Need Help: Prop Shaft Jam Nut Won’t Budge
- Thread starter testingthewaters91
- Start date
You may want to check the cutlass bearing, and the shaft and coupling, and the stuffing box.
Greg
That's a good idea, although this boat is equipped with a PSS dripless shaft seal. I could inspect it, or even replace the rubber if necessary.
Yep. The bellows need to be replaced periodically. Based on some of your other findings, I would bet the PO didn’t follow this maintenance recommendation either.
In order to replace the bellows, you need to separate the shaft and coupling…hence my suggestion to check that also.
You are making some good progress!
Greg
Thank you. I do believe this PSS seal was installed 3 years ago when a new engine was put in the boat. It may have some life left or it may not. It's hard for me to say. I'll have to do a little search on what the other parts are that you speak of.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,264
This link may help.
www.shaftseal.com
If your data is accurate you have at least 3 more years before recommended replacement.
PSS Seal | PSS Shaft Seal Maintenance Kit
It is very important that you inspect your PSS Shaft Seal regularly. PSS Seal recommends getting a PSS Maintenance Kit every six years.
www.shaftseal.com
PSS FAQ - PSS Seal recommends that the bellows be replaced once every 6 years.
The set screws are a one and done item.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,264
When the time comes to do the replacement, inspect your shaft for wear or pitting. Have the shaft inspected for any warp or untrue condition.
When you remove the coupler from the shaft, you should have the shaft fitted and faced with the new coupler. This will give you known true 90º face at the coupler. You can then connect to the transmission and finish the alignment by adjusting the fitting at the coupler. This provides a “near perfect” connection from transmission to Propeller and minimizes vibration of the prop shaft assembly.
When you remove the coupler from the shaft, you should have the shaft fitted and faced with the new coupler. This will give you known true 90º face at the coupler. You can then connect to the transmission and finish the alignment by adjusting the fitting at the coupler. This provides a “near perfect” connection from transmission to Propeller and minimizes vibration of the prop shaft assembly.
Well, I see i came into the conversation late. I hadn't seen the subsequent posts that you had removed the nuts when I posted my first comment...
So given where you are at, definitely get new nuts.
I'd inspect the whole system.
Look for wear in the cutlass bearing. Pull the flange off the engine and pull the shaft out far enough to inspect in all locations that you can't see when it's installed. Look for any scoring of the shaft where it goes through the hull and Cutlass bearing. Inspect the PSS bellows and the sealing surface. Get your prop inspected.
If everything looks good - reassemble. If any component looks questionable, replace.
If you have shaft scoring, you should just replace all the above (possibly not the prop)..
dj
Hey folks,
Just got a new pack of cotter pins in the mail today. I was feeling curious, so I hit them with a magnet—and to my surprise, they’re very magnetic.
That got me wondering, so I went and tested the old cotter pin that had been in my prop shaft for who knows how long. Sure enough, it sticks to the magnet like it's glued. (Pics attached.)
Now I’m scratching my head:
Is this normal?
Is it a bad sign?
Is magnetic-ness a red flag for poor-quality stainless?
Should I reuse the old one, trust the new ones, or start hunting for a truly non-magnetic option?
Would love to hear what you all think.
Thanks in advance!
Just got a new pack of cotter pins in the mail today. I was feeling curious, so I hit them with a magnet—and to my surprise, they’re very magnetic.
That got me wondering, so I went and tested the old cotter pin that had been in my prop shaft for who knows how long. Sure enough, it sticks to the magnet like it's glued. (Pics attached.)
Now I’m scratching my head:
Is this normal?
Is it a bad sign?
Is magnetic-ness a red flag for poor-quality stainless?
Should I reuse the old one, trust the new ones, or start hunting for a truly non-magnetic option?
Would love to hear what you all think.
Thanks in advance!
Attachments
I've posted about this numerous times. If i could remember exactly which threads I'd post a link but I don't remember.
What material are the cotter pins made from? Is it 316 stainless steel? if the packaging says it's 316;stainless, they are likey fine.stainless steel becoming magnetic when cold worked. It's normal.
dj
What material are the cotter pins made from? Is it 316 stainless steel? if the packaging says it's 316;stainless, they are likey fine.stainless steel becoming magnetic when cold worked. It's normal.
dj
