The project moves forward...
- Thread starter Time_Out
- Start date
Thanks guys,
Unfortunately, there's a dark cloud on the horizon. I discovered some hull damage under where the bunks support the boat. I'm familiar enough with fiberglass repair now to recognize areas that have been damaged and extend into the substrate. So I guess I'll be getting all the sanders back out and diving in. And I thought I was so close, too.
Alas, hope springs eternal in the heart of this landlocked sailor, and if things go well...
"Time Out" will float again, and I will get past this endless refurb as long as I don't quit!
I'll post pics soon so you can see what I'm talking about.
Unfortunately, there's a dark cloud on the horizon. I discovered some hull damage under where the bunks support the boat. I'm familiar enough with fiberglass repair now to recognize areas that have been damaged and extend into the substrate. So I guess I'll be getting all the sanders back out and diving in. And I thought I was so close, too.
Alas, hope springs eternal in the heart of this landlocked sailor, and if things go well...
"Time Out" will float again, and I will get past this endless refurb as long as I don't quit!
I'll post pics soon so you can see what I'm talking about.
Take a look at this. This is the worst of the damaged areas. There are what looks like blisters where the bunks supported the hull. This boat spent its entire life stored on the trailer, so the fact that it still got blisters under the bunks is a wake up call to us all to never let our bunks get so deteriorated that they begin to dry rot. See the pics in the posts above. Apparently this allows the wood to hold the moisture against the hull and create the blistering. Not good for either the trailer or the boat. My job just got bigger.
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If your boat has always been dry sailed (which is evident by the gelcoat bottom and no bottom paint) it is very surprising to see blisters... I am shocked. Osmotic blistering takes years to form, as I understand it, but it seems that the variables for this to occur just under the gelcoat where the bunks make contact is a different story. No need to get too deep into speculation as to how or why, rather just address the issue in the most cost effective manner.
Since the gelcoat is polyester resin based it is just as water permeable as the fiberglass. I doubt the blistering goes into the GRP, it is just in between the gelcoat and GRP. The cracking in the gelcoat is most likely a combination of stress from the bunks and temperature swings adding to expansion and contraction.
I would use an engraving bit on a dremel to grind out just the crack lines. No need to go deep or beyond the crack itself. For the blisters, just use the dremel with a sanding drum and lightly take off the gelcoat blister. No need to sand into the fiberglass unless you 'pop' the blister and find that nasty goo that smells like styrene.
You won't need resin or cloth or resin filler for the blisters unless you find the need to dig into the GRP. Even if you do, don't go very deep and be sure to use a polyester resin based filler, NOT epoxy.
To replace the gelcoat in the crack lines and blisters, go Spectrum gelcoat website. The patch paste kits are factory color matched and only $28 for 2oz, plenty to fill those cracks and blisters in one shot. Easy to use, the patch paste is a thick consistency that won't sag. Slightly overfill using a plastic spreader and then wet-sand 200, 400, 600 and buff. Its easier than you might think.
When you grind out the blisters I'd suggest letting them dry out for a week, a heat lamp would be helpful but keep an eye on the surface temp, don't leave the lamp overnight and burn down your shop!
Link to Spectrum Color Catalina factory color Gel Paste kits;
http://www.spectrumcolor.com/Items.aspx?code=K&key=cat
Since the gelcoat is polyester resin based it is just as water permeable as the fiberglass. I doubt the blistering goes into the GRP, it is just in between the gelcoat and GRP. The cracking in the gelcoat is most likely a combination of stress from the bunks and temperature swings adding to expansion and contraction.
I would use an engraving bit on a dremel to grind out just the crack lines. No need to go deep or beyond the crack itself. For the blisters, just use the dremel with a sanding drum and lightly take off the gelcoat blister. No need to sand into the fiberglass unless you 'pop' the blister and find that nasty goo that smells like styrene.
You won't need resin or cloth or resin filler for the blisters unless you find the need to dig into the GRP. Even if you do, don't go very deep and be sure to use a polyester resin based filler, NOT epoxy.
To replace the gelcoat in the crack lines and blisters, go Spectrum gelcoat website. The patch paste kits are factory color matched and only $28 for 2oz, plenty to fill those cracks and blisters in one shot. Easy to use, the patch paste is a thick consistency that won't sag. Slightly overfill using a plastic spreader and then wet-sand 200, 400, 600 and buff. Its easier than you might think.
When you grind out the blisters I'd suggest letting them dry out for a week, a heat lamp would be helpful but keep an eye on the surface temp, don't leave the lamp overnight and burn down your shop!
Link to Spectrum Color Catalina factory color Gel Paste kits;
http://www.spectrumcolor.com/Items.aspx?code=K&key=cat
Thanks Luke,
Strange as it may seem, I think the most cost effective repair for me is to use what I have on hand from all the other work I've done on the boat. That includes West System Epoxy, multiple types of glass cloth, Interlux Epoxy Barrier Kote paint, and then I'm thinking I'll go ahead and paint the Interlux VC Offshore on after that.
After working over the topsides, deck, and interior, I hadn't planned on doing all this to the bottom, since it felt pretty nice, and my uncle said that he and his buddy had spent over a month polishing the bottom and fairing the keel a couple years before I got the boat. So finding all these cracks was pretty discouraging, I've got to admit.
The boat hasn't seen any water in over 12 years, so I don't expect there will be any moisture whatsoever. In fact several of the blisters really look like they have cracked and shriveled! Since the boat is off the trailer already, there really isn't any better time to address this issue than right now, and work is a little slower this week, so I may get a few days to do this.
I am very curious though, why do you say not to use epoxy?
Strange as it may seem, I think the most cost effective repair for me is to use what I have on hand from all the other work I've done on the boat. That includes West System Epoxy, multiple types of glass cloth, Interlux Epoxy Barrier Kote paint, and then I'm thinking I'll go ahead and paint the Interlux VC Offshore on after that.
After working over the topsides, deck, and interior, I hadn't planned on doing all this to the bottom, since it felt pretty nice, and my uncle said that he and his buddy had spent over a month polishing the bottom and fairing the keel a couple years before I got the boat. So finding all these cracks was pretty discouraging, I've got to admit.
The boat hasn't seen any water in over 12 years, so I don't expect there will be any moisture whatsoever. In fact several of the blisters really look like they have cracked and shriveled! Since the boat is off the trailer already, there really isn't any better time to address this issue than right now, and work is a little slower this week, so I may get a few days to do this.
I am very curious though, why do you say not to use epoxy?
The only reason that I said don't use epoxy was that I thought you might be continuing to dry sail with no bottom paint, ergo you would just repair the cracks and blisters with gel coat paste. Gelcoat will not stick to epoxy, that's why you'd have to use polyester resin or filler in any repair where gelcoat would go over it.
If you are planning to epoxy barrier coat and then bottom paint then epoxy for the repairs is just fine.
BTW, I don't know why you would fiberglass tape... the GRP hull should not be cracked, all you should be worried about is the crazing and blisters which just need a grind out and fairing with epoxy filler.
If you are planning to epoxy barrier coat and then bottom paint then epoxy for the repairs is just fine.
BTW, I don't know why you would fiberglass tape... the GRP hull should not be cracked, all you should be worried about is the crazing and blisters which just need a grind out and fairing with epoxy filler.
I didn't realize that gel coat wouldn't stick to epoxy, or at least I may have forgotten that. Good info to know!
As for the cracks, they seem to be more like those that were present on my sliding companionway hatch. In that case, they did go all the way through the glass layup. I'll hopefully know more tomorrow when I get back out there and work on it some more.
As for the cracks, they seem to be more like those that were present on my sliding companionway hatch. In that case, they did go all the way through the glass layup. I'll hopefully know more tomorrow when I get back out there and work on it some more.
Yes, fortunately they were cosmetic. After sanding, I glassed over them and faired them, used 1 or 2 layers of cloth, depending on their size, and ended up covering almost all of one side bunk contact area with at least one layer.
It turned out fairly well, but I'm sorry I didn't get any pics before I started painting. Going over to get the fourth coat on this morning, and then hopefully this evening I can begin painting the VC Offshore paint.
It turned out fairly well, but I'm sorry I didn't get any pics before I started painting. Going over to get the fourth coat on this morning, and then hopefully this evening I can begin painting the VC Offshore paint.
Great to hear.
After painting, what's next on the list ? A lot more or will you be sailing soon ?
After painting, what's next on the list ? A lot more or will you be sailing soon ?
Hmm, let's see, this morning i got the 4th barrier coat on everything that could be reached, so maybe this evening after I get back from helping with VBS, i can get the 1st coat of VC Offshore on. 2nd coat tomorrow afternoon after we get done with the work that has piled up. I was able to run the two pull strings in the mast conduit, so I just need to run the wire for the deck/steaming light, and the antenna, cut in my two double exit blocks, replace the sheaves and run the new internal halyards. At that point, the mast should be completed, and these things I'm planning to do between painting. Once the second coat of VC is on, I'll reinstall the swing keel and put the boat back on the trailer. Paint the areas I couldn't get to before, touch up the scratches in the cockpit, put the mast up, and make sure all the controls are functional, and THEN! Take it to the lake!
Maybe I'm overly optimistic, but I'm still expecting to do all this by Tuesday, if possible. It's going to mean every spare minute that I can muster between now and then. And I'm already having serious withdrawals from not sailing! The last time I was on a sailboat was last October. I keep telling myself, just keep going, you're almost there!
*Sigh*
Jerry
Maybe I'm overly optimistic, but I'm still expecting to do all this by Tuesday, if possible. It's going to mean every spare minute that I can muster between now and then. And I'm already having serious withdrawals from not sailing! The last time I was on a sailboat was last October. I keep telling myself, just keep going, you're almost there!
*Sigh*
Jerry
Jerry,
"Almost there"
I said that to myself yesterday... before I got set back a couple days again. sigh
We're all in a similar boat.
"Almost there"
I said that to myself yesterday... before I got set back a couple days again. sigh
We're all in a similar boat.
Got the keel back on. Made new spacers from 1/2" King Starboard, used the new pin that came with the keel hangar kit, but kept the original castings. There was no wear on the pin or the keel, thankfully. The final coats of bottom paint have been applied to the hull and keel, now to dry overnight, and put it back on the trailer tomorrow. Then I can paint the areas I couldn't get to before. There are fewer things left on the "to-do" list now, and that feels good!
