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  • ToddL214
    Finished!
    Those replacement bulkheads look great and appear to match well to the other woodwork I can see in the photos. I'll try to figure out how to...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    You can use both panels at the same time. Because they are completely seperate sytems. The only reason you have a master over ride switch on you...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    I am replacing the original panel all together. The original panel is not waterproof and is down by the floor. I'm also adding circuits. The...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    Yes, you can have the DC panel & the AC panel active at the same time. They are electricity seperate systems.
  • hudson_rogue
    SERENITY
    And you don't have an override like on a house generator breaker, you just make sure all switches except your master/battery switch are off while...

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Nan Sea in slip at Harbortown

Nan Sea in slip at Harbortown

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Nan Sea after detailing

Nan Sea after detailing

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Nancy on Nan Sea

Nancy on Nan Sea

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Me on the boat

Me on the boat

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Ericson 29 - purchased 1/13 - docked Oriental, NC

Ericson 29 - purchased 1/13 - docked Oriental, NC

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Sailing Charlotte Harbor in Guppy - Sanibel 17

Sailing Charlotte Harbor in Guppy - Sanibel 17

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Small door

Small door

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DSC01249 Here's my boom vang. It has about 55' of 3/8" braid line on it and I use it to raise my mast as well as it's intended use which is a boom vang.

DSC01249 Here's my boom vang. It has about 55' of 3/8" braid line on it and I use it to raise my mast as well as it's intended use which is a boom vang.

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SS Gin Pole sketch The Gin Pole. I keep it down below in my quarter birth compartment. It's there whenever I need it.

SS Gin Pole sketch The Gin Pole. I keep it down below in my quarter birth compartment. It's there whenever I need it.

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IMG 0027 With a rear mast crutch mounted on the stern rail you can mount your rudder on the transom before you back down the ramp. All you need to do is center the tiller and tie it off to keep the rudder blade straight. It also helps if you have a rudder blade hold-up pendant line.

IMG 0027 With a rear mast crutch mounted on the stern rail you can mount your rudder on the transom before you back down the ramp. All you need to do is center the tiller and tie it off to keep the rudder blade straight. It also helps if you have a rudder blade hold-up pendant line.

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DSC01268 This is another method of attaching the baby stays to your mast. I tried it for one season and abandoned it for the mast yoke. Some dude wrote and article in Small Craft Advisor on mast raising and this is one of his "brain children." In essence what you see here is a S.S. ring attached to a sail slide in the mast track. The baby stays are tied to the ring and then snapped into the rings of the pivot bridles on both sides of the boat. The Main Halyard is attached to the ring and pulled up, cleated off at the bottom of the mast to tension the baby stays. I really found that setting this up was a big PITA. No hard feelings to the writer of the article but I'll stick with my mast yoke. Don't get me wrong. These are all good ideas. Try them out and if you like them, adopt them. There's always something better and easier though. You just have to come up with the idea.

DSC01268 This is another method of attaching the baby stays to your mast. I tried it for one season and abandoned it for the mast yoke. Some dude wrote and article in Small Craft Advisor on mast raising and this is one of his "brain children." In essence what you see here is a S.S. ring attached to a sail slide in the mast track. The baby stays are tied to the ring and then snapped into the rings of the pivot bridles on both sides of the boat. The Main Halyard is attached to the ring and pulled up, cleated off at the bottom of the mast to tension the baby stays. I really found that setting this up was a big PITA. No hard feelings to the writer of the article but I'll stick with my mast yoke. Don't get me wrong. These are all good ideas. Try them out and if you like them, adopt them. There's always something better and easier though. You just have to come up with the idea.

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DSC01265 Years ago, I didn't have a mast yoke to connect my baby stays to. All I did was tie a "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" to each of my lower stays and it worked OK. That's one hitch that won't slip, not even around an 1/8" stay wire.

DSC01265 Years ago, I didn't have a mast yoke to connect my baby stays to. All I did was tie a "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" to each of my lower stays and it worked OK. That's one hitch that won't slip, not even around an 1/8" stay wire.

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DSC00447 This gadget is indispensable on my boat. It's called a Johnson Handy-Lock. It's like a backstay adjuster. I don't use it for that. I only use it to throw slack into my fore stay to remove my furler when I want to lower my mast. One of the reasons why I had this installed was to rid my boat of the end of boom to the backstay sheeting by mounting a traveler in front of my companionway. It's important to leave the open turnbuckle on the backstay just above the HL so that the backstay can be removed from the mast head. The turn buckle also provides some extra adjustment if needed. These Handy-Locks are pricey but you may be able to buy a used one like I did, or buy a newer different adjustable lever type back stay adjuster similar to what is used on the Mac boats. This particular HR has a lever that you need to turn. They make one that works a little different than this one for cheaper money. I think that this HL would work on an O'Day 22 but I'm not sure. I never need to mess with my side stay turnbuckles when I want to loosen my forestay to drop my mast and this is the beauty of this gadget. It does it all.

DSC00447 This gadget is indispensable on my boat. It's called a Johnson Handy-Lock. It's like a backstay adjuster. I don't use it for that. I only use it to throw slack into my fore stay to remove my furler when I want to lower my mast. One of the reasons why I had this installed was to rid my boat of the end of boom to the backstay sheeting by mounting a traveler in front of my companionway. It's important to leave the open turnbuckle on the backstay just above the HL so that the backstay can be removed from the mast head. The turn buckle also provides some extra adjustment if needed. These Handy-Locks are pricey but you may be able to buy a used one like I did, or buy a newer different adjustable lever type back stay adjuster similar to what is used on the Mac boats. This particular HR has a lever that you need to turn. They make one that works a little different than this one for cheaper money. I think that this HL would work on an O'Day 22 but I'm not sure. I never need to mess with my side stay turnbuckles when I want to loosen my forestay to drop my mast and this is the beauty of this gadget. It does it all.

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DSC00445 Here's a good shot of my Port pivot bridle. You can't see it in the picture but the rope on the left is shorter than the the rope of the right. I had to keep remembering that the short rope on each bridle faces toward the bow. Once you install the pad eyes on the deck, there is no way to get your bridles even so that the rings come right with the pivot point of the mast. You really need to get your bridles made up first and get them even with the rings centered and at the right height, then you can mount the pad eyes. In theory, if you were to stand perpendicular to the mast with a plumb bob and try to mark the deck with the line going through the pivot point of the tabernacle, whatever measure you come up with from the shackle on the chainplate toggle should be the same measurement from that point on the deck to the pad eye. The centerline on my deck is 6" and my pad eye is mounted approximately 12" from my chainplate.

DSC00445 Here's a good shot of my Port pivot bridle. You can't see it in the picture but the rope on the left is shorter than the the rope of the right. I had to keep remembering that the short rope on each bridle faces toward the bow. Once you install the pad eyes on the deck, there is no way to get your bridles even so that the rings come right with the pivot point of the mast. You really need to get your bridles made up first and get them even with the rings centered and at the right height, then you can mount the pad eyes. In theory, if you were to stand perpendicular to the mast with a plumb bob and try to mark the deck with the line going through the pivot point of the tabernacle, whatever measure you come up with from the shackle on the chainplate toggle should be the same measurement from that point on the deck to the pad eye. The centerline on my deck is 6" and my pad eye is mounted approximately 12" from my chainplate.

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DSC00454 I needed to be able to stow my Gin Pole on board my boat so I got fancy and built it so it can come apart in two equal sections. Back in 2005 they were digging up my street and installing city sewage. You can see a construction device in the background which is used to keep a hole from caving in on the workers. There's my old GMC pickup. I got over 200,000 miles on it before I decided to trade it in for a newer one.

DSC00454 I needed to be able to stow my Gin Pole on board my boat so I got fancy and built it so it can come apart in two equal sections. Back in 2005 they were digging up my street and installing city sewage. You can see a construction device in the background which is used to keep a hole from caving in on the workers. There's my old GMC pickup. I got over 200,000 miles on it before I decided to trade it in for a newer one.

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DSC00434 Here's a pic of my old Gin Pole. Anyone can make one of these. It doesn't have to come apart and you don't need to use stainless steel hardware. The Gin pole provides the angle needed to raise your mast by using the Jib halyard and a boom vang or mainsheet blocks. You could also mount a small boat winch on the Gin pole and use that to pull your mast up. I have the yoke tied to the mast near the goose neck fitting and the end of my Gin Pole is about 1" to 2" from my forestay when the mast is up. If the Gin Pole is too short, the boom vang will have a tendency to pull the yoke out of the mast once the mast is up. If you set the Gin Pole too low on the mast, the Gin Pole will be too long and you'll have trouble reaching the end of the pole to snap your bridles in when the mast is laying horizontal and ready to be raised. For this reason I chose to set my Gin Pole so that the yoke is near the goose neck fitting. Note how close the blocks of the boom vang are in this picture. Before I inverted the line locking cam on the pulling block, I used to extend the boom with a wire tail piece that cam off my back stay that was connected to that triangular plate. By inverting the cam on the block, I was able to do away with the tail piece and be able to connect the block to a shackle on my bow stem chainplate. This gave me more space for my blocks. The is another reason why the Gin Pole needs to be set near the goose neck fitting. If you decide to use a boat winch to pull your mast up, you could mount the Gin Pole lower but the lower the Gin Pole on the mast, the longer it has to be.

DSC00434 Here's a pic of my old Gin Pole. Anyone can make one of these. It doesn't have to come apart and you don't need to use stainless steel hardware. The Gin pole provides the angle needed to raise your mast by using the Jib halyard and a boom vang or mainsheet blocks. You could also mount a small boat winch on the Gin pole and use that to pull your mast up. I have the yoke tied to the mast near the goose neck fitting and the end of my Gin Pole is about 1" to 2" from my forestay when the mast is up. If the Gin Pole is too short, the boom vang will have a tendency to pull the yoke out of the mast once the mast is up. If you set the Gin Pole too low on the mast, the Gin Pole will be too long and you'll have trouble reaching the end of the pole to snap your bridles in when the mast is laying horizontal and ready to be raised. For this reason I chose to set my Gin Pole so that the yoke is near the goose neck fitting. Note how close the blocks of the boom vang are in this picture. Before I inverted the line locking cam on the pulling block, I used to extend the boom with a wire tail piece that cam off my back stay that was connected to that triangular plate. By inverting the cam on the block, I was able to do away with the tail piece and be able to connect the block to a shackle on my bow stem chainplate. This gave me more space for my blocks. The is another reason why the Gin Pole needs to be set near the goose neck fitting. If you decide to use a boat winch to pull your mast up, you could mount the Gin Pole lower but the lower the Gin Pole on the mast, the longer it has to be.

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DSC01153 This pic shows the collar and the end of the Gin pole where the bridle connections are made. In case you're wondering, that triangular plate used to be attached to my backstay and I finally found a better use for it. I use the top hole to snap on my Jib halyard, and the middle shackle on the bottom is used for my boom vang attachment. The pulling block of the boom vang of course is connected to the aft hole of my bow stem chainplate. I unbolted the cam on the pulling block and inverted it so that I could snub the line off by pulling up on the line instead of pulling down on it.

DSC01153 This pic shows the collar and the end of the Gin pole where the bridle connections are made. In case you're wondering, that triangular plate used to be attached to my backstay and I finally found a better use for it. I use the top hole to snap on my Jib halyard, and the middle shackle on the bottom is used for my boom vang attachment. The pulling block of the boom vang of course is connected to the aft hole of my bow stem chainplate. I unbolted the cam on the pulling block and inverted it so that I could snub the line off by pulling up on the line instead of pulling down on it.

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DSC01151 The pipe flange is screwed to the bottom of the wooden yoke but I wanted to make it stronger by drilling a 1" hole into the bottom of the yoke and have the pipe go beyond the flange and into the wood about an inch of depth. It's a good idea to secure the yoke to your mast with either a rope seen in the picture, or a bungee cord.

DSC01151 The pipe flange is screwed to the bottom of the wooden yoke but I wanted to make it stronger by drilling a 1" hole into the bottom of the yoke and have the pipe go beyond the flange and into the wood about an inch of depth. It's a good idea to secure the yoke to your mast with either a rope seen in the picture, or a bungee cord.

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DSC01150 I used the same wooden mast yoke from my other Gin Pole. Also, there's a 1/4" hole in the collar and mating pipe for a fast pin. I really don't like using fast pins but for this application, it OK.

DSC01150 I used the same wooden mast yoke from my other Gin Pole. Also, there's a 1/4" hole in the collar and mating pipe for a fast pin. I really don't like using fast pins but for this application, it OK.

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DSC01156 I made my first Gin Pole out of white oak years ago an it served me well, but I wanted something just as strong that would be lighter and more compact so I asked my son Steve to weld me up this stainless steel Gin Pole. It's made of 1" stainless steel and it has a 1-1/8' x 6" collar welded to it which enables me to take it apart for easy stowing on board.

DSC01156 I made my first Gin Pole out of white oak years ago an it served me well, but I wanted something just as strong that would be lighter and more compact so I asked my son Steve to weld me up this stainless steel Gin Pole. It's made of 1" stainless steel and it has a 1-1/8' x 6" collar welded to it which enables me to take it apart for easy stowing on board.

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DSC01040 In this pic I'm using the boom vang that came with my boat which has double sheave fiddle blocks and a cam lock. You can see how far it's stretched out with the mast laying down. I needed to change the line on this vang to be able to spread these blocks out this far and I believe there is about 55' of braid line on this vang.

DSC01040 In this pic I'm using the boom vang that came with my boat which has double sheave fiddle blocks and a cam lock. You can see how far it's stretched out with the mast laying down. I needed to change the line on this vang to be able to spread these blocks out this far and I believe there is about 55' of braid line on this vang.

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June 2011. Yes-- these two twits are my kids.

June 2011. Yes-- these two twits are my kids.

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What it's supposed to look like.... My dad's idea was to have windows like an airplane, aluminum frames having the right shape and then just installed in the cabinsides. John Luhrs later thought it was best to use the same commercially-available portlights all other boatbuilders used; and the design went downhill from there. It was my idea to extend the settee berths under the bulkhead-- I had seen it on some more-obscure boat before. By doing this we got a 5-berth 25-footer that still has a decent cockpit. The wrap-around coaming was my dad's idea but we all (Bob Seidelmann, my brother, Warren Luhrs, my dad and I) contributed to it. It is good-looking, if awkward functionally, except for at the back where it finishes off the cockpit very well. The semi-flush deck (cabinsides tapering into nothing ahead of the mast) made my dad call this initial edition the 'blister-canopy' (as with the Supermarine Spitfire) or the 'bubble-top' (what they called the North American P-51C with Malcolm hood). Once a fighter pilot, always a fighter pilot.... The rig is tall and the boom short for an IOR-influenced boat of this period-- it's technically high-aspect. The narrow stern is an IOR feature as well, meant to get the smallest-possible girth measurements to 'defeat' the rule. Still the boat rates 19.4, not 18.0; and so it is not a quarter-tonner. The narrow stern actually makes the boat appear and behave very much like a double-ender, being responsible for the boat taking a following sea rather well and leaving the water close to the way it found it (if the outboard is not too heavy or kept down). Notice that the mainsheet in this drawing goes straight down to where Diana's bridgedeck-mounted traveler goes. ;) The parallelogram keel is a sign of the times (1972). In 1974 it would have had a vertical trailing edge. The semi-skeg in front of the rudder is as well; in 1976 my dad would eliminate all but a minor dimple there on the Raider and by 1978 he had said he should have done without it entirely. Other than this, the H33 looks like a direct descendant of the H25. Both boats are noted for early heeling, stability once heeled, good pointing ability and the tendency to be driven hard by the jib (throttle) and steadied by the main (shock absorber). I call this a 'hellandback' boat, because that's where it'll take you.

What it's supposed to look like.... My dad's idea was to have windows like an airplane, aluminum frames having the right shape and then just installed in the cabinsides. John Luhrs later thought it was best to use the same commercially-available portlights all other boatbuilders used; and the design went downhill from there. It was my idea to extend the settee berths under the bulkhead-- I had seen it on some more-obscure boat before. By doing this we got a 5-berth 25-footer that still has a decent cockpit. The wrap-around coaming was my dad's idea but we all (Bob Seidelmann, my brother, Warren Luhrs, my dad and I) contributed to it. It is good-looking, if awkward functionally, except for at the back where it finishes off the cockpit very well. The semi-flush deck (cabinsides tapering into nothing ahead of the mast) made my dad call this initial edition the 'blister-canopy' (as with the Supermarine Spitfire) or the 'bubble-top' (what they called the North American P-51C with Malcolm hood). Once a fighter pilot, always a fighter pilot.... The rig is tall and the boom short for an IOR-influenced boat of this period-- it's technically high-aspect. The narrow stern is an IOR feature as well, meant to get the smallest-possible girth measurements to 'defeat' the rule. Still the boat rates 19.4, not 18.0; and so it is not a quarter-tonner. The narrow stern actually makes the boat appear and behave very much like a double-ender, being responsible for the boat taking a following sea rather well and leaving the water close to the way it found it (if the outboard is not too heavy or kept down). Notice that the mainsheet in this drawing goes straight down to where Diana's bridgedeck-mounted traveler goes. ;) The parallelogram keel is a sign of the times (1972). In 1974 it would have had a vertical trailing edge. The semi-skeg in front of the rudder is as well; in 1976 my dad would eliminate all but a minor dimple there on the Raider and by 1978 he had said he should have done without it entirely. Other than this, the H33 looks like a direct descendant of the H25. Both boats are noted for early heeling, stability once heeled, good pointing ability and the tendency to be driven hard by the jib (throttle) and steadied by the main (shock absorber). I call this a 'hellandback' boat, because that's where it'll take you.

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28 October 2002. Lovely day spent with friends on the C&D Canal. At Elk River we stopped and I drove the kids over to a camp using the inflatable. First time driving an outboard skiff in about 35 years! This is Mary (L) and Rachel (R).

28 October 2002. Lovely day spent with friends on the C&D Canal. At Elk River we stopped and I drove the kids over to a camp using the inflatable. First time driving an outboard skiff in about 35 years! This is Mary (L) and Rachel (R).

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