Repairing Hunter 40 damage from Hurricane Matthew

May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Odds & ends, tips & tricks:

As I am working my way around the cabin, the list of things remaining, while still lengthy, is decreasing day by day as I whittle away at the small tasks between the big ones. One thing I finally got done was dealing with the door handles. this took up way too much of my precious time! I salvaged the old (original) Perko door handles - but - I have never really been happy with them. They are the style with a normal handle on one side and a twist/pull ring on the other. I know they are that way for a reason - to keep from snagging clothing and/or body parts as you pass by the open door. I don't think they ever actually saved any of my clothing or body parts; I do remember them rattling an awful lot, though! To me, it seems like a solution for a rarely, or barely, or non-existent problem.

My salvaged handles presented me with two additional problems: they were all pretty pitted and corroded and would not clean up well, and a few needed some replacement parts. Big but coming - Perko sells these same handles new, but they don't sell replacement parts for them. Bummer :(. I thought I could replace the ring pulls with a handle that matched the opposite side, but no joy there. The only viable way was to buy new latches and replace the new ring pulls with my old handles. At ~$95 - each! And I need 4 of them. Time for Plan B: my new online hardware best friend didn't have anything I liked but I did eventually find these:



The handles are some oddball Chinese brand, made from some type of unidentifiable material, may or may not last a full season, but they were the best bang for the buck for a non-mortised semi-low profile door latch. They were marketed for RVs, so I do have that going for me! :biggrin:

Not too hard to install and adjust:



And they are currently doing the job I hired them for - keeping the doors closed! (Edit: I had not yet cut in the door striker in this photo)

Now for a tip: As all you guys know, sawing plywood cross-grain just about always will create tear-out at the cut edge (on the up-stroke blade side). Up to now, I had never found a solution to this, other than trying to cut the piece so that the tear-out is hidden on the inside, or is covered with a trim piece. Well, I found a solution! While I was cutting and fitting the fiddles for the aft bunk I was at a point where I needed to permanently mount the bunk planks, but I wanted to cut in some hatches for storage first. Problem: I had already coated and finished the plank, and there was no way to prevent tearing up the finish at the edges of the openings.

Light bulb on! I scribed into the plank at the cut lines with my oscillating saw:



You don't have to go deep - just enough to get through the top lamination. Then plunge cut the corners and get the rest of the cut with the jig saw. Presto, no tear-out!



I just wish I had thought of it years ago!

Finally, some cathartic action. I've been bouncing around the boat doing electrical work at times, recently lots of AC wiring and connections. My electrical "tool box" had reached a point of embarrassment, so I took an afternoon, turned up the music, rocked gently with the waves, and did this:



Amazingly satisfying!

Next up, fiddles (I promise!)

Cheers,

Mark
 

CYQK

.
Sep 11, 2009
580
beneteau first 42 kenora
Take all those crimp connectors and be rid of them.
Use heat shrink crimp connectors instead!!!!
 
May 1, 2011
4,284
Pearson 37 Lusby MD
An oscillating tool is a multi-function, easy-to-use power tool used for quick and accurate work of jobs traditionally done by hand. The multi-tool was developed more than 20 years ago and was originally marketed as a hobby tool, but now it can do so many things. As the name suggests, the multi-tool can sand, cut, carve, polish, sculpt, scrape, and grind almost anything when fitted with various attachments, although it’s ideally used as a detail sander. It is a newer type of tool that generates tens of thousands of oscillations per minute with its vibrating head rotating back and forth 3 degrees, using a variable speed controller making it one of the safest power tools available.
 
  • Helpful
Likes: Will Gilmore
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Take all those crimp connectors and be rid of them.
Use heat shrink crimp connectors instead!!!!
I use these instead of heat shrink connectors because I prefer longer heat shrink "tails" on the wire. Might not make any difference but I think I might be getting a little better protection that way. Or maybe not. I do heat shrink every connector, btw :).

I do wonder too, with the pre-fab connectors, if it's possible to damage the heat shrink with the crimping tool before heating. If so, that would negate the protection of the heat shrink. I have never tested that theory so I might be totally wrong :yikes:.
 
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
What did you use to get a straight line with your oscillating tool?
I just eyeballed it, kept the tool on low and followed the line. After finishing with the jigsaw I hit the edges with the block sander to clean & straighten them.

It also helps to down a few rum & cokes first to steady the hand :biggrin:
 
Oct 19, 2017
7,757
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
I couldn't keep going for another 1 hour, 22 minutes and 6 seconds for their conclusion, though :biggrin:.
So sorry. I watched just long enough to get a sense of the tool, then shared it. I picked it because I thought the time was in minutes and seconds, not hours and minutes. It seemed the shortest video. I'll try to pay more attention next time.
:redface:

-Will
 
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
As promised, Fiddles!:

Time to add a touch of "finished" to the cabin. Fiddles not only serve a useful function, they add a finishing touch to the cabinetry. First up was measuring and fitting for the aft bunk:



No real drama here, the fiddles are cut from 3/4" red oak with a notch cut in the lower corner to fit to the edge of the planks, then I hit the upper sides with a roundover bit. Same technique for the rest, starting with the port-side cabinets:



And the starboard side - missed a pic of that. Next up was both the forward and aft head. These were cut from 1/2" stock:



The nice thing here is that I can start with longer pieces of wood, cut the notches and slice off the length I need. It cut down the fabrication time :). Aft head fitting:



And forward head:



The trim in the corners will be glued in with LifeSeal clear, whereas the rest will be screwed to the counter edges.

Now, after all that fun, I disassembled (and labeled!) everything and set the garage/workshop up for Round 78 of clearcoat. I did the doors too:



When this is all finished, dry then reinstalled it should really make the cabin pop!

Next up, another interior milestone.

Cheers,

Mark
 
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Clearcoat Round 78 complete, time for reassembly:

That was a lot of urethane! First up, getting the doors back on:



I'm liking it! Both heads done:



Port-side aft cabin fiddles back on:





And starboard-side aft cabin:





Up next, a few other tasks in the aft cabin.

Cheers,

Mark
 
Apr 5, 2009
2,826
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
Very nice. That looks like a satin finish which I think looks so much better than a high gloss.
 
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Very nice. That looks like a satin finish which I think looks so much better than a high gloss.
I've never been a fan of the high gloss finishes on interiors either. I probably mentioned this - about 30 pages ago :) - but I did a bunch of test panels before coming up with the finish I liked. I finally settled on mixing the Minwax satin and semi-gloss in equal parts.. The semi-gloss was still too glossy and the satin was too satiny :biggrin:.
 
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Likes: smokey73
Oct 19, 2017
7,757
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
I am a fan of the basic oil finish. Tung oil, boiled linseed oil, French polish. I use poly because it's easy, but I recently redid my maple countertops from poly to tung oil and they look fantastic.

-Will
 
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Likes: nightowle
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Checked a few more tasks off the list:

I figured that since I had the clear-coat factory up and running I might as well finish all the remaining parts & pieces:



I still need to brainstorm the trim for the bookcase, and an "article retention" method for items to be placed in the bookcase, but that's for a later date.

I had been mulling over our eventual bedding solution for quite some time. I really really don't like sleeping on foam. I mean I really, really, don't like it. Pain from a few sports injuries in my collegiate days move from the back of my consciousness right to front-n-center if I sleep on a bad mattress. When I first bought the boat I solved that problem by replacing the foam mattress with an air mattress. Works good, lasts a long time, though I would have to replace the air mattress every couple of years.

Not a problem until recently when the admiral and I have diverged on our mattress firmness preferences :yikes:. How to resolve that?



This is the redneck version of a sleep-number bed! I found that 2 double mattresses fit perfectly on a queen platform. Voila! We have individually controllable mattresses (already tested it out and it does work!).

Next up I put this:



To good use. Stay tuned!

Cheers,

Mark
 
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Likes: Will Gilmore
Jun 25, 2004
475
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
Mark,

I've been enjoying and learning from your pictures for some time now (at least a couple of years). I have to ask: how close are you to being able to go out for a sail, or an overnight? If you've already said and I missed it, sorry!