Only that it traps small spaces of air from moving to slow heat exchange. It should be enough to stop condensation.
It has the added benefit of being structurally stiff to strengthen the rigidity of the cabin top.
-Will
Repairing Hunter 40 damage from Hurricane Matthew
- Thread starter B757Captain
- Start date
It has the added benefit of being structurally stiff to strengthen the rigidity of the cabin top.
-Will
Thanks, guys. I didn't really intend to fish for complements: more to make a comment on the practical, down-to-earth esthetic. Repairs/refits that look well done, but practical have a lot of appeal, I think. Carry on!Welcome aboard Jay,
I don't see where you talked yourself into any corner at all, and I fully understand the spirit you intend and thanks for it!
...
The honeycomb doesn't look to me like it will offer much insulation, and I don't need any additional strength for the top. Plus I still would have to come up with some kind of outer cover over it.
Will look up Reflexite.
I had been looking at this:
XCEL Marine Foam Roll, Neoprene Sponge Rubber Insulation Size 60
If they made these sheets in 3/4" I think they would fit the bill perfectly. Still hunting.
I didn't see a 3/4" thickness, but they do also have 1/4", so I guess you could stack them. Oddly, they are not sold in the same size sheets (rolls). So, you know where you might be spending the time and energy you previously saved on the soles.
And now, back to our regularly scheduled programming:
As I continue my research on the insulation issue (or any other ideas from you guys) we can revisit that, but for now, back to work!
For some reason - which I will admit is weirdly pleasing - Youtube guys make a big deal about Unboxing. You know, videoing the actual opening of a newly delivered box and revealing the goodies inside. Well, there's no way those losers can upstage me! So, in the spirit of (insert spirit name here), let's unbox something:
And partial contents:
This came from a place called The Hardware Hut. I found them during a thorough interwebs search for various cabinet hardware and they carry a few gems that fit the bill perfectly. One being these drawer latches. I needed to replace the ones I had (which I believe were from Perko) because they had suffered too greatly from (first) being immersed in salt water, then (second) stored without care for several years. I balked at the usual marine store prices for replacements - around $40 apiece - until I found these. frankly, the ones from Hardware Hut seem to be much better quality and construction and as a bonus are only ~$20 each! Score! So I expanded the potential areas of use for the latches and went to town (so to speak):
Not only drawers but they work fantastically as cupboard door fasteners!
Another gem found was a better variant of the push button latch. Normally I run very fast from the version available to us through the various marine store outlets since I don't like picking my stuff off the floor after the first tack, but the version I found at THH has a large, beefy positive latch (instead of the usual tiny 98 lb. weakling latch). I might have a pic of one of those but can't find it right now. Needless to say, I made a substantial order and now have not only all the latches I need to finish things but a few extras - just in case. As a bonus the folks at THH are great to deal with. And no, they are not sponsoring this post!
With all the port-side aft cabinetry finish looking pretty, time to reassemble everything. First, though, some final plumbing, starting with installing the last (2 of 2) aft water tank:
Several frantic minutes of digging through my fittings only to discover that the one I needed to finish up was, in fact, one I did not have, and a quick trip to the hardware store, it was all plumbed in and I could fit the cabinet surrounding it:
And finish with the rest of the port side:
Up next, doors!
Cheers,
Mark
As I continue my research on the insulation issue (or any other ideas from you guys) we can revisit that, but for now, back to work!
For some reason - which I will admit is weirdly pleasing - Youtube guys make a big deal about Unboxing. You know, videoing the actual opening of a newly delivered box and revealing the goodies inside. Well, there's no way those losers can upstage me
! So, in the spirit of (insert spirit name here), let's unbox something:
And partial contents:
This came from a place called The Hardware Hut. I found them during a thorough interwebs search for various cabinet hardware and they carry a few gems that fit the bill perfectly. One being these drawer latches. I needed to replace the ones I had (which I believe were from Perko) because they had suffered too greatly from (first) being immersed in salt water, then (second) stored without care for several years. I balked at the usual marine store prices for replacements - around $40 apiece
- until I found these. frankly, the ones from Hardware Hut seem to be much better quality and construction and as a bonus are only ~$20 each! Score! So I expanded the potential areas of use for the latches and went to town (so to speak):
Not only drawers but they work fantastically as cupboard door fasteners!
Another gem found was a better variant of the push button latch. Normally I run very fast from the version available to us through the various marine store outlets since I don't like picking my stuff off the floor after the first tack
, but the version I found at THH has a large, beefy positive latch (instead of the usual tiny 98 lb. weakling latch). I might have a pic of one of those but can't find it right now. Needless to say, I made a substantial order and now have not only all the latches I need to finish things but a few extras - just in case. As a bonus the folks at THH are great to deal with. And no, they are not sponsoring this post!With all the port-side aft cabinetry finish looking pretty, time to reassemble everything. First, though, some final plumbing, starting with installing the last (2 of 2) aft water tank:
Several frantic minutes of digging through my fittings only to discover that the one I needed to finish up was, in fact, one I did not have
, and a quick trip to the hardware store, it was all plumbed in and I could fit the cabinet surrounding it:
And finish with the rest of the port side:
Up next, doors!
Cheers,
Mark
Last edited:
Doors!:
I had been saving a few full sheets of 3/4" okumi for the doors and finally decided that making and installing the doors wouldn't interfere (too much) with the need for access to various spots on the boat. Plus by using up these sheets I could get a much better idea of just whether my dwindling supply of ply was going to be enough to finish the interior.
First task was to do a little re-design (familiar story here!). My main focus was the interface between the tops of the doors and the cabin top. The factory just made rectangular doors so the top edge of the door had a substantial gap to the cabin top. Seems that the deck curvature makes closing this gap rather difficult, since the doors open into a decreasing arc - i.e., if the door is hinged to open outboard, the inboard edge will be too tall as the deck height decreases through the swing arc.
I pondered this for quite a while, brainstorming a series of options including changing the hinge side to make inward-opening doors, bi-fold doors, etc. In the end, none really were better options so I stuck with the original hinging for all the doors. Still have the excessive (to me) gap to overcome though. So after a bunch of measuring to find out just how tall I could make each door and still clear everything through the arc I fabbed up these:
This one is the entry from the main cabin to the v-berth, and here is the starboard aft cabin entryway:
Nothing fancy, and though I'm sure there is a formal name for these pieces (that escapes me) these "closeout panels" will fill the gap from the top edge of the door to the cabin top when the door is closed. I made the arc to spice things up a bit and complicate things when actually constructing the doors . Had to make five total for four doors - aft cabin starboard, aft cabin port - which is also the aft head entry, aft head forward to the main cabin, and the forward door to the v-berth does double duty as the door for the forward head.
Next up, actually cutting and fitting the doors. No big surprises here, though I finally broke down and bought a tongue-and-groove router bit. Ho boy! That thing spits out more shavings than any other bit I have ever used! Piles n piles, mounds to clean up after running all the parts and pieces through the router. Here's the finished product:
Since the hinges and latches are all non-mortice, mounting was pretty straight-forward. A few passes with the planer fixed some tight gaps, now I'm waiting for a shipment of latches to finish the doors before removing them (and the trim, and the closeout panels) for clear-coating. As a side note, I can already feel a difference old vs. new doors. The original doors were made from 1/4' ply panels set into 3/4" frames. I made all the doors from 3/4" ply and frames. they are a bit heavier but make a big difference in the sound quality - they give the interior a more solid "feel".
Another package arrived:
Got it mounted:
Now I just have to figure out how to wire it up!
Next up, more finish work.
Cheers,
Mark
I had been saving a few full sheets of 3/4" okumi for the doors and finally decided that making and installing the doors wouldn't interfere (too much) with the need for access to various spots on the boat. Plus by using up these sheets I could get a much better idea of just whether my dwindling supply of ply was going to be enough to finish the interior
.First task was to do a little re-design (familiar story here!). My main focus was the interface between the tops of the doors and the cabin top. The factory just made rectangular doors so the top edge of the door had a substantial gap to the cabin top. Seems that the deck curvature makes closing this gap rather difficult, since the doors open into a decreasing arc - i.e., if the door is hinged to open outboard, the inboard edge will be too tall as the deck height decreases through the swing arc.
I pondered this for quite a while, brainstorming a series of options including changing the hinge side to make inward-opening doors, bi-fold doors, etc. In the end, none really were better options so I stuck with the original hinging for all the doors. Still have the excessive (to me) gap to overcome though. So after a bunch of measuring to find out just how tall I could make each door and still clear everything through the arc I fabbed up these:
This one is the entry from the main cabin to the v-berth, and here is the starboard aft cabin entryway:
Nothing fancy, and though I'm sure there is a formal name for these pieces (that escapes me) these "closeout panels" will fill the gap from the top edge of the door to the cabin top when the door is closed. I made the arc to spice things up a bit
and complicate things when actually constructing the doors . Had to make five total for four doors - aft cabin starboard, aft cabin port - which is also the aft head entry, aft head forward to the main cabin, and the forward door to the v-berth does double duty as the door for the forward head.Next up, actually cutting and fitting the doors. No big surprises here, though I finally broke down and bought a tongue-and-groove router bit. Ho boy! That thing spits out more shavings than any other bit I have ever used! Piles n piles, mounds to clean up after running all the parts and pieces through the router. Here's the finished product:
Since the hinges and latches are all non-mortice, mounting was pretty straight-forward. A few passes with the planer fixed some tight gaps, now I'm waiting for a shipment of latches to finish the doors before removing them (and the trim, and the closeout panels) for clear-coating. As a side note, I can already feel a difference old vs. new doors. The original doors were made from 1/4' ply panels set into 3/4" frames. I made all the doors from 3/4" ply and frames. they are a bit heavier but make a big difference in the sound quality - they give the interior a more solid "feel".
Another package arrived:
Got it mounted:
Now I just have to figure out how to wire it up!
Next up, more finish work.
Cheers,
Mark
I think that is a significant point, I hadn't thought about. When you mentioned 3/4" plywood doors at the beginning of your post, all I thought was, Why, that's so heavy when lighter construction would be both cheaper and better on a sailboat, but the feeling you have when you're inside a boat's cabin is at least as important.
They are beautiful, by the way.
-Will
Finishing the aft cabin:
Since I seem to be in a groove (of sorts) doing finish work, might as well keep at it in the aft cabin. I took the starboard side lockers apart and got all the pieces to the garage for paint and clearcoat:
And started back together with them:
Finished with hardware:
No real drama here, kept all my toes and fingers attached and intact! Still have to make fiddles for everything though. While I was at that, might as well attack the aft head:
After some paint, I got this far:
then realized I needed to rethink my head hose strategy. The solution coming soon (at the mercy of the delivery gnomes).
Cheers,
Mark
Since I seem to be in a groove (of sorts) doing finish work, might as well keep at it in the aft cabin. I took the starboard side lockers apart and got all the pieces to the garage for paint and clearcoat:
And started back together with them:
Finished with hardware:
No real drama here, kept all my toes and fingers attached and intact! Still have to make fiddles for everything though. While I was at that, might as well attack the aft head:
After some paint, I got this far:
then realized I needed to rethink my head hose strategy. The solution coming soon (at the mercy of the delivery gnomes
).Cheers,
Mark
Your project just keeps getting better and better. The projects on my Hunter 40 legend are a little less grand limited by cruising full time! I did manage to add a 19 gallon auxilary fuel tank next to the existing 40 gallon tank and I replaced and caulked all the toe rail bolts. We did get a Rain Man water maker which was great in the Bahamas this winter.
Keep up the great post and if you happen to find any dimensions on the sub-floor grid/pan I would find them helpful.
Any proposed lunch date or year yet?
Keep up the great post and if you happen to find any dimensions on the sub-floor grid/pan I would find them helpful.
Any proposed lunch date or year yet?
Wow, where did you put the fuel tank? Can you pm pics? You should post on the repairs/mods section to help the rest of us!
Love this thread, very impressive craftsmanship and cool to follow along.
Mark, Own a 40 - Question as you are there. On the aft head, it seems that the shower sump hose is tied between the aft bulkhead and the White head aft liner (where the door is attached) creating a void for the shower sump line. Hope this makes since. For some reason I am getting condinsation here or have a leaking something.. Can you verify that there is a void between the two panels
many thanks
Chris
many thanks
Chris
Thanks Crothers! Did you put the aux tank outboard of the existing tank or opposite the rudder post? I converted the old aluminum 50 gal water tank (opposite the rudder post) to an aux fuel tank - which then started leaking so I replaced it (again) with a 40 gal plastic tank. Moral of the story - aluminum tanks have a lifespan!
I did the toe rail bolts when I painted the hull and cove stripe. I lost count of how many there are
.Hmmm. A pic would help cuz I'm trying to picture which two panels you mean. the shower sump drain line runs in the empty void made by the transverse beam and only the aft head bulkhead mounts there. First place I would look would be the thru-hull for the sump discharge. Second would be the sump drain line itself - if it's old it could be cracked and leaking.
New head hose I will recommend highly:
One thing I have been dreading is plumbing the head(s). We've all been there - trying to wrestle that ungodly stiff hose onto the hose barbs, burning hands (and other parts) with the heat gun trying to force the hose around bends, etc. I made this nasty little task a bit more nastier by relocating the seacocks way back when and, while I had an idea of where everything would have to go, until all is in place you just don't know for sure how it's all going to work. Most of the hose went in place without too much cursing but the main discharge hose from the head to the Y-valve and the hose from the Y-valve to the holding tank - disagreed with my plan.
After an unsuccessful trip to the local WM - where they were just plain out of possible hose alternatives, a search of the interwebs and a quick order from Defender netted me this:
Raritan has gotten into the hose business! And their hose beats the old Shields hose hands down. I will (over time) be replacing all the existing (new) Shields hose. the days of heat guns are over. The pic doesn't show it - since I had not yet installed the holding tank - but the upper hose makes a bend that would have flat been impossible with any other hose. The lower one does too just not as severe.
With the hoses in place I moved on with reassembly of the head:
The doors are in the paint shop but I did get all the rest of the plumbing (fresh and foul) completed, electrical hooked up and started testing everything. Note to self (and you guys too) if your toilets have been sitting in the attic for 5 years plan on the valves being a bit sticky and the little flappy things being gummed up! After fixing that I'm happy to report that all is well - water flow-wise .
With the paint shop temporarily empty I could move on to some finger-chomping - other-wise known as woodworking. Nope, no fingers injured this time but I did get all the remaining fiddles cut. Pics of that next installment. I'll leave you with a final pic:
I picked up this sign years ago as a joke but got a final bit of good use out of it - there are a few places around the grid/liner where either me or the factory cut access holes - and for some reason or another I didn't glass over them. I cut disks out of the sign and glued them over the holes - the plastic is pretty much perfect for this.
Cheers,
Mark
One thing I have been dreading is plumbing the head(s). We've all been there - trying to wrestle that ungodly stiff hose onto the hose barbs, burning hands (and other parts
) with the heat gun trying to force the hose around bends, etc. I made this nasty little task a bit more nastier by relocating the seacocks way back when and, while I had an idea of where everything would have to go, until all is in place you just don't know for sure how it's all going to work. Most of the hose went in place without too much cursing but the main discharge hose from the head to the Y-valve and the hose from the Y-valve to the holding tank - disagreed with my plan.After an unsuccessful trip to the local WM - where they were just plain out of possible hose alternatives, a search of the interwebs and a quick order from Defender netted me this:
Raritan has gotten into the hose business! And their hose beats the old Shields hose hands down. I will (over time) be replacing all the existing (new) Shields hose. the days of heat guns are over
. The pic doesn't show it - since I had not yet installed the holding tank - but the upper hose makes a bend that would have flat been impossible with any other hose. The lower one does too just not as severe.With the hoses in place I moved on with reassembly of the head:
The doors are in the paint shop but I did get all the rest of the plumbing (fresh and foul) completed, electrical hooked up and started testing everything. Note to self (and you guys too
) if your toilets have been sitting in the attic for 5 years plan on the valves being a bit sticky and the little flappy things being gummed up! After fixing that I'm happy to report that all is well - water flow-wise .With the paint shop temporarily empty I could move on to some finger-chomping - other-wise known as woodworking. Nope, no fingers injured this time but I did get all the remaining fiddles cut. Pics of that next installment. I'll leave you with a final pic:
I picked up this sign years ago as a joke but got a final bit of good use out of it - there are a few places around the grid/liner where either me or the factory cut access holes - and for some reason or another I didn't glass over them. I cut disks out of the sign and glued them over the holes - the plastic is pretty much perfect for this
.Cheers,
Mark
I used the Sani/flex based on our Head-mistresses recommendation and it is so much easier to fit.
Here is the 19 gallon Mueller fuel tank mounted at the back of the boat, the factory 40 gallon metal tank is on the port side. I mounted the tank to pressure treated sleepers mounted in West epoxy. I put both the new deck fill and I relocated the existing fill onto the gunnel above the tanks. I didn't like the factory deck fill as it was in a wet area and hard to reach plus I couldn't reach the hose to replace it. I wanted a bigger tank but the charger/inverter takes up a lot of room, you can see it on the left of the new tank.
I like what you did with the deck fills for the fuel tanks! Genius
I might be copying you on that since I have the same complaint about the location of the fuel fillers. I'm also going to be relocating the aft cleats to the toe rail from the cockpit siding. That should clean up the aft deck area nicely.My boat had a (factory?) configuration of the 40 gallon fuel tank located starboard of the rudder post and a 50-ish gallon water tank to port. Not much space remaining and with both tanks in place the area left over was/is essentially inaccessible. Looks like you found a good use for that spot
.