Restoration of 1981 C-22 swing keel #10580

[CloudDiver]

Spent some time working on my boom. The end cap had a bunch of corrosion and I had to cut if off, loosing about an inch off the booms total length. Thats not much, but I want to make sure I still have room for the outhaul to work properly. I am going to end up getting a new goose neck fitting, so the old goose neck has been repurposed as the new end cap, this gives a nice place for the eye splice of the outhaul line to mount, and removable when setting the outhaul line to the reef point. I'm using a Ronstan 31712 exit block to run the run the outhaul internally, its a much better block than the tiny one that the CD kit uses. I'll end up with another exit block on the bottom of the boom where the outhaul will exit and go to a cam or cleat, I'm pretty sure I'll have enough purchase.

 

[CloudDiver]

The boom is in pretty good shape but there were scars and gouges were at the end. I decided to paint just the last two feet of the boom, the masthead, and the end-cap. After sanding I primed them with Rustoleum Metal Self-etching Primer. On the boom where there was some gouges I used a little body filler, it didn't take much, most of the white you see sanded off.

 

[CloudDiver]

So I wanted to do something cool with these parts, so the plan was to do a high-vis neon yellow. I found a can a Rustoleum Fluorescent yellow enamel... The can said a white primer would yield best results, but I ignored that. of course the results over the grey primer were less than spectacular, it looks more like a coating of zinc oxide primer. I was expecting a glossy yellow, but its flat. Looks terrible... I'll have to find a better paint, or I'll just end up sanding this back down to the primer and using some of my White Brightsides instead. At the end of the day I shouldn't have even been fooling with this stuff, I still haven't finished painting the cockpit!

 

[CloudDiver]

Problems... Little things are starting to add up, or NOT add up as the case may be. I went to reinstall the arms for the pop top, and with the bolts loosely screwed in the screw holes on the brackets don't line up. The Pop top is sitting square on it's seal, I checked all the edges and its as far forward as its supposed to be and the brackets are off by barley 1/4 inch. I moved the arms around into different positions to check if maybe they were different, nope... I dunno what the deal is. Seems my only choice is flip the top over onto a table and drill out and epoxy fill the screw holes, then I can re-pilot the screws into the new position.
Since I was fed up with that for tonight I tried mounting the new Forespar Marelon hinges on the forward hatch. I was smart enough to drill out and epoxy fill the holes on the deck mounts, but I left the original holes in place on the hatch lip. Now guess what? Yup, the holes don't line up on the new hinges... Shoulda just filled them before I painted the dang thing. I can't win today...

 

[tpenfield]

On the pop-top. I am assuming that the arms are all the same length, but I am wondering if the distance between the bolt holes on the arms are slightly different and it is a matter of mix-and-match?

 

[CaptDon01]

Luke,

That outhaul set-up works nice. Super easy to adjust, you'll LOVE IT!
So how long before you get her back in the water? Mike's boat turned out great, was pretty nice of you to assist him gettint the keel and the bottom done.

Don

 

[Slartibartfass]

Is the hull maybe twisted sitting in the garage?

 

[CloudDiver]

On the pop-top. I am assuming that the arms are all the same length, but I am wondering if the distance between the bolt holes on the arms are slightly different and it is a matter of mix-and-match?

That's what I was thinking... I had tried moving all the to different locations but didn't have any luck on the first go. Maybe I'll try it again when my mind is fresh before I resort to filling all the screw holes with epoxy.

 

[CloudDiver]

Is the hull maybe twisted sitting in the garage?

I don't think that's possible... The boat has been properly supported on the trailer most of the time, and when it was inverted I used well placed boat stands. Fiberglass pulls back to its original shape when flexed pretty well. Only in extreme cases of flex that sustained over a long period (usually with heat involved), would it permanently distort.

 

[CloudDiver]

Luke,

That outhaul set-up works nice. Super easy to adjust, you'll LOVE IT!
So how long before you get her back in the water? Mike's boat turned out great, was pretty nice of you to assist him gettint the keel and the bottom done.

Don
View attachment 125777 View attachment 125778 View attachment 125779

Yup, using your example on that Don. I was on the fence about doing a full internal with 8:1 cascade. Based on other outhaul threads, it just isn't necessary. The only difference in my set up is that I won't be using the block and twisted shackle at the Clew, the line will just run through the grommet. When I have to reef it will be not too hard to pull the pin from the re-claimed goose-neck and shift the line to reef clew.

 

[CloudDiver]

A little splicing on the side while I wait for paint to dry... This is my Jib halyard. I splurged and got some dyneema core FSE Robline when it was on sale, mostly because I like the color better (yes, I'm that anal), and the NE Sta-Set 8mm I had before will now become the Spin halyard. Anyway, for the attachment to the upper swivel of the Harken Furler I did a locking eye splice without the cover (the cover gets tucked in through the eye). This was a real bastard of a splice... I messed it up the first time and started over, 2nd time was the charm. The bitter end got a Yale lock whipping.

 

[CloudDiver]

I want to protect the exposed dyneema from UV, so I also whipped the exposed eye. The naked areas at the base of the eye will get dabbed with some liquid whipping at a later date. Here is what it looks like pinned into the swivel;

 

[CloudDiver]

Now on to the real work... I finally got the pop top all sorted out. I filled the screw holes with epoxy so I could re-drill the screw holes, now the the pop top legs are installed. Then I mounted the new plastic slider rails and put the hatch back on. I also installed the plastic edge trim from Catalina Direct.

 

[CloudDiver]

Finally got the motivation to sand the rest of the cockpit with 220 to prep for the second coat. i had finished about a 3rd of it two weeks ago and have been lolly-gagging ever since. Now the second coat is complete in the cockpit with the exception of just the cockpit sole. I did that coat about 3 hours ago in my 80 degree garage, so I might be able to get the last part done later tonight after I do some homework! Yay! Not really... homework sucks.

 

[pclarksurf]

really liking the look of the painted surfaces in the cockpit and cabin top! Hopefully I have the patience to come close--

 

[CloudDiver]

really liking the look of the painted surfaces in the cockpit and cabin top! Hopefully I have the patience to come close--

Think really hard about the choice to paint... If I hadn't already had so much damage to my non-skid I would have rather restored the gelcoat. That stuff is very thick and you can sand with 220 all day and never thin it too much. Its possible to do the same work you would to prep for paint but restore the gelcoat instead. The paint looks nice, but at the end of the day I think gelcoat looks better and its tougher!

 

[CloudDiver]

So today I finally got my check from Ronstan for the rebate on the winches I bought, $100... Just about the same price I found this used stainless Bimini Top on CL! Unlike others, I may have to lengthen the legs on mine a little rather than shorten them. Good thing I'm a TIG welder, LOL.

 

[CloudDiver]

Totally forgot to mention... The Paint is DONE!

 

[dzl]

Congrats!! Looks totally awesome by the way. I like your color choices for sure.

 

[pclarksurf]

Applause! PS were stealing your grey-- I'll let you have the blue hull (envy), but I'm stealing the Seattle grey ( although that could be "June gloom" for you I suppose.