Need help, 87 H23 with Francespar mast

P100D

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Jul 24, 2016
129
Hunter 23 Nashville TN Percy Priest lake
Well I have a problem...looks like my mast may have been cut. I'm measuring an 1" shorter. Does anyone know about shimming a mast?
Ah ha I was right. Doing the dance. Cha Cha Cha. Aluminum plate. Hard plastic block. Or just shorten the Rigging.
 

P100D

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Jul 24, 2016
129
Hunter 23 Nashville TN Percy Priest lake
Google HDPE high density polyethylene. All kinds of manufacturers. Or those hard plastic cutting boards most are HDPE. Make sure you cut it so it can't slip or vibrate out. That would suck.
 

P100D

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Jul 24, 2016
129
Hunter 23 Nashville TN Percy Priest lake
Will always be a wear point that you will need to keep your eye on but I would think it would last a few years. And cheap
 
Jul 31, 2018
46
Hunter 260 Chapin
Google HDPE high density polyethylene. All kinds of manufacturers. Or those hard plastic cutting boards most are HDPE. Make sure you cut it so it can't slip or vibrate out. That would suck.
So should I pull up the step and shim between the step and deck or try the easy way and just shim between the mast and step. My worries on the latter are the screws on the step are not flush.
 

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P100D

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Jul 24, 2016
129
Hunter 23 Nashville TN Percy Priest lake
I would do between the mast and step and sand/drill a relief where the screws are so it sits flush. But both would work fine. The rigging transfers the sailing forces the base just holds the mast.
 
Jul 31, 2018
46
Hunter 260 Chapin
Google HDPE high density polyethylene. All kinds of manufacturers. Or those hard plastic cutting boards most are HDPE. Make sure you cut it so it can't slip or vibrate out. That would suck.
From what I am reading, hdpe may not be strong enough. It's weaker than wood of the same thickness.
 

P100D

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Jul 24, 2016
129
Hunter 23 Nashville TN Percy Priest lake
So much to choose from now days. You'll find what satisfies you. Like me I'll have 10 hrs reading and researching then finally pick something. A good coated hardwood would last a long time as well. Could even plate the wood with aluminum. The possibilities are endless. Could stack quarters too 1 from each state. Lol just kidding.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
Interesting. If it were me, I'd shim between the tabernacle and the plate under it, or maybe between the plate and the deck. If the mast extrusion is an open tube the the edge will tend to dig in to the shim (OK I suppose if the shim is metal). While the foot isn't doing too much to keep he mast from sliding around there is a lot of compression on it from the stays. Plus, the way the bolt that lets your mast pivot looks, I am not sure I'd want the mast to not sit at the bottom of the foot (or tabernacle, whatever that exactly is called). That may affect the pivot behavior as you step/unstep.
Maybe hardwood or exterior grade (higher quality) plywood? If you want to get serious, coat it with epoxy or even a layer of thin glass cloth. Or get some aluminum plate in whatever thickness you can and cut it into rectangles and stack it.
 
Jul 31, 2018
46
Hunter 260 Chapin
Interesting. If it were me, I'd shim between the tabernacle and the plate under it, or maybe between the plate and the deck. If the mast extrusion is an open tube the the edge will tend to dig in to the shim (OK I suppose if the shim is metal). While the foot isn't doing too much to keep he mast from sliding around there is a lot of compression on it from the stays. Plus, the way the bolt that lets your mast pivot looks, I am not sure I'd want the mast to not sit at the bottom of the foot (or tabernacle, whatever that exactly is called). That may affect the pivot behavior as you step/unstep.
Maybe hardwood or exterior grade (higher quality) plywood? If you want to get serious, coat it with epoxy or even a layer of thin glass cloth. Or get some aluminum plate in whatever thickness you can and cut it into rectangles and stack it.
I had many of your same thoughts. I'm afraid of removing the step because it doesn't leak at the moment and it looks like the PO used some wild assortmant of bolts and one is a flat head that looks like it may strip. So I'm a little hesitant to remove it entirely. This has became an pain in ___. I am looking at either getting some aluminum cut or going with oak with epoxy sealant. The oak I could cut my self, make recesses for the bolts and easily replace every year or two, but I don't know how it will be under that much pressure.
 

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Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I can't recall on my 23 if the bolts that hold the step down are in a metal plate (tapped) or through into the cabin. If the latter, that should not be a big deal to remove, and worst case you grind the heads or nuts off if really stuck. Assuming you can get a helper, of course :). There is probably that furry ceiling cover to worry about though. Sealing it to not leak isn't a big deal - I'd use the marine butyl tape that you can get from MaineSail (you'll probably want it as you do other jobs in future) or a good sealant like the BoatLife caulk.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I forgot to add... If you do remove the plate, I'd look at the holes through the deck and if there is a good layer of glass (say, above a metal embedded plate) countersink a groove into the surface. maybe even drill out the glass to a larger hole size and fill with epoxy to pot it. I like to create that sealing groove with a countersink bit, but run the drill in reverse - if you do it forward and have even a decently sharp bit, it tends to dig deep quickly. By using reverse it shaves down the epoxy much more controllably. Then you can use a bead of butyl or caulk and it will fill that groove/void around the screw shaft.
 
Jul 31, 2018
46
Hunter 260 Chapin
Now I'm wondering if I should just get rigging that's an inch shorter.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
Well, try using the jib halyard (or another way if there is one) to pull the mast forward a bit and see if the uppers would get tight enough. Then maybe all you need is a new forestay.
 
Jul 31, 2018
46
Hunter 260 Chapin
Well, try using the jib halyard (or another way if there is one) to pull the mast forward a bit and see if the uppers would get tight enough. Then maybe all you need is a new forestay.
I tried. Looks like it's off too much all the way around. I'm just trying to avoid the work. I guess the best thing is to shim it right the first time and not have to worry about it in the future. Trying to figure out the best way.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
That is what I'd do, as if your current standing rigging is in good shape, it'll save some bucks to not replace it, and the shim should not be that hard to do (other than dropping the mast, which is always a PITA).
 
Jul 31, 2018
46
Hunter 260 Chapin
That is what I'd do, as if your current standing rigging is in good shape, it'll save some bucks to not replace it, and the shim should not be that hard to do (other than dropping the mast, which is always a PITA).
Standing rigging is subpar filled with kinks. I've already ordered new rigging. Saving bucks isn't the big issue. Saving myself a pain in the keister is more important. Thanks
 

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