I under stand the statement. Not sure I understand the action. You are removing a connection too the "Negative Bus". Does this mean that the positive connection is going to be left connected while you work on the boats circuits?First, I wanted to remove the ground jumper from the negative bus to the engine. Something about needing an ambulance after doing something stupid -
We're talking about a Yanmar wiring harness - ABYC - are you kidding me! I think if you read through the thread you will many references to how undersized it is.That's great news, and thanks for the follow-up. Only thing, why a 12 to 18AWG? I think 16AWG is the smallest gauge you should have on a boat according to ABYC, except for instrument wires.
Same principle as with batteries. Remove the negative and the circuit is broken. Now I can check positive connects and if I accidentally hit the engine with a wrench I'm not becoming part of the circuit. If/when I got around to being close to a battery, That negative would then be removed. It's a matter of convenience of your work space. It's too easy - I know - to hit a wrench against the engine while working with the positives of the starter or alternator.I under stand the statement. Not sure I understand the action. You are removing a connection too the "Negative Bus". Does this mean that the positive connection is going to be left connected while you work on the boats circuits?
I have always disconnected the Negative first then I remove the positive connection. Move the wires away from the batteries. Then go to work. I make sure the power is disconnected. I don't want to accidentally make a connection to ground thus completing a circuit and sparking something, especially me.
In a pinch, if you have enough 18 gauge wire to play with, if you strip it longer and fold the stripped portion on itself four times you'll effectively have 12AWG, which you can crimp in a 12 to 12 butt connector.We're talking about a Yanmar wiring harness - ABYC - are you kidding me! I think if you read through the thread you will many references to how undersized it is.
Looking at the wire, its insulated size says 18 awg to me. I have 12 to 14/16 step downs. If it is in fact 18 awg and I can find no step down connectors, it will be a solder job.
Dave, took a quick look at a couple of pages after searching for crimp connectors. But, there were so many hits that it will take more than a quick look. I'll check them out later. Thanks for the link though.@Red_Dog I've found Waytek Wire to be a good source for wire and connectors. Sometimes you end up buying more than you need, however, the cost per unit is way way below West Marine and most of the online marine suppliers. Quality is also good.
Good point. That would be a simpler solution as I have 12 to 12's coming out my ears.In a pinch, if you have enough 18 gauge wire to play with, if you strip it longer and fold the stripped portion on itself four times you'll effectively have 12AWG, which you can crimp in a 12 to 12 butt connector.
You said it. I imagine you pretty awesome yourself out there on Lake Michigan.lake erie sailors are the best
He fixed this already, post #42.OK, new key switch; since you have no power to the idiot lights or buzzer, go back to the key switch and verify the connections. If everything OK and still no power then you have a problem in the harness or pin connectors. Do not dismiss the possibility that the harness could be fouled by chaffing because the engine started twice as harness problems usually start and run intermittently until they fail completely. It could be a compound problem with the start button wiring and some other failed connector or wiring. 1st restore power to the control panel. Do you have a light in the panel? Just to test for power. After you restore power then yo can tackle the problem of the wiring to solenoid. Time to get the hands dirty, usually the way to provide answers to all the questions.
More on this - if you're still watching this thread, and interested.I did inspect the in-line fuse that several of you mentioned. I was quite surprised at the condition it was in. Having said that, I have Blue Seas fuse holder that I will replace it with, but I want to see if a 12 awg to 18 awg step down crimp connector is available.
I had the same boat and same Yanmar 2GM20F. I suggest checking the engine ground wire, which may not be making a solid connection.Don‘t just look at the connection, take if off, clean it, reinstall tightly.
He fixed this already, post #42.