O'day 39 project boat

[jibes138]

Panta,
You can boil water on the stove in a pot then just dunk the ends of the hose in the hot water. It doesn't have to be boiling just real hot. Water retains a lot of heat energy for a long time. I have done this several times and it softens the hose right up and it slides right on the babs without problem. When it cools it shrinks on and you pretty much have to cut it to get it off.

 

[Panta Rei]

Holding tank install finished

Jibes, where were you and Denise030 the other day? Your suggestion is spot on. The instructions said exactly that but a quick check at the local hardware store and Vincent St. Paul's , the local thrift store, found nothing like an old percolator coffee pot or similar to heat water. I guess heating devices have been replaced by microwaves.
The hose remains very stiff as it is heated, right up to the point when it quickly becomes soft and looses all stiffness. When it is soft, it can easy be kinked. Soaking only the end would prevent this.

Pictures attached show the vent filter precariously close to the forward holding tank with just and inch or two rise. Very dangerous!! but my other choice was in a locker where I want as much storage as possible. This holding tank services the forward head which is in the forward cabin. Only Susan and I will be using it so we can keep a close eye on the level. The aft head will have the filter a few feet over above the tank and will have a line bypassing the filter that will have a water trap to keep gasses from escaping but let waist go out a thru hull if the tank overflows.

One photo shows the v birth floor back in place. I will finish it when I test the system.
The teak is stripped of all finish and oil.

 

[Panta Rei]

I just received the April addition of Practical Sailor. They tested sanitation hose so I was a bit worried as I turned to the artricle. Sure enough Sealand's Odorsafe was rated very high with no permeation. Their tests show it's the stiffest hose out there. Nearly as stiff as PVC pipe. Anyway that project is over. On to bottom blasting...
We will be blasting the bottom with Soda Saturday. The shop is hooking up the 80 hp compressor. We will blast the keel with Crushed glass. We scraped the hull down as far as possible in a few spots. It looks like the original owner coated the hull with Coal tar epoxy. With luck, the hull could be in perfect condition and our project over in an hour or so. If we find blisters it will be months long.

 

[DeniseO30]

Looking at your pics, I'm always amazed how much alike all the Odays are regardless of size.

Do you feel, cutting the tops off the bunks and using plywood for full access, compromised any structure?

I see you have Keel bolts too. Mine doesn't. 82 had an encapsulated keel.

 

[Panta Rei]

O'days (LRG & SM) share many features. So do the owners

Looking at your pics, I'm always amazed how much alike all the Odays are regardless of size.

Do you feel, cutting the tops off the bunks and using plywood for full access, compromised any structure?

I see you have Keel bolts too. Mine doesn't. 82 had an encapsulated keel.

Yes, O'day did everything they could to take advantage of scale and to fully utilize tried and true features of other models.
I have noticed that they experimented a great deal with keel attachment. I know a fellow 39 owner that has a deep sump and keel attachment point. Very different from what you see in my photo.
The settees have not been modified. All settee's come standard with plywood removable plywood tops for storage. The V- birth has two small openings. The starboard side holding tank is in the standard (stock) location. It's just been maximized from 15 to 20 gallons.
The V-birth was cut out for the tank installation. The v-birth has been stiffened quite a bit by bonding in a 2X4 across the aft edge (aftwartship) . There is a reinforcement running for and aft that was cut. I will repair this by splicing in a piece of hard wood. Then do some cosmetic touch up.
I was surprised how similar the O'day boats are when I visited Joe of 25yearslater. I noticed that that his boat's (OD 27) main salon looks very similar to the O'day 37 I first learned to sail on.
The unique items I have noticed on my 39 is the Jeanneau non-skid pattern on deck. My rig on the 39 is a Goiot while the rig on my O'day 23 might have been an O'day design. You all may know better.
Talking about modification: I cut my O'day 23 up a lot. Removed settees to add a galley. Extended the forward V-birth. Raised the cockpit and removed the flotation from under it so I could add a quarter birth for a storage,kids, or our dog. The thickness of the laminates on the 39 made a strong statement to me (DON"T MESS WITH US!!!)
I'll take more pictures of detail before I close it all up.
Tomorrow we blast the bottom!!!!

 

[Panta Rei]

Blasting the bottom of the O'day 39



Blasting went too easy. We started using blasting soda but ran into a black coating I think is coal tar epoxy. The soda could not penetrate it. We switched to glass beads with the same results. We then went to black slag from Menards which we understand to be as aggressive as it gets. We were able to penetrate the black but only after holding the gun in place for several seconds and then it would destroy the gelcoat under it. We decided to use the black stuff from Menards and take everything down to the black. 3 hours work and all blue bottom paint was gone. Only a few voids in the black primer could be seen as well as an area at the bottom of the rudder that had been abraded away. We sounded the entire hull and found no signs of blisters. Found three small blisters and lots of repair work on the rudder.
The iron keel was taken down to the iron showing lots of corrosion and the aft corner (about 6") of the keel had been broken off and rewelded.
I feel greatly relieved and very lucky. I've painted Zinc rich primer onto the keel and will fair with epoxy. The bottom will get two more coats of epoxy barrier coating and on to the bottom paint. Way too easy.

This is beginning to confirm my guess that this boat was well taken care of in a charter fleet. The coal tar epoxy saved future owners lots of head ache. Now I will focus on the toll the charter clients took on the boat.

 

[Panta Rei]

Water tanks rewelded. New Super Dinghy.

Filling the water tanks I noticed that my repair welds (see back a few pages) in my water tanks had a few leaks. I added a bit more filler and was a whole lot more careful to melt everything together. I'll fill the tanks again later this week.

A new project presented it's self. An old buddy game me his zodiac he purchased back in our college days (or about then) It's a great boat. It will need just a few patches. A bit big for a dinghy since it can take a forty HP motor. Same as the 39. I have a 25 hp Yamaha that I plan to use with it. Electric start on a dinghy???
I asked my wife if it was a bit excessive. She said I passed excessive a long time ago.
What do you all think? I still have a small inflatable with a 4 hp on it.

 

[dparilla]

I like it. Tender, tug, run about all in one!

 

[Panta Rei]

Here is a good example of a good company being ruined by a corporate conglomerate.

My boat has a Jabsco diaphragm pump for the pressure water system. It has a label that identifies it as a 32755. Sensor max vsd 5.0

It began to cycle on and off when no faucet was opened. It's been setting for years so I expected it to have the check valves full of junk. I opened it up and somehow messed up the sensing device that slows down the motor as demand lessens.

I searched the net for Jabsco's web site and saw that they are part of ITW (them and a few hundred companies)
I finally find Jabsco under another company and email them. This pump uses a sensor that reduces the motor speed as a magnet is moved closer to the sensor via a spring loaded diaphragm. Very clever set-up. I write in my email that the motor did not slow as I moved the sensor closer to a magnet (as the instructions tell me to do)

The response from the company (now in England) asks why I would want to slow a motor by placing a magnet next to it and where did I get that part number, no such pump had ever been made.
I replied that I was following the technical guide. The guy was very nice but very much clueless suggesting I contact a distributor. He gave me a list of three. All were in the Ag business likely selling fertilizer pumps. Never bothered to call.
I will use the pump as a washdown pump and by a new one. Check another company off the list. Sure and Johnson look like they are the alternatives.

 

[Panta Rei]

Silencing new water pressure pump.

Looking for alternative pumps I noticed that the Jabsco sensor max pumps are on sale. Likely being phased out. This may have been a very bad decision but I went ahead and ordered one. YES after bashing the company in the previous post above. My reasoning is that most of these pumps are throw away pumps as I found when I finally reached someone that was familiar with the line. I was informed that the warranty center tests and then sends replacement pumps. Very seldom do they repair and return. Certainly not when a motor or controller is involved. They do have simple gasket and wear item replacement kits. I figure why purchase repair kits for the pumps when I can use the old pump as a washdown pump and gut the thing if the new pump fails. This gives me a new pressure pump and an acceptable washdown pump with built in redundancy.
My next project is silencing these diaphragm pumps that seem to be everywhere on this boat. They sound like saber saws. One for the pressure system, and one for each shower sump.
My first experiment will be the pressure pump. This pump sits under the sink hanging over a ledge. Because of the ledge it can not be mounted properly by using hose as a isolator.
I decided to uses two stainless plates with the sound insulation left over from the engine room between the plates. The bottom plate will be screwed to the ledge. The pump is bolted to the top plate. The foam sandwich of foam , heavy rubber sheet, and foam is glued to each stainless plate. Nothing but the foam sandwich folds this pump in place. I will trim it up nicely and use aluminum tape to seal the edges. How it will hold up I am not sure but there is absolutely no vibration transferred.
I will likely use the flexible tubing method to silence at one of the shower pumps. The other will get this same foam sandwich treatment. I'll report back soon with the results.

 

[Sefuller]

VC Tar

That's most likely VC tar. Our 34 was barrier coated with it, and I spent a the winter of 2008 scraping 25 years of bottom paint and vc tar off the entire bottom with a 2" paint scraper - down to the gelcoat. The good news was I found a dozen or so tiny spots near the bow that I wouldn't even call blisters - the rest of the bottom was perfect. I rolled on 7 or 8 coats of Interprotect 2000, then cheaped out and used West Marine ablative bottom paint. I spent the winter of 2010 sanding off three layers of West Marine ablative bottom paint, rolled on 3 or 4 more coats of Interprotect and did what I should have done in the first place - used VC 17!

Live and learn!

--
Scott

Blasting went too easy. We started using blasting soda but ran into a black coating I think is coal tar epoxy. The soda could not penetrate it. We switched to glass beads with the same results. We then went to black slag from Menards which we understand to be as aggressive as it gets. We were able to penetrate the black but only after holding the gun in place for several seconds and then it would destroy the gelcoat under it. We decided to use the black stuff from Menards and take everything down to the black. 3 hours work and all blue bottom paint was gone. Only a few voids in the black primer could be seen as well as an area at the bottom of the rudder that had been abraded away. We sounded the entire hull and found no signs of blisters. Found three small blisters and lots of repair work on the rudder.
The iron keel was taken down to the iron showing lots of corrosion and the aft corner (about 6") of the keel had been broken off and rewelded.

 

[Panta Rei]

The black coating is hard and tough as nails. No way of scrapping it off. I'll just keep it in place. If there are small blisters under it I will be blissfully unaware of them. I will follow-up with several coats of 2000e. I'm still researching what comes next. VC 17 sounds very interesting but I don't know exactly when the boat will see salt water. Maybe go with VC17 and then use an ablative when I see the salt.
The boat will not be in the water very long. My plan is to sail it a few weeks heading to the Atlantic and then place it back on the hard until the next leg. Bottom paint is a ways down the worry list.
Pressure pump is installed and running at a noise level less than the sound of the water coming out of the tap. The pump is located under the galley sink. The two doors accessing this area have been removed for finishing so the pump will be nearly silent when the doors are installed. I'm very happy with this arrangement. As I said a few posts back, I'll try the more standard (tubing) approach to sound proofing one of the shower pumps for comparison. You will note that I placed left over sound insulation on the wall next to the pump. This stuff makes everything sound solid. I placed some of this material under the lazzarrette cover. Huge difference!!!

 

[Panta Rei]

That's most likely VC tar. Our 34 was barrier coated with it, and I spent a the winter of 2008 scraping 25 years of bottom paint and vc tar off the entire bottom with a 2" paint scraper - down to the gelcoat. The good news was I found a dozen or so tiny spots near the bow that I wouldn't even call blisters - the rest of the bottom was perfect. I rolled on 7 or 8 coats of Interprotect 2000, then cheaped out and used West Marine ablative bottom paint. I spent the winter of 2010 sanding off three layers of West Marine ablative bottom paint, rolled on 3 or 4 more coats of Interprotect and did what I should have done in the first place - used VC 17!

Live and learn!

--
Scott

Sefuller!!! your in Milwaukee. I'm just 40 miles east. I need to find a place to toss the tub in the water. My plan is to splash it in August and sail it a bit just to find out what I missed. I'll then pull it again for the winter and any work it needs. Next spring will be the start of the journey. Do you have any suggestions where I should splash it? Nothing fancy, just some place with a great service staff.

 

[Panta Rei]

Captain tolley's creeping crack cure to the rescue!!!

This product really works!!!! The video is a hoot! Is this guy for real?
http://www.captaintolley.com/movie/movie.html

I noticed silicone sealant around ever port and fitting on the deck during my first inspection of the boat. I knew then I would be re-bedding ports, cleats and such plus possibly dealing with soggy core.

The silicone did absolutely nothing to stop the leaky ports. I removed most of the silicone and the leaks did not increase at all. Just a waist of material and an ugly mess.

I also found a leak in the grab rail on deck as well as a deck crack along an stanchion.

My plan was to remove everything and start re-bedding.
The boat has been covered for nearly two years. I've opened areas of the deck to dry things out. I was very fortunate, this boat was in a charter fleet and many of cleats and blocks were properly re-bedded. I'm crediting the charter company because there are many signs someone did something right (barrier coating on the hull for one ) followed by several owners that were clueless.

I ran across a post raving about Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure and thought I would give it a try.
This first appears as a bit of a short cut but I quickly became comfortable with it since I feel I have any soggy core issues well at hand and this boat is not going to see heavy usage while I own it. Unlike Joe (25yearslater) I am not looking to completely rebuild the boat or elevate it for crossing oceans as I've seen others do.
I traced upstream any leak I noted two years back and guessed at the source. I applied Captain Tolley's magical stuff everywhere I could think the source of the the leak was. It was easy to see the leaks once I applied the stuff. The thin materiel disappears into the crack in a minute or so. It just sits on top if there is no leak for it to enter. I let it sit a few minutes and wiped off anything that did not follow a crack. I reapplied a few days later. Sure enough some of the cracks sealed up completely others took two applications. The best thing about this process is that you can tell when you have sealed up the crack. It just sits there once it has no place to go.

The test: I removed the tarp last week and It's been raining on and of since. I went to the boat this morning during a very hard rain. Boat is absolutely dry below. I squirted dish soap over the entire deck to help the rain wash away some dust leftover from the hull blasting. This of course lowers the surface tension of the water and would allow it to find the smallest leak. Still nothing. I'm sold on this product.

 

[Panta Rei]

Need some help!!!

Plumbing system is up and running. I found a leak in the aft head sink drain and a clever arrangement to redirect the leak to the bilge. Why any one would make such effort to do something so stupid is beyond me.
Here is the problem... The after head has a very smart fold down sink. Click link for photo
http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&h...w=127&start=0&ndsp=13&ved=1t:429,r:5,s:0,i:82


Unfortunately either O'day or my suspect "the french" molded the sink with a non standard drain hole. 1 1/4 vs the standard 1 1/2 to 1 5/8.
I'm checking RV stores today but I think I'm in trouble. There are two issues here. The small drain hole and the lack of clearance under the sink, 2 1/2 inches to make the turn. See photos for the the arrangement I had found.

I believe the drain hose broke the drain fitting at some point. I do think it may be possible to repair the drain ring fitting with glue but I'll keep that as last resort.

I'm counting on O'day's use of common parts and hope this drain is used on other O'day's and someone found a source for the part.

 

[25yearslater]

:cry: Hey, I'm of french ancestry. Have you tried the big box stores? Standard household plumbing comes in 1-1/4 inch. That looks like the tailpiece type drain.

 

[Panta Rei]

Hi Joe..
It's a bit confusing, a standard drain is 1 1/4" on the inside. The hole in my sink is 1-1/4" not allowing for the thickness of the tailpiece type drain which is considerable because of the threads.
I blamed the french because they made the molds for the boat and I'm an American. I thought we were to always blame the french. Actually, I though they might have had a different standard. I tried to Google French drains but as you can guess I found lots of comments on grey water drains in the back yard. Googling European bathroom drain standard yields 1 1/4" RV stores carry 1 1/4" also.
So I think it may have been an old boating or RV standard. I'm hoping someone has the answer.

 

[DeniseO30]

This?

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|26723|305300&id=102744

 

[Panta Rei]

That's It!!!!

This?

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|26723|305300&id=102744

I owe you one !!!! Do you need any brackets made from stainless? I've got the run of the shop and all the stainless I can scrounge from the scrap bin.
We were planning to weld a washer on a 1" stainless nipple. You saved me a bunch of time and money.
I need the get a new Defender catalog. I keep forgetting about them. I'll need to increase the hole a 1/6" but the sink is all fiberglass. Nothing to it.
I spent some time on the Forespar website. They have a very clever low cost lifting crane. Check out video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gzWg_0aDzE&feature=player_embedded
The line is lead on the inside of the crane so there is no force to swivel the crane as you lit. (my new favorite website)

 

[Panta Rei]

Bleaching teak

I knew I needed the pressure water before I could start cleaning up and finish the teak. The hot water was a real treat this weekend since it was in the 40's.
The years of soil and teak oil were removed last year. It's an easy but messy project using TSP to react with the teak oil (this is called saponifaction) it's how soap is made.
I'm now bleaching the wood since there are spots that were never exposed that are lighter and heavily soiled areas that are much darker. I'm using sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide. This really works as opposed to the single component (Oxalic acid) or two component (hydrochloric acid) products on the market.
It a standard process used in the wood finishing industry. I'm looking for a commercial product I can recommend here. The stuff I use is a bit dangerous.
The photo shows a dark spot in the settee area that I am treating. Iyt was once a dark square. You will also notice a black stain from the velcro used to hold the cushions. I'll most likely have to treat the black stain with a paint stripper. (I think it is adhesive) I'm not using cushions on this wall in an attempt to open up some space. I'm also trying to expose as much wood as possible since O'day used very little. The areas were very dark. I apply the bleach in stripes to match the grain. You'll see the finished product soon.

I have begun the first coats of varnish. I intend to build 3 or 4 coats of clear varnish and then us Epifanes Rubbed Effect for the final coat. I'm using Minwax clear interior for the first few coats since it's inexpensive (one gallon costs the same as a quart of captains) and there is no sense using expensive varnishes on underside and inside cabinets (which is generally 1/3 to 1/2 the project). I'll follow with Captain's ultra clear until it is as smooth as glass. the apply the rubbed effect.