So It Begins: Deck Recoring Project

May 30, 2006
320
Oday 34 Chesapeake Bay
Why do you need a bottom layer, isn’t it still part of the deck?
Yes, the bottom layer on my sample was just to get a sense of the complete laminate. I was careful not to penetrate the bottom layer on the boat when I removed the plug and ended up leaving a bit of the original balsa core and mesh behind which is why the plug looks a bit narrower than the sample I created. The sample also doesn't have the fairing, paint and non-skid layers.
 
May 30, 2006
320
Oday 34 Chesapeake Bay
Slow but sure progress.

Balsa and coosa cores epoxied in place and gaps filled with thickened epoxy. Didn't take any pics of the laying the fiberglass was quite busy to stay ahead of the gel time. Fortunately, I had an epoxy mixologist keeping me supplied. I ended up with 6 total layers of 1708. In order maintain camber from the inside to outside edges, I used 5 layers at a starting width of 1 1/2" incrementing at 1 inch to 5 1/2". The last layer is 6 1/2" which is feathered to the existing glass.
Gonna be slow work if I have to do that for the entire deck, it pretty much doubles the amount of 1708, epoxy and time.

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This next pic is after much sanding and two fairing layers (TotalFair) and more sanding. Taped and ready for primer (AwlGrip 545).

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In all transparency, I did mix a batch of the primer, but stupid, stupid didn't stir the primer base to get the solids off the bottom. Fortunately I only mixed a total of 4 oz. (2 of "unmixed" base and 2 of the converter).

Question: The primer pour was from quart cans, in order to make up for the lost 2 oz from the base should I add a bit more reducer to the mix to make up for the loss or just press on? I'm rolling and brushing if that matters.
 
May 30, 2006
320
Oday 34 Chesapeake Bay
Working on the foredeck now.
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Found something interesting. While removing the stanchions, there were washers and no backing plates, which was kinda surprising to me.
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Upon demo'ing the port side foredeck, I found an embedded aluminum plate where the first stanchion is located.

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I the O'Day production boys had a good idea, however woulda been nice if they had over-bored the stanchion mounting bolts and filled them to prevent water from migrating to the balsa core. Perhaps over-boring was a thing after 1984?

I kinda wonder if anyone who has rebedded their stanchions has run into this.
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,906
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Great photos, and that bow section looks great!

On the photo with the aluminum plate, I assume that there was balsa core over all of that area?

Greg
 
May 30, 2006
320
Oday 34 Chesapeake Bay
Great photos, and that bow section looks great!

On the photo with the aluminum plate, I assume that there was balsa core over all of that area?

Greg
Yes, the plate is embedded in the lower layer with the core on top.
 
May 30, 2006
320
Oday 34 Chesapeake Bay
Looks good!
How did you restore the deck nonskid?
Using Softsand by sprinkling over a wet layer of Awlgrip, letting it start to cure, then sweeping the excess off and applying two more layers of Awlgrip to encapsulate the sand. The first layer used double the amount of paint when compared to the bottom and final coats.
 
May 30, 2006
320
Oday 34 Chesapeake Bay
Making good progress. First coat of primer on port foredeck and excavated the starboard side.
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The starboard stanchion aluminum plate has some serious crevice corrosion and deteriorated bedding.
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Likes: jssailem
Jan 27, 2008
3,065
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Are there threaded holes in the plate or just holes for through bolts? Maybe that’s why the only used washers under the nuts?
 
May 30, 2006
320
Oday 34 Chesapeake Bay
Not threaded. You're right, that explains why there were only nuts and washers with no backing plates. I've purchased several 1/4" G10 to fabricate backing plates for when I reinstall the stanchions. I'm thinking that the embedded backing plates aren't a good solution as you can't inspect their integrity because they're hidden in the core.