I need to go west marine n buy some wire cause the 10 gauge is too short and won’t make it to the bilge pump, should I get 12, 14, or 16 gauge?
10 guage to 16 guage?
- Thread starter SailingFree44
- Start date
How far is it from the batteries to the pump? Use that and the Blue Seas table dlochner referenced to get the right gauge to minimize the voltage drop ( https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437 ).
10-20 feet, hard to say since it goes in nooks n crannies. That chart is Greek to me.
Circuit type, how do I know if it’s critical or not critical?
Current flow in amps, does that mean what the bilge pump Electric panel switch is putting out?
Circuit type, how do I know if it’s critical or not critical?
Current flow in amps, does that mean what the bilge pump Electric panel switch is putting out?
The first picture is the hot red wire. The black wire that it is spliced to is what is maybe 10 gauge, that was on the old piston bilge pump. I was thinking of removing that old black wire that is spliced to the red one and splicing the new long wire I need buy to run to the bilge pump directly to that red wire.
Second photo is where the original Bilge was. That long red wire you see is actually the ground wire, why is it red, who knows.
Last photo is where the new bilge pump will be. Partially mounted.
Second photo is where the original Bilge was. That long red wire you see is actually the ground wire, why is it red, who knows.
Last photo is where the new bilge pump will be. Partially mounted.
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That old black wire spliced to a red wire seems like bad news. Joining red to black invites confusion and accidental short circuits down the road. It also looks like the black might have a chafe mark on it, so discarding it would be good.
A bilge pump is considered critical. A pump’s capacity will be significantly decreased by voltage drop in the circuit. If you mean 10-20 feet one way I’d call it 30 feet round trip. If we assume the manufacturer used 16 gauge close to the pump because the pump draws 10 amps, then looking at the chart tells us a 10 amp critical circuit for 30 feet should be 10 AWG.
A bilge pump is considered critical. A pump’s capacity will be significantly decreased by voltage drop in the circuit. If you mean 10-20 feet one way I’d call it 30 feet round trip. If we assume the manufacturer used 16 gauge close to the pump because the pump draws 10 amps, then looking at the chart tells us a 10 amp critical circuit for 30 feet should be 10 AWG.
I see, however, that new bilge pump draws 5 amps @ 13.6 V DC. does that change the calculation, Should I still buy 10 AWG?
Also, I still don’t really know what the answer was. Was the see through single butt connector, sealing it with marine sealant, and a shrink wrap on top of it all the most effective way to splice 10 and 16 AWG wires?
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At 5 amps you’d be ok with 12 AWG. The pump might draw more when the voltage is lowe, so 10 would be better, but if you were forced to use 12 it probably wouldn’t be the end of the world.
The quick disconnects dlochner recommended would work. That way you don’t need to worry about finding the right size step down. Just find the quick disconnects for 12 and 16 gauge and make sure they snap together.
The quick disconnects dlochner recommended would work. That way you don’t need to worry about finding the right size step down. Just find the quick disconnects for 12 and 16 gauge and make sure they snap together.
Not to overwhelm you @SailingFree44, but I see that the current 2022 wiring diagram for the Marine Raider 800 Gph Automatic Bilge Pump shows a wiring diagram as such:
This drawing is not the best as it does no allow for a manual test with a three way switch.
The old wiring diagram you show in your post #6:
....................... does not show a float switch. I also don't see a float switch in your photos of post #24 unless it's located elsewhere. Maybe a float switch is just "understood" but it won't work without one.
Does your new installation include a float switch ?
This drawing is not the best as it does no allow for a manual test with a three way switch.
The old wiring diagram you show in your post #6:
....................... does not show a float switch. I also don't see a float switch in your photos of post #24 unless it's located elsewhere. Maybe a float switch is just "understood" but it won't work without one.
Does your new installation include a float switch ?
All good, no float switch, it is an automatic. Has a little ball in there.
For the quick disconnects, anything specific, marine grade or waterproof? Is that what one looks like? Just crimp it down I’m assuming.
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That's the way. I would suggest applying GLUED heat shrink tubing as well just over the crimp section. Also wipe a tiny dot of dieletric grease (such as Superlube) over the contact faces so they avoid corrosion over the years.
PS to #31 - also make sure all electrical connections are securely held in place as high as possible in the bilge. I knew you knew that 
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.To do the job correctly, get a racheting crimper with dies for insulated terminals. The cheap hardware store crimpers sort of work, however if you are going to do a lot of wiring, the better crimpers will do a better job.
The best terminals to use are adhesive lined heat sealed terminals like these from Defender.com. Lately I have been using them. The quality is good and they are much less expensive than the Anchor terminals from West Marine.
www.defender.com
The best terminals to use are adhesive lined heat sealed terminals like these from Defender.com. Lately I have been using them. The quality is good and they are much less expensive than the Anchor terminals from West Marine.
BSP Crimp 'n Seal Quick Disconnects
These single-hump, fully insulated, BSP Crimp 'n Seal Quick Disconnects are part of BSP's expanding line of patented and innovative heat shrink connectors. The male connector has a flat tab and the female connector is designed for a flat tab. These are de
Awesome, thank you!
the list :
10 gauge wire
10 gauge wire disconnect
16 gauge wire disconnect
Dielectric grease
Glued shrink wrap
Sound good?
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,155
yes. Shrink wrap is called “heat shrink”. Various sizes. Get that which fits your wire and a bit larger. When heated ( ideally using a heat gun) it will shrink about 25-33% snuggly around the wires and connector. It does nothing to hold the wires in place. That is the job of the crimp. It covers the connector/wire and with the glue tries to limit water intrusion.
I use wing nuts to join 2 stranded wires. Before using them, I turn them upside down and fill with lanocoat and use hair dryer to melt the lanocoat and fill the container all the way down, then let it solidify then put it on the twisted wires. This will keep the moisture out.
Wire nuts aren’t designed for stranded wire. They can cut the strands and impair the connection.
OOOOOOH ! ! ! ! ! That's about as popular as a turd in a punch bowl around here
.Just sayin' mind you.