Hello all -
Does anyone out there have experience with converting a tiller control to a wheel style for 22s? First, I'm not sure it is completely advisable, as corrections and adjustments (especially in an emergent situation) will be slower. However, the radius the tiller sweeps out of the cockpit has been an inconvenience in situations where there are 3-4 tall crew members aboard. Additionally, I feel that if done right this may be a cheaper alternative to an autopilot for single handing.
Attached I've included two proposed designs. Both would be rear facing steering wheels, one is a pulley approach, the other a double u joint. I think there are some distinct disadvantages to the double u joint design.
Also the wheel conversion would require a kick-up rudder (as now I install/remove the rudder/tiller assembly with each sail and the more permanent wheel setup would make removal a chore) - so if anyone near the Annapolis/Baltimore area has a lead on a used kick-up 22 rudder, that would be great.
Welcome to the forums!
I applaud your curiosity and desire to improve upon things. I am a big guy, 6'3" 260 and personally appreciate the fact that a C22 cockpit can be kinda crowded for more than two people!!!
Of your two options, if you chose to pursue, the cable system is going to be easier to install, more forgiving in regards to critical angles, and easier to manage from a mechanical advantage standpoint. Having the wheel behind you is no big deal and it is easy to change how the wheel works by simply considering that the cables wound on the top-side of the pulley will act exactly backwards when compared to if they were wound where they exited the bottom of the pullley. Pull-pull helms are all over Craigslist and e-bay of you go look for a vintage outboard boat helm. they usually come complete with a bearing assembly that mounts to the "dash" and a pulley as well:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-cab..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item3ccd01f88a&vxp=mtr
I would not pursue the U-joint option. It is a complex installation and it will be a bear to sail, primarily due to the fact it is just like a tiller in terms of force... Follow me: There is no mechanical advantage provided, as the input to the tiller, (assuming the joints are lossless, and they aren't) is 1:1. If you had a 10" wheel you would be in effect pushing on a 5" long tiller to maintain control over the rudder...
SO.... To me, you present one good option and one bad option.
Now, there are ways to improve your current situation, at least as it relates to cockpit space. I like to try to use short tillers. Put simply they take up less room. It takes some setup changes to employ them comfortably though.
WEATHER HELM: the shorter the tiller, the more weather helm will affect the input force required to hold a course. There are three things I know of you can do to ease the force of weather helm.
1. Add area to the leading edge of the rudder. This is either done in the shop with fiberglass and itchiness, or by spending money on an Idasailor or similar balanced blade.
2. Crank up your keel some, (as shared earlier) to bring the underbody's center of effort/resistance aft. This is free financially, but raises the keel and lowers the righting moment of the keel. 3.
Rake your sailplan forward so that is is closer to being over the center of effort/resistance of the boat's underbody. This is the total freebie to me personally as I am more a cruiser than a racer and the slight reduction in performance is worth the trade-off compared to the comfort gained. On a previously owned 26' boat I had, I was able to comfortably sail her with an 18" tiller...
A WORD OF CAUTION: IF you fall off the boat, (IF) and you have removed all weather helm from the boat, she will keep sailing basically to the horizon or into the ground, whichever comes first... It is for that point that weather helm is desireable to a degree. If you are solo and go MOB, the boat with some weather helm will eventually round up and stall in irons, and with luck you can swim to the boat and, (hopefully) climb back aboard.
SO, after having written this long-winded treatsy based on my personal experience, I think you have two options. Go with the pull-pull cable system as you drew it and give it a go. It is fun to play and experiment and come up with new solutions that fit YOUR needs. If it doesn't work out you really have not done any permanent damage to the boat and you can back up to the original tiller arrangement and see about improving it for your needs. If making it shorter and reducing weather helm fits your needs, then you can pursue that next!!!!!
P.S. Know used tiller are a dime-a-dozen, most are split, but all you gotta do is glue them back, carefully and they can be made good as new. Leave your stock tiller as-is and shorten up a new one or a repaired one...