You keep buffing while slowly increasing the speed and reducing any pressure on the pad at the same time. The compound will be dry buffed away. It leaves a great shine but for a novice can be a tad risky if you don't do it right and keep the pad moving at all times....OK Maine - i will bite.
Do you have any info on how to do dry buffing ?
// Paul
Excellent! This tutorial was written for someone with no experience and I am always glad when it works for folks.... As you learned, the key is all the little details and the proper tools.....Lastly I did not have any previous experience at all when it came to running the polisher. This fall I will attack the smooth areas on the deck. I honestly can't wait!
That was duct tape only to keep rain out because the ports had been removed. You avoid hitting the tape with the pad spinning towards the edge only away... This will require "edging" the wheel near tape.. Makes all the difference.. I generally use Frog tape these days...Main Sail,
I've searched through your tutorial and related posts but not found the answer to this question.
What masking tape should I use besides blue or green painter's tape on surfaces next to where I'll be compounding?
I've been using those at the waterline and rub rail, but they don't stay in place for long if they get any pad action. In one of the pics in your tutorial, you have what looks like a wide, black tape over the windows. I'll be doing my cabin top and sides soon and would like to be able to get as close to the frames and non-skid as possible without fouling the pads from the aluminum or making a shiny edge on the non-skid.
Is there a better product out there? Seems like something similar to packing tape would work best.
Thanks,
$tingy
P600. I only use "P" paper...Thanks for the wonderful write-up. I've started doing by boat and I've noticed that there are 2 main systems for grit levels for sandpaper. There is CAMI (North American system) and FEPA (European system that has P designation before grit). The 2 are in sync up till about 240 grit and then are very different. 600 CAMI is the same as P1200.
Maine, when you are suggesting to use 600 as the lowest grit to start removing oxidization do you mean P600 as that would mean 440 CAMI?
thanks.
Depends on why polishing didn't work on those areas. In the short term, it would help but would require constant maintenance as the acrylic wears.Don, Followed Mainesails buffing and the hull on my 1990 C&C34+ came out good except for spots along the blue and red bootstripe. Do you think Island Girl would help?
I have vinyl top stripes, and want to remove them and possibly replace. How much vinyl can you remove with one of these?+1 for the 3M wheels. They make removing decals almost trivial and there is no worries about damaging the gelcoat.
Cheers,
Brad