- Feb 26, 2004
Download it here. The app is searchable in the Google Play Store under Sailboat Owners.
Sorry iPhone/iPad users, we are still waiting on Apple. :(Click the X in the upper right corner to make this go away
Came across your tutorial (great by the way) because I was looking for a way to remove and rebed the fixed ports in my H 356 that are set in polysulfide. During that search I came across PolyGone305 by RPM Technology. Tech support claims it will remove silicone and polysulifde without mechanical scrapping and that it will not damage fiberglass. It will, however, craze lexan and plexiglass.
I haven't tried it yet, but it may be the answer to your request for a product that will remove silicone from gelcoat.
I would not use Starboard. Nothing likes to stick to it. Butyl is likely the best option with Starboard, as it seals in compression, but still it is like trying to seal a Teflon frying pan.Will be rebedding both 8' long, curved genoa tracks soon. The tracks are flat SS held up off the deck by a plastic spacer. We'll be replacing the spacer with 3/8" starboard.
Do I need to butyl the entire length of the track, both sides of the starboard? Or can I just seal everything at each bolt hole? Or something else entirely??
Uhm...grammar check:I became a convert several years ago. Here's my latest experience (with a plug for Maine Sail). Read the post on my blog if you want to see the pictures, there are just too many to load into this forum. http://www.lifeonthehook.com/2015/05/14/an-ode-to-butyl-rubber/ !
For that application you could really use any of them. Pick which one you prefer and enjoy the boat!Maine,
Would you recommend butyl tape for bedding an outboard motor bracket on the transom? Or is it better to go to Sikaflex or one of the sealers you recommend below the waterline?
When floating level, the bracket is of course above the waterline, but when heeled, the bottom bolts might be submerged - so it seemed like a bit of a corner-case, and the answer wasn't obvious to me (I have your butyl tape, Sikaflex 291, and 4200 all on hand, and I can't choose between them . I'd certainly prefer butyl, as it's easy to work with and easy to disassemble if I ever should need to. But I want to be sure it's appropriate for this case. Thanks.
You will be best to have two people or a good way to keep the bolt from moving. Ideally you do not want the machine screw or bolt to spin, but if you absolutely have to, you can slightly soften the butyl with a q-tip and some mineral spirits and go for it. If the bolt does spin slightly, with butyl, this is not the end of the world and you will still likely get a water tight seal. If you can minimize both twisting that is great if not do your best to minimize it.I noticed that you do not have any examples of using Butyl with screws that do not utilize a backing nut.
Just to clarify, I meant wrapping the ring of butyl around the screw on the underside of the part being fastened, not at the head of the fastener.I've had good luck wrapping a ring of butyl around, but not touching, the screw. If you combine that with a good countersink of the screw hole at the bedding interface (i.e. in the fiberglass under the teak), the butyl will flow into the threads when tightened. It takes a bit of practice because you don't want to use so much butyl that you have to do a lot of re-tightening because that'll break the seal each time. However, I find that the butyl does reliably flow back into the threads. The key is to roughly match the volume of the countersink to the volume of the butyl ring.