Restoration of 1981 C-22 swing keel #10580

[Leeward Rail]

Just a comment about the teak trim. I'm with Gene. That said, low maintenance is a good thing.
If I wanted to go without teak, due to conditions where the boat was sitting, I'll consider using plastic teak, not white starboard
The local home centers stocks great looking fake teak decking that would likely work fine for everything but the hatch, and it's reasonably priced.
Fake teak is available specifically for marine use of course.

Looking good Luke !

 

[CloudDiver]

I've been chipping away the past few weeks, sneaking in a few hours here and there after work and on weekend, all in between a ridiculous quantity of reading, cause studies, papers, and exams for grad school...
Here is the cockpit with the primer 99% complete. Just one more coat on the cockpit sole and a few touch ups here and there, beyond that I only have the pop-top, sliding hatch, and fwd hatch left to sand and prime. Getting there, slowly. Now begins that wonderful "90% of the job is prep-work"; which is sanding (mostly by hand) with 220 grit to get out any brush strokes or other imperfection before the gloss white top-coat. Will it ever be done?! LOL

 

[piedpiperIII]

Luke, I have been following from the start, Awesome job wish I had the patients you have. Keep it up it will get done and better than new..

 

[sturmkatze]

LOL... Sorry Gene, you're gonna hate it even more over the next few weeks! I'm honestly thinking about getting rid of ALL of my teak and using the milled 'white stuff' from CD (haven't pulled the trigger yet). My boat is going to be sitting on a mooring ball, soaking up the sun for the next few years, I really think I'd be better off losing all the brightwork. Funny thing, I already have much of it stripped and epoxy coated, just about ready for varnish. I might keep it, I might sell it on fleaBay. Good argument for keeping it, if I ever sell the boat to someone else who hates the plastic stuff then they can change it back.

can I have your old teak

 

[CloudDiver]

can I have your old teak

I have yet to fully decide if I will go with the plastic or go back to the teak. The thought occurred to me to keep the teak just in case it would add to the value of the boat... a future buyer may hate the plastic and want the teak back. Then again, it would be a real pain to uninstall all of the plastic and butyl tape clean up to reinstall the teak. I like the idea of zero sun damage and future varnishing, I'm sure there are future buyers who could appreciate that too.
Almost all of my teak has been sanded and epoxy coated, but still much work left to finish epoxy coats, sand, and apply numerous coats of varnish... If I go through all that work I will want to sell the teak to recover some costs, but I think it might be worth it.

 

[mrudman850]

Now begins that wonderful "90% of the job is prep-work"

Hudson's Addendum to Murphy's Law: the first 90% of the project takes 90% of the time, the last 10% of the project also takes 90% of the time!

 

[CloudDiver]

Started on painting the Brightsides white topcoat. Originally I had figured I would start with the rub-rails/toe rails and paint from the outside to the cockpit, finishing with the cockpit sole. For some reason I just decided to flip that and go the other way, I started with the cockpit sole first. I figure I will get that painted so it can cure and then I will cover it with paper and tape so I can walk on it. I don't have to worry too much about flaws here, that surface will get a different kind of stick-on deck later (in case you think I'm crazy for painting gloss white). I also wanted to paint the lip and recessed drains around the cockpit hatches because they are the biggest pain in butt to paint. Pretty soon I'll roll the boat back inside to finish painting the cockpit (no bugs, and better not to paint in direct sunlight).
On a technical note, I'm using the bright sides without brushing thinner at the moment and getting good results.

 

[CloudDiver]

I wandered into a local chandlery on Saturday and scored this killer deal. I found the furling drum sitting by itself with no other parts, an old fashioned price tag on the bottom said $100. I verified with the girl at the counter (who was super hot BTW), that it was the furling drum for the Harken 436 Small Boat Furler. She said I could have it for $80! I have to buy the upper swivel separately which costs around $200, but considering that the kit usually costs just above $500 I will have saved myself a little money if I get away with having paid $280 all together for mine.

 

[Gene Neill]

What, no pics of the girl at the counter?

I call BS on the entire post.

 

[Leeward Rail]

I'm with Gene. Why no pics of the girl ?

 

[CloudDiver]

What, no pics of the girl at the counter?

I call BS on the entire post.

LOL, well I have a rule about asking girls out who are at work... I just don't do it. I also won't do anything else creepy like snap photos, but I will see her again I'm sure and maybe invite her sailing (which technically isn't asking her out). If anyone has been to the Downwind Marine Sail Hardware shop on Canon St in San Diego they can back me up on how hot she is. As far as the other B.S., I can snap a photo of my receipt!

 

[CloudDiver]

Rainy and cold in SoCal today... Days like this I'm very happy my C-22 is tucked into my shop so I can still work on it... Coffee and TV in the shop, what else do you need?

 

[Gene Neill]

Hookers and coke?

 

[CloudDiver]

Hookers and coke?

LOL... well, I still work for the gub'ment so I'll have to keep my vices limited to beer and the occasional smoke (of tobacco). The sun did come out around lunch today so I took down the pop top and got it primed. This marks a milestone of finally getting the last bit of non-skid sanded off with 60 grit on the 6 inch orbital. Most of the boat will have Kiwi Grip rolled on over grey tinted Interlux primer. I have special plans for the cockpit sole, seats, and coaming.

 

[CloudDiver]

I've been slacking on posts... I'm working in small bursts in between work, grad school, and social events. Did a weekend camping trip (Campland on Mission Bay) and Best Coast Beer Festival two weeks ago, then class last weekend. I've been top coating the cockpit and other parts a section at a time. Right now I have half of the cockpit, the cabin top around the pop-top area, the pop-top itself, and the area around the front hatch painted. I have some runs and sags so I have to re-think my approach and brushing thinner ratio. I'm fairly certain there will a ton more sanding because I will have to completely flatten the first coat and sand the mistakes, then have to do a complete 2nd coat, hopefully with a better technique to avoid mistakes. the problem with painting a section at a time is that anywhere Interlux Brightsides overlaps it is painfully obvious. I'd give my left nut for someone to just spray this thing out for me.

Here is some pics I posted on another thread, trying to figure out if my inboard genoa tracks will work this way, or if I need to add another 18 inches to the front side... still on the fence about putting the outboard tracks on at all. Some people have said to put em back on, they are useful on various points of sail where the inboard tracks are pretty much for close sheeting the Jib... I dunno, point is I need to get this part done to finish painting. the outboard tracks can be reinstalled at any point in the future. The holes are epoxy filled and I marked the second hole back from the front with a light cut of a forstner bit. And yes, that pretty thing in the second pic is over the top, but every time I look at it I get horny.
(I hate to point out my mistakes, but in this pic there are visible sags in the paint)

 

[CaptDon01]

Luke,

Mike posted a photo on the C-22 Facebook site of the refinished keel from his boat. UNBELIEVABLE!

Don

 

[CloudDiver]

Luke,

Mike posted a photo on the C-22 Facebook site of the refinished keel from his boat. UNBELIEVABLE!

Don

Which Facebook page? I checked the new one you created and didn't see it, the National Association page?

 

[CloudDiver]

Still working in brief spits and sputters in between work and grad school... Just trying to keep the grind going so that maybe I'll soon see the light at the end of the tunnel (which is having the paint done!).

So I've distracted myself a little in between painting sections of the cockpit, which is almost done at this point;
I finally ordered the DC Panel I wanted... I found a reliable online seller that ships quickly, but I was disappointed I did not get a 10% discount (I read the code incorrectly), but the seller will give me 10 % off when I order the wire spools and such that will come later. I also finally ordered a stainless steel piano hinge to replace the cheap nickel plated one I had before which was already showing rust. So with the correct hinge installed I finally put in the stainless rivets and made the cut out for the panel;

 

[CloudDiver]

The blank space to the left of the cut off switch will have the cushion back against it, so there is nothing going there. To the right of the DC panel I have a 12V charge port and a USB charge port to go there, but I'll install them later when I get the Volt Meter I want. Having the charge ports on the far right of the panel puts them in close proximity to laying devices on the port settee table or up on the coaming shelf. You can see them laying on the shelf her with the panel open along with the Neg Bus Bar. For my anchor & steaming light I will either remove one breaker and get a matching on/center off/on switch to mount in the panel, or I will put a separate switch on the panel. When I sort out the rest of the warning scheme I'll worry about it then.

 

[CloudDiver]

I also finally ordered the upper swivel for my Harken Small Boat Furler. If you remember I had found the furling drum laying all by its lonesome at a local chandlery and scored it for $80. I paid about $120 including shipping to order the swivel from Offshore Spars so all together I'm in $200 for it when it goes for $500 as a new set everywhere else online;