In deep on my V17
- Thread starter Hollyweirdos
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Sounds like an excellent paint, but I'm curious how it hold up to foot traffic. Bulkheads and overheads, might be fine - but is it durable underfoot?
My V22 has spray-on bedliner on the cabin floor inside, nice non-slip surface and the black might help pull some cabin heat out into the water on hot days, if the physics gods love me.
My cockpit and deck are in serious need of a repainting and I'm not sure I want to pay "marine" prices for the work, so I'm really watching your project.
My V22 has spray-on bedliner on the cabin floor inside, nice non-slip surface and the black might help pull some cabin heat out into the water on hot days, if the physics gods love me.
My cockpit and deck are in serious need of a repainting and I'm not sure I want to pay "marine" prices for the work, so I'm really watching your project.
The Florida sun will tell quickly if it will hold up. I think it will though. It is every bit as hard(if not harder) than Easypoxy was. My thinking and also some others, the paint makers for house paints have seriously deep pockets for R&D and testing. The boat manuf's probably dont have that same kind of budget. But we will see and I will post on it.
Smithy
I used these guys on mine. Two seasons later and it still looks great.
http://www.topsecretcoatings.com/index.htm
That is good news! I was thinking about doing the same thing on this one. The company is just a few minutes away from me here in Ft. Lauderdale. How much did your cockpit end up costing? And did you install it yourself, if so, how did it go? The interior pricing is supposed to be less at $10 sq. ft.
With two teenagers and work, I realized that me taking the proper time would not have been possible so I had it done. Also, I have a very poor sense of color and have learned that anything to do with trim and finishes to farm out. I was comparing it to my boat guys's all in cost to fill, resand match, and feather the painting...so I likely overpaid. Also, it spreads the loads of kids jumping better.Hollyweirdos said:
Jeff
Today we finished the interior and started the fitting of the top. Going to have to make some adjustments. Didn't fit like a glove. Now have to do some cutting and reglassing of the deck to make it right. :cry:Maybe I should just glass the whole dang thing together. I cant get my brain to tell me the logical steps to glue the joint, install the new rub rail, and use through-bolts. It seems so simple until I am standing there wondering what comes first. I think I will 5200 the seam, install some tempo bolts and screws, and let it dry. Then I will go back, take out the screws, and put the rail on with the same screws.
We got the CB back in as well. Not as hard as I thought it would be. We laid a piece of plywood on the trailer to support the laid flat CB, added some 2x4's under the back of the boat to lift it higher, and tilted her in place. The new Mac. keel bolt went right though. Glad thats done.
Also learned something about latex paint. We primed the interior with a kilz primer and then coated with Behr prem plus in white. The paint never dried correctly. The term the paint people use is blocking. It felt sticky even after two weeks of drying. The solution was simple. Recoat right over the sticky paint with Glidden porch and floor latex. It has primer in the paint. I spoke with the glidden people and they reassured me it would work and it did. Completely dry in less than 2 hours. Amazing.
Still a lot more work but I feel better now having that top out of the yard!
We got the CB back in as well. Not as hard as I thought it would be. We laid a piece of plywood on the trailer to support the laid flat CB, added some 2x4's under the back of the boat to lift it higher, and tilted her in place. The new Mac. keel bolt went right though. Glad thats done.
Also learned something about latex paint. We primed the interior with a kilz primer and then coated with Behr prem plus in white. The paint never dried correctly. The term the paint people use is blocking. It felt sticky even after two weeks of drying. The solution was simple. Recoat right over the sticky paint with Glidden porch and floor latex. It has primer in the paint. I spoke with the glidden people and they reassured me it would work and it did. Completely dry in less than 2 hours. Amazing.
Still a lot more work but I feel better now having that top out of the yard!
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Do you have a little space midships between the deck and hull? Maybe you could start your fastening at the transom and work forward, installing all the bolts. This would probably allow the bolts to pull the hull back into shape and the bow to line up.
If you use butyl tape you'll have some time to work with it and will be able to redo any flubs without the extra work adhesives would cause. Otherwise, inject the adhesive as you work forward.
If you use butyl tape you'll have some time to work with it and will be able to redo any flubs without the extra work adhesives would cause. Otherwise, inject the adhesive as you work forward.
I was also thinking start at the back and work forward....
maybe a bottle jack in the middle to lift the cabin 'house' -maybe it sagged a little while off the trl? or a strap(s) around the hull to lift (squeeze) the bow up a bit...
Also wonder if the heat of the sun might help expand it a bit...
-is there even a problem?
maybe a bottle jack in the middle to lift the cabin 'house' -maybe it sagged a little while off the trl? or a strap(s) around the hull to lift (squeeze) the bow up a bit...
Also wonder if the heat of the sun might help expand it a bit...
-is there even a problem?
If the tape works I'd use it. If you use the 5200 and get hung up you will have a big problem.
When you started I thought I saw cross pieces to hold the hull in shape. Then later when you were glassing in the seats and v-berth and such I don't remember seeing them. Did the boat spread out at that point?
If it has and the new work is holding it out and you really can't get the top to fit back on then I wouldn't glass it to the bottom, but cut the top side to side back a ways from the bow. Then get the back to fit on and put the cut bow piece on and slide it back towards the other piece and glass the gap.
Saying that I'm not there so this might not be the easiest solution.
One other thing would be to put some small 1/4 inch holes opposite each other in the hull at intervals below the deck joint. Use large fender washers on the outside and put tabs on the inside of the hull behind the 1/4 inch bolt head. Run re-bar wire side to side between the tabs and start twisting it to suck the sides in.
When done either fill the holes or put some nice looking 1/4 inch SS screws in them with small washers, butyl tape on the outside and nuts, and flat and lock washers on the inside.
Well I'm sure you will get this resolved and the pictures of the finished/painted parts look great :dance:,
Sum
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Did you try starting at the front and working toward the back where it is wider and more flexable??
Yep, for sure try that first,
Sum
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Hey Holly
An idea came to mind. Currently I have a Rhodes 22 project boat hanging from a beam from tow straps (you know those fat yellow nylon straps). I got the Rhodes off of the trailer by using the ratchet on the tow strap to raise the boat a few inches at a time, then blocking up the boat, resetting the ratchet and inching up the boat a bit at a time. The ratchet action on those tow straps can apply a lot of force ... but it is spread out over a decent amount of surface area. Maybe you could put one of these tow straps around the nose of your boat and then ratchet it back into alignment. In other words squeeze it. Once in place you can set through-bolts to hold everything where you want it. I'm guessing you would need two straps. Place them side-by-side, pull one tight, then the other. Once both are tight you will need to release one, then pull all of the strap out of the drum to give you "room" to ratchet some more (this is how I got my boat off of the trailer). Keep going back and forth between the two straps until the deck is tight against the hull sides. I'd also have a rubber mallet handy to encourage things along.
An idea came to mind. Currently I have a Rhodes 22 project boat hanging from a beam from tow straps (you know those fat yellow nylon straps). I got the Rhodes off of the trailer by using the ratchet on the tow strap to raise the boat a few inches at a time, then blocking up the boat, resetting the ratchet and inching up the boat a bit at a time. The ratchet action on those tow straps can apply a lot of force ... but it is spread out over a decent amount of surface area. Maybe you could put one of these tow straps around the nose of your boat and then ratchet it back into alignment. In other words squeeze it. Once in place you can set through-bolts to hold everything where you want it. I'm guessing you would need two straps. Place them side-by-side, pull one tight, then the other. Once both are tight you will need to release one, then pull all of the strap out of the drum to give you "room" to ratchet some more (this is how I got my boat off of the trailer). Keep going back and forth between the two straps until the deck is tight against the hull sides. I'd also have a rubber mallet handy to encourage things along.
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Wow, today was a tough one. I started off pretty frustrated with lining it up. Nothing was working. I googled to no avail either. Apparently, not many idiots(people like me) do this kind of madness. After a lot of pushing pulling lifting and twisting, I couldnt make it go without cutting. I chose the rear end for the cuts. Easier to fix than the bow. Out came the sawzall and I cut right up the corners to the top. Once I did that and some creative lifting via the post in middle for the keel cable and some blocks, I was able to get her lined up. Btw, I didnt see all your good ideas until after the monster was dead. Thanks for the insight though. It always makes me think about other ways to handle things. I often go back to readjust things to match the suggestions.
I put some screws in to pull the sides into place, and gave it 2 tubes of 5200 along the joint. It actually worked! I had to use 1/4" screws to bring the hard parts together. There was a lot of changed geometry due to me adding bulkheads and stringers etc...
The plan from here is to let that glue set, remove the screws, and install the rub-rail with a combo of screws and through bolts. I am going to add wood trim around the inside to recieve the screws and the nuts.
I filled the void on the corners with thickened epoxy and covered them with some biaxial cloth. Then they got some cabosil for fairing smooth. More sanding to follow.
Other stuff done today was adding the brass drain tube, adding the new CB cable, installing the rudder pintles, installing the bow eye, and installing the drain plug.
Oh yeah, dont look at that crappy through hull fitting. I is just a test for the stainless one that I have to put in.
Now I sleep. I am beat. Gnite!
Wow, today was a tough one. I started off pretty frustrated with lining it up. Nothing was working. I googled to no avail either. Apparently, not many idiots(people like me) do this kind of madness. After a lot of pushing pulling lifting and twisting, I couldnt make it go without cutting. I chose the rear end for the cuts. Easier to fix than the bow. Out came the sawzall and I cut right up the corners to the top. Once I did that and some creative lifting via the post in middle for the keel cable and some blocks, I was able to get her lined up. Btw, I didnt see all your good ideas until after the monster was dead. Thanks for the insight though. It always makes me think about other ways to handle things. I often go back to readjust things to match the suggestions.
I put some screws in to pull the sides into place, and gave it 2 tubes of 5200 along the joint. It actually worked! I had to use 1/4" screws to bring the hard parts together. There was a lot of changed geometry due to me adding bulkheads and stringers etc...
The plan from here is to let that glue set, remove the screws, and install the rub-rail with a combo of screws and through bolts. I am going to add wood trim around the inside to recieve the screws and the nuts.
I filled the void on the corners with thickened epoxy and covered them with some biaxial cloth. Then they got some cabosil for fairing smooth. More sanding to follow.
Other stuff done today was adding the brass drain tube, adding the new CB cable, installing the rudder pintles, installing the bow eye, and installing the drain plug.
Oh yeah, dont look at that crappy through hull fitting. I is just a test for the stainless one that I have to put in.
Now I sleep. I am beat. Gnite!
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I dunno! I am thinking more of an exorcism. Either that or I will have really F'd it up bad.So when this is all done... will you tell people you restored this boat or recycled this boat?
Looks really nice and congrats on coming up with a solution. Looks like you have a boat again,
Sum
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nice work! I love fiberglass it is so forgiving! -you can always add more and grind.
I think TB (again) had the better idea, but done is done.
now you have to wait at least 3 days cure w/ regular 5200!
she sits a little higher than I thought... think you might need some kind of tongue extension?.
I think TB (again) had the better idea, but done is done.
now you have to wait at least 3 days cure w/ regular 5200!
she sits a little higher than I thought... think you might need some kind of tongue extension?.
Thanks Bill, Time will tell but I didnt have any trouble launching at North lake before I started this. Out truck sits kind of high so we may luck out. Hope you are around for the relaunch!
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