Moving boat to new slip. Dockline Questions.
- Thread starter pateco
- Start date
I have a couple of those for throwing lines.
I've never seen ones made large enough to use as weights for this application, but if you could make them yourself those would be beautiful!
dj
They are not hard to make. Three or more coils one way, three or more coils perpendicular around the middle of the first group, three or more coils perpendicular to the second group but passed through the end loops above and below of the first group. Put your weight in the middle and work everything tight. The bigger the weight, the more coils.
It looks best with twisted three strand line.
- Will (Dragonfly)
Please consider the force of winds against the exposed sides of your H31. If the wind is 9 knots on the beam of your boat, above water line, that will be the [non gravity] average force to oppose with...
Line weights or midships Cleats.
Jim...
PS: Neighboring boats, if in berths, may deflect some wind.
Line weights or midships Cleats.
Jim...
PS: Neighboring boats, if in berths, may deflect some wind.
As far as midship cleat goes how bout one of these I have this on my boat works real well. Eddie
https://www.garhauerstore.com/miscellaneous/midship-cleats/midship-cleat-msc-2.html
https://www.garhauerstore.com/miscellaneous/midship-cleats/midship-cleat-msc-2.html
On my outer pilings I used 6 feet of chain, looped around the piling , shackled the ends together with 3-strand from chain to boat stern and spring lines. I moved my one aft spring line from port to starboard. When coming bow-in, I get the spring line first as it not only stops forward motion, but delivers the bow to the finger pier.
@Terry Cox posted a FAQ on adding Mid Ship Cleats to his H42. I am strongly considering using his method to add them to my H31.This is how his turned out.
Now on the H31, the vertical portion of the rail is on the inside instead of the outside as on Terry's H42, So I am not certain yet that I will need to make the cutout in the vertical part of the rail as he did. See pictures of my rail below. (ignore the Iguana
)
Below is the type of cleat I am considering for my midships cleats.. I already have the one in the picture below, and I just ordered another used one off of E-bay that should be here Monday.
I need to determine how far back along the boat to install them. Should it be at the widest part of the hull?
Now on the H31, the vertical portion of the rail is on the inside instead of the outside as on Terry's H42, So I am not certain yet that I will need to make the cutout in the vertical part of the rail as he did. See pictures of my rail below. (ignore the Iguana
) Below is the type of cleat I am considering for my midships cleats.. I already have the one in the picture below, and I just ordered another used one off of E-bay that should be here Monday.
I need to determine how far back along the boat to install them. Should it be at the widest part of the hull?
Last edited:
I do have jib tracks on the side, but they are in a bit from the rail, and that cleat would probably interfere with the way my Jib sheets run.
Nice! That would also remove any chaffing issues from the line around the pilings. Did you use shackle and eye splice with a thimble to attach the rope to the chain, or plain eye splice, or just knots?
Answer with a question...
How do you want your boat to pivot, Stern to Bow?
If you can locate the Center of Gravity of your boat, that rail spot would yield equal pivoting.
How to find the Center of Gravity?
Tie off to a open area bollard and a test spot on the rail. Watch the pivot in a brisk wind. Move to new spot on rail. Rinse and Repeat till you find the right spot on the Rail.
Jim...
Without the Dingy at the bow...
I would think bow to be slightly in favor, since that will probably be where boarding lines are and easier pull.
I did look at the position of my Midship cleats. They were slightly aft of the widest beam point. Discounting cargo ballast distributions, that would suggest a Bow favored pivot.
Also boarding at Low/High Tides well be easier, since the Aft lines[Browns] will be at their extremes.
I am starting to favor your Corral idea since it doesn't depend on weights or Midship cleat.
And...
It restricts your neighbor's bad tie up from encroaching on your berth too!
If you look back at your aerial view, at the encroachments, wow.
Jim...
If u use the Johnson mid ship cleats i referred to earlier there is no reason to cut out toe rail. They affix by lock nut thru the toe rail Also tried track mounted mid ship cleats before and not as useful as the toe rail mounted version because they are mounted too far inboard on the H31. Lots of chafe on the dock lines.
I have been convinced, and will most likely tie the dinghy between the end of the pier, and the dolphin. Trying to figure out how I can put a cover on the dinghy so it doesn't fill up while it is in the water? There are factory covers for the Water Tender 9.4 available, but I don't want to have to go for a swim every time I put the cover on?
I agree just aft of the widest beam for a little bow favored pivot. I will certainly use barrier lines against encroachment. I am still deciding on the corral concept.I would think bow to be slightly in favor, since that will probably be where boarding lines are and easier pull.
I did look at the position of my Midship cleats. They were slightly aft of the widest beam point. Discounting cargo ballast distributions, that would suggest a Bow favored pivot.
Also boarding at Low/High Tides well be easier, since the Aft lines[Browns] will be at their extremes.
I am starting to favor your Corral idea since it doesn't depend on weights or Midship cleat.
And...
It restricts your neighbor's bad tie up from encroaching on your berth too!
If you look back at your aerial view, at the encroachments, wow.
Jim...
I have heard good things about the Johnson cleats. However the used fixed cleats cost me less than $40 for the pair. Even used, the Johnsons are way more money. If I was going to buy new, I would probably buy these:
YS Alloy Toe Rail Spring Cleat YS-9185
I have "peeked" at my OEM midship cleat "backing plate" That plate is huge metal area to spread the load and built inside the Deck hull fiberglass.
Any cleat installed or retrofitted should, IMHO, be for temporary docking and not for significant unattended times.
I used "King Starboard" as a retrofitted backing plate for the stanchion nearest to the dock on berthing. The "dockside" helpers seem to want to grab it and hand move my 13 ton boat [sideways] by that stanchion.
That load spreading, backing plate, keeps my stanchion screws stable.
Think of your new cleat, like tying off to my stanchion to secure your boat.
Jim...
My factory bow cleats are also attached to the rail, using the same method I plan to use for the midships cleats. I will put backing plates behind them under the rail.I have "peeked" at my OEM midship cleat "backing plate" That plate is huge metal area to spread the load and built inside the Deck hull fiberglass.
Any cleat installed or retrofitted should, IMHO, be for temporary docking and not for significant unattended times.
I used "King Starboard" as a retrofitted backing plate for the stanchion nearest to the dock on berthing. The "dockside" helpers seem to want to grab it and hand move my 13 ton boat [sideways] by that stanchion.
That load spreading, backing plate, keeps my stanchion screws stable.
Think of your new cleat, like tying off to my stanchion to secure your boat.
Jim...
My dinghy, full of water floats, but would suggest a portable bilge pump with a small lawn mower type battery. The problem I have seen is they get full of leaves and debris.
True event...
Neighbor boater just put his dinghy along side his boat. He went up to the Marina Bar which overlooks our slips. Sipping his drink, he saw the dinghy drift under his AC and bilge pump overboard dump spot. He comes running down the Bar staircase, yelling at me to grab the dinghy line. I saw his dink about to fill up and sink from the AC discharge. I pulled it away quickly. Whew! He bought several rounds, after hand bailing his dink.
Jim...