I love the way you did the name, great choice of font and colors. Can't wait to see pics of her sitting on the water!
The project moves forward...
- Thread starter Time_Out
- Start date
LED lights
"really like an article that I read recently in either Cruising World or Sail magazine on installing LED strip lighting in the cabin. Seems fairly simple and low cost, so I'll probably be doing that too."
Time_Out,
I used a 100 bulb x 35' string, voltage regulator board to change from AC to DC, and a dimmer switch mounted just inside the companionway. It was way more work than planned, it always is, but was worth it. The board and half the dimmer box are mounted inside the wall next to fuse panel.
"really like an article that I read recently in either Cruising World or Sail magazine on installing LED strip lighting in the cabin. Seems fairly simple and low cost, so I'll probably be doing that too."
Time_Out,
I used a 100 bulb x 35' string, voltage regulator board to change from AC to DC, and a dimmer switch mounted just inside the companionway. It was way more work than planned, it always is, but was worth it. The board and half the dimmer box are mounted inside the wall next to fuse panel.
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Amazing looking paint job on Time Out! That's gotta feel quite good to see the end of a huge project like that, especially when it turns out that nice.
Also, I like the led cabin lights, mrducks. Looks like plenty of light in there.
Also, I like the led cabin lights, mrducks. Looks like plenty of light in there.
Still plugging away. We now have the new keel winch cable replaced, new turning ball, and keel winch modified with a larger drum by a welder friend of mine. Hose cut to length. Scupper drain pipe and valve replaced. New bow eye with the nice stainless steel shield from CD installed. Aft cleats installed. Now it really seems like it's coming together! There's still a long list of items to finish, but it's getting there!
Ok more pics for anyone interested. This week's progress included installing the anchor roller/stem fitting, stem reinforcement, forward mooring cleats, jib sheet winches and cam cleats, new swim ladder (all with 16 gauge stainless backing plates) new 1/2" rudder gudgeons, and still working on one pesky pintle that appears to have been glued into the kick up rudder casting. Need to change it over to the new 1/2" size yet. Are there any special precautions I should know about before trying a torch to melt the glue (possibly J-B Weld)? It's a cast aluminum part, and I am only planning to use just enough heat to melt glue/resin. If it is J-B Weld, doesn't it still have a lower melting point than aluminum?
Another question I'd like to get input on: I haven't yet filled in the hole for the stock bow navigation light, is there any reason I shouldn't? I have the new LED light to be mounted on the pulpit and have already run the wire. Is there any known reliability issues with the LED capsules that make them unsuitable for navigation? If so, then it may make sense to install a backup in the original location. But that raises questions of its own, as it is so close to where the anchor rode would be.
Another question I'd like to get input on: I haven't yet filled in the hole for the stock bow navigation light, is there any reason I shouldn't? I have the new LED light to be mounted on the pulpit and have already run the wire. Is there any known reliability issues with the LED capsules that make them unsuitable for navigation? If so, then it may make sense to install a backup in the original location. But that raises questions of its own, as it is so close to where the anchor rode would be.
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Fwd Nav light
I wouldn't worry about filling that hole in, just do it. Overall, your new LED bow light will be far more reliable than incandescent bulbs. LEDs last thousands of hours longer and the modules are usually waterproof. Worst case in the event of a failure, carry a spare LED module to swap out. Also, even if you left the deck mount hole putting a spare light in there won't be effective since the bow roller and forestay block its visibility. I'm using the same set up you have except I got the CD forestay mount with the tang.
I wouldn't worry about filling that hole in, just do it. Overall, your new LED bow light will be far more reliable than incandescent bulbs. LEDs last thousands of hours longer and the modules are usually waterproof. Worst case in the event of a failure, carry a spare LED module to swap out. Also, even if you left the deck mount hole putting a spare light in there won't be effective since the bow roller and forestay block its visibility. I'm using the same set up you have except I got the CD forestay mount with the tang.
Thanks CloudDiver, I know the claims of how long LEDs are supposed to last, but I've also seen my results come in quite less than advertised, particularly with their use in flashlights. The location of the old one makes me wonder how it was ever visible in the first place. Guess I'll just it worry about the backup option and maybe instead just carry a flashlight based one as backup if I really decide it's necessary.
By the way, today would have been an ideal day for a launch. Low 70's and nice breezes.
Have to keep reminding myself that there will be more days like this yet to come. Now, back to the boat... Today the new plastic rails for the sliding companionway, and new motor mount get installed. Who knows what else!
By the way, today would have been an ideal day for a launch. Low 70's and nice breezes.
Have to keep reminding myself that there will be more days like this yet to come. Now, back to the boat... Today the new plastic rails for the sliding companionway, and new motor mount get installed. Who knows what else!
Bulkheads and compression post are installed, work on the wiring is progressing, and the rudder is done. It's a race against the clock to see if we can get it launched Christmas Day! Still focusing on making sure everything is done right, not just quick!
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Wishing each of you a very Merry Christmas! May peace, love, joy, and fair winds surround you throughout the year ahead!
As promised, here are the pics of the new chain plate straps that I made. I used unpolished stainless 2x2 angle and 1/8" x 2" bar stock. 1/2" hole on the top for the new chain plate bolts, 3/8" bolt and J-B Weld to join the two, bent the offset into the flat bar stock and bolted to the bulkheads using 3 5/16" bolts per side. The bulkheads are secured along the sides and bottom, and have a small gap along the top edge. This will serve as my indication that all is well, as long as this gap remains. But I believe the forces will be sufficiently dispersed by this method. Please feel free to weigh in on anything you see that could be done differently or better!
I was aiming for a launch today, but got derailed by trailer title issues that still need to be resolved.
Oh well, still stuff left to work on.
Cheers,
Jerry
As promised, here are the pics of the new chain plate straps that I made. I used unpolished stainless 2x2 angle and 1/8" x 2" bar stock. 1/2" hole on the top for the new chain plate bolts, 3/8" bolt and J-B Weld to join the two, bent the offset into the flat bar stock and bolted to the bulkheads using 3 5/16" bolts per side. The bulkheads are secured along the sides and bottom, and have a small gap along the top edge. This will serve as my indication that all is well, as long as this gap remains. But I believe the forces will be sufficiently dispersed by this method. Please feel free to weigh in on anything you see that could be done differently or better!
I was aiming for a launch today, but got derailed by trailer title issues that still need to be resolved.
Oh well, still stuff left to work on.
Cheers,
Jerry
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So I'm in the middle of an experiment regarding the aft cockpit scuppers on this 1975 boat. My uncle (the PO) had installed some of his own design using pvc coupler fittings installed with caulking of some type. These were removed during the prepping and painting phase and now must be replaced. Since the hole size is most likely not what is needed for the Catalina Direct brass tubes, I decided to make my own from fiberglass. The first thing I needed was a tube of suitable diameter to use to wrap layers of glass cloth around to layup the new tubes. Found one that was within 1/8" of the opening, and got to it. In the pics that follow, you'll see how it turned out. I was surprised how rigid the tube I made was, and the layup thickness was a fairly uniform 3/32". I have tried now to post this update several times but the iPhone app keeps crashing with multiple pics.
