Got Questions? Ask Them Here.

[So Cal Gary]

Maine Sail,
First of all, thank you for all of your valuable information. I've got a 2003 C310 that I'm about to do a packing change on the stuffing box--plan to use GFO. I'll be pulling the boat for a day or so for bottom paint, so I've got only limited time out of the water and want to be ready. I've studied your article and have just one question. You show cutting the ring(s) on a temporary shaft, and cut on a diagonal. Do you cut both ends of the ring at the same pass? Seems like if you do the ring will be too long. Perhaps it compresses or I've mis-understood. See attached diagram. Alternatively, do you cut one end at a time on the 45-deg diagonal so they are aligned on the shaft? Thanks in advance,
Gary

 

[inarathree]

Maine Sail, here is a question from the smaller boat forums.

I have a 1984 Hunter 22, with a swing keel. While the H22 is trailerable, mine sits in the salt water year round (Palm Harbor, FL, Gulf of Mexico). The keel is mounted to the boat by two brackets and four bolts that go through the hull. What is the best way to seal around the bolts? Everyone seems to have a different opinion. When I replaced my keel last October, I used the (I know) dreaded 5200 on the outside, and around the bolts/nuts on the inside. But the 5200 in the bilge came loose this summer, and was basically just a washer between the nut and floor of the bilge. For full disclosure, the bilge was getting salt water in it at the rate of a gallon or two per week. I noticed one of the bolts wasn't tightened completely, I tightened it down and no more salt water leak.

I have heard of people using compression washers between the hull and washer/nut. Someone else suggested using butyl tape between the hull and washer/nut.

What is your expert opinion?

 

[Fred Villiard]

Maine,

I'm going to install a new battery bank, at least 2 Duracell 6 volt and possiably 4 configured as one bank. the question I'm looking for a charger in the 30 to 50 amp range and everything I find so far is for 2 or more banks and several companies that I've contacted so far won't give full output to just 1 bank. Do you have any recomendations? Another question my motor is aThomhatsu 9.8 with 6 amp out put and is not regulated, I was thinking of running it thru a solar regulator to keep from over charging. I'm planning on doing the canals in NY and Canada, alot of motering.

Thank You
Fred

 

[mitiempo]

Xantrex chargers will output full amperage to one bank. Iota chargers do as well - they only have one output.

 

[Maine Sail]

Maine,

I'm going to install a new battery bank, at least 2 Duracell 6 volt and possiably 4 configured as one bank. the question I'm looking for a charger in the 30 to 50 amp range and everything I find so far is for 2 or more banks and several companies that I've contacted so far won't give full output to just 1 bank. Do you have any recomendations? Another question my motor is aThomhatsu 9.8 with 6 amp out put and is not regulated, I was thinking of running it thru a solar regulator to keep from over charging. I'm planning on doing the canals in NY and Canada, alot of motering.

Thank You
Fred

Xantrex, Iota W/IQ4 (not marine rated but good quality), Mastervolt, Sterling & Victron will all do what you want. With many brands if you only use one output the charge only sees it and sends all current there. If you don't mind longer charge times I like chargers that are "fan-less" in the marine environment. The little Xantrex 10TB is a good one and pretty reasonably priced.

Solar controllers can work with OB motors provided they are rated for the amperage the OB can put out and not of the "shunting" type. They also must be fitted with a "dump load" as PWM and even some MPPT controllers shut off and on when the batts are full and this could cause a failure in the motors charging circuit.

 

[Fred Villiard]

Thank You

Fred

 

[pcjrusso]

Maine Sail
First I would like to thank you for all the time and effort you put into helping us sailor with your knowledge.
I am doing a top side refit of a 1982 Oday 34 following your west system and butyl tape method from your web site.
I have a question about polishing machines I have seen that you like the Makita model 9227C. I have been looking at the porta cable 7424 XP because of the random orbit feature. But the slowest speed it runs is 2500. Do you think that is to fast?
Thanks
Pat
Lake Erie

 

[Maine Sail]

Maine Sail
First I would like to thank you for all the time and effort you put into helping us sailor with your knowledge.
I am doing a top side refit of a 1982 Oday 34 following your west system and butyl tape method from your web site.
I have a question about polishing machines I have seen that you like the Makita model 9227C. I have been looking at the porta cable 7424 XP because of the random orbit feature. But the slowest speed it runs is 2500. Do you think that is to fast?
Thanks
Pat
Lake Erie

The 7424 is a good tool but only for polishing gelcoat. RO's do not "cut" very well on gelcoat as it is significantly harder than automotive paint. With RO's the magic is in the fact that the don't just spin. They spin in a random oblong orbital fashion and thus can drastically minimize swirls. If working on only gelcoat an RO would not be my only tool. It is a good tool to have and use after the "cutting" or "buffing" phase but not to do the entire process.

 

[FourPoints]

Maine,

I'm going to install a new battery bank, at least 2 Duracell 6 volt and possiably 4 configured as one bank. the question I'm looking for a charger in the 30 to 50 amp range and everything I find so far is for 2 or more banks and several companies that I've contacted so far won't give full output to just 1 bank. Do you have any recomendations? Another question my motor is aThomhatsu 9.8 with 6 amp out put and is not regulated, I was thinking of running it thru a solar regulator to keep from over charging. I'm planning on doing the canals in NY and Canada, alot of motering.

Thank You
Fred

I recommend you check out some of the various projects I have done on my boat this year with the electrical (http://sailingit.com/blog/category/boat-projects/electrical), including the installation of a regulator for my Tohatsu 8hp. If you reduce your power consumption with LED lighting, a small solar panel with MPPT controller plus the outboard regulator may be all you need... Unless of course you are powering fridge / freezer or other similar power hungry equip met all the time, then it may not be such a small panel .

I haven't hooked up to shore power at all this season, and with normal consumption, making virtually no special conservation efforts even on a 4 day cruise where it was overcast and rainy half the trip, my batteries have never dropped even as low as 50% charge, using only the outboard and solar to recharge. As they sit at the dock right now, they are fully charged and ready for anything I want to do, and I pay noelectricall bills to have it that way.

 

[sailcruiser]

Hi MaineSail,

We are installing a Victron Blue IP20 15amp universal charger. It arrived with what appears to be a European plug which isn't a big problem since the plan is to hard wire the charger in. The hiccup we have is deciphering hot/neutral and ground on the board. Victron's english documentation leaves a lot to be desired and support even less so. So the question is do you have any idea which is which in the attached photo?

This is replacing an old ferro-resonant charger and naturally the goal is to do it right the first time.

Thanks,
SC

 

[sailcruiser]

Hi MaineSail,

We are installing a Victron Blue IP20 15amp universal charger. It arrived with what appears to be a European plug which isn't a big problem since the plan is to hard wire the charger in. The hiccup we have is deciphering hot/neutral and ground on the board. Victron's english documentation leaves a lot to be desired and support even less so. So the question is do you have any idea which is which in the attached photo?

This is replacing an old ferro-resonant charger and naturally the goal is to do it right the first time.

Thanks,
SC

Well after more time with Google it appears the Dutch use the following:
PE=protective earth
N=neutral
L=hot

Does this look correct?
SC

 

[Maine Sail]

Well after more time with Google it appears the Dutch use the following:
PE=protective earth
N=neutral
L=hot

Does this look correct?
SC

Yes that's correct.

L = Line or Hot
N = Neutral
PE = Earth Ground or Protective Earth Ground

 

[sailcruiser]

Thank you!

 

[Fred Villiard]

FourPoints, I checked your link out, then I remembered your post using the Brigs regulator. I happen to have two Morningstar regulators 1 12 amp & 1 25 amp, I figured on using the 12 amp one on the outboard.

I'll have all led lighting both internal and navigation, an Engle refrigerator. not figuring on using the charger much, but want to have one available if needed.

I'm looking at probally 60 to 80 watt solar, but it won't help much when I'm not on the water, when on the trailer parked it is in heavy shade.

Maine, on the AC if I have an ELCI breaker do I need GFI outlets?

Thank You

Fred

 

[Maine Sail]

FourPoints, I checked your link out, then I remembered your post using the Brigs regulator. I happen to have two Morningstar regulators 1 12 amp & 1 25 amp, I figured on using the 12 amp one on the outboard.

I'll have all led lighting both internal and navigation, an Engle refrigerator. not figuring on using the charger much, but want to have one available if needed.

I'm looking at probally 60 to 80 watt solar, but it won't help much when I'm not on the water, when on the trailer parked it is in heavy shade.

Maine, on the AC if I have an ELCI breaker do I need GFI outlets?

Thank You

Fred

The ELCI does not negate a GFCI breaker in engine spaces, galley, head etc...

 

[Fred Villiard]

Thank You, I thought so

Fred

 

[FourPoints]

I happen to have two Morningstar regulators 1 12 amp & 1 25 amp, I figured on using the 12 amp one on the outboard.

Make sure it isn't a shunted regulator, you cannot suddenly open the circuit on the rectifier or you will blow the diodes. There are not many regulators that I know of that work well with outboard charging circuits, hence part of the reason I went with a whole new unit with regulator built in (plus it was only about $30). Flex charge makes a regulator that is designed for outboard charging systems and utilizes a diversionary load, ideal if you have a hot water system, it may also work with your fridge.

 

[Bob S]

Maine,

Curious whether you got the serpentine belt/pulley system installed? If you did it before hauling what is your opinion? Is it worth it? There's a few $ in this upgrade!

I was looking at my pulleys (M25XP) and the one on the drive shaft looks like it could be a bear to get off. It has the serrated post with a nut and what looks like 3 threaded holes maybe for jacking it off? I've been studying serpentine belts in general and feel a K5 or a J6 cross section would be more than enough to drive the 90A Leece Neville alternator. (3hp needed). The problem lies in finding off the shelf pulleys. It looks like they have to be custom made at a machine shop. I'm sure you bought yours from Phil on this site. The picture is not very defined and there are no specs to see what you're getting.

This all started when I pulled the alternator to paint it. I have a lot of belt dust on it and it seems like I'm always tightening it or it squeals.

 

[Maine Sail]

Maine,

Curious whether you got the serpentine belt/pulley system installed? If you did it before hauling what is your opinion? Is it worth it? There's a few $ in this upgrade!

I was looking at my pulleys (M25XP) and the one on the drive shaft looks like it could be a bear to get off. It has the serrated post with a nut and what looks like 3 threaded holes maybe for jacking it off? I've been studying serpentine belts in general and feel a K5 or a J6 cross section would be more than enough to drive the 90A Leece Neville alternator. (3hp needed). The problem lies in finding off the shelf pulleys. It looks like they have to be custom made at a machine shop. I'm sure you bought yours from Phil on this site. The picture is not very defined and there are no specs to see what you're getting.

This all started when I pulled the alternator to paint it. I have a lot of belt dust on it and it seems like I'm always tightening it or it squeals.

You CAN drive a 90A Leece-Neville with the stock pulleys but EVERYTHING must be perfect. No rough surfaces, perfect alignment and perfect belt tension. I did not get a chance to install the Electromaax kit yet as I need to send them my refrigeration pulley. The boat just recently came out of the water and myself and a friend are shrink wrapping it right now. Perhaps today I'll get that pulley off and send it to them..

Thanks for the reminder. I do have an Electromaax job coming up soon, with serp pulleys, and will let you know how it goes.

 

[Bob S]

Maine,

Everything is lined up real good. The drive pulley looks pitted. I'm sure that it why I have so much dust. I could try a fine sandpaper to clean it but as you said

You CAN drive a 90A Leece-Neville with the stock pulleys but EVERYTHING must be perfect.

This system is pushing the limits of a 3/8 belt. The pulleys all look to be cast steel or stamped steel. After 16 years I'm not supprised to see pitting. I was thinking aluminum or stainless would be better in this environment. Stainless would just be too expensive but Aluminum should be competitive.