So It Begins: Deck Recoring Project

[eherlihy]

I have used the mold to complete a small repair of my deck. It really wasn't very hard to do: essentially (and I am simplifying) you position the mold so that it lines up with the existing pattern, press the mold into freshly applied gelcoat, allow the gelcoat to cure, then peel the mold off. However, because you are starting with essentially a clean deck, without a pattern matching point, I can see where the textured paint is easier to do. I think that your posted results look awesome!

Curious; did you consider any of the plastic teak decking alternatives? (EVA or PVC)

 

[SailingCal21]

...

Curious; did you consider any of the plastic teak decking alternatives? (EVA or PVC)

Not really, I was concerned with expense and longevity. I'm sure that they are fine, just have no experience with them... of course now you're making me take another look at them

 

[SailingCal21]

Got 2 of the shroud u-bolts off and have started to research getting replacements. The two that I have removed are in pretty good shape, once I cleaned them up:
Definitely stainless steel and don't see any evidence of crevice corrosion. I would have expected to see some around the shank and threads as the core was very wet particularity on the larger cap shroud bolt. I'm thinking that the sealant must have kept the moisture at bay?



I've taken measurements to forward to potential fabricators.

There was plywood (instead of balsa). While the fibers were not mush, the adhesive had long since left the area . I'm planning on using Coosa under all deck penetrations, however since I found plywood under the cap shroud bolt have decided to replace with 1/2" marine ply. Coosa structural specs don't compare to marine plywood.


Here's my solution to keeping the mast pointed the right way with the port foward lower and cap shroud disconnected. The other side of the cargo straps are fixed to the down post of the stands on the starboard side.

 

[dmax]

Your U-bolt chainplates look like they're in decent shape - I couldn't get mine out of the aluminum blocks because of the SS-Aluminum corrosion so I had to cut them and twist each half out. If you need replacements, I had Garhauer Marine make some up for a third the price of Rig-Rite (the only source for original Navtec ones) - they are of a superior design as well, with larger plates welded to the U-Bolts and beautifully done.

 

[SailingCal21]

Your U-bolt chainplates look like they're in decent shape - I couldn't get mine out of the aluminum blocks because of the SS-Aluminum corrosion so I had to cut them and twist each half out.

Thanks, I was wondering if the boys at O'Day had embedded aluminum plates for this application as they have done for the stanchions. Good to know. I'll do a bit more digging to excavate them. I presume then that I'll also find embedded aluminum in the jib track area as well.

I have been in contact with Mike at Garhauer and have forwarded my dimension drawing. I've posted some of my exploits on the O'Day 34,35-40 group on Facebook there seems to be a market for the U-bolts.

 

[dmax]

Mike made my chainplates and has done others as well so very experienced. My boat has aluminum blocks exposed in the interior that the U-Bolts for the lower shrouds go through, not embedded in the deck. I didn't find any aluminum in the deck around the chainplates.

 

[jviss]

@SailingCal21 I have to hand it to you, I admire your energy and ingenuity, and your resolve to do this job. I no longer have the determination or energy for this kind of thing!

I wonder, did you consider alternate coring materials, like rot-resistant fiberglass honeycomb, like Plascore?

 

[SailingCal21]

@SailingCal21
I wonder, did you consider alternate coring materials, like rot-resistant fiberglass honeycomb, like Plascore?

Thanks, it’s either energy or insanity, I just don’t want Karma to end up in a bone yard.
After experimenting with balsa core I was sold on its suitability. I’m sure that other solutions would be just as effective, balsa seems to be very easy to work with. I’ve chosen to use coosa were there are deck penetrations and will over drill as further insurance. The surprise for me is that plywood seems to be a better solution in high stress areas such as for cap shroud connections. I’m very interested in what I’ll find when I get to the jib car track.

 

[jibes138]

I’m looking to replace my u-bolts as well given the age and wear. I’ll call Garhauer and see if they can double up your order. Thanks for the info.
The aluminum plates are the ones inside the cabin that the rods that connect down to the pan attach to. The u-bolts then go through that aluminum plate and attach with nuts.I assume the 34 and 35 are the same rigging?

 

[SailingCal21]

...The aluminum plates are the ones inside the cabin that the rods that connect down to the pan attach to. The u-bolts then go through that aluminum plate and attach with nuts.I assume the 34 and 35 are the same rigging?

Yes, that is the same on my '81 34. They look to be a bit over 1/2" thick. Getting to the forward port shroud u-bolt is somewhat of a PITA as it's accessed through the cabinet in the head through the liner. Starboard lower forward may be easier as access is through the hanging locker. I need to do a bit more investigation, but upon initial inspection, there doesn't seem to be too much corrosion on the top of the plate. Hopefully, I won't have to detach the rod end that is connected to the hull on the port side as access to that end is not so clear.

 

[jibes138]

The last time I re-bedded the U-Bolts with butyl tape I actually cut away a little of the liner with an oscillating tool to be able to get at the forward u-bolt. I did this through the sliding cabinet behind the sink. I didn't see any other way to get at that one. The factory must have installed it before they attached the deck.

 

[SailingCal21]

The last time I re-bedded the U-Bolts with butyl tape I actually cut away a little of the liner with an oscillating tool to be able to get at the forward u-bolt. I did this through the sliding cabinet behind the sink. I didn't see any other way to get at that one. The factory must have installed it before they attached the deck.

Thanks for the info, I'm also planning to use butyl tape for much if not all the hardware rebedding.
I was able to remove the sliding cabinet doors by lifting up and pushing them back to get access with only a moderate bit of boat yoga (a modified Chakrasana pose ) I may also have to cutout a bit to get the u-bolts reinstalled.

 

[jssailem]

I'm also planning to use butyl tape for much if not all the hardware rebedding.

I find that butyl tape works best when you have fasteners to secuure the hardware evenly to a prepared surface. I tried it on some windows. I got a leak on 2 of the 10 where the hull was not flat and the screws did not pull that section of the frame to the hull snuggly.

 

[dmax]

The last time I re-bedded the U-Bolts with butyl tape I actually cut away a little of the liner with an oscillating tool to be able to get at the forward u-bolt. I did this through the sliding cabinet behind the sink. I didn't see any other way to get at that one. The factory must have installed it before they attached the deck.

I had to do the same thing.

 

[SailingCal21]

Howdy, its been awhile since my last update. Here's what's been going on for the past 6 weeks or so:
Excavated, re-cored, and pretty much finished the forward side deck:


This section took about a quart and a half of the medium grade Softsand. Good thing the I bought the 4 quart tub. Probably gonna need more for the starboard side.

The gut pile grows:

Working on the last section of the aft portside deck now:

Pictured are some of my implements of destruction, small circular saw, multi-tool (I'm using two, one with a plunge blade, another with a rasp). hammer, chisel and pry bar. So far I've burned up a multi-tool and a random orbital sander. I use mostly Harbor Freight tools so not a great lost, except for the Ryobi multi-tool (not unexpected it was an older model and had been well abused). I've replaced it with a brushless model that seems to be working much better... time will tell

 

[SailingCal21]

Check this out, seems that the O'Day boys missed this stanchion backing plate... only two holes instead of 4. Also, found more non-wet core related voids in the original lay up.


Paused for a selfie, the water jugs are used to weigh down the core material to insure a good (and hopefully a voidless) bond.

 

[jssailem]

Your work looks great. A lot of pride in that job. Keep the story going.

 

[SailingCal21]

Received the new u-bolts from Garhauer this week. I took the 4 weeks that they quoted. They weld the deck plate on the formed u-bolts and electroplate them. FYI, the cost of a complete set of 6 was $600.

The old ones are pictured to the left of the new ones.


Anxious to get them installed and resecure the shrouds.

 

[Arrgh]

That looks great! I think I have some wet spots, but I'm going to let it ride for now...nothing soft yet. I don't know what I would do if I had to go a season with my boat on the hard.

 

[jssailem]

I don't know what I would do if I had to go a season with my boat on the hard.

Empty your wallet.