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A1975 o'day 22will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
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MacGregor 26sDas sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
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Aluminum plates 3/16" x 11-1/4" wide (at the bottom) x 18" high, cut with an electric hand jig saw in about 20 minutes. Used cut off material to make bracket for push down rod. A bolt in lower section holds a steel cable running back between plates up through pintle brackets (changed to 1/4" line above water line) to pulley under tiller, forward to self releasing clam cleat also under side of tiller.
- jenquay
- Sep 21, 2013
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I added two pieces of aluminum 29" long to each side of the tiller (extending 17" aft of the rudder). They are ground to a very snug fit into the brackets holding the tiller to the rudder. A line runs from the push down rod bracket upwards between 2 bolts with PVC spacers at the end of the aluminum, forward to a small cleat on the tiller. To raise the rudder, simply lift the tiller handle, pull the line taught & hold it over the cleat, push down tiller handle and the rudder pops right up. Also the system holds the rudder up while traveling.
- jenquay
- Sep 21, 2013
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All around I did peel off the the vinyl liner from the overhead liner, as I had to clean out all the mouse detritus. But I also cut access for the stanchion bolts/nuts, as well as wiring at various points. I cut luan plywood to fit the curves and attached with white nylon bolts, machine thread, tapped into the overhead glass. It is now easy to access wiring or stanchion blots.
- Golden Road
- Sep 16, 2013
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