Hi Maine... Any thoughts on the new M2 DC SoC Monitor Blue Sea Meters? Thanks Jon
https://www.bluesea.com/products/1830/M2_DC_SoC_Monitor
https://www.bluesea.com/products/1830/M2_DC_SoC_Monitor
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- Thread starter Maine Sail
- Start date
Could someone please help me interpret these SG readings.
4 brand new 6v Dekka / East Penn EG2 batteries, wired series/parallel for 12v
Charged twice with 15v C-Charger; in my house. Never been used except to test new distribution panel
Brand new float-type hydrometer
2 sets of readings, a few hours apart after full charge
Readings recorded on 4th draw
Includes -4 subtraction for temp conversion
DVM readings for 12v = 12.86v.
Batt #. Cell 1. Cell 2. Cell 3. DVM
1. 1.255. 1.270. 1.190. 6.44
1.211. 1.251. 1.201. 6.44
2. 1.235. 1.245. 1.240. 6.42
1.186. 1.231. 1.161. 6.42
3. 1.196. 1.171. 1.156. 6.41
0.996. 1.176. 1.171. 6.40
4. 1.211. 1.096. 1.151. 6.44
6.44
I'm thinking I'm doing something wrong with the SG measurements, or that my new hydrometer doesn't work properly. The
Float never sits upright in the tube, but always leans against the glass.
Thanks!
4 brand new 6v Dekka / East Penn EG2 batteries, wired series/parallel for 12v
Charged twice with 15v C-Charger; in my house. Never been used except to test new distribution panel
Brand new float-type hydrometer
2 sets of readings, a few hours apart after full charge
Readings recorded on 4th draw
Includes -4 subtraction for temp conversion
DVM readings for 12v = 12.86v.
Batt #. Cell 1. Cell 2. Cell 3. DVM
1. 1.255. 1.270. 1.190. 6.44
1.211. 1.251. 1.201. 6.44
2. 1.235. 1.245. 1.240. 6.42
1.186. 1.231. 1.161. 6.42
3. 1.196. 1.171. 1.156. 6.41
0.996. 1.176. 1.171. 6.40
4. 1.211. 1.096. 1.151. 6.44
6.44
I'm thinking I'm doing something wrong with the SG measurements, or that my new hydrometer doesn't work properly. The
Float never sits upright in the tube, but always leans against the glass.
Thanks!
Cheap hydrometer. The EZ Red is about the best of the cheapies but if you want a good reliable hydrometer you get a Freas of move to a sight refractometer. I use a sight refractomter as I have broken one to many expensive Freas hydrometers....
I have a Groco ARG 500 raw water filter on my '76 Atomic 4 engine. I've had the boat 5 yrs. and I've never cleaned the raw water filter. The engine runs great (knock wood). First, is this a task I can do with the boat in the water or would it be prudent to wait until out for bottom job? Second, The filter is installed (not by me) with the "IN" port closest to the water pump and the "OUT" port is closest to the thruhull valve . The engine does not run hot and there is approx 2 and 1/2 gals of water exhausting out the back. Shouldn't the filter be installed like this: intake thru hull, filter "IN" port, "OUT" port then water pump ??
Is there anything special I should know before I clean the basket strainer and wash out the clear holder. I have the service kit and will replace the o rings and washers as well. Thanks for your great help, MaineSail.
No problem with cleaning the filter in the water. Just close the seacock first. There is a seacock isn't there?
It would appear that your filter is plumbed backwards. Again close the seacock and fix it.
Remember to open the seacock when finished.
It would appear that your filter is plumbed backwards. Again close the seacock and fix it.
Remember to open the seacock when finished.
Balmar MC 604 trouble codes ?
I have an Electromaxx 140 A alternator with Balmar Mc 614 regulator. House bank 4x 110Ahr Deka AGMs. All worked perfect last season. This year it started flashing the red light on the Yanmar dash. At first it only did it at low rpms, if I brought the engine above 1100 rpm it went out. Today it would flash up to 2000 rpms go out then come on steady about 2500 rpms. The Balmar digital readout indicates 14.9 volts. My electrical panel has a dvm and it is jumping all over the place.
The Balmar manual indicates that turning on the dash light would indicate, voltage too high or low, battery temp too high, alt temp too high. Is there any other information it can provide on the actual fault it is detecting ? My Rogue charge controller indicates battery temps ok. It starts right away so don't think it could be alt temp.
Thanks, Bob
I have an Electromaxx 140 A alternator with Balmar Mc 614 regulator. House bank 4x 110Ahr Deka AGMs. All worked perfect last season. This year it started flashing the red light on the Yanmar dash. At first it only did it at low rpms, if I brought the engine above 1100 rpm it went out. Today it would flash up to 2000 rpms go out then come on steady about 2500 rpms. The Balmar digital readout indicates 14.9 volts. My electrical panel has a dvm and it is jumping all over the place.
The Balmar manual indicates that turning on the dash light would indicate, voltage too high or low, battery temp too high, alt temp too high. Is there any other information it can provide on the actual fault it is detecting ? My Rogue charge controller indicates battery temps ok. It starts right away so don't think it could be alt temp.
Thanks, Bob
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It looks fine, I have the 1" wide flat belt conversion kit on the engine. The batteries are fully charged so the alternator has almost no demand on it.
Connections all look fine. It has only been on for a year, all the wiring is new except for the original Yanmar harness, it only supplies the 12 volts. the alternator is wired direct to the house bank.
Bob
Need voltage regulator on out board
Have 1979 15 hp Envinrude outboard with a charge coil. But it is not used as i need to add a voltage regulator. But I am not sure on what is needed to accomplish this. An info to get me started here would be great. Greg
Have 1979 15 hp Envinrude outboard with a charge coil. But it is not used as i need to add a voltage regulator. But I am not sure on what is needed to accomplish this. An info to get me started here would be great. Greg
Problem has disappeared, I went over all the wiring, tightened connections, tightened belt a bit. It started and ran without the light coming on.
Going over it all I did not see anything loose or dirty. So I hope it is going to stay away. I hate it when problems get solved without an indicated cause.
Bob
I'm upgrading the battery bank on my boat from the stock factory arrangement to a 200 ah house bank and reserve battery and I'll be using AGMs. Why AGMs? primarily due to space constraints, and I am able to get a very good price on some lightly used ones.
My slip doesn't have a shore power connection but it is available nearby for temporary use when I'm at the boat. Due to this arrangement I plan mainly on charging with the stock 55A alternator and solar (currently 15W but will probably increase this), and will install a 20A shore charger for those times I'm at the boat to top things off and equalize.
Given this arrangement, what is the best combiner to use? Echo Charger or ACR type device? If ACR, then Blue Seas SI-ACR or Yandina Combiner 100 for my needs?
My slip doesn't have a shore power connection but it is available nearby for temporary use when I'm at the boat. Due to this arrangement I plan mainly on charging with the stock 55A alternator and solar (currently 15W but will probably increase this), and will install a 20A shore charger for those times I'm at the boat to top things off and equalize.
Given this arrangement, what is the best combiner to use? Echo Charger or ACR type device? If ACR, then Blue Seas SI-ACR or Yandina Combiner 100 for my needs?
1 1/2 in hose connector?
I have a 1 1/2 inch deck drain hose that goes down to a seacock. I want to tap into this drain hose, put a plastic or bronze connector between a section of the hose, and in addition ad a 5/8 inch drain hose from an Air conditioning pump. Can anyone suggest a Tee that would allow this? If none is available, i could get some sort of 1 1/2 in bronze connector with a round midsection that maybe I could tap into and thread a fitting with a hose barb for the 5/8 diam. A/C hose.
Any ideas greatly appreciated, as I have searched the internet and not been able to find anything suitable.
Thanks.
I have a 1 1/2 inch deck drain hose that goes down to a seacock. I want to tap into this drain hose, put a plastic or bronze connector between a section of the hose, and in addition ad a 5/8 inch drain hose from an Air conditioning pump. Can anyone suggest a Tee that would allow this? If none is available, i could get some sort of 1 1/2 in bronze connector with a round midsection that maybe I could tap into and thread a fitting with a hose barb for the 5/8 diam. A/C hose.
Any ideas greatly appreciated, as I have searched the internet and not been able to find anything suitable.
Thanks.
My new boat comes stock with a two battery group 27 house bank and one group 27 start battery. Unfortunately, there is no height clearance to replace the house batteries with golf cart batteries without major modifications.
However, I was thinking a quick fix might me to combine all three batteries to get me a quick 50% increase in house capacity) and purchase a fourth battery to use as the start or reserve battery.
Although there is no room for a full size group 24 or 27 battery, I might be able to use a smaller agm or gel battery which has much smaller case size. I happened to see some 30 something AH ones in WM yesterday which is where I got the idea from.
It would receive its charge exclusively from the alternator after passing through the factory "cristec" isolator I mentioned in a previous post.
Is this doable?
However, I was thinking a quick fix might me to combine all three batteries to get me a quick 50% increase in house capacity) and purchase a fourth battery to use as the start or reserve battery.
Although there is no room for a full size group 24 or 27 battery, I might be able to use a smaller agm or gel battery which has much smaller case size. I happened to see some 30 something AH ones in WM yesterday which is where I got the idea from.
It would receive its charge exclusively from the alternator after passing through the factory "cristec" isolator I mentioned in a previous post.
Is this doable?
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Cutlass removal on Hunters
RC,
Have you found bearings harder to remove on Hunters or differences with struts? I know of two (100% freshwater - one changed 5 years ago) that were near impossible to push out (shaft in place,) while many Catalinas (fresh and salt) pop free relatively easily.
Would current leakage affect the bearing getting welded in there?
Is this a case for composite bearing bearing shells rather than brass?
Thanks,
Ken
RC,
Have you found bearings harder to remove on Hunters or differences with struts? I know of two (100% freshwater - one changed 5 years ago) that were near impossible to push out (shaft in place,) while many Catalinas (fresh and salt) pop free relatively easily.
Would current leakage affect the bearing getting welded in there?
Is this a case for composite bearing bearing shells rather than brass?
Thanks,
Ken