Restoration of 1981 C-22 swing keel #10580
- Thread starter CloudDiver
- Start date
Last coat (3rd) of bottom paint went on yesterday afternoon and I'm so relieved to close the chapter on the "Bottom Job"!
I'll keep the hull inverted for at least 2 more weeks (probably), I want to give the bottom paint plenty of time to cure before I set it back upright on the boat stand pads. In the mean time I will do some repairs on the interior that are so much easier to get to with the hull inverted. The is a serious series or full through cracks in the port side cockpit combing. It was obviously the most commonly used entry point and someone with a heavy foot did a number in it, and then it was poorly repaired. there is also a nasty break/crack in the lip of the port side cockpit hatch opening. Same deal, much easier to epoxy/glass tape while upside down. With those repaired I'll paint out all the over-head surfaces that are easy to get to right now with Interlux Bilge-Kote (not the gel-coat in the cabin, that is staying the way it is, just cleaned and polished!)
I'll keep the hull inverted for at least 2 more weeks (probably), I want to give the bottom paint plenty of time to cure before I set it back upright on the boat stand pads. In the mean time I will do some repairs on the interior that are so much easier to get to with the hull inverted. The is a serious series or full through cracks in the port side cockpit combing. It was obviously the most commonly used entry point and someone with a heavy foot did a number in it, and then it was poorly repaired. there is also a nasty break/crack in the lip of the port side cockpit hatch opening. Same deal, much easier to epoxy/glass tape while upside down. With those repaired I'll paint out all the over-head surfaces that are easy to get to right now with Interlux Bilge-Kote (not the gel-coat in the cabin, that is staying the way it is, just cleaned and polished!)
Some Stainless Repairs
I actually did these a few days ago. I love any chance I get to fire up the TIG welder. The two repairs are on one of the Tiller Straps and one of the pieces of the Motor Bracket. In each case the PO had cut off a bolt or nut and the grinder or hacksaw gouged into the steel. Simple matter of filling the area with small puddles of 308L filler rod and then grind/sand smooth.
The first and second pic is the custom welding cart I built just over year ago. It holds my MIG & TIG welders along with my Plasma Cutter, two gas bottles, and has a tool box drawer for consumables.
I actually did these a few days ago. I love any chance I get to fire up the TIG welder. The two repairs are on one of the Tiller Straps and one of the pieces of the Motor Bracket. In each case the PO had cut off a bolt or nut and the grinder or hacksaw gouged into the steel. Simple matter of filling the area with small puddles of 308L filler rod and then grind/sand smooth.
The first and second pic is the custom welding cart I built just over year ago. It holds my MIG & TIG welders along with my Plasma Cutter, two gas bottles, and has a tool box drawer for consumables.
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The next pic is the gouges in the steel with the weld puddles. Later you will see them ground flat and polished smooth.
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Now that the bottom job is done I am relieved to get back to some small repair jobs that don't require 80 steps over several days... Here is where I fixed the port cockpit combing I had mentioned before, someone with a heavy foot had cracked it. It was repaired (poorly) and covered from the top with grip tape. Easy job with the hull inverted; I just sanded the area well - my oscilating tool with the triangle sanding pad was perfect for this job. I have plenty of that 8.9 oz cloth left from the cut-offs when I did the bottom job so I cut 3 rectangle pieces 10 x 24 inches and layered the box section. The damaged area was only maybe 2 inches, but I decided to re-enforce the entire box since it seems that combing is the most popular first step into the cockpit and was generally too flexible to begin with. The starboard side is not damaged, but I plan to do the same improvement to that side for entry and egress when starboard side to the dock.
It was a quick job, less than hour... it tool longer to sand than it did to lay the glass and resin in. You can see hints of the cracks to the center in the first pic;
It was a quick job, less than hour... it tool longer to sand than it did to lay the glass and resin in. You can see hints of the cracks to the center in the first pic;
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First coat... actually, 1.5 but more on that later. The boot-stripe and sheer-stripe are still primer.
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I put on the second coat yesterday, no need to post another pic because it really looks the same. Only problem is I'm not happy with the results at all. For some reason the last coat did not tip-out as well as the previous coat. I'm not 100 percent sure what I will do just yet. I have plenty of paint to do a 3rd coat if needed, but I don't want to repeat the same mistake and end up with streaks again.
I went over everything with the Interlux tech rep... I think I will paint in the gloss white in the boot stripe and cove stripe then let it cure for a few weeks. In that time I'll get the hull flipped back over and on the trailer, and get the transom painted. When the paint has had plenty of time to cure I will cut and buff with fine polishing compound and glaze. If that doesn't do the trick I will wet sand with 400 grit and put on another coat, probably spray this time.
I went over everything with the Interlux tech rep... I think I will paint in the gloss white in the boot stripe and cove stripe then let it cure for a few weeks. In that time I'll get the hull flipped back over and on the trailer, and get the transom painted. When the paint has had plenty of time to cure I will cut and buff with fine polishing compound and glaze. If that doesn't do the trick I will wet sand with 400 grit and put on another coat, probably spray this time.
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Looks dead sexy!! I had to save that pic to my desktop so I could invert it and get a better look. 
It does look good from 10 ft away... and maybe I should calm down and leave it at that.
I've done quite a bit of reading across the ol' inter webs today about cutting and polishing compounds, specifically on Interlux Brightsides. The majority of the comments say 'the manufacturer says don't do it'... while there are some that say 'You gotta let it cure so its hard, and the 1000 grit wet followed by rubbing and polishing compound. It works, I do it regularly'. When I talked to Interlux tech support the rep didn't say not to do it. I also have plenty of paint for a 3rd coat (technically it would be a 4th).
Regardless, with any problem if I can take some time to step away and rethink it while regaining some energy I often find that it works out better that way. The bottom line is that the bottom job is complete and I can flip the hull back over. The bulk of the work is done and revisit the level of finish I'd like to achieve on the color at a later time.
I've done quite a bit of reading across the ol' inter webs today about cutting and polishing compounds, specifically on Interlux Brightsides. The majority of the comments say 'the manufacturer says don't do it'... while there are some that say 'You gotta let it cure so its hard, and the 1000 grit wet followed by rubbing and polishing compound. It works, I do it regularly'. When I talked to Interlux tech support the rep didn't say not to do it. I also have plenty of paint for a 3rd coat (technically it would be a 4th).
Regardless, with any problem if I can take some time to step away and rethink it while regaining some energy I often find that it works out better that way. The bottom line is that the bottom job is complete and I can flip the hull back over. The bulk of the work is done and revisit the level of finish I'd like to achieve on the color at a later time.
Looks dead sexy!! I had to save that pic to my desktop so I could invert it and get a better look.
why is it that they say that it cant be done??
reason I ask: awlgrip "cant be wetsanded and buffed" either. I had a boat that had awlgrip on it and I proceeded to do just that. the result had some shine to it, not near what a new paint job would, and it dulled very quickly. later research indicated that with awlgrip, as it hardens it forms a super hard layer on top which is what creates the durability that we all know awlgrip for. sanding removes this.
reason I ask: awlgrip "cant be wetsanded and buffed" either. I had a boat that had awlgrip on it and I proceeded to do just that. the result had some shine to it, not near what a new paint job would, and it dulled very quickly. later research indicated that with awlgrip, as it hardens it forms a super hard layer on top which is what creates the durability that we all know awlgrip for. sanding removes this.
Thats exactly what several people had to say about Brightsides, that the gloss rises to the surface and if you sand it your only choice is a complete re-coat. They also pointed out that is what also makes it poor for doing small touch ups or repairs.
Then others call B.S. on that and say you can cut and polish it with the right compounds... At this point I don't know what to believe. I'm going to just flip it back over and continue the work. If needs be I can do a 3rd coat.
For the record, I did my boot stripe and cove stripe first coat of Brightsides this afternoon; I didn't use a roller, just straight brushed it and tipped out with long gradual strokes. I used a middle of the road polyester brush from Ace Hardware and they look amazing!
Then others call B.S. on that and say you can cut and polish it with the right compounds... At this point I don't know what to believe. I'm going to just flip it back over and continue the work. If needs be I can do a 3rd coat.
For the record, I did my boot stripe and cove stripe first coat of Brightsides this afternoon; I didn't use a roller, just straight brushed it and tipped out with long gradual strokes. I used a middle of the road polyester brush from Ace Hardware and they look amazing!
CloudDiver,
Are you using fine-line masking tape on your stripes? I'm interested in how well the edges turn out after several coats and days of drying time, whether they peel up when you remove the tape. I'll be doing my stripes soon too.
Are you using fine-line masking tape on your stripes? I'm interested in how well the edges turn out after several coats and days of drying time, whether they peel up when you remove the tape. I'll be doing my stripes soon too.
I've used two types of tape. The pink tape that you might see in some pics is Owens Corning painters tape, I got a deal on it @ 2.50 per roll which is amazing for any kind of low adhesive painters tape. When using it I got very little if any edge bleed being careful to firmly press down the edge. For the most part, however, I only used it on the various coats of primers where any 'oops' ended up getting sanded anyway.
I had one roll of expensive 3M 'lime green' painters tape that came from a paint supply store, left over from previous paint jobs on my race bike body work. That's the only roll I had that was exactly .75" vice .91". I used this to cover the sheer stripe primer with one piece when painting the steel grey. Still got some edge tiny edge bleed.
For the final color coats, the steel grey and the white for the stripes, I have been using Scotch Blue with Edge Lock, almost $6 a roll from Home Depot. You can feel a big difference in the tape material and the adhesive over regular blue painters tape. So far I haven't gotten any edge bleed with this at all. You just have to be careful with it and immediately remove it after painting. I had taped off everything one afternoon before the last color coat, then decided to wait until the next day to paint because it was too close to dark and I left the tape in place. If left on too long it will leave an adhesive residue and it also pulled up a few small flakes of the Prime Kote on the boot stripe.
I also think Frog Tape is good, but haven't used it yet because Home Depot was out of stock in the .91" inch size. This too is also expensive, but I think the Scotch Blue w/ Edge Lock is doing just as well and cheaper @ $5.87 vs almost $8.50 for .94" Frog Tape.
I had one roll of expensive 3M 'lime green' painters tape that came from a paint supply store, left over from previous paint jobs on my race bike body work. That's the only roll I had that was exactly .75" vice .91". I used this to cover the sheer stripe primer with one piece when painting the steel grey. Still got some edge tiny edge bleed.
For the final color coats, the steel grey and the white for the stripes, I have been using Scotch Blue with Edge Lock, almost $6 a roll from Home Depot. You can feel a big difference in the tape material and the adhesive over regular blue painters tape. So far I haven't gotten any edge bleed with this at all. You just have to be careful with it and immediately remove it after painting. I had taped off everything one afternoon before the last color coat, then decided to wait until the next day to paint because it was too close to dark and I left the tape in place. If left on too long it will leave an adhesive residue and it also pulled up a few small flakes of the Prime Kote on the boot stripe.
I also think Frog Tape is good, but haven't used it yet because Home Depot was out of stock in the .91" inch size. This too is also expensive, but I think the Scotch Blue w/ Edge Lock is doing just as well and cheaper @ $5.87 vs almost $8.50 for .94" Frog Tape.
Weekend progress
I usually get a lot done on weekends, but at this point I am feeling a bit stalled and only making progress in small steps. Its ok, I'll get over it. I'm just beating myself up because I should have the hull flipped back over by now.
For the most part I have completed the jobs I wanted to do while the hull is still upside down, just have some small paint jobs to do in the interior. I didn't take many pictures, but I'll snap a few just before I flip the hull and post them. The below posts capture a bit of the work I have accomplished.
I usually get a lot done on weekends, but at this point I am feeling a bit stalled and only making progress in small steps. Its ok, I'll get over it. I'm just beating myself up because I should have the hull flipped back over by now.
For the most part I have completed the jobs I wanted to do while the hull is still upside down, just have some small paint jobs to do in the interior. I didn't take many pictures, but I'll snap a few just before I flip the hull and post them. The below posts capture a bit of the work I have accomplished.
I have lemon scented bleach and SoftScrub with Bleach, but I also found the below pictured spray on sale and decided to give it a try, ZEP professional Mold & Mildew Stain Cleaner
This stuff is strong and VERY effective. Safety warning, wearing a respirator while cleaning interior spaces is a no-brainer on this one, but you also MUST wear eye protection that seals on your face like goggles. This stuff will quickly get to your eyes if you spray interior spaces of your boat. I didn't have any kind of chemical specific safety goggles so I grabbed a pair of ESS tactical Shooting Goggles that the Army gave me years ago in Baghdad, lol. They were tinted but kept that sting out of my face.
The paint on the overhead of my aft storage areas is tan with the slings of black paint through them. I'm not sure if that was supposed to be the color or just years of dirt build up and age, but this ZEP stuff turned the paint white! Very effective at cleaning up the mold and I was sure to spray any areas where spores could be hiding.
This stuff is strong and VERY effective. Safety warning, wearing a respirator while cleaning interior spaces is a no-brainer on this one, but you also MUST wear eye protection that seals on your face like goggles. This stuff will quickly get to your eyes if you spray interior spaces of your boat. I didn't have any kind of chemical specific safety goggles so I grabbed a pair of ESS tactical Shooting Goggles that the Army gave me years ago in Baghdad, lol. They were tinted but kept that sting out of my face.
The paint on the overhead of my aft storage areas is tan with the slings of black paint through them. I'm not sure if that was supposed to be the color or just years of dirt build up and age, but this ZEP stuff turned the paint white! Very effective at cleaning up the mold and I was sure to spray any areas where spores could be hiding.
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Cockpit seating bulkhead re-enforcement
I had mentioned before that my manual bilge pump was mounted in the bulkhead of the port cockpit seat. That fiberglass is pretty thin and the action of pumping the handle makes it flex pretty bad. Probably not the source of the spider cracks I have since I doubt anyone has had to vigorously pump water out of this boat, but the potential is there.
I decided to re-enforce this area by laminating in a section of plywood, soaking it with epoxy and putting a single layer of glass cloth over it to seal it up.
The first pic shows how I braced the outside with an extendable ratchet brace used to secure cargo in my truck bed. I knew I would be putting considerable clamping force on the bulkhead from the inside and I did not want the epoxy to cure and leave a permanent outward bulge.
The second pic shows a 3/16" plywood sheet braced against the bulkhead. I used my reversible welding clamps and some blocks to apply expanding clamping force when I set it in place with thickened epoxy. I always brush on a coat of un-thickened epoxy to raw plywood to soak in before I batter on the thickened epoxy. After this section set up I put a single layer of the left-over 8.9 oz cloth to seal it in. This area, including the raw plywood underside of the cockpit sole, has now been painted with white Interlux Bilge Kote.
I had mentioned before that my manual bilge pump was mounted in the bulkhead of the port cockpit seat. That fiberglass is pretty thin and the action of pumping the handle makes it flex pretty bad. Probably not the source of the spider cracks I have since I doubt anyone has had to vigorously pump water out of this boat, but the potential is there.
I decided to re-enforce this area by laminating in a section of plywood, soaking it with epoxy and putting a single layer of glass cloth over it to seal it up.
The first pic shows how I braced the outside with an extendable ratchet brace used to secure cargo in my truck bed. I knew I would be putting considerable clamping force on the bulkhead from the inside and I did not want the epoxy to cure and leave a permanent outward bulge.
The second pic shows a 3/16" plywood sheet braced against the bulkhead. I used my reversible welding clamps and some blocks to apply expanding clamping force when I set it in place with thickened epoxy. I always brush on a coat of un-thickened epoxy to raw plywood to soak in before I batter on the thickened epoxy. After this section set up I put a single layer of the left-over 8.9 oz cloth to seal it in. This area, including the raw plywood underside of the cockpit sole, has now been painted with white Interlux Bilge Kote.
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I've been quiet the last few days... drama at work, but this a sailboat forum so we won't go there.
Anyway, lots of things happening and I've regained a little momentum.
I cleared the long bay of the shop getting ready to bring the hull back inside. I was really enjoying the feeling of walking the full length of 37 feet without running into anything or tripping. Then I fouled it by hoisting my hull back through the door;
Anyway, lots of things happening and I've regained a little momentum.
I cleared the long bay of the shop getting ready to bring the hull back inside. I was really enjoying the feeling of walking the full length of 37 feet without running into anything or tripping. Then I fouled it by hoisting my hull back through the door;
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Off the cradle and back onto the stands. I'll be ready to flip her back over as soon as finish painting out a few things on the inside.
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The cradle is easy to install or uninstall under the hull using the stands. The lumber is put together with screws but the three main parts are assembled with bolts. Not too hard to store or carry around in a pick-up truck.
I offered it up to Capt Don, but if he doesn't need it then it'll probably go on Craigslist.
I offered it up to Capt Don, but if he doesn't need it then it'll probably go on Craigslist.
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