Need Help: Prop Shaft Jam Nut Won’t Budge

[testingthewaters91]

A pipe wrench is not a good tool for this job. A pipe wrench grips pipes with the teeth on the jaws, this will severely damage the soft bronze prop nuts. There are "pipe wrenches" with flat jaws which will work.

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It already damaged mine a bit until I realized how much damage was being done.

I also definitely do not recommend a pipe wrench.

 

[capta]

Funny you say that, because my boat had bronze ball valves on brass thru hulls from PO.

And did you keep them, or change them out?
I've owned, and operated boats that were in excess of 50 years old on which the silicone bronze thruhulls were quite functional. A proper thruhull requires regular lapping, to keep the cone edges sharp and maintain a machined fit over time.
One of the easiest ways to sink a boat would be to add brass to steel and possibly aluminium engine cooling lines in saltwater.

 

[testingthewaters91]

And did you keep them, or change them out?
I've owned, and operated boats that were in excess of 50 years old on which the silicone bronze thruhulls were quite functional. A proper thruhull requires regular lapping, to keep the cone edges sharp and maintain a machined fit over time.
One of the easiest ways to sink a boat would be to add brass to steel and possibly aluminium engine cooling lines in saltwater.

I'm sorry I meant to say brass ball valves on bronze thru hulls.

 

[LLoyd B]

Short answer "totally". I was once advised don't take that boat out unless you have a spare sheer pin. That advice was validated the same day that I was operating under the belief that I didn't need a paddle because I could always use a ski to get back. Nowadays I've heard of everything and don't know anything so kinda count on you guys pointing me in the right direction most of the time.

 

[testingthewaters91]

Short answer "totally". I was once advised don't take that boat out unless you have a spare sheer pin. That advice was validated the same day that I was operating under the belief that I didn't need a paddle because I could always use a ski to get back. Nowadays I've heard of everything and don't know anything so kinda count on you guys pointing me in the right direction most of the time.

I'm quite sure you can rest assured that the load testing on those bolts found that having that jam, not next to the propeller is significantly more safe.

And just because 500 people get away with it for a couple of years, that doesn't mean you won't be the one who loses the propeller. It happens and that's why the standard exists.

 

[JoeWhite]

Use a 2x4 of the right length such that one of the propeller blades is horizontal and just sits on the top of the 2x4 that is placed on the ground vertically. Then use a socket wrench and attempt to remove the nut. Are you sure you have to rotate counterclockwise to remove it? Try clockwise.
If those fails, use dermal tool and make deep notch on both sides of the nut then place a screwdriver in the notch and twist it. The nut should fall off easily. After replacing with new nuts, rub lanoline on the shaft thread so can remove it easily.
You may consider removing the propeller and cleaning the shaft and rubbing it with lanoline before reasonabling it.