So It Begins: Deck Recoring Project

[nramsey]

Very impressive workmanship!
I need to to replace some core around the shrouds.
Did you consider cutting the top fibreglass off in sections and reusing it?

 

[SailingCal21]

Thanks nramsey. Small sections may be easier to do that way particularly if you’re planning to replicate the existing pattern. Karma’s deck had so many stress cracks that I went for wholesale removal.
If you look closely at the “gut” pile, you’ll see that many of the sections shattered upon removal. Where the core was saturated removal was easy, but not so easy where the core was only wet. It’s amazing how tenacious even a wet core is.

 

[Arrgh]

Empty your wallet.

True!

 

[rajhnsn]

If the new sections are thicker, will it line up correctly with the existing section?

 

[SailingCal21]

I’m faring out the differences. Not much more than 1/16”. Where there’s more I’m using strips to maintain the same camber.
In the section that I’m currently working (about the last 8’ on the port side) there was significant difference (perhaps 1/4”) where the cabin meets the deck. In those areas I’m laminating multiple layers of various widths in order to taper down to the rail.

 

[SailingCal21]

Greetings, it's been awhile. The weather got colder quicker than I planned, so turned my attention west to ski as well as helped a friend get his boat down the ICW on his way to FL. I was able to finish fiber glassing and fairing the last section of the aft port side. It got too cold however to prime and paint. I did order some accelerator (AwlGrip M-3066) so was able to prime during marginal temps... that stuff works really fast.

To date I've got the first two layers of topcoat down. Next up will be applying the nonskid once I've masked off the non-nonskid sections.

I believe that I'll be finished in another 8 weeks, weather willin'

 

[SailingCal21]

The saga continues. Last section of the portside masked off and ready to apply the SoftSand non-skid.


... note the unmasked hole. Had a bit of a oopsie when trying to locate the stanchion mount location

Non-skid down, prior to removing the masking tape. I find that Scotch Fine Line Tape 218 keeps the edges crisp. It's expensive so I use a combination of it and 3M Automotive Refinish Masking Tape. Not so pleased with the green and blue stuff, so use it for filler.



The hard part was drilling the 30 some holes for the jib car track and other hardware, in the pristine deck.


Studying Bedding Deck Hardware With Bed-IT Tape - Marine How To want to make sure that it's done right. So far everything that I've used butyl on has been leak free. I've even been using it to plug exposed holes whilst wait to install other deck hardware.

 

[Clutch Cargo]

Very impressive!!

 

[SailingCal21]

Had a productive few (dry) days.
Got the shroud U-bolts and deck fills (water and waste). There was no protection for the balsa core, the U-bolts didn’t show any signs of water infiltration, the deck fills however did.



The gut pile grows.


This is the deck with new balsa core and coosa placed where deck penetrations are. I replaced the marine plywood at the cap shroud penetration.


Was able to glass the core as well. I learned the hard way to cover the core ASAP to prevent moisture intrusion into the exposed core from dew and/or rain.

 

[SailingCal21]

Starting on the last section of Karma's deck. Thought that I'd post the completed port section (sans stanchions) along with the starboard section after the hardware removal.

 

[eherlihy]

I've been away for a while, but THANK YOU @SailingCal21 for documenting this process, and thank you for documenting it here (where it can be searched and referenced in the future) and not on FaceBook. You will KNOW that the job was done right, or you'll know who to yell at for doing a shoddy job. You are also making this less daunting for any of us that follow in your wake.

Questions;

1. Did you consider replacing the embedded aluminum plates with G10? If I were to undertake this task, that would be my first choice.
2. Around where the deck fittings mount, I would have placed a ring/bead of West System's Six-10 as a barrier in case of future water intrusion.
3. Also, way back at the beginning of the thread you spent time and energy cleaning up the old fasteners. Why not simply replace them?

 

[SailingCal21]

I've been away for a while, but THANK YOU @SailingCal21 for documenting this process, and thank you for documenting it here (where it can be searched and referenced in the future) and not on FaceBook. You will KNOW that the job was done right, or you'll know who to yell at for doing a shoddy job. You are also making this less daunting for any of us that follow in your wake.

Welcome back. Thanks for the words of encouragement. It has been a daunting task (on month 13 of a estimated 9 month project ), but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'm trying not to think about the other deferred periodic maintenance projects (bottom painting, stuffing box repacking, fluid changing, etc) till the current task is completed.

Questions;
1. Did you consider replacing the embedded aluminum plates with G10? If I were to undertake this task, that would be my first choice.

I left the aluminum plates in place, but will improve the backing by installing 1/4" G10 along with thickened epoxy from the underside at each stanchion base. For the majority of the deck penetration areas I've used Coosa in lieu of balsa to eliminate the possibility of rot due to water intrusion. Originally, the cap shroud and jib car track had marine plywood which I've replaced with the same. After comparing the compressive specs for alternatives, I found that marine plywood specs to be better than or exceed alternatives, they've been encapsulated with epoxy to mitigate rot due to water intrusion. I'd be concerned about using thickened epoxy products as a sealant as it wouldn't have the "self healing" properties that butyl tape exhibits.

2. Around where the deck fittings mount, I would have placed a ring/bead of West System's Six-10 as a barrier in case of future water intrusion.

I'm using copious amounts of butyl tape around the fittings. I've found it to be the best to prevent water intrusion and to maintain flexibility over time. I've also masked off the areas where hardware is installed so that there's no non-skid under any fitting. My thinking is that the rough surface under each fitting is a source for eventual water intrusion, unlike a mostly flat mating surface

3. Also, way back at the beginning of the thread you spent time and energy cleaning up the old fasteners. Why not simply replace them?

Yes, that was pretty much a waste of time... educational, but a waste. Also, considering that I've added 1/4" backing plates, most fasteners now need to be somewhat longer. McMaster-Carr has been a godsend for sourcing SS fasteners and accessories.