And so it begins

[25yearslater]

Interesting question. I suppose if I wanted something a bit more for the outboard screws I might opt for a strip of stainless perhaps 1/8th thick by 5/8ths wide and say 5 or 6 inches long drilled with clearance holes much like a narrow backing plate that could be easily inserted into the hull and liner gap. Then a few nuts to secure and there would be some additional strength. Another option might be to pot the T nuts in an inverted position (long end down) with the flange against the deck and encease them in thickened epoxy from the inside, again utilizing the gap for access. Kind of messy though and tough to work on considering the narrow gap. The biggest issue we encounter is the end of the core envelope as it stops about an inch from the hull. With this there is a very pronounced step. Another option would be to build up the step to the envelope thickness using cloth and epoxy, again messy, and redrill the outboard holes for a T nut to pull up into. Just some alternate ideas beyond the nut and washer.

 

[tfrench]

Joe, thanks for adding more of your thoughts here. Makes sense explaining how this is stronger than the traditional methods without needing to cut chunks out of the inner liner. Any thoughts on repotting and using the t screws on all four of the stanchion holes --eliminating all 4 nuts in the cabin below each stanchion?

Hi Jonny, i just finished my modification to stantions. I'll take some pics and send if you like with the whys of my work. I took a different tack than Joe. My current project is "furniture" in main cabin and ceiling.
Cheers,
Tim

 

[JonnyQuest]

Hi Jonny, i just finished my modification to stantions. I'll take some pics and send if you like with the whys of my work. I took a different tack than Joe. My current project is "furniture" in main cabin and ceiling. Cheers, Tim

Hi Tim,
I'd appreciate seeing your work. I'll definitely be tackling my stanchions this spring and an working up a plan right now. So yes, if you can share id appreciate it. I'll send you a pm for future reference.

I currently have bolts and nuts through my deck and ceiling liner, which I expect is giving no structural assistance whatsoever. Iim thinking about using GPO-3 board as backing blocks but expect that would still entail cutting out areas of liner and adhering the backing block directly to the underside of the deck. There IS one stanchion whose washer is beginning to deform the deck and cause stress fracturing and deflection.

More later as my plan develops.

 

[tfrench]

Hi Tim, I'd appreciate seeing your work. I'll definitely be tackling my stanchions this spring and an working up a plan right now. So yes, if you can share id appreciate it. I'll send you a pm for future reference. I currently have bolts and nuts through my deck and ceiling liner, which I expect is giving no structural assistance whatsoever. Iim thinking about using GPO-3 board as backing blocks but expect that would still entail cutting out areas of liner and adhering the backing block directly to the underside of the deck. There IS one stanchion whose washer is beginning to deform the deck and cause stress fracturing and deflection. More later as my plan develops.

Ok. i'll send those pics tomorrow with my thinking on this problem.

 

[25yearslater]

Well the new shifter setup works grand. This is the Vetus SISCO with some adaptation to the standard setup that is easy to make. Here is that hole for the wires Jonny. I rerouted most around the aft edge of the liner and back to the panel. If I had any ambition I would have enlarged the hole.

 

[SailingCal21]

Damn, you do good work.

 

[25yearslater]

Well it seems after all these years I may be dyslexic. Part of my to do list was replacing the standing rigging on YOT on a year by year basis. Don't know how old the current rigging was but I am sure Merriman went by the wayside some time ago. So last year was the for and back stays. This year was the lower shrouds and next will be the uppers. So contacting the good folks at http://www.riggingandhardware.com/default.aspx I provided the necessary information and lengths after very carefully measuring the existing shrouds. Yes they were a full 102 inches from pins to thread end. Heading to YOT to install them I sensed they were quite short. Hmmm thought I. Returning home disgusted I again measured the old shrouds and to my chagrin and immediate recollection they were a full 201 inches. Again contacting http://www.riggingandhardware.com/default.aspx I explained my blunder and they quickly (2 days) had my correct shrouds in my hands. This was coupled with a generous dummy discount and the scheduled launch for tomorrow has been saved. As I said in the beginning, I would share the blunders and success of the continuing adventures of YOT. I also want to give a real plug to Jeff for such fast service and the unexpected discount.

 

[jibes138]

Wow, that must have really ruined your day. I remember I made a mistake once so don't feel too bad it happens to all of us. I wonder if you could use those norseman fittings to splice them into longer lengths and use as spares? Thanks for sharing...the old saying measure twice and cut once comes to mind. I just replaced two thru hulls with true seacocks using the Maine Sail method of G10 for a backing block. After gooping them all up with Sika 291 and torqueing everything down I thought to open the seacock and look down the hole. So much sealant had squeezed into the hole that if I had let it harden there would be zero flow and I'd be scrambling around wondering what the heck was wrong. I don't think they'll leak though :>). Those new seacocks with the three through bolts and 5/8 backing plate are rock solid. I went a little larger than Maine Sail on the diameter of the backing plate using 6 inch diameter since the board was 12 x 12 so I got 4 backing plates from the board. Still need to epoxy the outside and get a 90 degree fitting for the inside engine hose. Next up rewire the whole mast, replace the steaming light and anchor light fixtures and get all my lights working again and replace my 30 year old VHF cable. My steaming light plastic cover is so crazed and clouded from the sun I don't think any light could escape even if the bulb wasn't burnt out.

 

[rajhnsn]

You've just added to my list of "should of dones" but I'm glad I finished my "gotta do's" and am now in the water. Heading down to enjoy the boat in a few minutes.

 

[jibes138]

rajhnsn, the steaming light was like a black hole. Light could only get to the event horizon (the lens) and then couldn't escape. I'll try to take a picture of it. The anchor light is an old Hella fixture with an incandescent bulb. I am planning to get a LED fixture to replace it. I don't mind incandescent for the steaming light since you are generating power while you are using it anyway, but the anchor light drains the batteries so LED seems the way to go up there.

 

[Ward H]

I don't mind incandescent for the steaming light since you are generating power while you are using it anyway,

Jibes, I hear this stated a lot but if the steaming light is LED, wouldn't that be an advantage because more power would go into battery charging?

 

[jibes138]

Good point Ward H. I'm not sure what percent of the total the steaming light represents. The alternator is a 51 Ampere model. The light is 10W. Since W = V x A then A = 10/12 = .83A

% = .83/51 x 100 = 1.63%

I guess coupled with the other two bulbs for the running light on the bow and stearn this adds up to about 5%. draw on the alternator. so there is some advantage to your point. The new fixture came with light bulbs. When they burn out I'll see about putting in LED bulbs. I didn't really care for the LED festoon bulb that fits the steaming light fixture. It comes with little adaptors you put over the ends to get the right length for your particular fixture. This looks like adding two more failure points and additional resistance to the circuit. I didn't see an LED option for the Aqua Signal masthead fixture. The new fixture by the way was an expensive piece of junk, while installing I found a cold solder joint in the ground wire in the fixture (factory solder joint) that separated while I was torqueing the ground wire. I spliced in a jumper but was not happy with the quality. The wire was not bonded to the copper contact at all :>( .

 

[Ward H]

That's always a problem when you upgrade something to new. The "new" is often worse quality than the original.
Thanks for the explanation. I suppose it comes down to a boats charging system and how often and long you motor at night if there is any real advantage. Yes on a small system such as an outboard charging system and no on a larger system.
Thanks

 

[25yearslater]

Yes! So launch day came and went but not without a few minor hitches. The first was the linkage required for the new single lever shift/throttle. I was stunned at how readily the Atomic Bomb fired up after its' nap. Never even made it through a full cycle of the pistons and it was purring away. A bit high on the idle that a quick adjustment on the thottle cable pivot cured. Next was no reverse gear. Again a few turns of the ball joints solved this. This setup is far easier on the shoulders than jamming the shifter on the old setup was. The mechanical advantage has proven far superior with the intermediated lever. Next I screwed up the lower shroud placement resulting in only a few threads engaged on the aft and almost buriied on the fore. A trip up the mast and reversing the placement solved that. Note to self: Use a bosuns chair and not a rope sling as it is easier on the butt. Those marks aren't going away anytime soon. So the 27 due to its' wider beam aft, duh, gets the 201.5 inch shroud and the fore gets the 201 inch. Now with both about one third of their available thread engaged its' time to go for year two.

 

[JonnyQuest]

Good to hear it all came together for you Joe. Shrouds are likely on my next year list. Haven't decided which next year however. ;-)

 

[jibes138]

Happy sailing Joe. I am waiting for some more parts this week then hope to launch maybe 1st week in June. Replacing all my non-tinned wire in my mast and new light fixtures + new antenna cable and connectors. My wind instrument is shot but I'm not in the mood to spend a couple grand on replacing it. Maybe next haul out in about three years. I'm also going to rebed all my chainplates with butyl. Hope I don't find wet decks in the area, I don't have any leaks but you never know what you'll find in these projects. I might need your non-skid recipe if I have to recore the deck by the chainplates. If I do I'll go with solid glass in the local area. Stay tuned.

 

[JonnyQuest]

Well the new shifter setup works grand. This is the Vetus SISCO with some adaptation to the standard setup that is easy to make. Here is that hole for the wires Jonny. I rerouted most around the aft edge of the liner and back to the panel. If I had any ambition I would have enlarged the hole.

Joe, finally got to look at that photo you posted here where you re-routed your wires through the liner--thanks, that helped out alot. I hadn't thought of punching out below the liner cavity space. When I redo my wiring I may follow your example.

JQ

 

[25yearslater]

Well as another season is about to close I thought I would make one final post. After YOT's second year careening about Lake Ontario I am happy to report everything continues to perform beyond my wildest expectations. I did want to take this opportunity to thank many of you who have personified the best that sailing has to offer. Unfortunately as with many forums the level of contentiousness and incivility always seems to manifest and make what was once enjoyable a source of disgust. It is always a shame when some individuals damaged egos need constant nutrition at the expense of others. So with that this is the s/v YOT - out.

 

[JonnyQuest]

Joe, glad to hear the season went well. Do you have off season projects planned for YOT?

 

[SailingCal21]

Joe,

I trust that you're simply ending this thread and not terminating your contributions to the forum! Or perhaps you're taking a sabbatical to focus on converting this thread to a book or a series of magazine articles chronicling your experiences in the restoration process.

Your experience, knowledge and enthusiasm are needed.