Haha! Isn't it bad luck to rename a boat unless it's for a new owner? I do like "phoenix" tho
Repairing Hunter 40 damage from Hurricane Matthew
- Thread starter B757Captain
- Start date
Haha! Isn't it bad luck to rename a boat unless it's for a new owner? I do like "phoenix" tho
That's as good an explanation as any I could think of. I was alone and thankfully the rollers I used compensated for the lack of tipping. Each successive coat got smoother and smoother and now with a good buffing (when the paint is cured!) it will truly meet my final goal - so bright and shiny you can't get within 10 feet without being blinded! Can't see any booboos that way
Rain yesterday, parts run today:
Took some time off yesterday to re-coup, and today I went shopping for new parts to install. Yay! Pics upload and progress tomorrow.
Cheers,
Mark
Took some time off yesterday to re-coup, and today I went shopping for new parts to install. Yay! Pics upload and progress tomorrow.
Cheers,
Mark
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,163
No. But it will require a considerable atonement to the gods of the sea... Expensive drink, first born, nude ritual dancing... who knows with a god.
I think you’ve just about surpassed your out-of-pocket maximum for bad luck. Name it whatever you wish.Haha! Isn't it bad luck to rename a boat unless it's for a new owner? I do like "phoenix" tho
You *had* to bring up nude dancing again. I thought you had learned your lesson from last time.
wow is all I can say ... I had a 1985 Hunter 40 in my past it's always been one of my favorite boats (mine didn't have the sugar scoop transom I assume that was an after market addition) Anyway, I have been following your story with interest, amazement and memories of work on my 40. Then and even today just having to wax the hull and paint the bottom of my boats sets me off complaining about the amount of work required. Next spring all I'll have to do is think of you and it will be easy to tell my complaining mind to shut up and get on with it. Good luck with the rest of the project and hang in there ... I look forwarded to seeing pictures of you out sailing her.
+1
Why did no one else think of that before now? That will be the ultimate reward!
Thanks! I was told when I bought the boat that the sugar scoop was a factory option but that info came from the PO, so who knows. There may have been an aftermarket company doing such things back then. I do know it was one of the boat's selling points for me and it has been a really nice and useful option. I think it's better than a lot of the current boats that have transom steps because there is "maneuvering room" on the scoop.
I'm trying to not get too far ahead of myself thinking about getting back on the water - but me too! Yesterday a couple of the guys were getting ready to launch and prepping for a local race, talking about sails, rigs, and all that other non-repair/construction stuff. It was a nice change!
Mark
Re-installing parts & pieces:
I didn't get good pics in the sunshine until yesterday:
Climbing up topsides has been a pain without transom steps so I took the day to reinstall some of the parts & pieces here. First up was to temporarily mount the transom steps (bars):
I found some nice steps that would mount to the bars (easier on bare feet). I drilled and tapped the SS bars for screws to attach the steps and mounted everything permanently:
Next up was getting rid of the clunky old swim ladder. It was mounted in a pretty bizarre way to the transom and had defied all my attempts to fix loose bolts, so I canned it completely:
and got a collapsible ladder. Takes up much less space!
It's not permanently mounted yet - I needed to fix it in place, but I still need to roll on some Kiwi-grip to complete the platform and I didn't want to mount the ladder overtop the non-skid. I'll tape off the area around the mounting pads, roll on the non-skid then finish mounting it.
Lastly, I reinstalled the fuel and water tank vents and the grab rails. The rails had quite a bit of staining but I have found that Turtlewax metal polish works really well at removing the rust stains and giving the stainless a protective coating, so the rails got polished before I mounted them. Done for the day:
Next up - boot stripe!
Cheers,
Mark
I didn't get good pics in the sunshine until yesterday:
Climbing up topsides has been a pain without transom steps so I took the day to reinstall some of the parts & pieces here. First up was to temporarily mount the transom steps (bars):
I found some nice steps that would mount to the bars (easier on bare feet). I drilled and tapped the SS bars for screws to attach the steps and mounted everything permanently:
Next up was getting rid of the clunky old swim ladder. It was mounted in a pretty bizarre way to the transom and had defied all my attempts to fix loose bolts, so I canned it completely:
and got a collapsible ladder. Takes up much less space!
It's not permanently mounted yet - I needed to fix it in place, but I still need to roll on some Kiwi-grip to complete the platform and I didn't want to mount the ladder overtop the non-skid. I'll tape off the area around the mounting pads, roll on the non-skid then finish mounting it.
Lastly, I reinstalled the fuel and water tank vents and the grab rails. The rails had quite a bit of staining but I have found that Turtlewax metal polish works really well at removing the rust stains and giving the stainless a protective coating, so the rails got polished before I mounted them. Done for the day:
Next up - boot stripe!
Cheers,
Mark
you have quite the work ethic!
you think the foot steps will stand up to off center loads with only two screws?
I would like to see some bracing under them to stop any rotation without relying on the screws
you think the foot steps will stand up to off center loads with only two screws?
I would like to see some bracing under them to stop any rotation without relying on the screws
Looking great Mark. As for the stainless, have you ever tried Wichinox Passivation jell?
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/wichard-wichinox-stainless-steel-etcher-cleaner
I use it on all my stainless and have been amazed at the results. here are some before and after photos of the mounts for my dodger. This was done by wiping on with a piece of terry cloth, letting it set for about 20 minutes and rinsing off.
Attachments
Thats close to the same set-up as Catalina ladder steps. They are riveted. Never a problem.
That stuff is very similar to what guys in the beverage industry sometimes call pickling paste. It's an acid that eats the free ferrous molecules out of the surface of the stainless. You need to be a little careful when using it & you will want to wash it off as quickly as possible if you get it on you, but, when properly used, it does greatly improve the corrosion resistance of many grades of stainless. It will probably surprise many people to learn that properly passivated 304 or 18-8 actually rates much higher on the nobility scale compared to unpassivated (active) 316. http://www.duncanbolt.com/images/metalschart.png
I think they'll be ok - the step pads are fairly thick in the center and are contoured slightly so they are not flat across the top. Time will tell. Next engineering change if these don't work is to fab some steps from stainless but I thought I would try the low tech route first.
I had never heard of this before - intriguing! I went to the link to get some but they are out of stock. I'll search for another source.
Good info on stainless properties. Thanks!
Boot stripe:
After letting the paint dry and harden for a few days, back at it. Next up was to roll on the new boot stripe. I had established the location - i.e., bottom edge - for the boot stripe via measurements, head scratching, and trial & error previously but how to establish the top edge? Just measuring up (I settled on) 3 1/2" for the stripe will create a "vanishing effect" as the hull turns down going aft. Using a laser level won't work due to the boat's orientation on the stands. So, in my usual fashion, I devised a low-tech solution!
History flashback - I come from a family of farmers who relied on common sense, basic and non-convoluted fixes, and hands-on mechanical skills to keep the machinery working. I'm not sure I inherited all those traits but I did get some of them! We still have a few acres of the original land-grant farm acquire back in the late 1800s, and my grandpa even kept the 1903 Rumley tractor working until the early 70s!
So, here's my solution - the boot stripe should maintain the same apparent thickness when viewed at the waterline, so all I have to do is find a way to square a level height from any point from the waterline:
Enter the carpenter's square with my angle-finder attached. Bonus - the angle-finder base is magnetic so it sticks to the ruler as I slide the square along the ruler. Added bonus - the square is 3 1/2" high (amazing how that worked out!). Set the ruler edge at the tape line, adjust until the pointer is (since the boat is leaning 1 degree to starboard) at -1 on the starboard side and +1 on the port side, slide the post until it contacts the hull and mark. Repeat every 6 inches or so. As I moved under the sugar scoop I did finally run out of ruler length so I extended that, but it works!
Run a tape line along the marks, stand back and eyeball:
When satisfied, mix up some paint - Interlux Perfection Royal Blue:
And boot stripe complete!
Next up - prepping for the cove stripe.
Cheers,
Mark
After letting the paint dry and harden for a few days, back at it. Next up was to roll on the new boot stripe. I had established the location - i.e., bottom edge - for the boot stripe via measurements, head scratching, and trial & error previously but how to establish the top edge? Just measuring up (I settled on) 3 1/2" for the stripe will create a "vanishing effect" as the hull turns down going aft. Using a laser level won't work due to the boat's orientation on the stands. So, in my usual fashion, I devised a low-tech solution!
History flashback - I come from a family of farmers who relied on common sense, basic and non-convoluted fixes, and hands-on mechanical skills to keep the machinery working. I'm not sure I inherited all those traits but I did get some of them! We still have a few acres of the original land-grant farm acquire back in the late 1800s, and my grandpa even kept the 1903 Rumley tractor working until the early 70s!
So, here's my solution - the boot stripe should maintain the same apparent thickness when viewed at the waterline, so all I have to do is find a way to square a level height from any point from the waterline:
Enter the carpenter's square with my angle-finder attached. Bonus - the angle-finder base is magnetic so it sticks to the ruler as I slide the square along the ruler. Added bonus - the square is 3 1/2" high (amazing how that worked out!). Set the ruler edge at the tape line, adjust until the pointer is (since the boat is leaning 1 degree to starboard) at -1 on the starboard side and +1 on the port side, slide the post until it contacts the hull and mark. Repeat every 6 inches or so. As I moved under the sugar scoop I did finally run out of ruler length so I extended that, but it works!
Run a tape line along the marks, stand back and eyeball:
When satisfied, mix up some paint - Interlux Perfection Royal Blue:
And boot stripe complete!
Next up - prepping for the cove stripe.
Cheers,
Mark
