Got Questions? Ask Them Here.

[redhead78]

Hi Mainsail, I tried to ask about butyl tape I have from a previous job, if I can use it to bed deck hardware. I had trouble posting a pic so I did it on the discussion forum. I will try to put it here...There we are, I think I got it. Not so good on the computer...Thanks Red

 

[Maine Sail]

Hi Mainsail, I tried to ask about butyl tape I have from a previous job, if I can use it to bed deck hardware. I had trouble posting a pic so I did it on the discussion forum. I will try to put it here...There we are, I think I got it. Not so good on the computer...Thanks Red

Hard to tell just by looking at it. 1/16" thick works better than 1/8" and it should be very stretchy before breaking. Cheaper RV tapes are not as good as architectural grade tapes. From the picture it looks like an RV grade but really impossible to tell. All you can do is try it. Worst case you have to do is re-do it..

 

[redhead78]

Well Mainesail,I normally would go with my gut, however I removed my mast this year and am planning to re- bed everything on my deck, and, after all this work, and expense I would be an idiot to cheap out on butyl tape.I ordered 2 rolls this morning.I do not mind the work, however I don't want to do it twice, thanks for your input. Red

 

[DAVA390]

I read with interest the recent discussions with Roger Long about fuel pumps. I got lost when you guys discussed "fuel Polishing" What does that mean? And thanks again for the trickle charger help last week!! Dave

 

[Maine Sail]

I read with interest the recent discussions with Roger Long about fuel pumps. I got lost when you guys discussed "fuel Polishing" What does that mean? And thanks again for the trickle charger help last week!! Dave

Many of us have on-board diesel fuel polishing systems that circulate the fuel through a separate filter and return it to the tank. Ours will turn the tank about twice per hour and picks up the fuel at the lowest point in the tank from within 1/8" from the bottom. Running these systems keeps your fuel and tank cleaner and actively filters the fuel so it is near spotless.

 

[SVTatia]

Mitsubishi Engine Parts Manual

Maine Sail

How did you get the Mistu parts book? I am having a hard time obtaining one. I have the engine model Number (L3E) and a six digit serial number but I have tried several distributors and they claim that the serial number is not corect. I have seen the serial number format from Mitsu but the numbers on my engine are not even close to the format. Could it be the Westerbeke engines are numbered differently? At this point it is a no go as I have to refraim from providing "too much information". Did you contact Mistsubishi directly?

Thanks!

 

[Maine Sail]

Maine Sail

How did you get the Mistu parts book? I am having a hard time obtaining one. I have the engine model Number (L3E) and a six digit serial number but I have tried several distributors and they claim that the serial number is not corect. I have seen the serial number format from Mitsu but the numbers on my engine are not even close to the format. Could it be the Westerbeke engines are numbered differently? At this point it is a no go as I have to refraim from providing "too much information". Did you contact Mistsubishi directly?

Thanks!

See PM

 

[Blitz]

MaineSail;

Few questions in setting up some wiring projects:

Where do you get the copper bars for linking your bus bars together or ANL fuse blocks? Are you just using regular stock (size/thickness)? Should it be tinned in some way?

I am noticing that many of the pictures at this site show flooded batteries in boxes, but without lids (sometimes just for the pictures, but other times you can tell they don't exist, just tie downs). Does this meet code? Is there a code on this? I guess the threat is in a full knockdown you could have a mess, but the lids aren't sealed tight anyway and I assume some acid would leak in a knockdown anyway. Comments?

 

[Maine Sail]

MaineSail;

Few questions in setting up some wiring projects:

Where do you get the copper bars for linking your bus bars together or ANL fuse blocks? Are you just using regular stock (size/thickness)? Should it be tinned in some way?

McMaster Carr

I am noticing that many of the pictures at this site show flooded batteries in boxes, but without lids (sometimes just for the pictures, but other times you can tell they don't exist, just tie downs). Does this meet code?

Yes it does, IF the terminals are protected and the battery is not in a compartment with other items.. The standard is more around containment of the acid, ventilation of the compartment, type of compartment and accidental shorts to the battery post. On many boats the lids simple don't fit. Lots of builders ship boats with no lids but the batts are in their own compartment which has a lid.

Is there a code on this? I guess the threat is in a full knockdown you could have a mess, but the lids aren't sealed tight anyway and I assume some acid would leak in a knockdown anyway. Comments?

In a knock down some acid can spill and the compartment or battery box or both needs to be able to contain the acid. In a knock down or broach you come back up pretty quick so you won't lose a ton of acid unless rolled completely which you then have more pressing issues. Been there lost maybe 1.8 oz and it was contained in the plastic battery box for the most part. Thigs I worry about more like is the engine still attached to the engine beds and the rig still attached to the boat would get my attention too.

The battery lids do not keep acid in the box as they must be vented anyway... The single most important aspect is to have containment, and good tie downs, so the batts don't move. Lots of my photos are during installations or in the winter, or when doing a change out etc. so may not always show everything in-place. Hydrocaps can really limit the loss of electrolyte if they can be fitted to your batts.

 

[Blitz]

McMaster Carr

Yes it does, IF the terminals are protected and the battery is not in a compartment with other items..

quote]


What thickness are your copper bars?

Such as the rubber caps for protection?

I assume other items are allowed such as fuses and wiring are ok, just no supplies that are not electrically necessary.


As a side note, I see that Blue Seas ACR requires a fuse on the grounds.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Blitz]

:neutral:

 

[Maine Sail]

Mainesail,

On your battery charger installation thread it looks like you are using a 280 Amp ANL in a blue seas pn 5005 fuse block. You have shown that at times that a diesel engine will draw over 300 amps (the rating for this fuse block). My question is do you ever use or need to use the bigger 750 amp fuse block (PN 5503) or is this block like the ANL fuse in which you can draw over the rated amount for short periods of time?

Also, couldn't you have used a smaller fuse on the charger since the Sterling charger is only 20 amps and you used 50 amps. I believe a 35 ANL fuse is available.

Thanks again!

Blitz,

These are good questions. Would you mind posting this over in the battery charger thread for continuity and I'll answer the questions over there.. I don't think I can move a single post...

 

[Blitz]

Mainesail,

As you know I'm in the middle of some rewiring this winter. Besides replacing my 28 year old charger, I'm needing to bring the battery fusing up to par. for I'll be adding fuse blocks, a positive buss, battery monitor (Victron) and a new battery switch and upgrading the wiring sizing. I'll be also upgrading the wiring and possibly relocating my bilge pump (rule 2000) since the wire run is close to 25 feet one way due to the routing of the wire.

Regarding the battery switch; the previous switch (Guest 4 position) works well but is too long of a battery run from the starter, batteries, etc when taking into account the round trip.

My question at this point mostly has to do with locations / layout. I'm looking to replace the battery switch with a Blue Seas 4 position switch closer to the battery bank. (Not sure if I need an alternating Field Disconnect) I'll be cutting a hole into the battery compartment making a flush mount installation, which puts the switch low but closer to everything it needs. Do you think the pictured location makes sense? Should I worry about the back side of the switch? The batteries will be tied down, assume there is no regulation that prohibits this since I see many boats like this.

Also, in the battery compartment I think I have enough room to install the shunt and the battery fusing under the lip of the battery compartment, next to the battery switch. This would be my preferred location since it minimizes wire runs (meeting the 7" requirement is somewhat of a bear but think it can be done).

Currently my negative bus is in the engine compartment next to the battery compartment. I'm thinking of leaving it there.

Currently my ACR is in the Battery compartment, wired with 4 GA wire. it works well and might leave it there unless otherwise need to reduce wire runs to the fusing.

The fusing and positive buss will be under the lip in the battery compartment. I got 19" on one wall and 9 " of length on the other wall to work with, with a height of 12" and about 5 " of clear space between the walls of the battery compartment and the battery boxes. I'm thinking this is a good location. Any suggestions? I only ask since I noticed you have mounted yours on the hull side.

Where the old battery switch is now located, I'm thinking of putting a teak cover over the hole to mount the Battery monitor and a Rule dedicated switch for the bilge pump.

Some side notes, I do not have external regulation, and only a 35 Amp alternator on my Yanmar 3GM. My battery compartment narrows pretty good limiting space for my 2 group 27 and 1 group 24 (reserve).

Sorry the pictures are fussy.

Let me know what you think, positive or negative.

Thanks again - Neal

 

[Maine Sail]

Mainesail,

Regarding the battery switch; the previous switch (Guest 4 position) works well but is too long of a battery run from the starter, batteries, etc when taking into account the round trip.

My question at this point mostly has to do with locations / layout. I'm looking to replace the battery switch with a Blue Seas 4 position switch closer to the battery bank.

Great idea!

(Not sure if I need an alternating Field Disconnect)

An AFD only works f you can interrupt the field wire for the regulator. Most often this will require an external reg unless you want to dig into the alt. A far easier solution to prevent fried diodes is to simply run the alt to the house bank. Fuse and a "service disconnect" switch would be needed.

I'll be cutting a hole into the battery compartment making a flush mount installation, which puts the switch low but closer to everything it needs. Do you think the pictured location makes sense? Should I worry about the back side of the switch? The batteries will be tied down, assume there is no regulation that prohibits this since I see many boats like this.

Nothing wrong with that at all just protect the wires from chafe and accidental short possibilities.

Also, in the battery compartment I think I have enough room to install the shunt and the battery fusing under the lip of the battery compartment, next to the battery switch. This would be my preferred location since it minimizes wire runs (meeting the 7" requirement is somewhat of a bear but think it can be done).

7" is the suggestion but don't lose sleep over it. On many boats it is next to impossible to achieve. If the wire run is 12" and perfectly safe then put the fuse at 12"..

Currently my negative bus is in the engine compartment next to the battery compartment. I'm thinking of leaving it there.

If it works why move it..

Currently my ACR is in the Battery compartment, wired with 4 GA wire. it works well and might leave it there unless otherwise need to reduce wire runs to the fusing.

I've got a trick you may like and will try and upload a pic later... You basically mount an MRBF to the ACR. Kills a few birds with one stone..

The fusing and positive buss will be under the lip in the battery compartment. I got 19" on one wall and 9 " of length on the other wall to work with, with a height of 12" and about 5 " of clear space between the walls of the battery compartment and the battery boxes. I'm thinking this is a good location. Any suggestions? I only ask since I noticed you have mounted yours on the hull side.

If you have room that's where I'd mount it. Many compartments lack room so the hull side with a back plane can work well.

Where the old battery switch is now located, I'm thinking of putting a teak cover over the hole to mount the Battery monitor and a Rule dedicated switch for the bilge pump.

That will work well..

Some side notes, I do not have external regulation, and only a 35 Amp alternator on my Yanmar 3GM. My battery compartment narrows pretty good limiting space for my 2 group 27 and 1 group 24 (reserve).

Your alt is a tad undersized but will work. If it fails look into a larger Hitachi like the 60A model..

 

[Blitz]

Great idea!

[/FONT][/COLOR]
A far easier solution to prevent fried diodes is to simply run the alt to the house bank.

Your alt is a tad undersized but will work. If it fails look into a larger Hitachi like the 60A version …

I am planning to run my alt directly to my house bank on the rewire, and have been doing that for years with the ACR so I'm good here, I'll fuse it as in your example. Assume 35 amp alt would use something close to a 35 amp fuse. I'll properly wire it for a future upgrade (maybe this summer) to an 60 amp alt, but fuse it accordingly. I'm at a dock on shore power mostly so a bigger Alt never been a priority expect for the occasional trip.

7" is the suggestion but don't lose sleep over it. On many boats it is next to impossible to achieve. If the wire run is 12" and perfectly safe then put the fuse at 12"..

As I lay everything out, mine is 12", so I won't lose sleep.

I've got a trick you may like and will try and upload a pic later... You basically mount an MRBF to the ACR. Kills a few birds with one stone..

Think I know what you mean, never thought about it but I guess you need to protect the wire from the ACR to the reserve battery both ways - meaning a MRBF on the ACR and the reserve would cover this. I'd like to see your pic either way.

off to Genuinedealz to order some wires...

 

[funjohnson]

See PM

I could use the information on the Mitsubishi parts info too... it's the same block (L3E). I can't get this book either.

 

[Thyme1]

Hey guys,
I've got an AutoHelm 3000 (analogue)... I know, I know it's old... But I'm having a fit getting the red and green light to expire in the 'Set' mode. I've tried turning the top knob on the compass dial; it simply switches from red to green, flickering back and forth... Any ideas???

 

[Maine Sail]

Hey guys,
I've got an AutoHelm 3000 (analogue)... I know, I know it's old... But I'm having a fit getting the red and green light to expire in the 'Set' mode. I've tried turning the top knob on the compass dial; it simply switches from red to green, flickering back and forth... Any ideas???

Is this one with the compass in the "box"? If so try shaking it lightly... Raymarine no longer supports these and when they get long in the tooth and start doing odd things finding a used one or replacing is often the only viable option. If it has the fluxgate in the box or if mounted externally be sure you don't have any ferrous metals, like a tool bag, near it..

 

[nmkettler]

Hey so I just inherited a Ranger 22 from a family member that passed away. I just learned how to sail this past winter and am now OBSESSED!! The outboard is practically a new Honda 12 hp and the rest of the boat is in very good condition including the bottom which was recently repainted. The only thing is that barnacles are everywhere on the bottom of the hull. Given that I am a senior in college and about to go to law school, splitting the slip fees and other costs are a burden even when splitting the cost with my friend. What is the best way to get rid of the barnacles without lifting her out of the water??

 

[Maine Sail]

Hey so I just inherited a Ranger 22 from a family member that passed away. I just learned how to sail this past winter and am now OBSESSED!! The outboard is practically a new Honda 12 hp and the rest of the boat is in very good condition including the bottom which was recently repainted. The only thing is that barnacles are everywhere on the bottom of the hull. Given that I am a senior in college and about to go to law school, splitting the slip fees and other costs are a burden even when splitting the cost with my friend. What is the best way to get rid of the barnacles without lifting her out of the water??

Diving and scraping...