The project moves forward...

[CloudDiver]

It's not quite done yet, but you get the idea...

I kind of wish I had done this when I saw Hawk do the same on his boat. I bought the Marelon version from CD ($22 each), but the flanges don't sit well on the inside of the cockpit because of that curve towards the sole.

I can't return the Marelon drain plugs because I already trimmed them to length. I do like the threaded plugs they have on them though. I can still change my mind and make glass tubes, they will sit in flush much nicer as you have shown. I'm sure any generic stopper can be used to plug them if needed. I dunno, I have plenty of time to think it over because I won't paint my transom until I flip her back over.

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2608_20/transom-drain--plug-assembly-c-22-c-27.cfm

 

[CloudDiver]

On second thought, your installation is also much better because the bottom of the hole is flush with the cockpit sole, ergo all the water can drain out. I had to make my holes a little higher to make up for the flange, so I'd still have a bit of water in the rear of the cockpit after it drains to the level of the tube...

Hmmm... I may have to fill the holes and start over!

 

[Time_Out]

Well, "all the water" is kind of relative, considering "all of it" would have to learn how to flow uphill!? But still, I like that they are so close to the cockpit floor.

 

[Time_Out]

More updates on the progress:
Scuppers installed, just need sanding and touch up painting,
Transducer housing (pvc pipe fitting, wire to pass thru the lid, and then fill with mineral spirits),
Pop top lift kit, and first of the dog latches.
Had an unexpected opportunity to get some work in on it today. Man that feels good to make some progress!

 

[Time_Out]

I'll sure be glad when the SBO iPhone app gets fixed so I can share multiple pics without it crashing.

 

[Time_Out]

Scuppers

 

[Time_Out]

Lift kit. The last lift kit I installed was on my Jeep?

 

[hawk232]

scuppers look good Jerry! I cant comment on the lift kit, I have no pop top

cloud- mine are not flush with the floor intentionally. since all of the water cant drain out of the back (floor slopes forward) we are all just installing these to get water below the companionway level as fast as possible, any level below that makes this happen. I intentionally mounted mine ~3/8" high to hopefully help prevent items from just rolling out of the back of the boat! I can totally see myself dropping something and watching it roll right into the drink!!

 

[CloudDiver]

I had never considered the intended purpose being to just drain the water below the companion way level faster, but it makes total sense now. If your forward cockpit scuppers were clogged or close the sea cock while in the slip your cockpit could possibly fill up during a down pour. I'm sure taking a big wave in rough weather is the more likely scenario to flooding the cockpit enough to over take the companion way, but in either case the transom scuppers virtually eliminate that threat.

I forgot that the cockpit floor slopes forward. I had thought because of the C22 being stern heavy it might level out or tilt the other direction when under sail... but that is a silly idea since sail power drives a displacement hull bow-in to the water. Ha Ha, its not a power boat where you can pull your transom plug and hit the gas to drain the bilge, lol!

I'm considering putting some glass tubes in anyway and then still putting the Marelon units in inside them. Maybe overkill, but I'm worried at some point that water could get past the sealant and there is a gap between the cockpit liner and transom. I have a plan to use small sanding discs on my angle grinder to relieve the fiberglass just a little so the flanges seat flush. I'll have to do that soon after I flip the hull back over because I can't paint the transom until that epoxy work is done.

scuppers look good Jerry! I cant comment on the lift kit, I have no pop top

cloud- mine are not flush with the floor intentionally. since all of the water cant drain out of the back (floor slopes forward) we are all just installing these to get water below the companionway level as fast as possible, any level below that makes this happen. I intentionally mounted mine ~3/8" high to hopefully help prevent items from just rolling out of the back of the boat! I can totally see myself dropping something and watching it roll right into the drink!!

 

[Time_Out]

Yes, I'm still at it. I've been working on the trailer and the mast lately. Both are coming along. We've had a lot of weather to dodge, a storage unit door that broke, and my business has gotten busy too, which is a good thing, as it funds the addiction to boat stuff! I'll try to do a better job of keeping this thread updated.

First off, the trailer. It's progressing nicely, and the painting is done. It's so nice to see things actually move to the done column instead of perpetually staying as something still needed yet! One note on the trailer paint, I used Rustoleum primer and then their gloss white over that. For the final touch up, I mixed in some polymeric non-skid compound into the paint and went over the top edges of the trailer's perimeter frame, as well as the fenderwells. This is the same stuff I used on the non-skid on the deck, and I love the way it turns out! It has enough abrasive to keep you from slipping, without turning the surface into a meat grinder,should it contact bare skin. Now stepping up over the fenderwells will be much safer, and will still match the rest of the paint. Time will tell how close it looks to the Brightsides Blue-glo white that the topsides are painted with.
I installed the new keel guide boards last night also, still need to put on the water hose cushions yet. The lights are on, but haven't yet run the wiring. Still need the new bunks and reinstall the winch. But we're closer than we've ever been to a launch! But after missing another target date, im thinking I'll just wait till I'm done with it before I do any more date setting.

 

[ShotgunSlim]

Nice job!!

 

[shaubby]

Keel Guides

Do you have the dimensions for the keel guides on your trailer? My trailer is not equipped and I'd like to add them before haul out at the end of the season. Thanks.

 

[Time_Out]

I can get them for you easy enough!
Next time I'm over there I'll take measurements and share them with you.

 

[Time_Out]

So here's a funny story that happened when I was working on the boat last. This guy is driving around the storage unit facility and stops and asks, "How on earth did you get a boat that size in the storage unit to begin with!?"
So I told him, " you put them in there when they're little, and then you feed them and they grow!"
Couldn't resist! ?

 

[spartacus99]

Nice!,good looking trailer bud.

 

[shaubby]

I can get them for you easy enough!
Next time I'm over there I'll take measurements and share them with you.

Thanks!

 

[Time_Out]

keel guide measurements

Do you have the dimensions for the keel guides on your trailer? My trailer is not equipped and I'd like to add them before haul out at the end of the season. Thanks.

Hi Shaubby,
I'm going to take a stab at this. I don't consider myself a technical writer, so please bear with my descriptions.
The perimeter frame rail of my trailer is made from 1.5"x4" c-channel steel.
The upper keel guide frames are made of 2.5"x2.5" angle iron.
The keel guide height from the lower A-shaped frame to the upper one is about 12.5".
The length of the upper keel guide frame rail is about 62".
There is a cross member frame brace that goes from side to side, and it is positioned 56.25" from the rear corner of the trailer. It has a bend in it to lower the middle by about 6.25". The outside width of the frame at this brace is 71".
At the rear of the trailer, the outside frame width at the bunk towers (very corners of the trailer) is 70.25", and inside width is about 63.75".
The axle is positioned about 64.25" forward from the rear corners.
The keel guide bunks that I used are made of a 2"x8"x10' board that I just cut in half. I used one of my angle grinders with a sanding flap wheel to round the nose of the bunk boards after I cut a 45 degree angle on it.
My plan is to use garden hose for the "rub rails" on the bunks themselves. I figure I will slit them open, screw them on with the slit facing down, and have a bunch of rows of them. (I plagiarized this idea from a couple of boats I saw at the Arlington Yacht Club just before it closed.) This should provide good protection for the keel, prevent the screw heads from scratching, allow for better water drainage than carpeting, and slide better to boot. Add a layer of wax and don't bother to buff it out, and I can't see it not working.

By the way, please use these measurements as a starting place to get an idea. Mocking things up using cardboard and 1x's will provide the proof of concept for the design you use, and may prevent making unnecessary mistakes.

Hope this helps.

Best wishes,

Jerry

 

[shaubby]

Hi Shaubby,
I'm going to take a stab at this. I don't consider myself a technical writer, so please bear with my descriptions.
The perimeter frame rail of my trailer is made from 1.5"x4" c-channel steel.
The upper keel guide frames are made of 2.5"x2.5" angle iron.
The keel guide height from the lower A-shaped frame to the upper one is about 12.5".
The length of the upper keel guide frame rail is about 62".
There is a cross member frame brace that goes from side to side, and it is positioned 56.25" from the rear corner of the trailer. It has a bend in it to lower the middle by about 6.25". The outside width of the frame at this brace is 71".
At the rear of the trailer, the outside frame width at the bunk towers (very corners of the trailer) is 70.25", and inside width is about 63.75".
The axle is positioned about 64.25" forward from the rear corners.
The keel guide bunks that I used are made of a 2"x8"x10' board that I just cut in half. I used one of my angle grinders with a sanding flap wheel to round the nose of the bunk boards after I cut a 45 degree angle on it.
My plan is to use garden hose for the "rub rails" on the bunks themselves. I figure I will slit them open, screw them on with the slit facing down, and have a bunch of rows of them. (I plagiarized this idea from a couple of boats I saw at the Arlington Yacht Club just before it closed.) This should provide good protection for the keel, prevent the screw heads from scratching, allow for better water drainage than carpeting, and slide better to boot. Add a layer of wax and don't bother to buff it out, and I can't see it not working.

By the way, please use these measurements as a starting place to get an idea. Mocking things up using cardboard and 1x's will provide the proof of concept for the design you use, and may prevent making unnecessary mistakes.

Hope this helps.

Best wishes,

Jerry

This is great! Thanks so much for taking the time to grab the measurements, Jerry. I'll mock it up as suggested before I begin the fab work, but it at least helps me get a sense of what is needed.

Adam

 

[Time_Out]

Working on my keel today. It's in pretty good shape, just needs to sand lightly and paint the barrier coats on it.

 

[Time_Out]

It's coming along!
I must say, Interlux makes good paint. I'm using their Epoxy Barrier-Kote, which I know I bought about 12 years ago. I was a little concerned that it might have hardened in the can, and in fact, I didn't feel it move when I was shaking it. Opened it up and pushed my stir stick down into what more closely resembled silly putty, but felt that I had nothing to lose by giving it a try. Stirred for what seemed like forever, and it regained its creamy consistency. And once iris thinned it goes on pretty nicely. I didn't do any fairing to the keel, as it had been done by the previous owner. Next winter I might drop the keel and do a bottom job on Time Out, but for now, it just needs to get wet!