Luna, The Story of a Forgotten Catalina 30.

[Mikem]

If you are motoring rather than sailing it is a very easy day trip. I helped another C30 owner deliver his boat from Anacortes to Olympia in two days. We stopped for the night in Blakley Harbor, left there about 6:00am and arrived in Olympia before 5:00pm and much of that distance was against the current including 3.6knt in the Tac Narrows.

Remember he has the 11hp diesel so in slack water 4.8-5.1 kts is about the best he can do. The flood at the Tacoma Narrows on August 21 begins at 0818 with a max flood of 2.91 kts at 1120. If he left about 0900 he could ride a flood all the way to Olympia.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Remember he has the 11hp diesel so in slack water 4.8-5.1 kts is about the best he can do. The flood at the Tacoma Narrows on August 21 begins at 0818 with a max flood of 2.91 kts at 1120. If he left about 0900 he could ride a flood all the way to Olympia.

Yep, when at all possible, go with the flow. It is tough duty to go against the current. In case you do not have it, I suggest DeepZoom for current predections.

 

[Team118]

Great story so far! I had a 1977 C-30 for 12 years, took her completely apart and rebuilt her and your story brings back great memories. There was an old Catalina 30 members site (not sure if it still exists) that had a list of all the current 30's out there. Your story reminds me of a guy who had one of the very first models (#2 or 6 or something....) he worked in the movie industry so he had access to a lot of the tools, and machines needed for refab, plus the skill set to do it. I just can't think of the name of his boat. I think he must have moved on to something different?

I received so much help from this forum, especially with the re-wiring. I had the skills to do the work, but not the knowledge or understanding. Folks on this site took my hand and guided me through 12 years of ownership. Something I can see you will do once your project is 'finished'.

My boat didn't have the electric panel (1977) so I had to create a box over the nav table. Yours looks great! Since I spent a lot of time single handing on Lake Ontario, I added a light switch panel in the cockpit near the engine panel. This way at night I wouldn't have to go down below to turn lights on or off (no auto pilot).

Well, either way, it's been fun reading your posts. Perhaps you can place all of your pictures in your profile? That way people can go to one location and see the progress quickly. I see this thread growing and growing and there will always be new owners that would love to reference your work.

Best of luck!
Chris

 

[mikeracca]

Well… not a lot to report. Due to a sinus infection from the H E double hockey sticks place I was unable to finish the required work to get to sail to my uncles place. Next year for sure. I also got no work on Luna this weekend due to me fixing my brother’s Harley and Shadow… well the Harley is fixed, the Shadow still has a popping issue we thought was the carbs. The hard starting and rough idle was carbs, the popping I still haven’t Sussed out. I’m leaning to ignition now… oh yippy obsolete motorcycle parts!

While the weekend was a failure, I was able to get some work done tonight. My friend who used to be a cabinet maker and I were able to get new counter tops cut out and sanded, and they are ready now for laminate. I picked out a white/grey marble pattern. We had to make the aft portion of the counter in 2 pieces, but we used a biscuit joiner to hold the pieces when installed in the boat. This will make installation and future removal of these pieces much easier. I was also able to repair my cupboard and it’s now ready to go back in.

This is the last time we will see my old factory countertops. This is the piece I mentioned before that pretty much turned into powder any time it was touched or even moved.

Sorry I do Not have pics of the new countertop pieces yet, I will get some when I do the laminating. I still need to find a good faucet that will fit between my sinks.

 

[Hayden Watson]

During this weeks cruise The Galley Wench told me to start looking for a new galley faucet that has a pull-down sprayer so we are both in the same market.

 

[mikeracca]

During this weeks cruise The Galley Wench told me to start looking for a new galley faucet that has a pull-down sprayer so we are both in the same market.

I don’t want the pull down sprayer, I just want one that looks good and will reach both sinks. I spaced them apart slightly more than the originals were to accommodate the new faucet. I will be plumbing my boat with pressurized fresh water in the galley and head sink. I will use the foot pump for salt water in one side of the galley sink and for the flush of the head. I will also have the option for future hot water. Oh, there will be a shower in the cockpit as well to rinse off any salt water. I’m putting that where the original engine panel went.

 

[mikeracca]

I made it out to Luna today. I got a bit done, not a lot for the time I spent out there, but some of the time was on the phone getting insurance, and just chillin. I did a bit of electrical work, and decided to order another fuse block so I will have 12 circuits fused as well as the breakers. i don’t think I have more than 12 circuits planned at the moment anyway. I will also need a non switched fuse panel for things like the bilge pump and radio memory, I have that ready to go already.

I finally got the jib halyard replaced, and unfortunately for my grand plan, it leaves the mast on the starboard side just like the main does. I have it routed back to the cockpit, and now the starboard side has 4 lines and the port side has 2 (3 if I count the spinnaker line that in not planning on using. Im going to leave it hooked up as it passes through the mast, but I have no plans for flying a spinnaker any time soon. Well that’s about it, I’m going to work on my fuse block some tomorrow so I can mount them to the hull somewhere and give myself easy access in case of trouble.

 

[mikeracca]

I’m sitting here writing this after waking up from a long night’s sleep. I love waking up to the gentle sway of the boat, but I can’t sit here too long, I have work to do. Last night before hitting the rack, I got the fuse panel mounted where I can be easily accessed for hopefully non existent “issues”. I put it above the house bank in the chart table. It did make putting the batteries in slightly more difficult, but not too horribly bad. Today’s primary goal is to get the engine wired to the panel so that I can start it from the panel. Then if I have time start wiring the main AC so I can get charging to my batteries.

Well that’s it for now, time to get to work.

 

[Hayden Watson]

I’m sitting here writing this after waking up from a long night’s sleep. I love waking up to the gentle sway of the boat, but I can’t sit here too long, I have work to do. Last night before hitting the rack, I got the fuse panel mounted where I can be easily accessed for hopefully non existent “issues”. I put it above the house bank in the chart table. It did make putting the batteries in slightly more difficult, but not too horribly bad. Today’s primary goal is to get the engine wired to the panel so that I can start it from the panel. Then if I have time start wiring the main AC so I can get charging to my batteries.

Well that’s it for now, time to get to work.

Back in post 133 you showed a very nice Blue Sea breaker panel so I am confused about this fuse panel of which you speak. Can you edify us?

 

[mikeracca]

Back in post 133 you showed a very nice Blue Sea breaker panel so I am confused about this fuse panel of which you speak. Can you edify us?

So I have both as added protection. the power comes into the panel then through the breaker and then to a fuse and finally off to the device. I was going to use a terminal strip for the transition from the panel to the boat, then the more I was looking into the different systems, I realized I needed a larger variety of safety than just 15a breakers. So I adopted ATO fuse blocks to provide that level of safety. Now I can adjust the needs to each device.

 

[Hayden Watson]

So I have both as added protection. the power comes into the panel then through the breaker and then to a fuse and finally off to the device. I was going to use a terminal strip for the transition from the panel to the boat, then the more I was looking into the different systems, I realized I needed a larger variety of safety than just 15a breakers. So I adopted ATO fuse blocks to provide that level of safety. Now I can adjust the needs to each device.

THanks. I have done the same with four fuse blocks, but they are behind my panel.
I have one for my "constant on" (non-switched loads) which are (2) bilge pumps, refridge, freezer, radio channel memory, and hydronic boiler.
O have one connected to "accessory" with fuse drops for heating fans, accessory outlets, charging ports, smoke and CO detectors, WIFI router.
The third is connected to the 15A "Nav/Com" and has fuse drops for NMEA backbone, Chart plotter, auto pilot, and instruments. That way I can switch them all off with a single switch but still have the exact protection each calls for.
The forth one is for radio and communication.
I also have a 200A class-T fuse connected to my 560A LFP bank.

 

[mikeracca]

THanks. I have done the same with four fuse blocks, but they are behind my panel.
I have one for my "constant on" (non-switched loads) which are (2) bilge pumps, refridge, freezer, radio channel memory, and hydronic boiler.
O have one connected to "accessory" with fuse drops for heating fans, accessory outlets, charging ports, smoke and CO detectors, WIFI router.
The third is connected to the 15A "Nav/Com" and has fuse drops for NMEA backbone, Chart plotter, auto pilot, and instruments. That way I can switch them all off with a single switch but still have the exact protection each calls for.
The forth one is for radio and communication.
I also have a 200A class-T fuse connected to my 560A LFP bank.

All but 2 of my switched loads will be under the chart table, I will have to put 2 on the “always on“ fuse panel that will live behind the switch panel. I thought about putting everything behind the panel but I didn’t want to make that area too crowded.

 

[Hayden Watson]

All but 2 of my switched loads will be under the chart table, I will have to put 2 on the “always on“ fuse panel that will live behind the switch panel. I thought about putting everything behind the panel, but I didn’t want to make that area too crowded.

On my Mk2 the space under the chart table is open. I can sit at my "desk" by using the starboard side / forward end of the quarter berth. I use an Impossible Chair which makes a pretty comfortable seat. I have a 400W invertor, battery combiner, external regulator and battery charger mounted on the wall under there. Here is the current setup although everything under there is due to be replaced soon. The red diode battery combiner will be replaced with an AgroFET 200-2 combiner, and the invertor and charger will be combined into a Samlex EVO 1212 invertor charger. The regulator will be one I build.

 

[mikeracca]

On my Mk2 the space under the chart table is open. I can sit at my "desk" by using the starboard side / forward end of the quarter berth. I use an Impossible Chair which makes a pretty comfortable seat. I have a 400W invertor, battery combiner, external regulator and battery charger mounted on the wall under there. Here is the current setup although everything under there is due to be replaced soon. The red diode battery combiner will be replaced with an AgroFET 200-2 combiner, and the invertor and charger will be combined into a Samlex EVO 1212 invertor charger. The regulator will be one I build.


View attachment 207363

My chart table is also a cabinet that I’m planning on using for tools and spare engine parts, things like that. My house batteries live in there as well. I’m not planning on using an inverter, they simply use too much power and I won’t have a huge bank, at least not at the moment.

 

[mikeracca]

Countertop laminations are done! It didn’t go perfectly but close enough that you will never know unless I point it out so I’m just not gonna say anything… lol. It wasn’t hard to do, and I’m thinking This is going to look so much better than the woodgrain laminate did.

And yes for those with a sharp eye, there is a piece missing from the area behind the stove. 2 reasons it’s not attached. 1. I didn’t have enough wood to cut it out in one piece, and 2. Having it done in 2 pieces will make putting it back in the boat much easier. I will screw down the countertop in 2 additional locations to make up for building it this way. No biggie.

 

[kappykaplan]

This is going to look so much better than the woodgrain laminate did.

Agreed! Great job.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Well done. You are the first C30 owner I have seen that has removed the aft portion of the counter. Can you tell us the details of how it comes out and what you found underneath? Over the years there has been a lot of discussion about improving the icebox insulation and having attempted the same on my previous boat (C25) know that it is not really doable from below. I would love to see some photos of the top of the icebox cabinets without the counter.

 

[mikeracca]

Well done. You are the first C30 owner I have seen that has removed the aft portion of the counter. Can you tell us the details of how it comes out and what you found underneath? Over the years there has been a lot of discussion about improving the icebox insulation and having attempted the same on my previous boat (C25) know that it is not really doable from below. I would love to see some photos of the top of the icebox cabinets without the counter.

There are 4 or 5 screws in the port Lazzarette that hold the aft portion of the counter down, then a couple inside the cupboard. You will need to remove the cupboard to get the counter out. Lastly the drawers beside the ladder hold a couple more screws. Then it’s shimmy it out time. I had to loosen the trim by the ladder bulkhead to free the countertop up. I had to remove mine because of rot

I don’t have any pics of the area around the icebox with the countertop off. Frankly it wasn’t that interesting of a place for a pic, it’s pretty much the same as with the countertop on only made out of fiberglass. Access to the ice chest is about the same as before. When the drawers are out you can easily access 1 side of the icebox and with difficulty the aft side, but it’s all coated in expanding foam. You still can’t get the shelf out of the icebox either.

 

[mikeracca]

Well done. You are the first C30 owner I have seen that has removed the aft portion of the counter. Can you tell us the details of how it comes out and what you found underneath? Over the years there has been a lot of discussion about improving the icebox insulation and having attempted the same on my previous boat (C25) know that it is not really doable from below. I would love to see some photos of the top of the icebox cabinets without the counter.

I got the pics of the counter area with the countertop off for ya. Like I said, there isn’t much going on here, mainly just a fiberglass counter.

 

[mikeracca]

I went to Luna today with one goal in mind. To get the engine wired up and working off the control panel. Well i achieved this goal and a bit more. No pics, but all the wiring for the engine is done at this point minus the oil pressure sensor, which I don’t yet own. New ground cable from the bus bar to the engine, and a new positive cable for the starter made a world of difference in how well the engine turns over. I also replaced the solenoid for the glow plugs. My starter is also activated through a relay to assist in the starter solenoid getting more current for it‘s activation. All and all it went good, and everything seems to be working as it should. Next up is the AC and to finish off the DC stuff. Oh, and I will be able to put my counter back in here soon! I will get pics of the new engine wiring here soon.