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  • A
    1975 o'day 22
    will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
  • Monsterfish
    Looking forward to V-berth.
    Wow.....dream home!
  • D
    MacGregor 26s
    Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
  • P
    Marilee-Interior.jpg
    This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
  • JohnScott
    DSCN8846
    CHILD LABOR

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15 September 2012. Here is the overhead locker above the quarter berth with the first of the trimmed lift-out panels installed. All of this has to come apart again for finish paint; this is just the first one I did. I have to have a system for getting all these bits of trim cut straight and installed square. Notice the finger hole is at the bottom. They're all like that-- because you lift it UP to tug the bottom edge out to remove it.

15 September 2012. Here is the overhead locker above the quarter berth with the first of the trimmed lift-out panels installed. All of this has to come apart again for finish paint; this is just the first one I did. I have to have a system for getting all these bits of trim cut straight and installed square. Notice the finger hole is at the bottom. They're all like that-- because you lift it UP to tug the bottom edge out to remove it.

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13 July 2012. Main deck of Diana showing installed hatch rails. The green tape is a dam to keep epoxy from dribbling down over the windows. Needless to say this was the most-sound section of deck; but it's all pretty strong now. Upon the foredeck is the coaming and base of the new foredeck hatch, built as we do for C44s. The red stuff is blood-- from crawling all over between the cover and the deck with the screwgun I somehow cut open my knee.

13 July 2012. Main deck of Diana showing installed hatch rails. The green tape is a dam to keep epoxy from dribbling down over the windows. Needless to say this was the most-sound section of deck; but it's all pretty strong now. Upon the foredeck is the coaming and base of the new foredeck hatch, built as we do for C44s. The red stuff is blood-- from crawling all over between the cover and the deck with the screwgun I somehow cut open my knee.

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2 March 2012. Overhead panel, above the quarter berth. In the after (smaller) hole goes the VHF; above it go the horn switch, deck-outlet switch and cabin footlights switch. The bigger hole is the all-too-necessary wallets-and-sunglasses locker. In the opening outboard is the electrical panel; the drop-down door is removed for painting but the 115vac panel is there. I installed this bulkhead to divide the quarter berth from the settee; the vertical post is both to grab (thus precluding the need for overhead handrails) and to stiffen the end of the bulkhead.

2 March 2012. Overhead panel, above the quarter berth. In the after (smaller) hole goes the VHF; above it go the horn switch, deck-outlet switch and cabin footlights switch. The bigger hole is the all-too-necessary wallets-and-sunglasses locker. In the opening outboard is the electrical panel; the drop-down door is removed for painting but the 115vac panel is there. I installed this bulkhead to divide the quarter berth from the settee; the vertical post is both to grab (thus precluding the need for overhead handrails) and to stiffen the end of the bulkhead.

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September 2011. These are the parts to the head sink which I mocked up for this photo. The nearer section of the countertop (aft) lifts up for access to the 4"-deep bin above the berth footwell. The two lockers outboard are mirrored on the other side, though being above the toilet they are taller and therefore bigger.

September 2011. These are the parts to the head sink which I mocked up for this photo. The nearer section of the countertop (aft) lifts up for access to the 4"-deep bin above the berth footwell. The two lockers outboard are mirrored on the other side, though being above the toilet they are taller and therefore bigger.

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Setepmber 2011. Remodelled quarter-berth area of Diana showing the lockers and after end of the electrical panel. The teak is plywood bonded to the inside of the cabin back. The small locker in the distance is formed out of the 'glass tabbing for the old bulkhead which I ripped out (with bare hands) to extend the berth 9 inches. It's now about 6'5".

Setepmber 2011. Remodelled quarter-berth area of Diana showing the lockers and after end of the electrical panel. The teak is plywood bonded to the inside of the cabin back. The small locker in the distance is formed out of the 'glass tabbing for the old bulkhead which I ripped out (with bare hands) to extend the berth 9 inches. It's now about 6'5".

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September 2011. Diana's main cabin, showing my 'temporary' workbench standing in the settee and the new compression post. The 'Picasso' on the bulkhead is a shoebox lid :)

September 2011. Diana's main cabin, showing my 'temporary' workbench standing in the settee and the new compression post. The 'Picasso' on the bulkhead is a shoebox lid :)

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12 December 2012. My second cousin Aimee (Joe's granddaughter) showed up to check on her friend Gary's Raider 33 which was coming down from Staten Island with Storm Sandy damage.

12 December 2012. My second cousin Aimee (Joe's granddaughter) showed up to check on her friend Gary's Raider 33 which was coming down from Staten Island with Storm Sandy damage.

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19 October 2012. Capt Mike Lawrence (Light Reign), me and yardmate Roy Vollmer (Riverton YC) model hats for CY.

19 October 2012. Capt Mike Lawrence (Light Reign), me and yardmate Roy Vollmer (Riverton YC) model hats for CY.

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16 July 2012. Diana models her remodelled cabin windows on a rare day with the cover off. The bottom took me most of the summer (while working as well) to strip clear.

16 July 2012. Diana models her remodelled cabin windows on a rare day with the cover off. The bottom took me most of the summer (while working as well) to strip clear.

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September 2011. This is Diana's remodelled galley; the lift-out panels are not finished yet and so not in place. I have since changed the plan for the smaller athwartships bulkhead which will be C44-style drawers.

September 2011. This is Diana's remodelled galley; the lift-out panels are not finished yet and so not in place. I have since changed the plan for the smaller athwartships bulkhead which will be C44-style drawers.

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12 December 2012. I was mechanically stripping the boom gallows on C48 no.9 Light Reign (ex- Amazing Grace) when Melissa took this pic for the CY web page. Notice the waterline stripe that leaves the whole rudder underwater. This is what happens when owners add too much stuff aft. We the whole staff are in a concerted effort to redistribute weight in this boat.

12 December 2012. I was mechanically stripping the boom gallows on C48 no.9 Light Reign (ex- Amazing Grace) when Melissa took this pic for the CY web page. Notice the waterline stripe that leaves the whole rudder underwater. This is what happens when owners add too much stuff aft. We the whole staff are in a concerted effort to redistribute weight in this boat.

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DSC01279 On an O'Day 222, the side stay chainplates are aft of the mast as seen in the picture. Where the snap hook is connected to the stay, I'm using a long thin stainless steel "D" shackle attached to a turnbuckle toggle and this is where it has to go. The other snap hook is attached to a pad eye mounted through my deck on both sides of my boat. Note* In making up your pivot bridles, you need to make all the rope adjustments first before mounting the pad eyes. This requires that you snap one end of the pivot bridle you are make up, into the stay shackle and also snap it into the pad eye and just make your rope length adjustment by stretching out the pivot bridle while holding the pad eye to the deck until you can make the ring height and rope length adjustment by eye balling it. Remember, what we need to do at this point is get the rope lengths even and the ring needs to be even with the pivot point of the mast. Once you've attained this, mark the location of the pad eye on the deck with a pencil and mount it. After you've completed the first pivot bridle you can use it as a pattern to make up your other bridle. Then you can test it out by connecting it to the stay shackle on the other side of the boat and the loose pad eye by stretching it out and eye balling it. Both pad eyes should be about the same distance away from the chainplate on both sides of the boat. When you're able to get it right, then you can mount the pad eye on that side of the boat. I'm no expert on this, believe me. The fist time I mounted the pad eyes on my deck, I screwed up and mounted them in the wrong place. Consequently my bridles were uneven and I had to remember that the short rope on each bridle had to be snapped to the pad eye on both sides of the boat. After a year or two I decided to remove the pad eyes and use this procedure in order to get my bridles even. This required boring four new holes and filling the other four holes with Fiberglas Epoxy mixed with filler. Hey listen. I have several other holes on my deck where I had removed useless hardware, another four holes ain't going to make any difference. I just want anyone who reads this to understand where I'm coming from. I've been through the school of hard knocks just like you have and I've had more than my share of screw ups.

DSC01279 On an O'Day 222, the side stay chainplates are aft of the mast as seen in the picture. Where the snap hook is connected to the stay, I'm using a long thin stainless steel "D" shackle attached to a turnbuckle toggle and this is where it has to go. The other snap hook is attached to a pad eye mounted through my deck on both sides of my boat. Note* In making up your pivot bridles, you need to make all the rope adjustments first before mounting the pad eyes. This requires that you snap one end of the pivot bridle you are make up, into the stay shackle and also snap it into the pad eye and just make your rope length adjustment by stretching out the pivot bridle while holding the pad eye to the deck until you can make the ring height and rope length adjustment by eye balling it. Remember, what we need to do at this point is get the rope lengths even and the ring needs to be even with the pivot point of the mast. Once you've attained this, mark the location of the pad eye on the deck with a pencil and mount it. After you've completed the first pivot bridle you can use it as a pattern to make up your other bridle. Then you can test it out by connecting it to the stay shackle on the other side of the boat and the loose pad eye by stretching it out and eye balling it. Both pad eyes should be about the same distance away from the chainplate on both sides of the boat. When you're able to get it right, then you can mount the pad eye on that side of the boat. I'm no expert on this, believe me. The fist time I mounted the pad eyes on my deck, I screwed up and mounted them in the wrong place. Consequently my bridles were uneven and I had to remember that the short rope on each bridle had to be snapped to the pad eye on both sides of the boat. After a year or two I decided to remove the pad eyes and use this procedure in order to get my bridles even. This required boring four new holes and filling the other four holes with Fiberglas Epoxy mixed with filler. Hey listen. I have several other holes on my deck where I had removed useless hardware, another four holes ain't going to make any difference. I just want anyone who reads this to understand where I'm coming from. I've been through the school of hard knocks just like you have and I've had more than my share of screw ups.

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DSC01158 The pivot bridle shown in the picture is made up of two ropes, a large stainless steel ring and a couple of snap hooks. I have my pivot bridles pre-adjusted so that when they are connected and stretched out, the rings come even with the pivot point of the mast tabernacle. The thin line connected to the ring in this bridle is one of my baby stays which is attached to the mast yoke. The thicker rope is a bridle which is connected to the end of my Gin Pole. Note* If you make up a set of pivot bridles, it is important that you adjust the ropes so that they are even. This way, you can use them on either side of the boat.

DSC01158 The pivot bridle shown in the picture is made up of two ropes, a large stainless steel ring and a couple of snap hooks. I have my pivot bridles pre-adjusted so that when they are connected and stretched out, the rings come even with the pivot point of the mast tabernacle. The thin line connected to the ring in this bridle is one of my baby stays which is attached to the mast yoke. The thicker rope is a bridle which is connected to the end of my Gin Pole. Note* If you make up a set of pivot bridles, it is important that you adjust the ropes so that they are even. This way, you can use them on either side of the boat.

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IMG 0001 I use the "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" around the vinyl luff of the furler and then I take a round turn around the Gin Pole about 2/3s of the way out from the mast and secure it with two half hitches. The round turn with the half hitches can be seen in the pic just to the left of the furler luff. Now, with the excess line, take it around the vinyl luff and entrap it to the Gin Pole with a couple of half hitches around the Gin Pole.

IMG 0001 I use the "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" around the vinyl luff of the furler and then I take a round turn around the Gin Pole about 2/3s of the way out from the mast and secure it with two half hitches. The round turn with the half hitches can be seen in the pic just to the left of the furler luff. Now, with the excess line, take it around the vinyl luff and entrap it to the Gin Pole with a couple of half hitches around the Gin Pole.

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DSC01038 In mast raising with a roller furler connected to the mast the question arises; What do I do with the fuler while the mast is going up or coming down? Well, you could have the Mate hold and guide it with the mast, or if you're by yourself, you can tie the furler luff off to the Gin Pole as seen in the picture.

DSC01038 In mast raising with a roller furler connected to the mast the question arises; What do I do with the fuler while the mast is going up or coming down? Well, you could have the Mate hold and guide it with the mast, or if you're by yourself, you can tie the furler luff off to the Gin Pole as seen in the picture.

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100 0749

100 0749

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Long Island Bahamas 2010 002

Long Island Bahamas 2010 002

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100 0626

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Blue Sailboat and sky

Blue Sailboat and sky

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000 0134

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000 0191

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DSC00423 For lack of a better term for his device, I've been calling it a mast yoke. It's main purpose is to anchor the temporary stays (baby stays) to the pivot bridles on each side of the boat. The baby stays offer some lateral stability in raising or lowering the mast. If you have a good roller reefing furler I recommend that you make up baby stays and pivot bridles if your boat is designed like this boat. If your boat's cabin top is designed like a MacGregor, you would only need the mast yoke and the baby stays. I firmly believe that this mast yoke would also work on an O'Day 25 or 26 in conjuntion with baby stays attached to the triangular plates, along with the boom bridles for over the bow mast raising.

DSC00423 For lack of a better term for his device, I've been calling it a mast yoke. It's main purpose is to anchor the temporary stays (baby stays) to the pivot bridles on each side of the boat. The baby stays offer some lateral stability in raising or lowering the mast. If you have a good roller reefing furler I recommend that you make up baby stays and pivot bridles if your boat is designed like this boat. If your boat's cabin top is designed like a MacGregor, you would only need the mast yoke and the baby stays. I firmly believe that this mast yoke would also work on an O'Day 25 or 26 in conjuntion with baby stays attached to the triangular plates, along with the boom bridles for over the bow mast raising.

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DSC00628 The stern rail as mentioned previously is very helpful for supporting the mast crutch. I favor this mast crutch set up because it allows you to mount your rudder on the stern at the ramp and launch your boat if you choose to raise your mast with the boat sitting at the dock. Having a roller inside the crutch allows you to roll the mast aft or forward instead of having to man handle it as I was doing for many years.

DSC00628 The stern rail as mentioned previously is very helpful for supporting the mast crutch. I favor this mast crutch set up because it allows you to mount your rudder on the stern at the ramp and launch your boat if you choose to raise your mast with the boat sitting at the dock. Having a roller inside the crutch allows you to roll the mast aft or forward instead of having to man handle it as I was doing for many years.

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DSC00627 In essence what we see in this pic is a Gin Pole with a small boat winch attached to it, pivot bridles, and the baby stays. It takes a little time to set this mast raising rig up but we only do this a couple of times a year, as we both rent moorings at the yacht club.

DSC00627 In essence what we see in this pic is a Gin Pole with a small boat winch attached to it, pivot bridles, and the baby stays. It takes a little time to set this mast raising rig up but we only do this a couple of times a year, as we both rent moorings at the yacht club.

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