Restoration of 1981 C-22 swing keel #10580

[CloudDiver]

I needed a small victory since the sanding and prep in the cockpit continues... endlessly; so I sanded an painted out the the little stash compartments in the cockpit. I used the Interlux BilgeKote enamel for this because priming, sanding, and then rolling and tipping Brightsides would just be ridiculous. To tell you the truth, I really like the enamel and it brushes out fairly well without a primer on sanded and de-waxed gelcoat. I honestly think it would make a good top-coat for the budget minded. At $50 a gallon it is still cheaper than buying 4 quarts of Rustoleum enamel (I think). Anyway, the trim ring is just set in there for the pic, will be glued in with 4200UV after the cockpit is painted out.

 

[CloudDiver]

This is what I'm slaving away at, pic below; Where all the spider cracks were in the cockpit I ground them out with an engraving bit on the dremel tool and filled with epoxy filler. This is where my Milwaukee oscillating tool is friggin priceless! If I can get the general sanding knocked out during the week I MIGHT finish the primer coats this weekend...

 

[Flamingo1]

I needed a small victory since the sanding and prep in the cockpit continues... endlessly; so I sanded an painted out the the little stash compartments in the cockpit. I used the Interlux BilgeKote enamel for this because priming, sanding, and then rolling and tipping Brightsides would just be ridiculous. To tell you the truth, I really like the enamel and it brushes out fairly well without a primer on sanded and dewed gelcoat. I honestly think it would make a good top-coat for the budget minded. At $50 a gallon it is still cheaper than buying 4 quarts of Rustoleum enamel (I think). Anyway, the trim ring is just set in there for the pic, will be glued in with 4200UV after the cockpit is painted out.

Love this. This is on the "To-Do" list. I like how clean this looks.

Has anyone replaced their wood hatch doors with the white hatch components on Catalina Direct? I inherited my hatch doors in painfully poor condition and I do not believe they can be saved. While I very much like the teak, the star board does not require as much maintenance and, in my opinion, makes for a very "clean" look like these cockpit compartment rings.

 

[Gene Neill]

Honestly, and I hate saying it lest I insult anyone, but I absolutely hate that white stuff. Personally, I'd find some used hatch boards and refinish them.

Strictly personal preference though. Your boat, your way!

 

[CloudDiver]

Honestly, and I hate saying it lest I insult anyone, but I absolutely hate that white stuff. Personally, I'd find some used hatch boards and refinish them.

Strictly personal preference though. Your boat, your way!

LOL... Sorry Gene, you're gonna hate it even more over the next few weeks! I'm honestly thinking about getting rid of ALL of my teak and using the milled 'white stuff' from CD (haven't pulled the trigger yet). My boat is going to be sitting on a mooring ball, soaking up the sun for the next few years, I really think I'd be better off losing all the brightwork. Funny thing, I already have much of it stripped and epoxy coated, just about ready for varnish. I might keep it, I might sell it on fleaBay. Good argument for keeping it, if I ever sell the boat to someone else who hates the plastic stuff then they can change it back.

 

[Flamingo1]

LOL... Sorry Gene, you're gonna hate it even more over the next few weeks! I'm honestly thinking about getting rid of ALL of my teak and using the milled 'white stuff' from CD (haven't pulled the trigger yet). My boat is going to be sitting on a mooring ball, soaking up the sun for the next few years, I really think I'd be better off losing all the brightwork. Funny thing, I already have much of it stripped and epoxy coated, just about ready for varnish. I might keep it, I might sell it on fleaBay. Good argument for keeping it, if I ever sell the boat to someone else who hates the plastic stuff then they can change it back.

Likewise, mine sits on a trailer in 115 degree temperatures almost all summer long. It has taken its toll on the teak. I think the "white stuff" may weather those conditions better than the teak.

 

[HillbillyWanderer]

Did you reinforce any under the cockpit seats below the cracks?

 

[Gene Neill]

LOL... Sorry Gene, you're gonna hate it even more over the next few weeks! I'm honestly thinking about getting rid of ALL of my teak and using the milled 'white stuff' from CD (haven't pulled the trigger yet). My boat is going to be sitting on a mooring ball, soaking up the sun for the next few years, I really think I'd be better off losing all the brightwork. Funny thing, I already have much of it stripped and epoxy coated, just about ready for varnish. I might keep it, I might sell it on fleaBay. Good argument for keeping it, if I ever sell the boat to someone else who hates the plastic stuff then they can change it back.

Your boat, your way! I apologize for even voicing that opinion, I hope no one took offense, especially you. If my boat lived on a mooring ball, I might even consider the bleach-bottle look myself.

Mmmm, wait a sec. Nah ... not even then! LOL

In fact, what I want to do eventually is to replace even my white plastic transom trim with teak. I've never seen it done, but I think it would look super sweet. I loves me teak, and can't get enough of it.

 

[CloudDiver]

Your boat, your way! I apologize for even voicing that opinion, I hope no one took offense, especially you. If my boat lived on a mooring ball, I might even consider the bleach-bottle look myself.

Mmmm, wait a sec. Nah ... not even then! LOL

In fact, what I want to do eventually is to replace even my white plastic transom trim with teak. I've never seen it done, but I think it would look super sweet. I loves me teak, and can't get enough of it.

No offense taken at all... I'm still on the fence about the plastic but it seems plausible. I put a lot of work into the clean up, sanding, and epoxy coats of my teak so far, kind of a shame not to use it. Then again, everything I'm doing is kind of centered around reducing maintenance in the long run. While sitting on a mooring ball in the sun all summer I'm not going to be real excited about putting varnish and supplies into my dinghy, or the other option of de-rigging and hauling her out... I have a lot of painting to do and time to think about it.

 

[CloudDiver]

Did you reinforce any under the cockpit seats below the cracks?

No I didn't, I wish I had thought of that while the boat was inverted. A few layers of 6 oz tape with epoxy would have done the trick. I hope it doesn't crack again in the same spots!

 

[HillbillyWanderer]

No I didn't, I wish I had thought of that while the boat was inverted. A few layers of 6 oz tape with epoxy would have done the trick. I hope it doesn't crack again in the same spots!

I have the same problem on mine and was thinking I might need to reinforce it at some point before I fixed the topside.
Doing a awesome job on the refit!

 

[CloudDiver]

Solution to the new Genoa Cars... The 40mm blocks will only take up to 5/16 sheet. My sheet is 3/8, as recommended by many as being easier on the hands. So it was either get a new headsail sheet in 5/16 or put a bigger block on the genoa cars. Ronstan doesn't make their 55mm Orbit single blocks with the same dyneema soft loop as the 40's, so I found a pair of Harken 57mm T2 single blocks that came a pair of dyneema soft shackles for $37.50 each on eBay. I'm not sure if the soft shackles were supposed to come with the blocks or the seller threw them in for free... The T2 blocks are supposed to come with line or loop, and I had ordered the loop... they sent me the packs with line so I guess they realized the mistake and threw in the soft shackles. That worked out better for me!
The soft shackles were a little longer, so the block didn't want to stand up straight with the rubber collar in its recessed slot on the car. I might get some springs later, but for now I put in a stainless washer that lifts the rubber collar up out of the slot... works for now. You can see a noticeable difference between the two block sizes.

 

[$tingy Sailor]

Those look sweet. You're gonna luv soft shackles!

 

[CloudDiver]

As I progress in painting the primer coat in the cockpit this question circles back on the cockpit hatches, 'what hinge to use?'
I had planned on putting in Stainless Piano hinges. The first problem is that the hinge stock I have on hand isn't actually stainless; no big deal, it was only $8 and good for trial fitting. Anyway, my concerns are this. First, I have to epoxy fill the little recesses that were molded into the lids for the standard hinges to make a flat surface. Second, when in the closed position the hinge leaves are practically flat against one another, so the only fastener I can use are stainless pop rivets. Even with rivets I doubt it will work out, the leaves will still not be allowed to close enough to one another. Also, the space is tight that I don't think I will be able to get my rivet gun in square and tight against the surface when installing. Below is pic of what it would look like (using the non-stainless hinge stock to check);

 

[CloudDiver]

Today I am going to sand the paint off the inside of the cockpit seat/hatch lids, then add some strips of 8.5 oz cloth and resin just to re-enforce the flimsy outer edges. Later the insides will be painted with gloss white Brightsides. I don't have to make up my mind today, but I will before I paint. I can reinstall the standard stainless hinges, try the piano hinge, or try some Marlon hinges...

 

[$tingy Sailor]

My 0.2? Don't overthink it. Just put the stock hinges back on. It's not an heirloom hope chest : ) They worked for 35 years. Save your time, money, and creativity for other places. BTW, I'm putting gas struts in mine now, so there'll be a blog post on that in the near future.

 

[CloudDiver]

My 0.2? Don't overthink it. Just put the stock hinges back on. It's not an heirloom hope chest : ) They worked for 35 years. Save your time, money, and creativity for other places. BTW, I'm putting gas struts in mine now, so there'll be a blog post on that in the near future.

You bastard... lol!

 

[CloudDiver]

This update is a week late, below is what I did last weekend. The extra day (Presidents Day) was a huge help, although Monday I used mostly for clean up.
So the primer on the decks and caring top, including rub rails, is now complete with the exception of the inside of the cockpit. I had to buy another quart of primer (Thank you SBO for quick shipping). When I started painting almost a year ago I had purchased a gallon and that should have been plenty. It really would have been more than enough but I lost quite a bit of paint to evaporation and skinning in the can. My advice is always buy extra quart cans at the big box store and divide up your gallon right away... down the road you won't have a dried up skin when you open a fresh quart.

 

[CloudDiver]

 

[CloudDiver]

I'm in class this weekend so I won't get much done... I just need to complete the priming in the cockpit and then I can begin the wonderful task of sanding with 220 by hand. This step is critical, it takes brush strokes or errant contaminants out of the primer while giving me the chance to check for nicks or pin holes that require filler before top-coating.