Got Questions? Ask Them Here.

BerkeleyChris · Sep 2, 2014

Hello Maine,

Thanks for all the free education.

I have a question about battery placement. My Alden 44 has two spaces for batteries. One one each side of the boat. I currently have 4 group 27s. Two on each side. I would like to replace these with 4 golf cart batteries for the house and 1 g27 for reserve/starting.

I think I have read somewhere that I should try and keep all the batteries in one bank together. However, neither space is big enough to fit all 4 batteries for the house bank. The easiest thing would be to put 3 of the 6v on one side and put the other 6v and the reserve battery on the other side.

Are there any down sides to doing this?

How do I calculate the size of the cables I need to run between the two sides? The distance is about 12 feet. I think my worst case current draw is starting my engine, a Westerbeke 40. It wants about 160 A. 1/4 from the distant battery. Looking at a chart on the Blue Seas page that seems to require 8 gauge for a 3% voltage drop. Is this rational thinking?

mitiempo · Sep 3, 2014

I would keep the 6 volt batteries in pairs.

As far as the wiring to the starter - 8 gauge? I would use 1/0 as a minimum. Nobody wires a starter with 8 gauge.

Even Catalina, when they got it wrong, used 4 gauge. They now use 1/0 I believe.

kito · Sep 3, 2014

Ok Maine Sail, I got a question for you. I am installing new motor mounts, new coupler and shaft, a new cutlass bearing and removing/straightening and installing new backing plates on the strut on my H30 with a ysm12. What would you suggest on the sequence of this alignment nightmare? I would think that the strut needs to be mounted and the bore aligned to the center of the skeg. I know I am probably over thinking here but was considering making dummy plugs that fit the strut bore and the prop coupler bore. Both plugs would be bored to fit my 9mm bore laser sight (used to adjust the sights on my Glock). I would get the strut aligned first, make a mark on the skeg where the laser hit. Then mount the prop coupler with the laser and start my engine mount adjustment until the laser hits the dot. Too crazy or overkill?

BerkeleyChris · Sep 3, 2014

What is the reason for keeping them in pairs?

Is there a calculation that produces the use 1/0 gauge?

Thanks
Chris

mitiempo said:
I would keep the 6 volt batteries in pairs.

As far as the wiring to the starter - 8 gauge? I would use 1/0 as a minimum. Nobody wires a starter with 8 gauge.

Even Catalina, when they got it wrong, used 4 gauge. They now use 1/0 I believe.

kito · Sep 3, 2014

Maine Sail said:
Align shaft/engine to center in the stern tube/shaft log
Align / shim strut to now centered shaft in shaft log.

This is tedious and exacting work.
You can also use laser bore sight for guns (Cabella's) and have a machine shop make a machined insert for the bore sight that fits snugly into the strut. You can then center the shaft/engine in the stern tube then aim the bore sight at the dead center of the gear flange.

A machined insert for the stern tube, for which the shaft can pass through and remain centered, can also be helpful in doing the engine end of this job.

You would be amazed at how poorly many factory installed struts & shaft logs are done with regards to proper alignment. If I had to shoot from the hip I would guess 50% absolutely SUCK.....

Thanks MS. I don't need a laser plug for the shaft coupling...just the strut bore I'll make an aluminum plug to fit the strut bore and bore it to fit snug to my 9mm laser bore sight. Should be easy to make if the od and id are cut in the same operation. I forgot about the shaft log. I will be removing it too and rebedding. I am debating on reusing the PO's shaft log. He rigged up a bronze thru hull with 2 anti-rotation screws on the outside flange. He just clamped the hose onto the threads. Problem is he coated the threads with 5200 first so getting the nut off is a pain. I need something that will break 5200 down. Great idea on just aligning the strut first with the shaft log. Keeping the laser in the strut and aligning it to the center of the transmission flange will save a lot of time and running up and down the ladder.

Just was thinking, I believe I do need the prop shaft coupling mounted with a laser plug to get the correct downward angle. The laser from the strut can hit the center of the tranny flange and the engine could still not be angled correctly.

njlarry · Sep 3, 2014

Why use dialectric grease? I believe that it is an insulator and so blocks current flow rather than allows it. If corrosion control is the goal why not use any kind of grease?
Thanks for clearing up the mystery.

kito · Sep 3, 2014

Maine Sail said:
Never hurts but if you've aligned the shaft to the engine and shaft log first, then align the strut to match that, you should be in a close enough situation.. You will need a way to support the shaft during this but it can be done... The strut can be used without cutlass and shims can be made when working out the engine end.. Shimming the strut is the hardest part thus why I prefer to have the other end

Got it MS. So have you ever seen a shaft log made from a thru hull fitting? Is it ok to double clamp the stuff box hose to a thread?. It seems to fit fine and does have the screws to keep it from turning. The problem I am going to have getting the fitting centerline lined up with the center of the skeg so the shaft is down the middle instead of angled port or starboard.

mitiempo · Sep 3, 2014

BerkeleyChris said:
What is the reason for keeping them in pairs?

Is there a calculation that produces the use 1/0 gauge?

Thanks
Chris

The wiring between batteries should be equal length. The jumpers to make 2 golf cart batteries would be less than 1' in one locker and many times that for the split pair. With a pair on each side it is a lot easier to keep the lengths the same. The positive should be connected to one pair and the negative to the other pair.

I make all battery wiring the same size. If you are using 1/0 to the starter the battery wires between the batteries should also be 1/0. By wiring with 1/0 the way I have described the charging of all batteries will be even and their service life will be similar.

IStream · Sep 3, 2014

kito said:
Got it MS. So have you ever seen a shaft log made from a thru hull fitting? Is it ok to double clamp the stuff box hose to a thread?. It seems to fit fine and does have the screws to keep it from turning. The problem I am going to have getting the fitting centerline lined up with the center of the skeg so the shaft is down the middle instead of angled port or starboard.

The thread provides a red carpet for water to get around the hose end. That is, unless your hose seats all the way to the bottom of the threads or you otherwise fill in the threads, there's a continuous, unblocked path from the wet side to the dry side.

kito · Sep 3, 2014

IStream said:
The thread provides a red carpet for water to get around the hose end. That is, unless your hose seats all the way to the bottom of the threads or you otherwise fill in the threads, there's a continuous, unblocked path from the wet side to the dry side.

The PO covered the threads with 5200 and slid the hose all the way to the nut....plowing a mound of 5200 along it's way creating a seal between the hose and the thru hull nut. I had to slice the hose length ways to get it off.

tobygirl · Sep 29, 2014

Wind Generator on Mizzen Mast

Our new boat is an Alberg 37 yawl. We sail off a mooring and are thinking that a wind generator might be better option since the dodger would probably be the only place to mount a solar panel. The radar is also mounted on the mizzen. We have decided on the MK450, if we go with the wind generator versus solar, but are wondering about a bracket attachment.

Any thoughts on which way we should go here ?

Tim22 · Oct 27, 2014

I am installing new groco bronze seacocks on my Hunter 31. The seacocks did not come with bolts and my question is can I use stainless steel bolts? The boat is in fresh water.

Thanks
Tim

Tim22 · Oct 27, 2014

Thanks Maine
Seacocks don't seem like a good place to compromise so I will get the bronze bolts.

Tim

down_shift · Oct 28, 2014

Maine,
First I want to thank you for sharing your expertise in all things boat. Not only have you helped sailors avoid unnecessary hazards, but you have provided the ability for us "weekend warriors" to tackle many projects that initially might have appeared out of reach.
For some reason yet to be identified, the hull collects a small amount of fresh water under the v-birth (perhaps from anchor locker, trap hatch, or just condensation). Probably 1-inch at its deepest point before it flows around and back to the bilge. The ponding water reaches both of my transducers and causing a portion of the thru hull backing plywood to sit in the water. From the attached picture, how bad does the plywood look? Assuming these need to be addressed, as well as the source of water. I believe the thru hulls were installed in 1987.

Renegade135 · Oct 28, 2014

Solar Battery Charging over winter;
I have been following some of the discussion about leaving the battery charger off during the winter on a sailboat that is idle. It makes sense if it is cold, and if they are not used; overcharging or water loss can't be monitored as carefully if you are not using the boat. I also have a 100W panel with a genasun controller feeding the two group 27 batteries. Assuming Seattle conditions, and that charging will not be that great except maybe 2-3 days a month, is it smarter to add a disconnect switch to the solar panels? In this scenario would turn the charger for a few hours when I do get to the boat, every few weeks.

Got Questions? Ask Them Here.

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