Jib sheet(s) attach to clew. Two lines or one?

[BlowMeAway]

So @sailme88, with a double figure 8 terminating in a 6" loop, pass the loop through the clew grommet, and run the standing ends through the loop back to blocks and winches? The figure 8 acts as a large stopper knot, and the loop is easily released by passing the standing ends back through? This could work. I like it!

http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8fo...png&Website=www.animatedknots.com#ScrollPoint

 

[Gunni]

Tie the eskimo bowline (bitter end around the loop, not the standing end), you can also take the bitter end back up through the locking loop to prevent shaking loose.

 

[weinie]

Tie the eskimo bowline (bitter end around the loop, not the standing end), you can also take the bitter end back up through the locking loop to prevent shaking loose.

I once raced on a boat with a guy who thought that was a proper bowline and it took us forever to undo his handiwork at the end of the night.

 

[PaulK]

What works for you will depend upon a number of things. If you're changing headsails often (racing comes to mind), two separate sheets make sense because you'll be able to take the windward sheet off the sail you have set and use it for the working sheet on the jib you're switching to. Then you lower the original sail, take the second sheet off it and tie the second sheet onto the newly hoisted jib for the windward side. If you only have one long, doubled sheet on the first sail, you'd need another long, doubled sheet for the second sail as well. This would be twice as expensive. Doubled sheets can wear unevenly, perhaps chafing on a long one-tack trip. If the damage is bad enough you then have to replace the whole double-length sheet. If you use two separate lines, you would only need to replace the one that was worn: half the cost. When boats are smaller, the cost differential in buying separate or doubled sheets may not be much, but when the prices go over $3.50/ft for heftier line, and you need 40' of it for a single sheet, 80' for a double, it can get pricey very quickly.

 

[Dalliance]

I have a 150 genoa on a roller furler. Switched from two lines with bolines to a single line 5-6 years ago. Never going back. Less to hang up on a tack.

 

[BlowMeAway]

@PaulK thanks for your input, I won't be racing and probably won't change headsails often, but may be reefing depending on how far uplake I go. Storms come up quick here, but usually foreseen, and I have no problem dousing sails and running for cover. Changing sails with a hanked on system is no picnic...but doable. I would like a quick release from the headsail clew and after reading @Gene Neill and @sailme88 post, I'm leaning in those directions. Also if my mentor and fellow H30C owner @Dalliance is good with one long line...then me too!

 

[Terry Cox]

I prefer separate sheets, port and starboard. Each of mine are secured with a double bowline. Never had an issue with them coming undone, coming loose, getting tangled, etc., since 2002. No racing here, just serious cruising.

 

[Gunni]

I once raced on a boat with a guy who thought that was a proper bowline and it took us forever to undo his handiwork at the end of the night.

All proper bowlines share the characteristic of being easy to untie, the Eskimo bowline included. The bowline also happens to be one of the most improperly tied knots, ending up as granny knots.

 

[jssailem]

One line with a cow hitch on the clew in the middle of the line.

 

[Jacktar]

I use two sheets each through the clew with bowlines on my 150 jib genoa. The other standard jib has its own pair of sheets sized for the sail. Works better that way and easy to shift out on sail changes.

 

[sailme88]

It works for me quite well. I've used quick release bales in the past. Never sustained a premature release ( that sounds bad I know) BUT, when hauled close there was contact with the shroud that I didn't like. My Bristol 32 originally had hank ons. When we needed to shorten, I'd have the windward sheet pulled down thru the v berth hatch. head up, pay out the head halyard and haul the sail into the v berth. Always worked well with a crew. Sucked when solo.... ~~(\_~~

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Here's what I've used for years. My jib has reef points, so this makes it simple to,move the sheets up to the reefed clew point. I have never ever had this come loose. Also makes it simple when I change from working jib, to genoa

 

[Joe]

I use two sheets... connected with bowlines.
The sheets will last longer this way because they get switched port and starboard and end for end.
You can easily untie a bowline..... so that means you're going to store you sheets out of the weather when no in use.... longevity again.... but........MOST IMPORTANTLY.... You will be less apt to store the sails with the sheets attached..... because the cow hitch, larkspur or whatever you want to call the knot is a pain to untie. So not only do you disrespect your sheets... you insult your sail putting it in the bag with all that wet rope.

If you hang your sheets up in the rigging when you tack.... you're doing it wrong. Tacking and tying the knot. Don't try to pull the sail across with the sheet... let the wind do that
The knot's tail end should be tied so it rests inside the loop. That knot in the picture is not a bowline... I can't identify it..

 

[dziedzicmj]

I am surprised that there was only one vote for soft shackles. They are smaller and cleaner (as they don't get tangled on the shrouds).

Marek

 

[Gunni]

I am surprised that there was only one vote for soft shackles. They are smaller and cleaner (as they don't get tangled on the shrouds).

Marek

That is an elegant solution, however it requires a special eye splice on the sheet. Perhaps OK if I was using single braid, or a racer looking to reduce weight, but I don't want to be fussing with splicing new jib sheets into my old double-braid if I break or damage them.

One line with a cow hitch on the clew in the middle of the line.

The cow hitch is not stable if you part one side of your single line sheet.

 

[JRacer]

Here's what I've used for years. My jib has reef points, so this makes it simple to,move the sheets up to the reefed clew point. I have never ever had this come loose. Also makes it simple when I change from working jib, to genoa

Well, that's an interesting approach.

 

[shemandr]

So @sailme88
http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8fo...png&Website=www.animatedknots.com#ScrollPoint

This knot appears to be overly large to me. And, I would be concerned that after tensioning it might be difficult to break. The website also Rx's an additional stopper knot on the tail. That would make it even larger. What is the advantage over the bowline?
I'd like to know more about the soft shackle. It might be a good thing to throw in my sail bag for crewing situations.

 

[justsomeguy]

I'd like to know more about the soft shackle. It might be a good thing to throw in my sail bag for crewing situations.

Not really much to them. If you can finger-trap a loop in the ends of sufficient cordage, you can make your own.
http://www.chutingstar.com/pd-main-canopy-slinks
HTH.

 

[BlowMeAway]

Thank you all for the awesome responses. I seriously appreciate your input. After some minimal research and minor considerations, I believe this may be the better solution for my needs, using the soft-shackle approach and one line.

How does this seem to you all?

 

[justsomeguy]

How does this seem to you all?

I think I would shorten up the main loop some, requiring some finagling of the locking stub.

In essence, you should need to bend the stub fairly severely in order to get it in/out of its working position.

Make sense?