Restoration of 1981 C-22 swing keel #10580
- Thread starter CloudDiver
- Start date
hey now those are cool. OK those are way better than my idea go with the star knobs didn't know they existed.
The early C22 pop-tops came with wing nuts ? Interesting. I assumed that all C22s used the star nut version.
Home Depot sells a large plastic wingnut, like those used on lawnmower handles.
They would also be an ok option if you can't find the star nuts. Not as good as the star nuts for people with arthritis I would guess though.
FWIW, I've been wondering about using a lever type latch instead of the star wheels that came on my 87.
Nothing better than simply pulling an adjustable handle, instead of turning a knob multiple times.
So far, in my minimal searching, the closest i've found was this:
http://www.perko.com/catalog/deck_hardware/323/hatch_fastener_or_windshield_keeper/
Home Depot sells a large plastic wingnut, like those used on lawnmower handles.
They would also be an ok option if you can't find the star nuts. Not as good as the star nuts for people with arthritis I would guess though.
FWIW, I've been wondering about using a lever type latch instead of the star wheels that came on my 87.
Nothing better than simply pulling an adjustable handle, instead of turning a knob multiple times.
So far, in my minimal searching, the closest i've found was this:
http://www.perko.com/catalog/deck_hardware/323/hatch_fastener_or_windshield_keeper/
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hmm
Let me clarify at least with my 1986. I have (or really close to it)
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1439/hatch-dog-assy-stainless-pop-top--fwd-hatch.cfm
BUT the bolt goes THREW the knob stick way way out the other side and tends to destroy the part in your hair.
Let me clarify at least with my 1986. I have (or really close to it)
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1439/hatch-dog-assy-stainless-pop-top--fwd-hatch.cfm
BUT the bolt goes THREW the knob stick way way out the other side and tends to destroy the part in your hair.
That's the same as mine. Every star knob I've seen, has the bolt go all the way through. Hard to tell from the photos, but Stingy's star knobs look to be the same.
Mine had little rubber caps on the bolt ends. I'm guessing that they are automotive vacuum line caps put on by a previous owner ?
The caps can fall off, so the better options would be to cut the bolts shorter or use spacers like Stingy did. The spacers bring the knob lower for easier use, but would also allow the knob to cover the end of the bolt.
Having hair would be good since it would cover up the scars from the bolt end. Unfortunately it's not an option for me. hehe
What do you say we blow the dust off this Resto Thread huh? Sorry I've been laying low so long, Grad School keeps me busier than a one legged man is a butt kicking contest.
Crazy family tradition of mine, during Thanksgiving and Christmas holiday breaks we'd often get ourselves involved in some crazy DIY project... helps pass the time when you are giddy about the upcoming festivities or just want to get away from extended family. Anyway, laying some primer down on the decks. The plan is to have most everything primed (cabin top and fwd decks) before I go back to work on the 28th. Hopefully I can do the same to the cockpit on the New Years weekend break.
Crazy family tradition of mine, during Thanksgiving and Christmas holiday breaks we'd often get ourselves involved in some crazy DIY project... helps pass the time when you are giddy about the upcoming festivities or just want to get away from extended family. Anyway, laying some primer down on the decks. The plan is to have most everything primed (cabin top and fwd decks) before I go back to work on the 28th. Hopefully I can do the same to the cockpit on the New Years weekend break.
Sweet, just ordered 2 for our fore-deck hatch.
Amazing work, love this thread.
Some more priming work done on Christmas day... I rolled her out into the driveway for more room to work, the weather was fair, sunny and about 65 degrees today.
All of the primer is Interlux Pre Kote, but I tinted a quart of it grey for the decks where the nonskid will go later. I decided to pre-mask all the areas where the chain-plate eye bolts and life-line stanchions will go. I will prime those areas with white and topcoat with gloss white Brightsides. That way when they are eventually bedded they will have a smooth glossy surface to sit on rather than bedding into rough nonskid.
No real magic tricks to the masking, I just used a plastic cup that was slightly larger than the new-style chainplate eye-bolt bases will be. I made a cardboard template so I could fold one edge where the stays are close to the cabin top. On the Stanchion bases I just marked the base plate and then makes out a little farther, maybe 1/4" around.
All of the primer is Interlux Pre Kote, but I tinted a quart of it grey for the decks where the nonskid will go later. I decided to pre-mask all the areas where the chain-plate eye bolts and life-line stanchions will go. I will prime those areas with white and topcoat with gloss white Brightsides. That way when they are eventually bedded they will have a smooth glossy surface to sit on rather than bedding into rough nonskid.
No real magic tricks to the masking, I just used a plastic cup that was slightly larger than the new-style chainplate eye-bolt bases will be. I made a cardboard template so I could fold one edge where the stays are close to the cabin top. On the Stanchion bases I just marked the base plate and then makes out a little farther, maybe 1/4" around.
I took me a good hour and half at least to mask off the starboard side, I had already done the port side a few days ago. Now the decks are done from the bow back to the start of the cockpit.
So now there is two coats of grey primer on the decks, and another two coats of white on the cabin top and sides. Everything is done from bow to companionway except the toe rails. You'll notice there is no grey where the hand rails used to be next to the pop top. This area won't get non-skid, it will be gloss white. The lines led aft from my triple deck organizer to the triple clutches will take up all the space so you wouldn't be able to step there anyway.
Looking good so far, but lots of prep work to do in the cockpit!
Looking good so far, but lots of prep work to do in the cockpit!
Little look at the future... I decided that getting the window glass tinted and then buying the re-seal kit from CD will be more expensive than just buying a 24 x 48 sheet of 1/8" Dark Smoked Acrylic sheet. I had already made templates for the window cutouts when I did the 'filling the window gap' project, that old thread is here;
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...he-cabin-liner-gap-on-window-cut-outs.166850/
I used those templates to make paper templates that have a 1.25" overlap all around. The other day I got a sheet of 1/8" 'blackboard MDF and I transferred the paper pattern onto the MDF and cut out blanks to test fit;
Of course I drew the pattern upside down for the front window and the black side was facing inboard, so I just spray painted the other side gloss black, lol.
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...he-cabin-liner-gap-on-window-cut-outs.166850/
I used those templates to make paper templates that have a 1.25" overlap all around. The other day I got a sheet of 1/8" 'blackboard MDF and I transferred the paper pattern onto the MDF and cut out blanks to test fit;
Of course I drew the pattern upside down for the front window and the black side was facing inboard, so I just spray painted the other side gloss black, lol.
This is why we make templates of everything first! You can see they aren't lined up very well. Thats mostly because the only thing holding them in place is some masking tape on the inside and the front window is sagging much more than the back. I'll probably drill some big 2 inch holes in them so I can use clamps to get the fitment right. Anyway, the top edge of both windows align very well. The front seems to be good to go as is. In this next pic you'll see that even though the top long edge is square, the bottom needs to be trimmed... you can see how the gap between the bottom long edge and the deck diminishes as you approach the back corner. Hey, if thats all the trimming I need to do well then its not bad for the first test!
As critical as it is to get the shape on the outside right, working the details from the inside is just as important. The pattern of the cut-out is already traced on the inside of the templates. Obviously, since the wood is not transparent, thats the only way I'd be able to tell if I have it centered properly. After I drill the holes in the MDF so I can use proper clamps I'll use a white pencil to re-scribe that inside bottom edge. With that detail refined I should able to measure out the 1.25" overlap and recut that bottom edge and see if it follows the deck line correctly.
Ok, now with some holes in the template big enough to get proper quick clamps in I was able to trim the bottom edge so it sits fair to the deck line. I'll do the same to the front window tomorrow, then make sure they fit the same on the starboard side. If all goes well I'll pick up the acrylic sheet this week.
I had the day off today so I went out to San Diego Plastics Inc and got a 3/16" Acrylic Sheet, 48 x 48 inches for $75. I could have saved myself a few bucks if I had gone with 34 x 48 inches since that is all you need for 4 windows.
Got the sheet home and used my circular saw with a carbide tipped 60 tooth fine cut blade to cut out the patterns using the templates I made;
Got the sheet home and used my circular saw with a carbide tipped 60 tooth fine cut blade to cut out the patterns using the templates I made;
I used my bench top drum sander to shape the corners. Where the front and rear windows are close together in the middle I wanted the radius to match so I used a small stainless bowl to draw them. Now those four corners look right;
I clamped the port and starboard duplicate windows together as I sanded the corners to make sure they were identical. Everything came out pretty darn good. Here is a test fit with some masking tape. I won't be able to get to mounting them with the Dow Corning 795 until I topcoat the cabin with white Brightsides. Until then, I just wanted to get them shaped and mark the insides for easy alignment later;
