Restoration of 1981 C-22 swing keel #10580

[hawk232]

The 24 hr rest is for the charge to equalize. If measured right after heavy use the batt will appear more depleted than it actually is. After a charge it will appear to be more charged than it actually is. After charging mine will read 12.8v for several hours after the charger is removed.

 

[jmczzz]

Hawk, Thank you, sorry Cloud for my interruption. James

 

[ShotgunSlim]

That starboard bulkhead has got to be the prettiest one I've ever seen on any boat....can't...stop....staring. Beautiful wood and work!

 

[CloudDiver]

I've been holding out on you guys...

This past weekend it rained like crazy so that put a stop to my plans for finishing the interior trim varnish. I'm very close to having the interior all put back together (for the most part).

While it was pouring rain at made a few stops to my fav store, K-Surplus where I found sweet little aluminum drawer pulls to use on the new starboard panel. I also had picked up some cabinet door magnet kits to help it stay closed. They have plastic bodies and the magnets are the strongest ones in the selection they had. I also picked up the first component of the new electrical system, the battery on/off switch. I could have saved $8 buying it on-line, but it was raining and I needed other work to do so I git this one at West Marine for $29.

Here it is with the seat cushions in place. I made sure I checked first and mounted the battery switch as far left as I could, but enough to the right so it was clear of the cushion;

 

[CloudDiver]

You have to pull the back cushion away to open the panel which is actually an added bonus, it trims everything up nice. The cabinet door magnets hold the panel very secure, you actually have to pull on both handles to open it. Thats important because when the switch panels are added there will be a little more weight to it. Even if the panel were to come free it wouldn't free-fall if the seat-back cushion is snapped into place. I will probably add a safety lanyard as well. You can see the cabinet door magnets mounted up on the top edge. These were a pain o line up correctly and screw in. I had to use my jerry-rigged right angle drill that I made from a die-grinder and turn the screws by hand with a stubby driver;

 

[CloudDiver]

Thats as far as I will go with the electrical panel until I am ready to finish the entire wiring job, which will probably be the last thing prior to launch. You'll notice in the previous pic the small bolts and nuts holding the panel to the hinge. I'm keeping the connection temporary until I can do the final cut outs for the panels, then I will permanently install with stainless rivets.

So in another post we were talking about battery size and moving batteries forward. I had planned on using just one group 27, but building a set up that will allow for adding another later if needed on longer trips. I got 2 new battery boxes and placed them in the V-beth hull compartment. remember there are two compartments under the V-berth on the pre-85 models, there if the one farther aft that doesn't have a liner. As you can see its pretty tight with two boxes, and once they sit on a flat floor they will be higher. It doesn't look this will be a good fit, so I might need to go with a pair of group 24's;

 

[CloudDiver]

FWD Battery Tray, continued...

So I had 2 group 27 boxes... too big. Back to WM to swap out for for 2 group 24's. Better fit, easier to lower boxes into compartment with batteries inside, room for wiring, etc.

I used some of the 1/2" Marine grade plywood and cut a piece 12.75" x 22". I added the lip to the front edge. I was also going to add strips around the footprint of each box to help hold them in place in addition to the strap, but I thought it would look nicer if I get some 1x1 hardwood, maybe teak or maybe mahogany, whatever is cheapest I guess.

I was going to to make the tray from 2 layers of plywood to support the weight of 2 batteries without flexing but I figured that was overkill. I put a single layer of 8.5 oz glass fabric on the top and bottom plus a float coat of thickened epoxy to fill in the weave. After sanding I'll paint this with the white BilgeKote enamel.

I really didn't feel like using tabs and epoxy to glue this down to the hull, I feel like it should be removable just in case. I came up with the idea to use some of my stainless piano hinge on the back edge to secure it, and then the triangle blocks on the bottom will support the weight. Come to find out the stainless piano hinge stock I have is not in fact stainless, evident by the surface rust it has. Good thing I had yet to install the hinges on the cockpit lazarett hatches. I'll order some real 304 stainless from Amazon this week.

Anyway, I know the fasteners are going to come through the bulkhead and gelcoat in the forward area of the Vee Berth, but it won't look bad, just a nice line of stainless machine screws. When I get it installed the shelf will actually fold up if you take the batteries out. No real practical use for that I guess other than being able to clean under the tray... so I guess thats as good a reason as any!

Here is the tray sitting in the space with some temp blocks under it to get it roughly into place and somewhat level;

 

[CloudDiver]

Here are the battery boxes on the tray. They are all the way forward until they butt against the fwd lip. There is enough space aft so they don't touch the inside bulkhead, and enough space between them to easily run the wires and get the tops on after;

 

[CloudDiver]

So, with two batteries the way this has to work to get them in and out safely; you have to have the battery in the main box and lower it in the space and move it far off to one side and then put the second battery in. The tops can be on or off when you do this, but its easier if they are off. Then you can position both batteries into place where there will be stop blocks around the footprint of each box.

There are also plastic foot-print holders I could use instead of hardwood blocks, but I think those are made for batteries alone, not inside of box. I'll look into it.

The fun part now is to get the new piano hinge in actual stainless steel this time and get it installed, then figure out how to measure correctly for the triangle blocks that will go on the bottom of the tray... I have a few tools like a carpenter's adjustable angle finder/transfer tool that should do the trick.

For the immediate future I think I'll just use one battery anyway, I just wanted make the tray expandable to hold two should the need arise. With one battery you could have the box centered and lower the battery right into the box without knocking the sides;

 

[CloudDiver]

It was Christmas in August this Friday when the UPS man left a big box at my door;

 

[CloudDiver]

 

[CloudDiver]

This time my sails are DEFINITELY made of Challenge Warp drive 6.5oz cloth, LOL!

I pulled a sneaky trick to hoist my sails up in the living room... And old cheek block I won't be re-using screwed into the beam at the top of my vaulted ceiling... still only 17 feet so I can't get the sail out full, but close enough.

 

[Gene Neill]

Cheers brother, I'm glad you got the right stuff in the end!!

17 feet? I could barely hang a bed sheet from ceiling to floor in my place.

 

[Leeward Rail]

Not sure why I'm not getting thread update emails...

Congrats Luke ! I hope you got your money back on the other sail.

 

[CloudDiver]

Its kind of neat, I only have a vaulted ceiling in the entry way of the house where the stairs go up the 2nd floor landing and part of the living room. Helps the house feel more open, but its an average size 4 bedroom.

Cheers brother, I'm glad you got the right stuff in the end!!

17 feet? I could barely hang a bed sheet from ceiling to floor in my place.

 

[CloudDiver]

Thanks... Its really all thanks to Judy B for helping with the situation. It was a very unpleasant couple of long conversation I had with the 'other' sailmaker, but in the end I got a set of Hyde sails that are much better and made of the correct fabric. The main is loose footed as well.

Not sure why I'm not getting thread update emails...

Congrats Luke ! I hope you got your money back on the other sail.

 

[jmczzz]

Thanks for this write up and esp. pics. My plan is to move battery to this forward space. I just bought the wire but have not figured out the floor space to hold them. Also I do not have a clue as to how to figure out the angled blocks to support the floor. I was thinking I would just use epoxy on each side of the floor to secure it to the hull? I hope you will include your solution in this thread. Are you going to use straps to secure or just the blocks of wood?
My existing battery was just laying in the aft settee compartment and a gust heeled me to port and the bat slid over pulling the crappie PO’s wiring lose so the time is right to tackle this refit project.
I will copy your floor but may use starboard instead of glassed and epoxy ply. Although I do not know if starboard can be held with epoxy? Do you?
Thanks
James

 

[CloudDiver]

I've been wondering what adhesives work on starboard myself... Its pretty expensive stuff, and you'll need the thicker stock to support the battery. If you are going with just one battery you could just epoxy in one small piece of material to make the V section of the hull flat for the bottom of the batter box.

To figure out what triangles I need to make for the bottom of my tray I'll use a carpenter angle finder, but first I need to get new stainless piano hinge and get the back end level and secure against the bulkhead.

Thanks for this write up and esp. pics. My plan is to move battery to this forward space. I just bought the wire but have not figured out the floor space to hold them. Also I do not have a clue as to how to figure out the angled blocks to support the floor. I was thinking I would just use epoxy on each side of the floor to secure it to the hull? I hope you will include your solution in this thread. Are you going to use straps to secure or just the blocks of wood?
My existing battery was just laying in the aft settee compartment and a gust heeled me to port and the bat slid over pulling the crappie PO’s wiring lose so the time is right to tackle this refit project.
I will copy your floor but may use starboard instead of glassed and epoxy ply. Although I do not know if starboard can be held with epoxy? Do you?
Thanks
James

 

[Gene Neill]

Starboard is made of HDPE; almost nothing in the universe will stick to it. Even Satan's Glue peels off of it like masking tape.

 

[jmczzz]

Thanks, if satan can't stick it I sure won't try...James