before, he just walked up with a drill)
Is this normal?
Probably okay until the spring . . .Am I looking at another big project, or could I patch this up and wait until spring?
If you mean 'no reports', you might want to change the wording to *"very seldom" ... as there was a time in the 70's when they were using a plywood reinforcement in the the sump. Keel bolts when thru that and a thinner-than-optimal layup. The plywood rotted. Not sure if any keel totally fell off, but fixing them was time and money consuming.There have been no reports of keels falling off C30's due the smile.
The C30's, and if I'm not mistaken, other Catalinas, used wood until 86 or 87 when the Mark II came outIf you mean 'no reports', you might want to change the wording to *"very seldom" ... as there was a time in the 70's when they were using a plywood reinforcement in the the sump. Keel bolts when thru that and a thinner-than-optimal layup. The plywood rotted. Not sure if any keel totally fell off, but fixing them was time and money consuming.
An early -70's - Catalina 30 really needs an informed survey before a purchase. Carefully inspect that (very common) "shoebox" type of hull/deck joint also. Out of a large production run there was a report in the early 80's of one (but only one) that sunk off of SF, in large seas due to that seam opening up when the hull was knocked on its side by the seas; all were rescued safely.
Perspective: many production boats have had areas of weakness that showed up one or more decades later. The 'trick' is to build 'em just strong enough but not one dollar stronger in a market where the mass builders were/are in a constant race to the bottom to maintain a thin profit margin.
* There was also the early-production O'Day 30 that totally lost its keel due to similar build problem, in Texas. Rare occurrences tho, considering how many sailboats were built to capitalize on the gas shortages in the 70's, and good surveyors know what to look for.
Opinion: finding an older sailboat worth restoring is actually easier than locating a good surveyor. Unfortunately.
You are correct on both points.The C30's, and if I'm not mistaken, other Catalinas, used wood until 86 or 87 when the Mark II came out
What I don't understand is the torque dropping. That implies that something is moving - it could be the bolt is breaking or the attachment is somehow not stable. Perhaps the hull is compressing or the keel attachment is sliding - neither are good things.Since I have torqued the keel bolts (I have the smile) i got the back 4 torqued to spec, but the front three seem to not hold the torque (i can get it up to around 60-80lbs but the torque seems to drop when i stop) no cracking of the gelcoat but i do see a few drips of water coming out of the smile after torquing. Am I looking at another big project, or could I patch this up and wait until spring?