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  • ToddL214
    Finished!
    Those replacement bulkheads look great and appear to match well to the other woodwork I can see in the photos. I'll try to figure out how to...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    You can use both panels at the same time. Because they are completely seperate sytems. The only reason you have a master over ride switch on you...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    I am replacing the original panel all together. The original panel is not waterproof and is down by the floor. I'm also adding circuits. The...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    Yes, you can have the DC panel & the AC panel active at the same time. They are electricity seperate systems.
  • hudson_rogue
    SERENITY
    And you don't have an override like on a house generator breaker, you just make sure all switches except your master/battery switch are off while...

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August 2012. Amazing Grace, the 1999 C48 that appeared at Portofino (and thus on the cover of Ferenc Mate's book 'World's Greatest Sailboats') arrives at the shop for a refit. It has been bought by a world-renowned artist and has been renamed Light Reign. We've redone about 80 percent of this boat including all new Awlgrip, new rigging, and replacement of just about everything in the bilge.

August 2012. Amazing Grace, the 1999 C48 that appeared at Portofino (and thus on the cover of Ferenc Mate's book 'World's Greatest Sailboats') arrives at the shop for a refit. It has been bought by a world-renowned artist and has been renamed Light Reign. We've redone about 80 percent of this boat including all new Awlgrip, new rigging, and replacement of just about everything in the bilge.

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13 April 2012. C44 hull no.0, 'Emerald'. This is the original strip-planked boat that was built in 1973-75 by my dad, my brother, me, Frit and Lee. It was supposed to have been my dad's actual boat, for which my little Diana is named. That never happened because we sold too many boats too early and had to hurry into making a plug over it. It was finished in 1981-82 by a know-it-all engineer who apparently never asked a single question about what makes boats reliable, safe and easy to maintain. It has some beautiful woodwork below but also a hollow bowsprit with a galvanized-steel frame, no internal access to the stuffing box, a bilge completely full of twisted hoses, wiring and cable, and various fittings screwed straight into the planking with no bedding compound. Lee and I spent all summer resolving much of the PO's nightmares for the new owner, who sailed it south after October.

13 April 2012. C44 hull no.0, 'Emerald'. This is the original strip-planked boat that was built in 1973-75 by my dad, my brother, me, Frit and Lee. It was supposed to have been my dad's actual boat, for which my little Diana is named. That never happened because we sold too many boats too early and had to hurry into making a plug over it. It was finished in 1981-82 by a know-it-all engineer who apparently never asked a single question about what makes boats reliable, safe and easy to maintain. It has some beautiful woodwork below but also a hollow bowsprit with a galvanized-steel frame, no internal access to the stuffing box, a bilge completely full of twisted hoses, wiring and cable, and various fittings screwed straight into the planking with no bedding compound. Lee and I spent all summer resolving much of the PO's nightmares for the new owner, who sailed it south after October.

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13 July 2012. 'No, see, it goes to eleven. It's one more.' :)

13 July 2012. 'No, see, it goes to eleven. It's one more.' :)

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14 April 2012. Blockhenge, in the yard.

14 April 2012. Blockhenge, in the yard.

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31 July 2012. The very cool customized Igloo 5-day campers'-spec cooler. There is much more detail about this on the blog; but the plexiglass divider and grille are meant to contain cube ice while still leaving a space in front for tall items like milk and iced tea. The step of the ladder is hinged to allow one to lift the cooler lid.

31 July 2012. The very cool customized Igloo 5-day campers'-spec cooler. There is much more detail about this on the blog; but the plexiglass divider and grille are meant to contain cube ice while still leaving a space in front for tall items like milk and iced tea. The step of the ladder is hinged to allow one to lift the cooler lid.

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15 September 2012. Photo taken in the dark of my cute little mast step. Originally the boat's hatch shroud had a rounded front and a flat section moulded into it for the mast to stand on. I hated this for two reasons-- it's a Band-Aid over a bigger problem, which is having the mast stand on cored deck; and it doesn't allow one to ever take the hatch shroud off without unstepping the rig. I am cutting off the old shroud and building an old-fashioned mahogany spray board on the front of it-- and my latest brainchild is to include a Dorade box to each forward corner. The one to starboard will house a 12vdc fan; the one to port will house the 12vdc horn and deck outlet (the same as on C44s and C48s!). This was fabricated out of solid 1/2" G-10 plate and will be filled with epoxy mixed with microfibers and then provided with a healthy fillet all around. On top of it goes the halyard-block organizer and the aluminum mast step I am making.

15 September 2012. Photo taken in the dark of my cute little mast step. Originally the boat's hatch shroud had a rounded front and a flat section moulded into it for the mast to stand on. I hated this for two reasons-- it's a Band-Aid over a bigger problem, which is having the mast stand on cored deck; and it doesn't allow one to ever take the hatch shroud off without unstepping the rig. I am cutting off the old shroud and building an old-fashioned mahogany spray board on the front of it-- and my latest brainchild is to include a Dorade box to each forward corner. The one to starboard will house a 12vdc fan; the one to port will house the 12vdc horn and deck outlet (the same as on C44s and C48s!). This was fabricated out of solid 1/2" G-10 plate and will be filled with epoxy mixed with microfibers and then provided with a healthy fillet all around. On top of it goes the halyard-block organizer and the aluminum mast step I am making.

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15 September 2012. Not the best picture of the coaming alongside of the companionway hatch. This mahogany butts into the molded coaming just forward and provides a hand-hold, a water dam and a place on which I can mount the dodger rail's feet. The halyard winches go outboard, port and starboard.

15 September 2012. Not the best picture of the coaming alongside of the companionway hatch. This mahogany butts into the molded coaming just forward and provides a hand-hold, a water dam and a place on which I can mount the dodger rail's feet. The halyard winches go outboard, port and starboard.

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19 September 2012. Right after I got the last of the bottom down to well-sanded gelcoat. I love this pic-- the boat looks about ready to fly off the stands. What a terrific hull shape this little boat has. (The bow is at a 60-degree angle to the waterline. This is my dad's trademark with the early Hunters.)

19 September 2012. Right after I got the last of the bottom down to well-sanded gelcoat. I love this pic-- the boat looks about ready to fly off the stands. What a terrific hull shape this little boat has. (The bow is at a 60-degree angle to the waterline. This is my dad's trademark with the early Hunters.)

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25 August 2012. Under threat of rain all week I replaced the cockpit drains one and a time, so as to always have one active. The old ones were in the back bulkhead of the cockpit; they are patched in this picture. I would have liked the new fittings I got to have been stainless; the brass will go green in short order. But I may yet paint them in epoxy paint-- or just Krylon. I found these little fittings at Ferguson Plumbing and discovered my Forespar Marelon elbows screw on very nicely-- even a little too loosely; so they're loaded up with Teflon tape.

25 August 2012. Under threat of rain all week I replaced the cockpit drains one and a time, so as to always have one active. The old ones were in the back bulkhead of the cockpit; they are patched in this picture. I would have liked the new fittings I got to have been stainless; the brass will go green in short order. But I may yet paint them in epoxy paint-- or just Krylon. I found these little fittings at Ferguson Plumbing and discovered my Forespar Marelon elbows screw on very nicely-- even a little too loosely; so they're loaded up with Teflon tape.

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14 April 2012. As I was stripping the bottom I noticed these ancient runes. I am no Hobbit and am unable to translate them. (They are cracks in the gelcoat. The hull is not wet however and sanding and Pettit Protect will resolve this.)

14 April 2012. As I was stripping the bottom I noticed these ancient runes. I am no Hobbit and am unable to translate them. (They are cracks in the gelcoat. The hull is not wet however and sanding and Pettit Protect will resolve this.)

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16 November 2011. The 'Wire-O-Matic', the only sane solution for running wiring really anywhere. I made this one out of an extra Tempo battery box, drilling it to accept a piece of 1/2" CPVC which is held in by 1/4" clevis pins and even circ-clips. We've made them out of cardboard boxes at the shop-- but always it has to have a magic-marker label on it calling it the 'Wire-O-Matic' (or 'Hose-O-Matic' or 'Rope-O-Matic'). Obviously I have been sharing ground returns on some of these circuits-- using twice as much red as yellow.

16 November 2011. The 'Wire-O-Matic', the only sane solution for running wiring really anywhere. I made this one out of an extra Tempo battery box, drilling it to accept a piece of 1/2" CPVC which is held in by 1/4" clevis pins and even circ-clips. We've made them out of cardboard boxes at the shop-- but always it has to have a magic-marker label on it calling it the 'Wire-O-Matic' (or 'Hose-O-Matic' or 'Rope-O-Matic'). Obviously I have been sharing ground returns on some of these circuits-- using twice as much red as yellow.

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September 2011. Diana's bridge deck. I found this scrap of manufactured decking from the ruins of the 'Independence Cherubini' fiasco. The 2" teak planks come bonded edge-to-edge with Thiakol. I laminated this over a piece of 3/8" which was curved to (sort of) the crown of the cockpit seats. Prior to that I had filled in the lower section of the companionway hatch by laying up 'glass against the teak plywood of the inside, which I had left high here on purpose. The opening gets an ash threshold and new trim cheek pieces. The mainsheet traveler goes across the after edge of this little deck with a 2" wide backing plate and aluminum knees underneath. These in turn get masked by a facia board across the back which was originally going to house the compass; but I decided that was too far down to crane my old neck. It will have the engine start switch and switches for the instrument lights and the cockpit footlights however. So I may have the only Hunter 25 in the world with a teak deck! :)

September 2011. Diana's bridge deck. I found this scrap of manufactured decking from the ruins of the 'Independence Cherubini' fiasco. The 2" teak planks come bonded edge-to-edge with Thiakol. I laminated this over a piece of 3/8" which was curved to (sort of) the crown of the cockpit seats. Prior to that I had filled in the lower section of the companionway hatch by laying up 'glass against the teak plywood of the inside, which I had left high here on purpose. The opening gets an ash threshold and new trim cheek pieces. The mainsheet traveler goes across the after edge of this little deck with a 2" wide backing plate and aluminum knees underneath. These in turn get masked by a facia board across the back which was originally going to house the compass; but I decided that was too far down to crane my old neck. It will have the engine start switch and switches for the instrument lights and the cockpit footlights however. So I may have the only Hunter 25 in the world with a teak deck! :)

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2 March 2012. Diana's poop tank, installed in the aftmost compartment under the vee berth. This is a standard 9-gallon tank with the fittings installed witn 5200, same as I have done on C44s in the past. It sits on a shelf of Starboard. The holes in the boat's bottom are for all the seacocks (except the galley sink drain) and the low bulkheads to the sides are meant to contain muck and water in the event of a leak. The doughnuts lying in the bins are the backing plates-- solid vinylester fiberglass, cut-out from the access holes in the sides of Cherubini CC20 cockpits-- about the very best thing you can use for a seacock backing plate. The wood along the aft edge of the opening is a new (epoxied) cleat to catch the lift-out panel. To each side can be seen the CPVC vent lines for the tank-- in taking Peggy Hall's advice I made the lines rigid to avoid droops which collect goop as the boat heels. They lead up to SS through-hulls in the hull just under the toerail. The more air in the tank, the better!

2 March 2012. Diana's poop tank, installed in the aftmost compartment under the vee berth. This is a standard 9-gallon tank with the fittings installed witn 5200, same as I have done on C44s in the past. It sits on a shelf of Starboard. The holes in the boat's bottom are for all the seacocks (except the galley sink drain) and the low bulkheads to the sides are meant to contain muck and water in the event of a leak. The doughnuts lying in the bins are the backing plates-- solid vinylester fiberglass, cut-out from the access holes in the sides of Cherubini CC20 cockpits-- about the very best thing you can use for a seacock backing plate. The wood along the aft edge of the opening is a new (epoxied) cleat to catch the lift-out panel. To each side can be seen the CPVC vent lines for the tank-- in taking Peggy Hall's advice I made the lines rigid to avoid droops which collect goop as the boat heels. They lead up to SS through-hulls in the hull just under the toerail. The more air in the tank, the better!

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9 March 2012. Bilge of Diana (did you know Hunter 25s have a bilge?). These joists are all 5/4 mahogany, well-saturated in epoxy. None of them touch the actual bottom of the hull-- they are all spanned from side to side along the garboard. The forward one is doubled and supports the compression post. The middle one has cleats fore and aft, meant to support the table leg and the forward and after lift-out panels. The starboard side sole is installed-- this was just before I installed the other side. The piece atop the paint can that looks like 2/3 of a joist goes in the head compartment (top of pic). The awful yellow-brown stuff is spilled/dribbled/extra epoxy. The large patch at the aft end is a 'glass patch over old drainage holes. This will all be painted in Bilgekote.

9 March 2012. Bilge of Diana (did you know Hunter 25s have a bilge?). These joists are all 5/4 mahogany, well-saturated in epoxy. None of them touch the actual bottom of the hull-- they are all spanned from side to side along the garboard. The forward one is doubled and supports the compression post. The middle one has cleats fore and aft, meant to support the table leg and the forward and after lift-out panels. The starboard side sole is installed-- this was just before I installed the other side. The piece atop the paint can that looks like 2/3 of a joist goes in the head compartment (top of pic). The awful yellow-brown stuff is spilled/dribbled/extra epoxy. The large patch at the aft end is a 'glass patch over old drainage holes. This will all be painted in Bilgekote.

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November 2011. Aft end of cabin showing 'ladder' and cooler cubbyhole. The access hole in the bottom of the cubby is to faciliate the cooler drain-- the white PVC receptacle leads into the bilge. The outboard sections of sole are installed-- awaiting paint and nonskid. The center section is just a hunk of plywood-- this will be mahogany plywood, varnished, later.

November 2011. Aft end of cabin showing 'ladder' and cooler cubbyhole. The access hole in the bottom of the cubby is to faciliate the cooler drain-- the white PVC receptacle leads into the bilge. The outboard sections of sole are installed-- awaiting paint and nonskid. The center section is just a hunk of plywood-- this will be mahogany plywood, varnished, later.

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27 June 2012. This is an almost-fuzzy pic of the boom after I filled all the extraneous screwholes with aluminum screws and Loc-Tite and then broke them off and sanded them smooth. This is really the only way to fill holes in spars.

27 June 2012. This is an almost-fuzzy pic of the boom after I filled all the extraneous screwholes with aluminum screws and Loc-Tite and then broke them off and sanded them smooth. This is really the only way to fill holes in spars.

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15 September 2012. Here is the overhead locker above the quarter berth with the first of the trimmed lift-out panels installed. All of this has to come apart again for finish paint; this is just the first one I did. I have to have a system for getting all these bits of trim cut straight and installed square. Notice the finger hole is at the bottom. They're all like that-- because you lift it UP to tug the bottom edge out to remove it.

15 September 2012. Here is the overhead locker above the quarter berth with the first of the trimmed lift-out panels installed. All of this has to come apart again for finish paint; this is just the first one I did. I have to have a system for getting all these bits of trim cut straight and installed square. Notice the finger hole is at the bottom. They're all like that-- because you lift it UP to tug the bottom edge out to remove it.

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13 July 2012. Main deck of Diana showing installed hatch rails. The green tape is a dam to keep epoxy from dribbling down over the windows. Needless to say this was the most-sound section of deck; but it's all pretty strong now. Upon the foredeck is the coaming and base of the new foredeck hatch, built as we do for C44s. The red stuff is blood-- from crawling all over between the cover and the deck with the screwgun I somehow cut open my knee.

13 July 2012. Main deck of Diana showing installed hatch rails. The green tape is a dam to keep epoxy from dribbling down over the windows. Needless to say this was the most-sound section of deck; but it's all pretty strong now. Upon the foredeck is the coaming and base of the new foredeck hatch, built as we do for C44s. The red stuff is blood-- from crawling all over between the cover and the deck with the screwgun I somehow cut open my knee.

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2 March 2012. Overhead panel, above the quarter berth. In the after (smaller) hole goes the VHF; above it go the horn switch, deck-outlet switch and cabin footlights switch. The bigger hole is the all-too-necessary wallets-and-sunglasses locker. In the opening outboard is the electrical panel; the drop-down door is removed for painting but the 115vac panel is there. I installed this bulkhead to divide the quarter berth from the settee; the vertical post is both to grab (thus precluding the need for overhead handrails) and to stiffen the end of the bulkhead.

2 March 2012. Overhead panel, above the quarter berth. In the after (smaller) hole goes the VHF; above it go the horn switch, deck-outlet switch and cabin footlights switch. The bigger hole is the all-too-necessary wallets-and-sunglasses locker. In the opening outboard is the electrical panel; the drop-down door is removed for painting but the 115vac panel is there. I installed this bulkhead to divide the quarter berth from the settee; the vertical post is both to grab (thus precluding the need for overhead handrails) and to stiffen the end of the bulkhead.

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September 2011. These are the parts to the head sink which I mocked up for this photo. The nearer section of the countertop (aft) lifts up for access to the 4"-deep bin above the berth footwell. The two lockers outboard are mirrored on the other side, though being above the toilet they are taller and therefore bigger.

September 2011. These are the parts to the head sink which I mocked up for this photo. The nearer section of the countertop (aft) lifts up for access to the 4"-deep bin above the berth footwell. The two lockers outboard are mirrored on the other side, though being above the toilet they are taller and therefore bigger.

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Setepmber 2011. Remodelled quarter-berth area of Diana showing the lockers and after end of the electrical panel. The teak is plywood bonded to the inside of the cabin back. The small locker in the distance is formed out of the 'glass tabbing for the old bulkhead which I ripped out (with bare hands) to extend the berth 9 inches. It's now about 6'5".

Setepmber 2011. Remodelled quarter-berth area of Diana showing the lockers and after end of the electrical panel. The teak is plywood bonded to the inside of the cabin back. The small locker in the distance is formed out of the 'glass tabbing for the old bulkhead which I ripped out (with bare hands) to extend the berth 9 inches. It's now about 6'5".

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September 2011. Diana's main cabin, showing my 'temporary' workbench standing in the settee and the new compression post. The 'Picasso' on the bulkhead is a shoebox lid :)

September 2011. Diana's main cabin, showing my 'temporary' workbench standing in the settee and the new compression post. The 'Picasso' on the bulkhead is a shoebox lid :)

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12 December 2012. My second cousin Aimee (Joe's granddaughter) showed up to check on her friend Gary's Raider 33 which was coming down from Staten Island with Storm Sandy damage.

12 December 2012. My second cousin Aimee (Joe's granddaughter) showed up to check on her friend Gary's Raider 33 which was coming down from Staten Island with Storm Sandy damage.

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19 October 2012. Capt Mike Lawrence (Light Reign), me and yardmate Roy Vollmer (Riverton YC) model hats for CY.

19 October 2012. Capt Mike Lawrence (Light Reign), me and yardmate Roy Vollmer (Riverton YC) model hats for CY.

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