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Media added by Joe11688
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A
1975 o'day 22
will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
Oct 19, 2023
Looking forward to V-berth.
Wow.....dream home!
Sep 18, 2023
D
MacGregor 26s
Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
Aug 25, 2023
P
Marilee-Interior.jpg
This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
Jan 10, 2023
DSCN8846
CHILD LABOR
Aug 29, 2022
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Mother of all mods 003
Joe11688
May 8, 2012
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Mother of all mods 005
Joe11688
May 8, 2012
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IMG 0001
Joe11688
May 8, 2012
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IMG 0001
Joe11688
May 8, 2012
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DSC01384 This pic shows my port quarter birth compartment. I keep all my can goods, and other food items in these 2.5 gal. plastic containers. I have three compartments on each side of the boat and in order to get at the two on each side that I use the most, I need to raise the mattress on that side and hold it with my head while I take the containers out of the compartment, which gets is to be a pain in the butt. I want to recover these mattresses with new material as soon as I can find some material that I like, cheap. My latest brain storm is to cut these mattress foams in half which will make it a lot easer to move out of the way to get at each of the two compartments on both sides of the boat. I can keep them joined with Velcro, as I have omitted the mattress under the cockpit on my boat. This is an idea that I've been kicking around for a while and I think it's doable.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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DSC01385 If I cut these mattresses in half it will be easier for my wife to sew the new material. I'll have easier access to my two compartments when I need to get to my food storage containers. No more will I need to hold a long mattress up and out of the way with my head in order to get at the containers. Velcro can be used where the mattresses butt up against one another to keep them together.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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Benson Bend 001 I use this hitch quite a bit to join two lines together. It's easy to tie and untie. If I had to choose between this hitch and two connected Bowlines, I would choose this one hands down.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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DSC01174 I don't know about your boat, but my boat has one continuous rubber that starts at the stern and butts up with the other end at the stern. In the pic you can see the two ends of the rubber held in place with wood screws and cup washers. It's foolish to remove this rubber completely out of the track all the way around and by the same token you don't want to remove all the moldings at once unless you need to. My suggestion to you is to remove the rubber on one side of the boat at a time. Find the break in the moldings somewhere near the bow where they butt up against each other and just remove the rubber and moldings to that point. There may be more unused screw holes in the moldings than there were screws installed at the factory, so I would advise you to mark the screw holes that were used. That way, all the screws go back where they were before you removed them.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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IMG 0005a When this rubber is ready to be inserted back in the groove or track, it will butt up against the other end of the rubber and the screw hole should line up perfectly. For this reason, it's just easier to do one side of the boat at a time.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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IMG 0007a When I finished caulking under the molding I added a small dab of caulking to threads of each screw and inserted them into the moldings. This way, you get a double seal inside the screw hole and outside of the molding under the rubber after it's inserted. After I removed the rubber, I washed it in a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water. It made the rubber soft and pliable It also provided some lubrication to make it easir to reinsert back in the track or groove.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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IMG 0008a When you're all finished caulking that side, insert the rubber and screw with the cup washer and remove the rubber that goes around the other side of the boat and follow the same procedure. Everything should go right back in place when you get through. When I work on my boat I try to use the KISS method. If you find an easier way to do this job let me know.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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DSC01460 It's safer to shore up under the stern with crisscrossed wood blocks along with the sailboat stands just to take some of the weight. The boat also needs to be made as light as possible by removing as much gear as possible.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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DSC01461 I bought these SB-3 Sailboat Stands at Brownell's Boatyard in Mattapoisett Ma. They manufacture these stands right there at the boatyard. I've raised an O'Day 26 with these stands just the way you see them pictured, along with my hydraulic jack.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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DSC01463 I'm jacking the bow of the boat from the trailer and using a straight powerboat stand to hold the height so that I can let the jack down and move the trailer ahead by hand and reset the jack again.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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DSC01464 A tall car stand can be used in place of the powerboat stand. Once the powerboat stand is against the front of the trailer's cross member, I need to jack the boat up again and move the powerboat stand to the back side of the same or another cross member in order to move the trailer ahead a little more.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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DSC01465 It's a slow process, I know, but it's the best way I know of doing this right now. A faster way and easier way to do this would be to support the bow with a long metal eye beam supported high enough to allow the trailer to be rolled right out from under the boat. I would shore up under the keel just as soon as it's clear of the back of the trailer. Then the beam could be removed. Two of the stands can also be move toward the bow of the boat about 6' or 8' from the other two stands on the stern. The keel of this boat can take the full weight of the boat while sitting on blocks with at least two stands to keep it from tipping. Two sailboat stands can be placed temporarily under the stern of the boat to keep it from tipping. Preferably, the more stands the better. I use four sailboat stands and one powerboat stand under the bow of the boat with the keel sitting on blocks. The boat needs to be level at all times when you raise/lower the hull with stands and the jack. Five of my stands can raise my boat with no problem. Is this dangerous? You bet it is. I take every precaution when I do it.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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DSC01466As I mentioned previously, I usually shore up under the stern with blocks first just as a precaution. I don't know why I didn't do it this time.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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DSC01467She's almost free of the trailer. I yoost take my time when I do dis. You can't rush "deze tings" you know. (Just practicing my Scandinavian accent.)
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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DSC01468 This is just the initial set up on the shoring. When I get ready to raise the boat, I'll block up under the stern and bow, as close to the front of the keel as possible, and start raising the boat with the five stands. I shore up as I raise the hull.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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DSC01469 As I mentioned, these keel/centerboard O'Days can take the full weight of the boat with the keel sitting on blocks. I don't think that the Catalina sloops can do this but I may be wrong.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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DSC01472 Years ago I went out and bought some el cheapo bottom paint from "Worst Marine" that required that the surface be primed first. After getting the paint home I read the small print that said, you need to apply the primer and put the bottom coat on while the primer is sticky. "Oh great! How the heck am I going to pull this off?" The answer was easy. Just stick some 2x4s and 2x6s under the gunwales to the ground, and remove all the stands. I wish I'd have taken a picture of that but I was running against time. Consequently, about the middle of the summer my boat was moving at a crawl. I anchored in a sandy cove and dove under the boat and discovered a soft thick mat of marine growth all over the bottom of my hull. I was scraping it off in sheets. Ya know what? I could have avoided all this by getting some Super Shipbottom Ablative bottom paint and applying it to the bottom at my leisure time. You don't need a primer. It has the primer built in and it has about 62% copper content. It will go over bare Fiberglas and most bottom paints. I've been using this paint for years. One coat can get me two seasons. You can't beat that.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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IMG 0001b I get the boat in this position for checking the centerboard and pendant line Etc. I usually dig a hole under the keel so that I can let the centerboard all the way down to spot paint it.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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IMG 0005b The shackle looks OK. I found a broken cotter pin in the rigging pin of this shackle one year. I'm glad I checked it that year.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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DSC00406 As you can see in this pic, my boat had never been bottom painted. This was the first time for bottom paint. A word of caution here; Don't apply any paint to the bare hull of these boats until you clean it good with Acetone. These boats may be thirty or more years old but they still have mold release wax on them from when they were molded at the factory. Clean it all off first, then you can apply whatever you want. I like Super Shipbottom Ablative Paint myself. A couple of my friends in the YC also use it. Order it early because Ed has a tendency to be slow. He works by himself and he only makes one color a month. Call and find out what colors are available. If you only need one gallon, the mail man will deliver it. UPS gets and extra $20 for a hazardous waste handling charge. So keep that in mind.
Joe11688
Dec 27, 2012
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