Tips For A Great Buff & Wax

KingAirDriver · Apr 16, 2013

We also are getting ready to re-letter the transom on our new to us Catalina 27. We can still see the previous names (2) still ghosting in the gelcoat.

I have a borrowed buffer, a half gallon of Finesse it, 3M 600-2000 grit and a bottle of "Insulator Wax"

Also the boat is in the water. We only 'need' to do the transom before new lettering.

I think it should be okay, 1984 boat, doubt it was ever properly cleaned and waxed in the last 15+ years.

Thoughts on the "Insulator Wax"? We have been using with WONDERFUL success on the airplanes.

marchem · Apr 17, 2013

KingAirDriver said:
We also are getting ready to re-letter the transom on our new to us Catalina 27. We can still see the previous names (2) still ghosting in the gelcoat.

I have a borrowed buffer, a half gallon of Finesse it, 3M 600-2000 grit and a bottle of "Insulator Wax"

Also the boat is in the water. We only 'need' to do the transom before new lettering.

I think it should be okay, 1984 boat, doubt it was ever properly cleaned and waxed in the last 15+ years.

Thoughts on the "Insulator Wax"? We have been using with WONDERFUL success on the airplanes.

Doing the transom on our 1982 Catalina 27 in the water wasn't bad. Knee pads or a cushion to kneel on are nice to have. I used the #885; it was pretty easy to work with but got coated with soot quickly.

Rodd · Apr 21, 2013

Combo tape and plastic worked great!

Maine Sail said:
Looks very cool and a lot less labor intensive. Please let us know how it holds up, I've not used it.....

I used this product over this past Saturday, and want to report to the group that it worked flawlessly! It was a very windy day, and the tape held beautifully, despite the wind. All you have to do is undwind the tape and plastic together in a convenient dispenser. After you finish the area you want to tape, you use the built-in cutting edge and cut cleanly. The tape then unfolds down about a foot from the tape and makes a perfect skirt for draining the on/off from the topsides.

I can highly recommend this product-- and it's a great value!

Sefuller · May 18, 2013

Nu-Finish question

Debating whether to try Nu-Finish this year but I'm wondering if I will need to do anything different next spring before I polish and wax? Normally I wash then wipe with Toluene prior to polishing - is the Nu-Finish more difficult to remove?

Thanks,
Scott

sailcruiser · May 25, 2013

We followed MaineSail's how to last year with great results. This year after a coat of Presta Chroma and Fleetwax looks just as good or better.

A few people watched our progress and are planning to follow it too after watching our 30+ year old girl go from semi-chalky to sparkling.
SC

$tingy Sailor · Mar 3, 2014

I've read through this thread carefully a couple of times and I tried it on my transom last year but didn't get the results I expected. Is it possible that the gelcoat on my '81 C22 is simply too badly weathered? The PO didn't take particularly good care of it.

After wet sanding by hand twice with 500 grit, then 1000, then 3M Rubbing Compound on a slow DA w/foam pad, then 3M Color/Gloss Restorer (like FinesseIt) on the DA, then two coats of Collinite 885, it's semi-glossy at best. If I look at the suface closely with a magnifying glass, there are lots of tiny pits/scratches still. I'm reluctant to sand any deeper for fear of going through the gelcoat.

Before I take on the rest of the hull this Spring, how do you know when you've cut enough? I'd hate to cut completely through the gelcoat?

sailcruiser · Mar 4, 2014

I'm not sure how to answer on the sanding but was curious what type of buffer you were using? I started out with my existing but didn't see decent results so decided to try the Makita MS suggested since I originally had an inexpensive knockoff solution.

That made a huge difference for me. Does anyone have a good variable speed buffer you can borrow?

SC

$tingy Sailor · Mar 4, 2014

I bought the Harbor Freight DA that most everybody likes and that MS says is acceptable. Ran it on the 4 setting or less. Worked great on my wife's car. Don't know any friends with anything better.

Thinking that I might not have sanded enough or that my low-end sandpaper was wearing out prematurely, I got a Hookit interface pad and some good sandpaper discs from the local NAPA auto body supplier to try with the DA, very carefully. I've used a RO on woodworking projects for years, so I think I can control the DA on gelcoat, especially considering the hours I've spent already on just the transom and I have the rest of the hull to go.

But if it's possible that the gel coat has chalked all the way through, I'll lower my expectations.

Stu Jackson · Mar 4, 2014

Sorry, but I once was banned from this forum for using the shorthand RTFM - now standas for FUNNY.

How hard is it for FOLLOW everything in MS's description of How To Do It?

Geez....

$tingy Sailor · Mar 4, 2014

Maine Sail,
Thanks for the constructive, non-condescending advice.

[EDITED 6/26/14]
I bought a used Dewalt 849, the 3M compounding and polishing pads, and some Presta Ultra Cutting Crème. The results really are very different as can be seen in the attached photos. Notice the reflection of the fender strips and logo.

Sefuller · Mar 31, 2014

Polishing after using Nu-Finish?

Last year I put two coats of Nu-Finish on after polishing the hull. I did not apply anything prior to storage last fall, and I am wondering if I need to do anything to remove any remaining Nu-Finish prior to polishing this spring, or if I can go right to the Presta Ultra step? (I compounded in years prior and have nice shiny gelcoat at this point that just needs a light touch up.)

Thanks,
Scott

PKFK · May 10, 2014

Presto chroma polish question -

I have been using both presto ultra cutting cream and then the presto chroma polish - with a Dewalt speed controlled rotary buffer and 3m pads.

The cutting cream is super easy to work with - but I find the chroma polish to be a bit of a bear.

The chroma seems to end up being very hard to remove with a microfibrer rag after using the machine - is seems to end up with an almost clay like consistency on the hull and needs lots of elbow grease to remove.

I have tried misting the pad with a spray bottle - but too wet results in lots of sling.

I start polishing at 600 rpm, and then go up to 1400 - but at that point the pad seems to start depositing move and thicker amounts of polish. And removal as I said needs lots of elbow grease with a micro fiber rag.

I have tried both the 3m yellow wool pad as well as the 3m white foam pads.

Suggestions are welcome !!!

Thanks,

Paul

PKFK · May 10, 2014

Correction to the spell fixer errors in my previous post -

I was using PRESTA products - despite the incorrect wording helpfully added by the damm spell checker in my previous post !!

Paul

sesmith · May 11, 2014

PKFK said:
Presto chroma polish question -

I have been using both presto ultra cutting cream and then the presto chroma polish - with a Dewalt speed controlled rotary buffer and 3m pads.

The cutting cream is super easy to work with - but I find the chroma polish to be a bit of a bear.

The chroma seems to end up being very hard to remove with a microfibrer rag after using the machine - is seems to end up with an almost clay like consistency on the hull and needs lots of elbow grease to remove.

I have tried misting the pad with a spray bottle - but too wet results in lots of sling.

I start polishing at 600 rpm, and then go up to 1400 - but at that point the pad seems to start depositing move and thicker amounts of polish. And removal as I said needs lots of elbow grease with a micro fiber rag.

I have tried both the 3m yellow wool pad as well as the 3m white foam pads.

Suggestions are welcome !!!

Thanks,

Paul

My guess is you're using too much product. There shouldn't be much left to remove by hand. The Chroma is only for a final polish after using something like cutting cream first, so you don't have to use much (a silver dollar sized blob on the pad at most). Not sure if it makes much difference, but I use the green Presta pads with Chroma.

PKFK · May 11, 2014

Exactly !

I figured that out today finally. Vey small amounts of PRESTA chroma polish.

I was previously working based on Maine's photos - which showed a generous amount of product on the pad - basically an X and a + on the pad. - that is fine for the ultra cutting cream - but it is deadly when using the chroma polish - that seems to be waaaaay to much polish, and a recipe for a mess.

Maine - maybe you might want to edit your excellent instructions to advise folks to use a lot less chroma polish than the cutting cream.

Overall the look was superb - I had people coming up to the boat remarking on how fantastic the shine was !!

I used a Dewalt speed controlled buffer, plus The 3m pads, and PRESTA cutting cream lite and PRESTA chroma polish. Finished with the fleetwax 885. Extremely nice result !

HOWEVER - still looking for tips on the PRESTA polish to make it easier to handle !

Paul

Apex · May 12, 2014

Got to start working on the boat, THanks Maine for the article. Great look, the gel coat compound was too agressive and after one full day, cutting creme and wax will be all for this year. Next year polish and wax again, but the boat looks GREAT.

Fortunately a neighbor helped coach: and we started ?dry polishing? with the creme. Made all the difference and very little wiping at the end. I did spritz some water and go over again for the stubborn spots.

Tips For A Great Buff & Wax

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