IMG 0007a When I finished caulking under the molding I added a small dab of caulking to threads of each screw and inserted them into the moldings. This way, you get a double seal inside the screw hole and outside of the molding under the rubber after it's inserted. After I removed the rubber, I washed it in a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water. It made the rubber soft and pliable It also provided some lubrication to make it easir to reinsert back in the track or groove.
IMG 0008a When you're all finished caulking that side, insert the rubber and screw with the cup washer and remove the rubber that goes around the other side of the boat and follow the same procedure. Everything should go right back in place when you get through. When I work on my boat I try to use the KISS method. If you find an easier way to do this job let me know.
IMG 0007a When I finished caulking under the molding I added a small dab of caulking to threads of each screw and inserted them into the moldings. This way, you get a double seal inside the screw hole and outside of the molding under the rubber after it's inserted. After I removed the rubber, I washed it in a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water. It made the rubber soft and pliable It also provided some lubrication to make it easir to reinsert back in the track or groove.
IMG 0006a I was able to do this job by myself because Aluminum is pretty easy to handle alone. I really don't know if this holds to with Vinyl. I've heard that it can break easy. You may want to have an extra pair of hands to hold it while you're trying to remove the moldings. Also, you may need to apply heat to the putty knife to separate the caulking from the Fiberglas. After removing the molding or moldings on one side of the boat you need to clean the area well with Acetone. In the pic you can see the heads of the screws that were used to join the deck to the hull. This is what you need to apply caulking to plus the for the screws that are used for the moldings. I really doubt if water will come in from under that lip, but if you feel that you need to run a bead of caulking on it, by all means knock yourself out.
IMG 0005a When this rubber is ready to be inserted back in the groove or track, it will butt up against the other end of the rubber and the screw hole should line up perfectly. For this reason, it's just easier to do one side of the boat at a time.
DSC01174 I don't know about your boat, but my boat has one continuous rubber that starts at the stern and butts up with the other end at the stern. In the pic you can see the two ends of the rubber held in place with wood screws and cup washers. It's foolish to remove this rubber completely out of the track all the way around and by the same token you don't want to remove all the moldings at once unless you need to. My suggestion to you is to remove the rubber on one side of the boat at a time. Find the break in the moldings somewhere near the bow where they butt up against each other and just remove the rubber and moldings to that point. There may be more unused screw holes in the moldings than there were screws installed at the factory, so I would advise you to mark the screw holes that were used. That way, all the screws go back where they were before you removed them.
Joe11688

IMG 0007a When I finished caulking under the molding I added a small dab of caulking to threads of each screw and inserted them into the moldings. This way, you get a double seal inside the screw hole and outside of the molding under the rubber after it's inserted. After I removed the rubber, I washed it in a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water. It made the rubber soft and pliable It also provided some lubrication to make it easir to reinsert back in the track or groove.

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Gunwale molding caulking made easy
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