Restoration of 1981 C-22 swing keel #10580

[Leeward Rail]

Nice work Luke.
You may beat me to the launch ramp.

Edit: You paid a penalty because the previous owner of the zodiac didn't pay the registration ?

 

[CloudDiver]

Yes, DMV claims the Zodiac registration hadn't been paid since 2013. I got the title from the owner but not proof of registration (not required anyway). I could have sworn there were 2015 stickers on the Zodiac, but you can't argue with CA DMV. The C-22 was current, only costs about $20 a year. The Zodiac should be $14 or so a year, but with the penalties it was $80!

Nice work Luke.
You may beat me to the launch ramp.

Edit: You paid a penalty because the previous owner of the zodiac didn't pay the registration ?

 

[jmczzz]

Are your bulkheads solid wood? Are they teak? I think mine are some sort of fake wood looking press board. I may be wrong but that is what they look like. Cheap! I guess I'll have to find a hidden spot to test.
Nice work BTW.
James

 

[Leeward Rail]

Luke: That's messed up. Why should you pay when it wasn't your boat ? ugh. That forward bulkhead looks nice. What type of veneer is it ?

James: The bulkheads were plywood with teak veneers. My 87's bulkheads needed replacing so I assume that older boats would likely need them or have already had them done by a previous owner. The smaller starboard bulkhead at the back of the photo that CloudDiver posted is what they originally looked like.

 

[CloudDiver]

Yes, my bulkheads are the factory Catalina plywood that has a thin Teak veneer. Its VERY thin veneer so you have to sand it very carefully. I made s few 'Opps' spots but luckily they are covered by the chainplates or other things. I tried filling in the various screw holes where the PO put in odd stuff that won't go back on. I used and old trick using wood glue and rubbing teak saw dust into the wet dab in the hole. I worked ok I suppose but I'm not going to bother with it anywhere else. Wherever I have odd screw holes in my interior wood I will either mount something new using those holes, find other creative ways to cover them, or use the woodworking color wax pencils to fill them after they are varnished. One way or the other they aren't too much of eye sore after Cetol and Varnish kind of fills them in a little.

 

[CloudDiver]

First update in 2 weeks... Electrical

Its about time to shift back into high gear. I've been working on several small things on the interior, little bits at a time. Finally those things are about to get done and come together which will mostly complete my interior modifications. The 4th of July weekend should be pretty exciting, pics to come.

Until then, I've been working on my Electrical Plan. I've been trying to find the best prices on various components, the right things to use, and the best way to put it together.

I think the below plan is the way I will go. Its not finished yet as I didn't feel the need to make a hundred red and black lines showing every single connection, but I think you will get the idea;

I made this on Microsoft Publisher using actual images of the components I will be using, except for the solar panel and charger controller which are just stock images until I know exactly what I will get.

 

[CloudDiver]

Some notes on the above diagram;
- I'd like to use two Trojan T105 6V in series, 250 amp hours. They might not fit anyway in which case I can go with a single or dual/parallel group 27 Interstate Marine Deep Cycle. I'm putting them into the more aft compartment under the V-Berth on a custom tray. Like others I'm trying to move some weight forward and this will be significant.
- The logic behind using one 4 gang panel with breakers and then a 6 gang panel with fuses; simple, smaller is cheaper. All of the lighting will be LED so it will pull minimal amps. They will all share the same breaker but I need to be able to switch the anchor, steaming, and foredeck lights. Most components like the auto-pilot, GPS, and VHF will come directly off the breaker circuit. The various lights and anything else needing to be switched will go to the 6 gang panel.
- I'm not sure the alternator connection from Outboard should connect at the cutoff switch, but for now that is the way I have it shown. Like the Solar Panel it may need to run straight into the battery. Ideally I will find an MPTT controller that has a connection specifically for that reason.
- I found the Dual Bus Bar fairly cheap on e-bay. I like the plastic cover, even though the bus bar will be protected behind the panel.
- Almost all of the components are Blue Sea Systems, I found good prices online for most of it and I think sticking to one quality brand is a good practice. If there are equal quality but cheaper components out there I would be willing to do more shopping since I haven't purchased anything just yet.
- I'll be making the panel board and its hinge first because that is key to finishing the interior, then probably buying the components as I need to install them. I won't wire up anything too soon and the last thing I will buy will probably be the batteries followed by the Solar stuff.
- I will incorporate an AC charger into this, probably a simple Battery Tender that can be plugged in while dockside or on the trailer, and on extended trips I will have the Honda eu2000i along for the ride.

 

[CloudDiver]

Let's blow the dust off this thread...

Boom... That just happened.

 

[CloudDiver]

So the gelcoat repairs are done... They look ok. Color is close enough that its not very noticeable. Both bulkheads were sanded and given one coat of Cetol and 3 coats of Epifanes varnish. I tried to get it as smooth as possible... not glass but it looks pretty good.
I got a kit of buffing wheels and compounds from Caswell to polish all the stainless. There are still a few light scratches the sisal wheel just couldn't get out, but overall the look pretty shiny!

 

[CloudDiver]

For the electrical panel I made a template from foam poster board;

 

[CloudDiver]

I cut the StarBoard a little big and refined the shape on my stationary sander. I still have a little clean up to do on the top edge hopefully with a small block plane (that I don't have). Right now it won't close to vertical, the right side edge is catching and I'll have to plane it to fit.
The left side fits in the curve nice but I will have to cut a bunch out to clear the aft seat-back/bulkhead panel. As it sits it now it won't clear to open when the wood panel is installed.

 

[CloudDiver]

I used a 24 inch piece of the same stainless hinge I bought to use on the cockpit seat hatch covers. I put the screws into the edge that holds the combing by modifying my small pneumatic angle grinder into a right-angle drill to do the pilot holes. I counter bored them just a bit because the gelcoat likes to break and craze when you put the screws in. Pro-tip, in thick fiberglass always use a pilot bit one size up from your screw. I used a #10 pilot drill bit and countersunk a bit for #8 screws. They will still bite and hold very tight.

The edge of the hinge that holds the Starboard is only on temporary with a few 3/16 aluminum rivets so they are easy to drill out later. I'll need to take the StarBoard off to do the final cut-outs and holes to mount all the electrical panels and components, then I will reinstall with 3/16 stainless rivets.

 

[jmczzz]

Amazing and beautifle. Good job. James

 

[philwsailz]

So the gelcoat repairs are done... They look ok. Color is close enough that its not very noticeable. Both bulkheads were sanded and given one coat of Cetol and 3 coats of Epifanes varnish. I tried to get it as smooth as possible... not glass but it looks pretty good. I got a kit of buffing wheels and compounds from Caswell to polish all the stainless. There are still a few light scratches the sisal wheel just couldn't get out, but overall the look pretty shiny! http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/luke_berger/media/image_zpseckku4gv.jpg.html

Dude! That's showboat-quality shininess.

 

[Leeward Rail]

Awesome job as usual Luke.
Especially the extra mile of polishing the chain plates.

Do you have your heart sent on that battery meter in the image ? In planning my new panel, I found one that is small, displays volts and amps simultaneously, and is inexpensive. If you want I can post a link when i'm on my laptop.

 

[CloudDiver]

I only picked that battery meter because it was Blue Sea Systems (trying to stick with one brand if possible), and I was bargain shopping on eBay. I haven't purchased anything yet, money is TIGHT this month!

Feel free to post any links to deals on good products... I'm always keen to good ideas. Getting the Panel fabricated and in put in place is important to finishing the Interior, but actually installing all of he components and wiring will probably be last on the list. I have to slowly pick and choose what I buy and when to conserve money. I only buy what I need the most to continue the job at hand, except in cases like the 40% off bulk rope sale when you just can't pass up limited time sales.

That reminds me, I've several things I need to list on eBay or Craigslist for sale to gather funds for some of the last expensive things like the headsail furler!

Awesome job as usual Luke.
Especially the extra mile of polishing the chain plates.

Do you have your heart sent on that battery meter in the image ? In planning my new panel, I found one that is small, displays volts and amps simultaneously, and is inexpensive. If you want I can post a link when i'm on my laptop.

 

[Leeward Rail]

Here ya go...

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Ampereme...9_5?&ie=UTF8&refRID=1FCN9HRCPEG3K9SKVFCH&th=1

I plan to move the battery, get a solar panel, etc. But at this point all I wanted was a functional panel/boat.
After I ripped out the unused wiring, I replaced all the fuses (and jumper wires) in the original faceplate with pushbutton breakers which I swapped from a victory products marine switch panel. The victory panel was cheaper than just the breakers.

I removed the original indicator light and plan to install this meter in that location. Since I'll be installing a battery switch, I'll also be able to repurpose the "service" switch in the original panel. I'm debating on whether I'll swap the toggle switches with mini rockers.

 

[hawk232]

I had this all typed up in a PM and decided to post it here instead since it may be helpful to others...

Luke, boat is looking good! Hopefully in the water by fall??

Just looking at your most recent updates/plans and thought I might share what I learned over several overnight trips so far.

I know you already have them finished and installed so it might be to late.... the bulkheads... depending on where you plan to sleep this may not matter. my wife and I sleep on the quarter berths (not the V). the bulkheads block ALL wind from the hatch from the berths! I can hang my head into the walkway and its like a hurricane, move it back to the birth and there is no movement at all. In time I will make new ones that are open in the center to allow airflow over the berths.

The electrical panel looks great! I know its tough trying to find somewhere to mount it, I thought on that for most of my build.... my only thoughts on yours is that my shelves get very small very quickly on an overnight trip and I often wish they were bigger. Just FWIW....

batteries... I use one group 27 deep cycle. on a recent trip (without the solar panel) of sailing most of the day, a couple hours at night and half of the next day using the autopilot and running the GPS (Garmin 740s-BIG screen= more power draw) the ENTIRE time (at night for anchor drag alarm). Also charged my phone and Bluetooth speaker. a 12v batt after 24 hr rest has 12.63v at full charge, after that trip (and 24 hr rest) I had 12.58 (empty batt at 11.9-12.0v)

On a subsequent 4 night trip I had same usage (autopilot and GPS most of the day and GPS and phone charge by night). With my renogy 50w solar panel (and after 24hr rest with solar panel disconnected) I had 12.63v.

I am just wondering if the 2 Trojans might be ALOT of extra weight that you wont need??

 

[jmczzz]

Hawk, Now that is good reality based info... May I interupt to ask the implications / reasoning for the 24 hr rest period for the battery? Thanks, James

 

[CloudDiver]

Hawk, Thanks man, that's very good 'real world' data. I think I will build the tray large enough to be able to hold the two Trojan T105's, but for now I will only buy just one Interstate Deep Cycle Group 27. I could always upgrade in the future but I seriously doubt I will need to. That's $125 less I will need to spend on batteries, plus I should be fine with a 50W solar panel vice a 100W panel.

I had this all typed up in a PM and decided to post it here instead since it may be helpful to others...

Luke, boat is looking good! Hopefully in the water by fall??

Just looking at your most recent updates/plans and thought I might share what I learned over several overnight trips so far.

I know you already have them finished and installed so it might be to late.... the bulkheads... depending on where you plan to sleep this may not matter. my wife and I sleep on the quarter berths (not the V). the bulkheads block ALL wind from the hatch from the berths! I can hang my head into the walkway and its like a hurricane, move it back to the birth and there is no movement at all. In time I will make new ones that are open in the center to allow airflow over the berths.

The electrical panel looks great! I know its tough trying to find somewhere to mount it, I thought on that for most of my build.... my only thoughts on yours is that my shelves get very small very quickly on an overnight trip and I often wish they were bigger. Just FWIW....

batteries... I use one group 27 deep cycle. on a recent trip (without the solar panel) of sailing most of the day, a couple hours at night and half of the next day using the autopilot and running the GPS (Garmin 740s-BIG screen= more power draw) the ENTIRE time (at night for anchor drag alarm). Also charged my phone and Bluetooth speaker. a 12v batt after 24 hr rest has 12.63v at full charge, after that trip (and 24 hr rest) I had 12.58 (empty batt at 11.9-12.0v)

On a subsequent 4 night trip I had same usage (autopilot and GPS most of the day and GPS and phone charge by night). With my renogy 50w solar panel (and after 24hr rest with solar panel disconnected) I had 12.63v.

I am just wondering if the 2 Trojans might be ALOT of extra weight that you wont need??